Or the NIC. 30 Mg that's a lot
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AMD, I have modified my needle set,12 Pcs Blunt Stainless Steel Dispensing Syringe Needle Tips 1 5" 12ga 23GA | eBay , with a tiny hook that holds one end of the wire. I can wrap by spinning the needle between my fingers and feeding the wire with my other hand. The same trick could be done with drill bits of any size, a little epoxy is all it takes to hold the hook in place.
I use a loupe when I wind coils, or rebuild for that matter, so the needles let me hold things up so I/m not bent over the desk working. Whatever works for you is the way to go!
Does anyone know where I can find a replacement screw for the fill hole on the fogger? I have lost one somehow and haven't been able to find a replacement.
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My Big Fogger came in yesterday's mail, a day early. I took it completely apart and ran it through the UC cleaner three times, once with Dawn, once with Efferdent and once with plain water and rinsed thoroughly after each cycle. The Efferdent did bring out some, what I think was, polishing media. There was some small grains of orange stuff around the base, so I am guessing it was trapped in the air channels.
It is definitely built for a 26650 mod, a lot bigger than a normal Fogger. The chimney, deck and glass are much bigger but are nicely proportioned so it doesn't look all that much different or out of proportion. I have it on an iPV and with the big drip tip on it the Big Fogger is taller than the iPV, I'd say about 75mm overall.
The coil screws are still a problem and are 3mm rather than 1.6mm. This adds another problem to them. The threads are coarser so the wires get into the threads which makes tightening up two coils even more tricky. I did add washers, which helped a little, but it is still tricky.
The insulator for the center post is two pieces. Next time I rebuild I want to check to see if the insulator from a regular Fogger will work. The overall build of the thing is not as good as the stock sized one. All the threads are rough and can be hard to start and tighten, the inconsistency leads to thinking it's tight enough when it's not. I thought I had it tight enough and it leaked like a sieve until I got the top cap actually tightened down enough, that's how bad the threading is.
The air flow is still a little restricted for me on this one. The channels seems to be under 2mm on the sides and the control ring is the same design as a regular Fogger. I'll be grinding off the smooth portions to improve the air flow and may drill out the air channels after that to get an easier draw.
I did a 30 gauge build that came in at .86 ohms and wicked it with cellulose. I'm running it at 22 watts on the iPV and it gives me a nic buzz in four hits. My biggest problem is that now all my other devices, Protanks, iClears, Nautilus and so on, just don't cut it anymore. I've turned into an RTA junkie!
It is a Stainless Steel M3.0 - 0.5mm pitch standard Metric screw. Your hardware store will have it.
I believe its a M2.5 coarse pitch screw. You should be able to use a replacement post screw for something like a Kayfun if you have those, I believe they are that size. Remember the o-ring. You can use the little black ones on the cheap double ended screwdriver that came with the Fogger for those. Otherwise, the typical Kayfun chimney o-ring will usually work.
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Thanks for that link, AMD. Looks like Frog in Fog has a lot of harder to find replacement parts.
On the subject of thread sizes and pitches, any idea what the air ring is on a V4.1 (4.4)?