Wow 50 pages of posts later...
Broke the glass on the original so picked up the + version and a replacement glass a few days ago. Got the original, replacement glass and + from vapercompany. The threads on the + are not scratchy like the original. It really helps that the bottom ring is removable now to better expose the deck for building. Threaded airflow control ring is loose but works as well as the original and feels like the same airy draw. I might tighten that ring up a tad to really get the benefit from an improvement like that. As far as wicking I can't tell a difference but I never had problems with that on the original either keeping the coil close to the deck and wick as short as possible. Nor would I expect a difference unless the airflow control or wick channels had changed. The vacuum is created by you - the amount of draw on intake and the air inlet IE control ring. Given same draw, closing down the air inlet will increase vacuum whilst opening the air hole up lessons vacuum. IMHO size of deck etc are anecdotal for vacuum creation. Larger wick channels could improve wicking volume given same vacuum but they are the same. With that said I do like the increased distance between wick channels on the deck for my builds. It makes placing the wick in the channels easier and provides more room for coils. I do not wrap my coils tight together so they are touching, I wrap them loose so there is a gap between each coil. This provides area for vapor production between each coil not just the ends of a tightly wrapped coil, IE I get more vapor and better flavor. What makes more difference between builds in wicking is how far down the wick ends in the channels. Too short and it will flood and blowing to clear can blow the wicks out of the channel. So there is a happy medium as others have posted where the wick ends half way down the channels and that seems optimum. And while I have tried many builds based on silica I have enjoyed the vape experience from every one.
I can appreciate the reasoning for the copper center screw as copper is a better conductor but in reality I see no difference in resistance and the post and plate materials haven't changed so I wouldn't expect much. I do like that the screw is a flat top instead of a rounded pan head.
Current build in the original is 6 turns of 34 gauge Kanthal. Current build on the + is 7 turns of 30 gauge Kanthal. Per coil. With the + on an EVIC Supreme I can fire it from 10 to 30 watts but 12 is close to optimum for flavor and vapor production for my tastes.
I would still like to see spring loaded posts and a top fill port and a rubber plug vice screw. It appears there is room under the chimney chamber to do that as the deck connection plates and posts appear lower so I may make my own mod one of these days. A couple small washers and springs might do the trick if the screws are long enough.
If considering adding a Fogger to your inventory don't hesitate, get the + version of the V4, the improvements in the deck area for builds is worth it. And just like the original it producs great flavor and amounts of lung hit vapor.
Photos in album comparing original to +:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/members/350zmo-albums-fogger-v4-v4.html