What size did you drill the holes in the posts? Any pics? this could be the fix for my biggest "dissatisfaction" for this tank lol.
Fogger V4!!
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What size did you drill the holes in the posts? Any pics? this could be the fix for my biggest "dissatisfaction" for this tank lol.
I'll try to get some pics when I have to rewick. I have numbered drill sets that are TIN coated (titanium nitride), but you really need something like carbine drills for drilling stainless steel, it's hard stuff, not like drill mild steel. But I went into it knowing I'd most likely ruin a few bits and may even screw up the fogger, it was a risk I'm glad I took because it's so much easier to coil now. First I took a machinist file, just a very small file and filed a flat on one side of each post to make it easier to start the drill, I tried to center punch the posts but it just curled the tip of my Snap-On punches. I starting with a drill bit the size I wanted the hole to be, about 1/16 but because the bit would flex it was hard to get started so I started with bit almost the same size of the posts. Once I had a divot/pocket started I went back to a couple smaller bits until they dulled and I broke one, ended up the final pass with the 1/16 size bit. I did this with a hand drill and the fogger base in a small vise with brass jaws and I chucked the bit as far back in the jaws as I could but that's not the way to grip a drill bit, you should never chuck on the flutes. But as I said, I went into knowing I'd ruin some bits, slow speed, stop frequently and a drop of cutting oil helped a lot. When I was done there were tiny burrs left in the threads of the posts, with dental picks I removed most of those then I slowly worked one of the screws back and forth very gently until I was able to screw them in far enough to bottom on wire.
The negative post with the delrin insulator was difficult because to don't have much of the round post to work with, I had to get the hole at the very bottom of the post where it meets the square shoulder, I almost screwed that up because I now only have about two turns of the screw before it's back out. I have seen those negative posts selling for $7 so I may end up having to get another if the screw ends up too loose over time from use, need to find which vendor I saw them on.
Unless your handy with tools and have an assortment I wouldn't recommend it, I took the risk and it came out "usable". It surely isn't the right way to do it and it's not pretty but I'm happy with the end results. It would be great if we could find a member who is a machinist that would do these for us, I'd gladly pay a reasonable price to have someone do the next one for me.
Don't look at me, I haven't even drilled the post on my own Foggers (although I did think about it). Most of them have only seen one build, so the risk/reward didn't seem worth it to me. Besides, like you said, the possitive post wouldn't have enough threads left to be very durable.
If I come up with a viable solution, we may revisit this PITA issue
If I come up with a viable solution, we may revisit this PITA issue
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Thanks for posting this.You confirmed what i thought all along,that my first one,the 4.0 is a clone.Although mine does have a 2 piece chimney,not the 1 piece like mentioned,but it did come with the glass plus a steel tank section.I didn't think anything of it at first,until i got my 4.1 and noticed how different the boxes were,the 4.1 came in a really nice box,where as the 4.0 came in a plain black box that just said rba haha.I dont really mind too much,because like you said,it works just fine,but bugs me though is it was listed and sold as a 100% genuine product.
Well there is another way and I should have thought if it sooner.
Cut a slot into the posts with a thin dremel cutoff wheel.I did say the negative post didn't I, twice..... sigh. I did mean the positive, my head was where the sun don't shine, again.
The main problem I see with the clone vs the authentic is that the bigger chimney comes at the expense of tank capacity. Also, an authentic Fogger v4 is really not that expensive. Might as well spend a bit more to get the real thing.
With the one's I have, I don't notice a big difference between my authentic and clone, I use my clone one at work, I fill it up before work and vape a 8 hour shift on it and still have juice left when I get home. I have not measured how much I get in each, so can't say it holds the same amount, but it is not noticeable.
Also right now, you can get clones for half the price, so it is quite a saving if want multiple foggers, I just ordered 2 black foggers for cheaper than I get 1 authentic, and as I don't see any really negative to the clone (apart from AFC ring not threaded) I will take the cheaper, especially as you get the steel section too.
For those of you that want more airflow then you can get with the ring on heres an easy fix. Take a small round file or a small round Dermal bit, make two round notches in the ring so they uncover each air hole at the same time, when the ring is backed all the way off. Easy way to make sure you have them 180 deg apart is to scribe or mark the ring at each air hole before you take the ring off, remember to back it all the way off first. When done you'll still have the same control as before, just turn the ring past the notches at any turn.
That's a better idea than mine, which was grinding off the smooth portion on one side of the knurled center. Next re-fill, I'm going to give that a shot!
I'm, again, not saying a word...
Come on, we're all big boys around here, let er rip. Your not going to hurt my feelings any.
That's what I was planning on at first, but how to do that without butchering the ring or my finger's in the process.
I'm, again, not saying a word...
I'm sure he's pulled out the transportable machine shop he keeps in the back of his truck and bored the holes out to a half inch in diameter or something equally crazy.Come on, we're all big boys around here, let er rip. Your not going to hurt my feelings any.
Love his mad machining skills. Wish I had the tools and ability to mod things like that. The extent of my abilities is to use my Dremel tool tool to polish Nemesis and Stingray switches.
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I've seen some of his pics and I agree, nice! I wish I had a mill and lathe too. I took a couple years of machine trade after school, my Dad was a tool and die maker but my love was cars and I ended up twisting wrenches for a living. Now I love to tinker in my own home shop, got about everything other then a lift, mill and lathe, I get by with what I have.
I'm picturing a lathe, powered by a Cummins diesel with dual six inch stacks for exhaust and a Jake Brake.
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