Fogger V4!!

[dan h]

I broke the glass on my V2 so decided to give the V4 a try....

I read and watched all the coil and wick set up recommended and attempted to do the same but used a cotton yarn instead of just cotton ball. I didn't work probably due to the difference in density and physical property. So instead, I tried to set it up like I would my Fogger V2 and it works great!

1) I used a slightly bigger drill bit to wrap my coils (probably one size bigger) and wrapped it 6 times.
2) Then I passed 4 strands of 3 mm cotton yarn through my coils. It's snug but not choking tight.
3) Instead of trying to fit one strand per channel, I just left the channels alone. I trimmed my cotton yarn short enough where it fits nice and snug around the chimney ring with each of strands from the 2 coils making a full circle coverage (the length coincided roughly with the length you would cut it to fit in the channel)
4) The first time tried with the chimney screwed on tight, I was getting some dry hits between puffs. So I tried what I used to do with the V2... Instead of screwing the chimney tight, I used it to control the juice flow. I unscrewed the chimney 2 full circles. Now my wicks are getting the proper amount of juice, no dry hits, and no leaks.

It's a bit tricky screwing back the top cap with your chimney not fully tightened. What worked for me was pressing down the drip tip and holding the chimney down while screwing the cap.

Hope this info helps other who want to experiment a different set up for the Fogger V4.

 

[lsutiger]

I was not happy with the performance of dual coil setup. So I set it up with a single and out preforms my kayfun setups now.

Now maybe I will go back to duals when I get my dna30 mod

I am on about page 27 of this whole thread and found your post. How did you set it up with a single coil? Did you plug up one of the air holes (those are airholes on the side of the block correct?)? Do you have a pic you could demonstrate?
I am about to pull the trigger on this and just want to make sure it will work well with my MVP2. Dual coils on one of those would be a waste of energy.

Thanks!

 

[Tbev]

One guy plugged up a hole w jb weld, I don't recommend it, however you can shove cotton in there and plug it, couple guys have successfully completed that mission however, I would just use smaller wire and run duals.

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[jhelliwell]

3) Instead of trying to fit one strand per channel, I just left the channels alone. I trimmed my cotton yarn short enough where it fits nice and snug around the chimney ring with each of strands from the 2 coils making a full circle coverage (the length coincided roughly with the length you would cut it to fit in the channel)

Yeah, I've also found this works better independently. I was putting my wicks down the channels and it was dry hit city. Instead I used the above method and it's far far better

 

[BNEAT]

Yeah, I'm really liking the sound of that method....now where's my syringe, I've gotta try it!

 

[DejayRezme]

Yeah, I've also found this works better independently. I was putting my wicks down the channels and it was dry hit city. Instead I used the above method and it's far far better

I'm still rather new to rebuilding and so far only had success with putting 1mm ekowool in the juice channels. So if you leave the juice channels open, you would put the wick NEAR the juice channels, but not on top of them to "block them", right?
Also with this kind of setup, does the wicking work at all if the level of your eliquid drops below the build deck? Meaning does the liquid get "sucked up" the wick channels? In my previous builds I would always just put like 1ml in the tank (I like to change often) and could vape it until the tank is actually dry.

Another question, I only take about 2 second puffs. Any longer and the vapor becomes warmer and changes taste. I don't know if that taste is just like warm vapor is supposed to taste, or if it is because my wicking setup isn't good enough to supply juice to the coil and it's the "beginning of a dry hit". I get plenty of vapor in 2 seconds and I like it, but I'm wondering how people can take 10 second puffs? Or is it just that I don't like the taste of warm vapor? There is a distinct note in there that isn't burned but that really tastes "funky" or weird to me.

 

[jhelliwell]

I'm still rather new to rebuilding and so far only had success with putting 1mm ekowool in the juice channels. So if you leave the juice channels open, you would put the wick NEAR the juice channels, but not on top of them to "block them", right?

Well almost. My wick covers the juice channel "inlet", which is the point where the juice channel goes under where the chimney screws down. I believe if you don't do that the thing will flood like a trooper, which I found out the hard way. My wick however is not jammed down the juice channel, cause when I do that I get cotton dry hits, which are the most foul thing on this Earth.

