Fogger V4!!

[Muggs]

The aqua looks interesting. I might have to check that out. It seems like a very similar design to the v4 minus glass and if the wick channels are larger then that's a plus. Still loving the v4 it's all I use minus the drippers.

Edit: So it looks like it's a stainless or acrylic tank conversions only on the aqua? Makes sense since the tank is a screw on system. Slight draw back.

So it looks to me like the next company to make an easy to build, dual coil capable with Phillips and thumb screw options, Fogger/Aqua style setup with large wick channels, decent airflow control, no leak stainless and glass tank options and a copper firing pin will be the final winner. Who is it going to be?

 

[Claviger]

For the record, the Fv4 can be chain vaped, been doing it for days since I rebuilt a .45 ohms and not a single dry hit...

You do get some ability to control juice flow. If you want to have some adjustment, assemble the top cap, chimney top piece and chimney bottom piece. Get some soft nose pliers and slightly torque the 3 pieces together. Now reassemble onto the base. If you did it right you can get about 1 full turn of adjustment on juice control before there is any wobble between the top/chimney/glass and the base. You get about 1.5 turns before any leaking.

As far as taste, in back to back testing @ similar resistance with the same juice using the same wicking material, my Fv4 tastes better than my kayfun. In my Fv4 I can clearly taste the strawberry flavor in my self brew strawberry shortcake, in my kayfun I just taste sweet graham cracker :/

 

[HughDaHand]

Once you learn how to setup the Fogger V4 so it wicks correctly it beats the Aqua in every way possible....that is saying a lot since I really love my Aqua. I use cotton wick... and I put half of the cotton into the channel and leave half above channel like the picture below.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7369/14086332143_2bd04dce10.jpg

I am starting to wonder if my Fogger came with smaller juice channels or something. If I put that much cotton into the channels it would be nothing but dry cotton flavored hits. I put it about that deep into the channel but can only put like half that diameter of cotton into the channel to get it feeding slightly better.

I just can't seem to get either of mine to wick properly. First hit is great, second starts to taste like a dry cotton wick and a third is almost torture if I don't let it sit for 5 mins or close the AFC and do a primer puff. I am not giving up on it yet since it is pretty much what I want in a tank if I can get this wicking figured out.

I also did try just putting the cotton on the deck around the juice channels. While it wicked great like that it also flooded and leaked out the air holes. This led to my current build of half the channel filled with cotton and some laying on the deck to collect the juice that hits the deck. This took forever to get right and is not something I want to keep doing every time I need a new wick, but is preforming great.

I wish I had a camera that could take a picture good enough to show my builds that are not wicking, but for the most part you wouldn't be able to tell them apart from the pics of working builds.

 

[Tbev]

I chain vape, really chain vape, trying to get a dry hit and I can't get it to miss a beat. I've got it @0.8ohm and the flavor is definitely better than my r91, draw way more open.

If your having problems, it's probably your wick, probably too much.. Wait for it... Cotton! Wicking 101

I recommend the m style wick as mentioned before in this thread.

Sent from my Transformer TF101 using Tapatalk

 

[EDO]

@HughDaHAnd
That is not a picture that I took of my setup but my setup is very similar. I believe the guy who took that picture actually bored out his channels. But my build is dual micro-coil (1.5mm) 30g kanthal at 0.8 ohms. I vape 50-50 juices and have absolutely no trouble with the wicking. Again most of my cotton is above the deck and some of it is goes into the channels. It is very easy to set up this way for me....I don't know why it was hard for you.

 

[TheKiwi]

Acccck. Just received my fogger and I'm blown away.

Construction wise, the metal is pretty thin throughout. But my threads were very very smooth.

0.6 ohms dual micro, 27 watts and it's very very very good. No dry hits when chain vaping either. Vapor production is extremely good; I'm not even remotely a cloud chaser, but even I'm getting a kick out of the vapor production right now.

Overall super super impressed. Was worried all these hype would amount to nth, but I cannot be more pleased. Air flow control is perfect for me too.




Burping out loud using Tapatalk

 

[VaPreis]

For the record, the Fv4 can be chain vaped, been doing it for days since I rebuilt a .45 ohms and not a single dry hit...

You do get some ability to control juice flow. If you want to have some adjustment, assemble the top cap, chimney top piece and chimney bottom piece. Get some soft nose pliers and slightly torque the 3 pieces together. Now reassemble onto the base. If you did it right you can get about 1 full turn of adjustment on juice control before there is any wobble between the top/chimney/glass and the base. You get about 1.5 turns before any leaking.

