That's because the one on the left was gone and I made a new one. But the one on the right still has some life in it and I didn't replace it. Or I was lazy.
Fogger V4!!
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That's because the one on the left was gone and I made a new one. But the one on the right still has some life in it and I didn't replace it. Or I was lazy.
How do I take the Positive Post off the base, it is stuck?
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Just like BNEAT said: "You take a flat head screw driver and unscrew it" There is no other way.
You mean unscrew the 510 copper screw? I did that, but it is still on? Do I have to push it off through where the 510 screw was in the center?
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1. Unscrew Copper screw.
2. Remove Silicone O-Ring
3. This is where you put your Flat Head Screw Driver.
Turn it counterclockwise while holding your positive post block.
I would've been if I've replaced both of them, but I only had one on hand and didn't want to lathe the other at that time.
Did you receive the package yet?
I also included a small 10 Ml bottle of my DIY juice at 6 Mg NIC 70% VG.
I'd like your opinion on it.
Nope! I'm guessing Monday or Tuesday
Still can't thank you enough for doing me the favor.
Funny, cos I also just started on DIY (a month in). Now THAT has been a struggle compared to coil building. Shakes head.
Then you make a new insulator:
1. Using an old rusty lathe cut a piece of delrin but drill it first.
2. You will have this disk.
3. Drill a side hole.
4. Assemble Positive Post with new insulator.
5. Cut access delrine off.
6. Assemble your base.
As you can see, I like my insulators a little beefier than the original ones.
American/Russian ingenuity, gotta love it!
1. Unscrew Copper screw.
2. Remove Silicone O-Ring
3. This is where you put your Flat Head Screw Driver.
Turn it counterclockwise while holding your positive post block.
Wowww, this is what I needed to know. I never would have guessed it, the screw behind the screw. Thank you thank you!! Now I understand! Is this usual for many RBA's, not just the fogger, to remove posts? To have this screw under the 510 holding everything in place?
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Dude, I was reading thru all those posts thinking to myself " somebody tell him it's threaded for God's sake!"
Glad you got it done buddy..
Glad you got it done buddy..
The screw inside screw design shows up in mechanical mods and atomizers pretty often because its a reasonable solution for a common problem. Some top cap designed to allow for adjustment to deal with both different depth 510 connectors on atomizers and battery lengths use a similar approach although with that its obvious that there's a screw inside a screw. But to specifically answer your question, any atomizer that has an adjustable 510 connector center pin most likely has the same design. But you can't assume just because there's a slot or Phillips hole on the center connector that its adjustable. It could just be there to make it easier to fully disassemble the atomizer. Most Kayfun lite aren't adjustable but have a slot for example. Try and adjust one of those and you will suddenly have a loose center block.
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I have seen that pic, very cool indeed, Might give it a go. What's the dimensions of the hole? Is it just one hole straight thru or like 2 levels where the top part is wider then the bottom hole ( countersunk). Sorry I now can see the way the hole is from that one pic but still would like hole dimensionsWhat you have is V4.3 with larger deck and airholes but smaller capacity (only 3.0 Ml)
I've got so annoyed with filling mine up, a long time ago, so I went ahead and made it a Top Filler:
Makes it a whole lot easier to fill it now. I even drilled one for one of our ECF members too.
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So having my R91clone and the Omega dripper still with my friends across the country, I caved and ordered me a black v4.4 to match my Magneto clone. I'll jump to the point - would ekowool right down the channels do the trick here? I still don't really like nor want to deal w/ cotton, and SS mesh would be a secondary project that I WILL embark on sooner than later.
Eco will work, i wouldn't go all the way down the channels, but it sucks, if it's milage your looking for use rayon, its the best anyways. .
You could just drill and tap it for any size thread, as long as you don't mind the screw head raised on the top of your atty. I counterbored mine like Trucker did so the head of the screw was below the surface and wouldn't be in the way of drip-tips with a wider base.
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