Also with this kind of setup, does the wicking work at all if the level of your eliquid drops below the build deck?

Well, I've not got that far down the tankful of juice yet, but when you take a draw, you are creating negative pressure inside the chamber. The vacuum sucks juice up the juice channels. Gravitiy has nothing to do with it really. You should be able to vape her dry.

Another question, I only take about 2 second puffs. Any longer and the vapor becomes warmer and changes taste.

You might put this down to the increased change in rate of eliquid vaporisation at higher temperatures as opposed to the static value of how well your wick is wicking. At higher temperatures you are getting a drier vape. I've not tried it yet, but a couple of posts back it was suggested to try unscrewing the chamber a couple of turns as a form of juice flow control. It would certainly help wicking and I;m going to try it, because it might reduce the admittedly unfavourable flavour change with a fresh batt.

 

[Tbev]

... Or just use less cotton.....

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[jhelliwell]

I dunno. I have fully played around with how much cotton I'm using. There seems to be no margin for error in the Fogger. Too much cotton and you get dry hits, too less and you get hotspots and burnt juice tastes. The only thing that seems to work is to not roll the cotton, leave it fluffy and have such a quantity of it that it slips through the coils with only a very slight resistance. Maybe I should try yarn.

The Kayfun is just so forgiving. Get it wrong with the Fogger and it punishes you. But at least I have build for it that works, and it really is a nice vape.

 

[Tbev]

Post a pic and we'll get you straightened out.

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[Tbev]

Or look back at some on here, how big is your coil diameter? I recommend using smaller coils, diameter, if your having trouble, BC that will force you to use less cotton.
If you haven't had juice leak out your afc your haven't used too little cotton.

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[jhelliwell]

I don't know if you were asking me or the previous poster. I'm using 1.4mm coils, and yes, I've had half a tank of eliquid dump out of the afc before I figured out how best to wick this thing. I can laugh about it now, but I was cursing at the time LOL

 

[Tbev]

Yah I've been there with the v2, it's a huge pos compared to the v4. Now that was a finiky atty, when I saw the deck setup on this, it's as close to a kayfun as you can get a dual coil setup, I knew it was going to be killer.
Post some pics.

 

[roflwaffles]

Hey guys, I'm loving my SS Fogger v4 and I'm thinking of picking up a black one for my Black Hawk. Since the interior is coated black, does that make it dangerous at all? Also any cool black drip tip recommendations would be appreciated.

 

[sinnataggen]

On mine the interior had signs of heat treatment, so i dont think its coated black.

 

[dwcraig1]

Kind of similar to Fogger v4, I ordered one from FT...$30.94 Really big juice channels, 6.5ml, vulnerable plastic insulator.

D-Eagle

 

[TheKiwi]

Kind of similar to Fogger v4, I ordered one from FT...$30.94 Really big juice channels, 6.5ml, vulnerable plastic insulator.

D-Eagle

Gee. WHAT material is the deck even?! Hahahaha there's no way that's stainless steel. And the position of the insulator is, well as you put it, vulnerable.

I do however really like the AFC and larger juice channels. If we could have those 2 on a fogger v4, it's a dead winner right there.


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[dwcraig1]

Gee. WHAT material is the deck even?! Hahahaha there's no way that's stainless steel. And the position of the insulator is, well as you put it, vulnerable.

I do however really like the AFC and larger juice channels. If we could have those 2 on a fogger v4, it's a dead winner right there.


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The deck along with post/ screws are ss, the tank sleeve(inside) is plastic. Care will be required during a dry burn but under normal use the plastic insulator should make it out alive....barring auto firing. I'll post about it when it comes. All that grey is ss, think "the Russian"

 

[EDO]

D_eagle seems to be very well designed.....the juice channels are big and the AFC seems really nice and you don't need a screwdriver to fill it. It seems like you can even access to the deck without having to drain all the liquid from the tank. The only design flaw is that plastic insulator.

 

[BobC]

Kind of similar to Fogger v4, I ordered one from FT...$30.94 Really big juice channels, 6.5ml, vulnerable plastic insulator.

D-Eagle

It's interesting looking DW, are those 3 tiny holes in the piece of plastic on the base the air holes?