Frustrated with regulated mods !

[Coastal Cowboy]

The Hammer's lack of portability doesn't come from the fact that it's not regulated or that none of the tanks made to use stock coils provide the right vape.

The Hammer is an 18350 device with a voltage drop at the 510 of between 0.15v - 0.5v. Drop can be reduced by replacing the Hammer's top cap with one from a Chi You.

The sweet spot, if you can find it, won't last longer than a few good drags because even the best 18350's have 800mah capacity brand new. After charge settle and voltage drop, you're already looking at <4.0v to the atomizer after first fire. You'd have to carry several more batteries to get that magical, elusive sweet spot over and over again.

You can use one of the extender tubes that come with some clones and use an 18490, 18500 or 18650. That affects portability, too (not to mention wrecking the aesthetics).

 

[440BB]

Do you think it's safe to vape a tank, using factory drop in coils on a mech?

Using a power device with at least basic protections is always a good idea when using 'drop in', 'factory made', 'blister pack', replaceable head type delivery devices.

While I agree that a short is possible with blister pack heads, it is also possible with any coil that's not tested, whether a factory or hand wound coil. I do think it is relatively safe in either case as long as one tests the topper after replacing the coil, either with an ohm meter or a regulated device that can measure resistance. That's worked for me for about five years of regular use of both mech and regulated mods. It only takes a moment to pop that topper on something that can confirm it's firing properly.

I've never had an insulator on a factory coil fail, only the insulator on my Silver Bullet, multiple times.

The other key is to always do the first fire at arms length after a change in any component - battery, topper or coil. Most all failures will occur on that first fire. I do it automatically for a moment whenever I pick up a rig that's been sitting for a length of time.

 

[Terry Koontz]

While I agree that a short is possible with blister pack heads, it is also possible with any coil that's not tested, whether a factory or hand wound coil. I do think it is relatively safe in either case as long as one tests the topper after replacing the coil, either with an ohm meter or a regulated device that can measure resistance. That's worked for me for about five years of regular use of both mech and regulated mods. It only takes a moment to pop that topper on something that can confirm it's firing properly.

I've never had an insulator on a factory coil fail, only the insulator on my Silver Bullet, multiple times.

The other key is to always do the first fire at arms length after a change in any component - battery, topper or coil. Most all failures will occur on that first fire. I do it automatically for a moment whenever I pick up a rig that's been sitting for a length of time.

Yes, I always put the atty with a new drop in coil on my reg mod and fire it at a high wattage before putting on my mech device.

 

[Carl2]

I've got a Daedalus and have been making SS Clapton coils, .24 for the Griffin and .40 for the Smok TFV8's.

 

[Terry Koontz]

I got it !
Installed 1.8 ohm coil and use 70 % VG juice.
Taste and flavor match my mech mod !
Now I can use the mech at home and the Pico for travel.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[Carl2]

Nice to hear that, same deal here Smok for home and Pico for travel.

 

[leftyandsparky]

I've done the same. I have another Buddha Mini tank at 1.6Ω that's on a Provari 2.5, I switch it to the Pico and match voltage, there is a bit of a difference. Not enough to claim one is better than the other, but it is there.

And I often go out for errands with an EVOD.

Same here! My tanks taste better on the provari than the Pico.
Same tank, same build. I just assumed it was the chip that are in the device that makes the difference.