As far as taste, in back to back testing @ similar resistance with the same juice using the same wicking material, my Fv4 tastes better than my kayfun. In my Fv4 I can clearly taste the strawberry flavor in my self brew strawberry shortcake, in my kayfun I just taste sweet graham cracker :/

The definition of chain vaping probably lies with the individual user. Previous to my current build, I could not hit it one right after the other without getting a slightly burnt hit by the 3rd or 4th draw. And I am speaking of a rapid succession.....not the way most would normally vape, including myself, even when "chain vaping". This is just a personal gauge of mine as to how well it's wicking.

The only dry hit I ever got out of my Aqua was due to an empty tank.

Current build is better, and I haven't been able to get it to dry hit at all, although I'm only 80% satisfied with the flavor. Vapor production is amazing, but the flavor is lacking compared to my Taifun GT.......and maybe it always will be, an apples to oranges sort of thing.

Next build I will be trying no cotton in the channels at all, and instead just cover the channels with the ends of the wick.....I'll report back.

 

[old_geezer]

I just got my fogger v4 in. I'm fighting with it. My first RBA. I'm good at rebuilding EVOD coils with cotton, but it's not quite the same. First try was 32ga 6? wraps on a 3/64th drill bit. Came out at 2.9 ohms. I wasn't happy with how large it was. Going to try a 1/16th bit now which is what I use for EVOD coils. 5 wraps on them is 1.8 ohms, so I'll try 10 wraps each coil for dual coil. I'm using it on an SVD so I can't let the ohms get too low. Wish me luck.
- Joe

 

[EDO]

Current build is better, and I haven't been able to get it to dry hit at all, although I'm only 80% satisfied with the flavor. Vapor production is amazing, but the flavor is lacking compared to my Taifun GT.......and maybe it always will be, an apples to oranges sort of thing.

Even with air tube taken out of my Taifun GT and having drilled out its the deck to 2mm....it has a lot tighter draw than my Fogger V4 with AFC only 1/4 open. I find that once I adjust the draw of the Fogger v4 so it has the same draw as my Taifun (so the AFC is almost completely closed)....it tastes actually as good as the Taifun but the vaper production greatly suffers. Now that I am used to the open draw of the Fogger I can't use my Taifun anymore....draw is just too tight.

 

[HughDaHand]

For the record, the Fv4 can be chain vaped, been doing it for days since I rebuilt a .45 ohms and not a single dry hit...

You do get some ability to control juice flow. If you want to have some adjustment, assemble the top cap, chimney top piece and chimney bottom piece. Get some soft nose pliers and slightly torque the 3 pieces together. Now reassemble onto the base. If you did it right you can get about 1 full turn of adjustment on juice control before there is any wobble between the top/chimney/glass and the base. You get about 1.5 turns before any leaking.
/

Thanks for the tip. You just solved my wicking problems and got me a little extra air flow. I assembled the top cap to the chimney like you described, except I just hand tightened it. I also unscrewed my AFC until the hole was completely uncovered then added the bottom piece of the tank. I tightened everything together until I could no longer spin the glass. The same build and wick that was giving me dry hits after the 2nd or 3rd hit is now chain vaping like a champ. I also got a nice little bump in flavor.

 

[erickim55]

Hey guys, decided to share my dual chimney build on the Fogger v4. So far it works amazing! I used 28 gauge 10 wraps each with the diameter about the same size as the air hole. It comes out to about 0.8 ohms. The airflow feels very open and the vape is thick and flavorful.

 

[Claviger]

For those suffering from the "too much cotton to fit in the channel" syndrome. I had this on my first, rushed build when I got it. There is a relatively simple fix
J
Make your coil diameter smaller so you don't need as much cotton to fill it. I build on the blue screw driver that comes with like.... All clones Lol. Using 0.3mm kanthal and 8 wraps if I remember right should get you right at .7 ohms. For .45 ohms I suggest .4mm kanthal on the house screwdriver with 7 wraps ( my preffered build).

Also, in a lot of "pro" YouTube tutorials I see the instructor twist the folk outs of the cotton.... Don't do that what happens is since you have taken what was too much cotton and forced it to fit by twisting, when it gets wet it becomes too tight in the coil choking off flow in the hottest part.

