I've got 30 gauge in tempered so I'll let you know how it works out. I'm use to working with smaller wire gauge coils and do a lot in 32 gauge for the cig-a-likes I use for hands free stuff.
Fogger V4!!
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I've got one with dual 32awg Nickel, but it's a real beotch to wick with Rayon, plus there's really not enough mass there to give me the vape I'm used to. I've got another with hybrid Nickel/Kanthal coils that's probably my favorite, but I don't like the temperature reading being off (I forget which is which, forget to change my temp setting, and end up defeating the purpose of TC) If Titanium works out like I'm hoping it will, I'll probably switch everything over to that, and just re-learn what temp I like.
Hooray! I replaced my old Chinese Lathe with and old American one. I've got Craftsman Commercial 101 made in USA in 1971. Oh my God! What a difference.
Right in time, one of my Kayfun V4 cheaper clones got stuck really bad. I took a 2" trailer hitch ball and made a Collet holder out of it in 22 mm size.
Right in time, one of my Kayfun V4 cheaper clones got stuck really bad. I took a 2" trailer hitch ball and made a Collet holder out of it in 22 mm size.
Absolutely it did
Now, that I have a KDK Quick Change Tool Post that holds 3/8 shank indexable carbide cutters and 1/2 parting blades.
What is the Parting tool would you recommend?
I don't like HSS blades, even Cobalt blades are no longer my favorites. And there are so many different options available...
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Absolutely it did
Now, that I have a KDK Quick Change Tool Post that holds 3/8 shank indexable carbide cutters and 1/2 parting blades.
What is the Parting tool would you recommend?
I don't like HSS blades, even Cobalt blades are no longer my favorites. And there are so many different options available...
Man, tuff question. We don't do a lot of Lathe work in our shop, so we don't have state-of-the-art tooling for our lathes. (if we did, I'd have CNC lathes and I'd be making all sorts of this stuff) The parting tools we have use carbide inserts, but they're probably 10 years old, and we have a draw full of inserts for them that hasn't had to be restocked in years, I'm not even sure what brand they are.
btw, I just cleaned and rebuilt my original Fogger V4.0 (4.2) with a nice set of .7ohm Kanthal coils....STILL one of my best tasting atomizers!
Speaking of which, I received my SX350J Yihi SXmini M-Class 60W with Temp. Control. And looks like I'm going to start using my Foggers again because the minimum Nickel coil resistance is 0.05Ω (0.065 recommended). That's pretty manageable in dual coil environment.
P.S: I made a second Collet type holder to hold with one and unscrew with the other. I used 5C 22mm collet from eBay. But it has 1.24" - 20 threaded end on it and I had to turn my own nut for it. That was fun.
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I just pulled out my v4 fogger to use on my vapor flask... I put a genuine dna20 in it (for now). But I think it looks great. Only black att I have (AFAIK)
Forgive me for asking, but if you went through all that trouble replacing the chip is Vapor Flask (believe me, I know. I did that.) Why didn't you install DNA40 chip in it?
Well... since you asked!
I bought the flask as being dead (the original owner fried the original chinese chip - whatever it was), I happen to have a couple of brand new chips, a DNA30 and DNA20... SO... I put the DNA30 in, which was brand new, 1 of 3 DNA30's purchased at the same time several months ago (maybe even a year?) I used 2 of those DNA30 chips in other mods NO PROBLEMS... SO when I installed the DNA30 - BRAND NEW KEEP IN MIND, the screen was messed up, flickering, dimming... so I had to take it apart AGAIN - and the only other chip I had handy was a new DNA20 - so I installed that and it worked, and that's how I ended up with a DNA20 flask I've got 4 chips that need to go back to Evolv, 2x DNA30 and 2x DNA20 - all with dead screens, broken screen cables, or flickering screens. I will at some point get a DNA40 for it, but honestly I have not decided Temp Control is for me? I've read about it, and it seems like it's more trouble than it could possibly be worth? I've heard the NI200 wire is extremely soft, easily breaks, you can't dry burn the coils, so you have to re-coil when the coil's get gunked up... I heard tempered nickel wire is better and only available from the UK, and some say titanium grade 1 wire (-100 degrees of your target temp for nickel)... so I dunno...
My vape range is 15 watts generally speaking (+/- obviously) but on my Wizard Apprentice Evolved 2 which is a DNA30, I rarely go above 20 watts....I'm generally a 1.0 to 1.5 ohm coil guy, 12-15 watts give or take.
The temp control "camp" is very clearly divided... you either love it or hate it. I've never used it, and generally speaking, don't get dry hits often since I don't vape at 30w and wicking doesn't keep up. but like I said, I dunno.
THEN add into the mix, I've read the DNA40 has glitching issues with the screens... almost seems like it the DNA40 was rushed to market and maybe the next generation of DNA will be better? Again, I dunno. (sorry for the long winded response)
Well... since you asked!
I've got 4 chips that need to go back to Evolv, 2x DNA30 and 2x DNA20 - all with dead screens, broken screen cables, or flickering screens. I will at some point get a DNA40 for it, but honestly I have not decided Temp Control is for me? I've read about it, and it seems like it's more trouble than it could possibly be worth? I've heard the NI200 wire is extremely soft, easily breaks, you can't dry burn the coils, so you have to re-coil when the coil's get gunked up... I heard tempered nickel wire is better and only available from the UK, and some say titanium grade 1 wire (-100 degrees of your target temp for nickel)... so I dunno...
My vape range is 15 watts generally speaking (+/- obviously) but on my Wizard Apprentice Evolved 2 which is a DNA30, I rarely go above 20 watts....I'm generally a 1.0 to 1.5 ohm coil guy, 12-15 watts give or take.
The temp control "camp" is very clearly divided... you either love it or hate it. I've never used it, and generally speaking, don't get dry hits often since I don't vape at 30w and wicking doesn't keep up. but like I said, I dunno.
THEN add into the mix, I've read the DNA40 has glitching issues with the screens... almost seems like it the DNA40 was rushed to market and maybe the next generation of DNA will be better? Again, I dunno. (sorry for the long winded response)
It seems like you did your homework well. But you only filtered the negative things and didn't mention the positive ones.
I use 26 gauge annealed Ni200 wire which is NOT soft by any means and I dry burn my nickel coils all the time before I re-wick them. The only negative about using 26 Gauge is the size of the coil. But I put 3mm ID 26 gauge 10 - 12 wraps coils in my Kayfuns, Taifuns, Subtanks, Lemos, Flash E-Vapor and Rose V2 with no problems. And now, with the purchase of Yihi SX350J that has much lower resistance limitations then Evolv, making my 26 gauge coils is a piece of cake.
I've read the yihi chip performs better than the dna40? Again I have never actually used anything temp controlled so don't know.
So overall do you like temp control? Does it improve your vape experience over standard kanthal? Or is it just safety, more of a mind set kind of thing that you know you won't dry hit, etc....
Point with your finger to it so we know which one you mean
Bleh, he changed the pic, its not in the new one anymore. I think the tank started with a H, its in this thread somewhere if I felt like searching.
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