Here it is, not sure if you've seen this or not.
Joshs Definitive Guide To Temperature Control With Titanium Wire | CRAFT VAPERY
Joshs Definitive Guide To Temperature Control With Titanium Wire | CRAFT VAPERY
Fountain V2 Bottom Feeder: Squonk your Atty, not your Mod!
- Thread starter TheWestPole
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Thanks, I've been using Ti with no issues in my Subtanks, Morph tank, etc. just not playing well in the Fountain so far.
Yes, made those myself. 24Ga Core, 32Ga Wrap. It's what I use in everything as a Dual coil that will hold them.
6 wraps on 2.5mm ID. comes out at .30ohm every time.
Kanthal A-1 wire
6 wraps on 2.5mm ID. comes out at .30ohm every time.
Kanthal A-1 wire
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Odd with all the followers of the Fountain here I'm not getting any feedback on the rocket candle issue I've had with two of these. I ALWAYS assume it's something I'm doing wrong.
Yeah, I drew a blank on that one. Nothing like that has happened to me.
I'll try again, next time I'm going to reduce the pre-heat from the DNA200 Escribe default of 200 watts, down to 100, or even zero, maybe that will help. I'm also waiting for my replacement Skyfall, which is similar to the Fountain, the first one I bought had a faulty pump mechanism. I guess I should also try a Kanthal build, though I don't see why wire type would matter.
Don't know why either.
I'm repeating myself, but the only electrical connection in the Fountain I find inconsistent is the negative contact between outside of the squonk section and the bottom of the atty base. I have to keep an eye on that, cleaning and tightening fairly regularly. When I'm getting varying ohm readings, that connection is always been the cause--the only exception being a bad coil leg I had once.
Agreed, I think this is why I wasn't able to use this with the Xvostick, that connection can be temperamental at times but otherwise I've had no issues.
I left this same message in the titanium thread.
Well I just spent an hour building a dual coil for the Skyfall, which is a pump tank below, that feeds the RDA, that sits above it, basically a tank squonker. Annealed the 28 gauge titanium, then made the two coils, slow pulsed them on the mod. Wicked with KGD. Test firing at my normal STM setting of 470f, at 25 watts, with the top cap off I could see red hot legs that are long going into the posts. Just on two, not all four. This is the same issue I had with similar build on the Fountain, which is a similar tank squonker, it uses a squeeze bottle, like a Reo. These red hot legs can and will catch the cotton on fire, as I've seen it, and of course makes for a nasty vape. I spent so much time making this build, I did not want to give up. I had a feeling the normal preheat of 100 watts on my Vaporshark DNA200, may be the cause, as that's when the leads go hot, on first button fire. Went into Escribe, and turned OFF all preheat settings. No more red hot legs! Seems to be working.
I did have to lower my temperature from my normal Ti of 470f, to 400f, and increased my wattage from 25 to 35.
BUILD:
Dual coils, Titanium 28 gauge, 5.5 wraps, 2.5mm ID. Fairly wide coil spread.
According to steam engine total resistance should be .20 ohms. The mod shows .27 ohms. I assume it's the long leads needed to get to the posts.
I'm a pretty novice builder, most of them on simple Subtank Minis, the coils use very short leads, and it's an easy build using mostly 24 gauge Ti, 5-6 wraps. So I have NO idea how folks deal with really long leads that don't sit in the cotton, are mostly out in the open and can get HOT? I've seen photos of builds like mine, so I'm not sure what the difference may be. But certainly turning OFF the preheat settings, has helped. Ideas welcome!
Well I just spent an hour building a dual coil for the Skyfall, which is a pump tank below, that feeds the RDA, that sits above it, basically a tank squonker. Annealed the 28 gauge titanium, then made the two coils, slow pulsed them on the mod. Wicked with KGD. Test firing at my normal STM setting of 470f, at 25 watts, with the top cap off I could see red hot legs that are long going into the posts. Just on two, not all four. This is the same issue I had with similar build on the Fountain, which is a similar tank squonker, it uses a squeeze bottle, like a Reo. These red hot legs can and will catch the cotton on fire, as I've seen it, and of course makes for a nasty vape. I spent so much time making this build, I did not want to give up. I had a feeling the normal preheat of 100 watts on my Vaporshark DNA200, may be the cause, as that's when the leads go hot, on first button fire. Went into Escribe, and turned OFF all preheat settings. No more red hot legs! Seems to be working.
I did have to lower my temperature from my normal Ti of 470f, to 400f, and increased my wattage from 25 to 35.
BUILD:
Dual coils, Titanium 28 gauge, 5.5 wraps, 2.5mm ID. Fairly wide coil spread.
According to steam engine total resistance should be .20 ohms. The mod shows .27 ohms. I assume it's the long leads needed to get to the posts.
I'm a pretty novice builder, most of them on simple Subtank Minis, the coils use very short leads, and it's an easy build using mostly 24 gauge Ti, 5-6 wraps. So I have NO idea how folks deal with really long leads that don't sit in the cotton, are mostly out in the open and can get HOT? I've seen photos of builds like mine, so I'm not sure what the difference may be. But certainly turning OFF the preheat settings, has helped. Ideas welcome!
I had to order one of these, I just had to. Tired of trying to wick the standard carburetor tank just right to maximize flavor performance I have been waiting for a viable alternative to come along. I have almost invested in a squonk mod/atty several times but never did. Now I can see what it is all about with the mods I have. Cool.
Ordered from FT, I already have Ti Gr1 on order from there. Both should arrive some time before I die and when they do I will try Ti in the Fountain V2, I will try to help out then @Mactavish
Ordered from FT, I already have Ti Gr1 on order from there. Both should arrive some time before I die and when they do I will try Ti in the Fountain V2, I will try to help out then @Mactavish
I have a Reo Mini 14500, but I thought it would be fun to play with both the Fountain V2, and Skyfall. My 1st Skyfall was returned for one with a working pump. Since you can't see inside the chamber, you are never sure how well your wicks are juiced, not unlike a real squonker, but I thought with TC vaping, it might give you an indication with less vapor output. But I have not had much luck with my Titanium builds in TC mode. Putting them both aside for now, too much hassle.
Yeah I hear ya. I have seen your posts elsewhere on the subject as well so I understand where you are with it. I am a TC vaper too so I will be giving it a go anyway. So far I have been successful with Ni200 in STMs and my Aromamizer, I am not as confident I will have success with this one with Ni or Ti. My main concern was the negative connection being a contact type where you unscrew the deck from the bottle section and I would be doing that three times a day. Now I am worried about hot legs...
I've done a few Ni200 coils on the Fountain with no problems. The Ti seems to be an issue, I still have to build a few since I have plenty of Ti now. The build deck on the Fountain is no different than any other, it's the negative connection that's different but as long as you pay attention to it you'll be fine.
When you build with Ti, let me know how it goes. I'm wondering if the hot leg issue is caused by the times my thinner gauge 28 wires were not captured straight down under the screws, but sweep upwards by the threads and land on the sides inside the posts. Just searching for the reasons. Also beware any preheat watts applied to a Ti wire build, at least with my DNA200, with preheat at 100watts, that's when I see a leg go RED, super hot. With all preheat settings off, it was much better. Good luck!
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