I take a cotton ball and unwind it. Then use about 1/3 the width to wick with. Gently pat it into a wick shape. Twist the end only so you can feed it through the coil. Once started put some tension on it on BOTH ends but a little more on the twisted end so it feeds easily. If it moves/distorts your coil at all it is too much.

Once do e feeding lop off the twisted portion so you are left with only fluffy cotton to put in the channel.

If you do it this way, the pull it out once it is the correct amount of cotton and THEN twist it like you tubers so often do, you will realize just how over wicked most YouTube builds are.

Good luck!!

 

[Claviger]

Glad I could help Hugh!

 

[HughDaHand]

Glad I could help Hugh!

Its kind of crazy how leaving the chimney unscrewed maybe 1-2mm changes the vape of my v4 so much. Now it feels like I need a lower ohm build to go with all this extra wicking.

 

[DejayRezme]

Its kind of crazy how leaving the chimney unscrewed maybe 1-2mm changes the vape of my v4 so much. Now it feels like I need a lower ohm build to go with all this extra wicking.

I'm a bit scared to try that lol. So this basically increases wicking, yes?

Hey guys, decided to share my dual chimney build on the Fogger v4. So far it works amazing! I used 28 gauge 10 wraps each with the diameter about the same size as the air hole. It comes out to about 0.8 ohms. The airflow feels very open and the vape is thick and flavorful.

Thanks for sharing, I was thinking about doing this. Do chimney builds have distinct advantages? The vapor should be more compressed and "straight" and with less turbulence in the chamber.

I'd love to have a mandril that fits the air holes perfectly so I can mount them easier. My first chimney build on a kayfun didn't look so great.

 

[maf2k8]

I am new to Foggers and decided to pick up a v4. Its pretty nice did one build and is vaping about as good if not better then my KFL.

The only thing i really cannot stand about it ( at this point ) is how tiny and small the post screws are. Trying to trap 2 coils under those screw heads is a pain at times, Using 28g wire.

 

[HughDaHand]

I'm a bit scared to try that lol. So this basically increases wicking, yes?

yeah, it is wicking much better now, so much so that I am not thinking of a lower ohm build to vaporize some of that extra juice. I have the version with the threaded AFC so it also opened up the airflow a little since the hole is no longer half covered. The tank still feels solid and no leaking so far, I am about half a tank on this setup and it sat on its side while I slept last night. I am not sure how well this would work on the older version with the free spinning AFC. I have been keeping the AFC fully open which may or may not be helping to support the bottom part of the tank. I am sure it won't be long before it takes a drop test to see if the tank holds with fewer threads caught.

 

[timastyle]

I'm having a hell of a time trying to do another dual coil build. I built a couple of them with no problems. I felt like I wasn't getting the best production from my coils, so I took it apart a couple nights ago and started building. I used 28 gauge, 32 gauge, and 32 gauge twisted and I wasn't able to build proper set of coils and I ended up going through quite a few feet of each kanthal type.

The biggest problem I had with the 28 gauge was that I had to have too many wraps to get above an ohm (12+) and thus, the coils wouldn't heat up really on my Provari. The 32 gauge isn't thick enough on it's own to for the microcoils I build (i.e. coils get deformed when trying to press them together), and the twisted was similar to the 32 gauge.

Another problem I'm having is tightening up the coils on the screws. When I start tightening them, it starts to warp the coil builds. Should I be going clockwise or counterclockwise when wrapping the wire around the screw?

I'm thinking about getting some 30 gauge to see if that doesn't help solve my woes, but any suggestions/recommendations would be greatly appreciated.

For what it's worth, my last build was with twisted 32 and I didn't have the issues I had this time.

 

[KurrptSenate]

30 gauge for a provari sounds about right

you're going to want about a 2.4 gauge done twice to be able to a good level for a provari (1.2)

if you 32 gauge is getting deformed, try to do most of the work on your drill bit instead of the tweezers + torch trying to do the pinching for you.

 

[timastyle]

that's the thing...I wrap my coils around a drill bit and make sure to wrap them tightly on the first pass. I generally use tweezers when trying to fine tune things (i.e. get the glow to start from in to out). I'm wondering if the 32 gauge kanthal I got from my B&M isn't A1, because the 28 gauge I got off the bay seems a lot thicker a sturdier. Now I know the gauge is what makes it this way, but I wouldn't think it would make it a huge difference.