I'm using 32 gauge at a net of 2.2 ohms, NR-R-NR, and at 15 watts it is really great.
Fogger V4!!
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Interesting... You must have some wrapping skills! I can't even get 30 gauge to form a neat microcoil, so I'll be practicing quite a bit for the fogger, it seems. It was a bit of a pain, hence the lack of rebuild even when my coils were not firing very evenly. I'm sure I'll be getting plenty of practice though!
NR-R-NR sounds super handy for evods especially, I always burn those stupid grommets. I've yet to look into it, but I might have to.
I wrap it on a 14 gauge needle paying half careful attention to even spacing, then after it's wrapped, compress it down tight while still on the needle. It springs back to a nicely and evenly spaced coil every time. I am going to experiment with a 12 gauge needle on the next rebuild just for laughs.
Ah, I forgot how needles work. I did wrap around 14 gauges, and edited my original post accordingly
Wasn't expecting it so soon but hey I'll take it
Two donuts did indeed fit!
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Foggerville.
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Guys, would you be interested in a $50.00 Welder for NR-R-NR?
50 bucks is pricey. But I also have absolutely no clue what goes into making one
Mr. Awsum140,
I found your Wire Welder Schematic. I'm taking off my hat, to you with one hand and grabbing soldering iron with the other.
Good gob man
Hi 350ZMO,
I see you've got YiLoong's Kaiser on that picture.
I bought the Rose V2.
Could you tell me what the hell is the difference between the two?
Also, could you please provide the link where did you order your Big Kaiser from?
Thanks,
Mike.
Sorry M8, I don't have the Rose so I don't know. Looking at the pics the juice slots appear larger and the airflow looks better and it should hold more liquid.
I haven't ordered it, just waiting and hoping.
Sorry M8, I don't have the Rose so I don't know. Looking at the pics the juice slots appear larger and the airflow looks better and it should hold more liquid.
I haven't ordered it, just waiting and hoping.
I got my rose and returned it soon after.
The copper/brass 510 that threads into the SS disc portion of the base is awful. It was either DOA or i stripped it after adjusting it once.
Thanks for the compliment on the welder, AMD. I did make a change from that schematic. The voltmeter is actually on the output of the LM boost module, ahead of the load resistor. Since the voltage drop across that resistor effectively drops to zero once the capacitors have charged it still reads correctly and has some protection from spikes provided by that load resistor. I also would remove the 1000mfd capacitors and add a 220mfd capacitor. I have used the 1000s when fooling with welding to paper clips and such, but for welding Kanthal or nichrome at the gauges used for coils, they aren't really necessary. I haven't tried welding to a battery, yet, but they, and more, may be needed for that. I'm usually welding at 50 volts with 470mfd and a maximum of 800mfd.
That's awful, try Focalecig.com next time. I've got mine in pretty good shape. Sent from USA warehouse and made by Pallas
http://focalecig.com/Product/-Ship-from-USA-Rose-V2-Atomizer-CloneSilver-14056
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I'll second that. I'm happy with the Rose V2 from the USA warehouse of focalecig also. If you'd prefer a polished finish instead of the brushed one they have a version in their China warehouse although shipping obviously would take longer. Supposedly just about identical to the version sold from the USA warehouse even though from a different manufacturer.
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I had a good/bad day with Foggers today. First the bad.
My Big Fogger was just about empty and I wanted to recoil it. At the same time I wanted to drill out the air channels and get some more air into it. So, after cleaning everything and checking the ground down air control ring for a good fit, I went down to the basement and chucked a 3/32 bit in the drill and started to slowly drill out the first one. I got about 3/8" into it when the bit snapped off! When I looked, there was a piece big enough to grab with needle nose sticking out of the hole. As I grabbed that piece it basically fell out. The bit shattered more than broke and now I'm stuck with a clogged air channel.
So, I coiled up a new 4.1. This time I used 8 turns of 30 gauge on a 12 gauge needle, much larger than a 14 gauge needle. The build nets out at one ohm and it took a lot of cellulose to get it wicked up properly. I spent some time, even though I was still frustrated and aggravated over the Big Fogger, arranging the coils "just so" and getting spacing as equal as I could. When I put the bottom piece of the chimney on I got a .25 ohm reading off of it. More careful work with the coils to get them away from the negative block. positive block and chimney, all at the same time. It settled in at 1.11 ohms according to ohm meter, not traceable to any standard of course.
I started out at 18 watts with it and am at 29 watts at the moment, on my way up to finding out what its upper limit might be. To say it's thick, rich, creamy vapor is an understatement. If someone had told me a month ago I'd be vaping at anything over 10 watts I'd have laughed at them.
Now, my next trick will be getting that air hole cleared and both air holes to the same size.
My Big Fogger was just about empty and I wanted to recoil it. At the same time I wanted to drill out the air channels and get some more air into it. So, after cleaning everything and checking the ground down air control ring for a good fit, I went down to the basement and chucked a 3/32 bit in the drill and started to slowly drill out the first one. I got about 3/8" into it when the bit snapped off! When I looked, there was a piece big enough to grab with needle nose sticking out of the hole. As I grabbed that piece it basically fell out. The bit shattered more than broke and now I'm stuck with a clogged air channel.
So, I coiled up a new 4.1. This time I used 8 turns of 30 gauge on a 12 gauge needle, much larger than a 14 gauge needle. The build nets out at one ohm and it took a lot of cellulose to get it wicked up properly. I spent some time, even though I was still frustrated and aggravated over the Big Fogger, arranging the coils "just so" and getting spacing as equal as I could. When I put the bottom piece of the chimney on I got a .25 ohm reading off of it. More careful work with the coils to get them away from the negative block. positive block and chimney, all at the same time. It settled in at 1.11 ohms according to ohm meter, not traceable to any standard of course.
I started out at 18 watts with it and am at 29 watts at the moment, on my way up to finding out what its upper limit might be. To say it's thick, rich, creamy vapor is an understatement. If someone had told me a month ago I'd be vaping at anything over 10 watts I'd have laughed at them.
Now, my next trick will be getting that air hole cleared and both air holes to the same size.
A magnet that strong would magnetize everything in the house! I tried the poke and prod route and it's wedged tight in there. Apparently it jammed just as it broke through into the vertical air channel and shattered. I tried moving it, just a little from the vertical channel and no dice. Maybe a diamond tipped burr.....
My heart goes out to you.
If you could not fish those broken pieces of the bit out, you are going to have to "unharden" those pieces before you could drill them out.
Unfortunately, HSS is not going to become soft if you just heat it up and let it cool naturally on air. It has a nickname: "self hardening steel" It is actually being harden on air. So, you've got to put it in the oven, make it red-hot and then let it cool down with the oven, slowly as the oven itself cools overnight. Than you can drill it.
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