Fogger V4!!
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AMD, I would just make up a thread size and chase it on a lathe. The internal threads are going to be fun, but it shouldn't be a problem for you. You'll probably have to make a little tool bit, but that can be done with an old tap by grinding away everything but one cutting edge. You're still going to have to cut an o'ring groove on the chimney, and some sort of receiver bore in the top piece, aren't you? That part could be tricky to get right.
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What's really interesting about that KF photo is that the gunk is on the coil, not the rayon wick.
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Thanks for your advice.
Threading with a Lathe would have been an ideal but. And it is a BIG BUT: My Lathe-o-saurus does not have motorized feed of any kind. Of course, the 3-jaw chuck is motorized LOL. Otherwise, it is all manual. I doubt that I'm capable of advancing my cutter, by hand, steady enough to be able to make good threads. I doubt that anybody is. Until I get a new lathe, I'm stock with using Taps and Dies for threading. The only thing I can do on that thing is to make an O-Ring groove.
Have a very Merry Christmas to you and yours!
Mike.
It indicates that I wicked it properly when I made that build for him. Doesn't it?
Merry Christmas!
Mike.
Merry Christmas, Mike!
It does indicate proper indicate proper technique, and density, for rayon wick but also shows the advantages of using ray for a wick.
It does indicate proper indicate proper technique, and density, for rayon wick but also shows the advantages of using ray for a wick.
I just received an email from Yi Loong about a V6.0 to be released... however going to their site I see noting posted yet...
Surprised they decided on a 2mm airhole. A 2.5mm hole would be much better
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My first Fogger 5.0..If you can see in the picture the negative post is definitely not in line with the positive post ,the negative post is about in the 8 o'clock position if anybody has gotten one like this or could tell me how to properly make a build with the negative post being off center I would appreciate it thank you!
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You may want to ask for help in the Fogger V5 thread. But give this a try. Remove the screw from the bottom of the Fogger. Look inside and you should see a slot in the piece that's still inside. Use a flat screwdriver to loosen, not remove just loosen. The block should now be movable. Line things up, tighten everything up and you should be fixed.
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Ok ,I will give it a shot first thing in the morning I'm glad I didn't invest too much in this.
I miss the days when my fogger was the best atomizer I owned, hands-down.
I've switched exclusively to dripping. I did throw dual 28ga coils, around 0.6 ohms, on it for a mech. It worked well, but it was definitely a step down for vapor, sadly. The vapor was too warm for me at first, but oddly better a few days later.
I need to give it another shot. I definitely don't miss building on it!
I've switched exclusively to dripping. I did throw dual 28ga coils, around 0.6 ohms, on it for a mech. It worked well, but it was definitely a step down for vapor, sadly. The vapor was too warm for me at first, but oddly better a few days later.
I need to give it another shot. I definitely don't miss building on it!
I used 30 gauge when I needed to be above 1 ohm. Here's a link on SteamEngine to basically the build I used; Coil wrapping | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators
2mm ID, 10 wraps 30 ga. Should land around 1.2 ohms and be good to go on that iStick, good luck! It can take some work to get it going, report back in after you get it built
Well I finally got around to attempting a build on my Fogger. I used 28 ga., 12 wraps on a 7/64" drill bit (dual coil), which ended up at 1.2 ohms. Seems to be working ok so far, not much vapor but otherwise ok. So far it's not much different from my Nautilus except it takes a few seconds for the coil to heat up. Any thoughts on what I could do to make it heat up faster or produce more vapor? 30 ga. wire maybe?
If you're up for it, you might try to up the wattage to see if that speeds it up enough. I'd expect it'll need to be pretty much maxed for a reasonable time.
Other than that, I would indeed try the 30ga. For more vapor, more air helps. If you're good with a drill/dremel, it's not too bad (I used a conical bit and increased the diameter by maybe 50% or so, it wasn't very methodical).
In my experience, too many wraps retain a lot of heat especially in a tank, which is something to think about. I experienced it with 30 ga, I believe. Going from 13 wraps to 10 kept it cooler.
I`m running a half ohm on my fogger 4.1 and the vapor is very good, I usually judge it by how far out the cloud will go before it dissipates and it throws it out there about 5-6 feet. I think its 6 wraps of 28 around 2mm. I took the AFC off and it does a great job. Yes, it was pretty warm at first, but now it seems that Iv gotten used to it, :?)
Wicking it was a chore, really had to cut down on the cotton so it would wick fast enough on a fresh bat, but I got there eventually.
Wicking it was a chore, really had to cut down on the cotton so it would wick fast enough on a fresh bat, but I got there eventually.
I did crank the wattage up to the max the IStick can put out, but it made the vapor too hot, I almost burnt my lips. I turned it down and have been slowly experimenting with turning it up a little at a time. Hopefully soon I will be able to get something else to run it on and be able to make a lower ohm build.
ktez71, I'm running a Fogger V4.1 on an iStick at 17.7 watts. The build is 1.3 ohms of 30 gauge Kanthal wrapped on a 14 gauge needle, wicked with rayon, and it puts out like a champ, lots of vapor and flavor with a warm, not hot, hit. Keep in mind the iStick displays power in AVG, average, rather than RMS, root mean square, like most all devices out there. To arrive at an approximation of RMS power add 10% to the displayed power on the iStick.
And actually, awsum, someone had a really good post on a more exact conversion to RMS.
To calculate the RMS wattage, take the displayed voltage, multiply by 5.5 (the max voltage), and divide by the resistance. It seems to agree very well with what Phil found on the oscilloscope. Certainly not necessary, but some might find it helpful.
e.g., with a 1.2 ohm coil and the istick set to 4 volts, the RMS wattage would be 4*5.5/1.2 ~ 18.3 watts. The istick would claim you're vaping at 4*4/1.2 ~ 13.3 watts.
To calculate the RMS wattage, take the displayed voltage, multiply by 5.5 (the max voltage), and divide by the resistance. It seems to agree very well with what Phil found on the oscilloscope. Certainly not necessary, but some might find it helpful.
e.g., with a 1.2 ohm coil and the istick set to 4 volts, the RMS wattage would be 4*5.5/1.2 ~ 18.3 watts. The istick would claim you're vaping at 4*4/1.2 ~ 13.3 watts.
I guess I need to get some 30 gauge Kanthal....awsum, how many wraps on each coil did you do?
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