FYI: Smoktech making Genesis-style atty

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Endor

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The resistance seems to be changing though. anyone else have this happen?

Yes. I *think* this indicates some type of short, perhaps an intermittent one. My first coil settled out, but then I traveled with it, and it started wigging out again... I assume the coil/wick rubbed around as it jostled around in my suitcase.

When I rewrapped the coil using the cigarette paper method, this solved the issue. I've been vaping mine all day today and ohms are have been completely steady at 2.2 from the get-go (and I've been checking it frequently).
 

BJ43

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I'm thinking a bit of NR wire doubled over, twisted & wrapped around the screw so that there is a loopd hole to connect the coil onto would be a good idea on the positive end.
Since a lot of people seem to be over tightening the screws & having problems with that part of the build, this way you could avoid unscrewing & screwing every time & prevent damage to the positive side.
The coil wire would just be poked into the loop of the NR wire & wrapped around it, since electricity flows through the path of least resistance, it shouldn't cause any hotspot issues. You would just need to make sure there was a good tight connection in your wraps.
Here is an A1 with a silver wire extension, same principal can be used on these GSA.
IMG_1070.jpg
 

Zonablazer

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Zonablazer: Since I use a large commercial stove burner to oxidize the wick, it is not very precise. About half the wick. If the coil is not shorting to the wick it doesn't matter if the wick shorts in the base so I just insure that my coil doesn't short.

What is the measurement of the piece of mesh you used? length/width in inches when you first cut it?
 

PastaMonster

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Woohoo! :vapor:
After fiddling with mesh and coils for 2 hours I've managed to do a hybrid between Scubabatdan and BJ's mods, without drilling or widening holes. First few coils had hot spots and would burn out. This is probably not perfect but is vaping up a storm, and wow the mesh wick and coil taste more pure than any atty I've used to drip.

Anyone know what kind of extender I need to make this tank work on the Provari? The one I have isn't making a connection.

Here are victory pics:
IMG_20120825_230010.jpgIMG_20120825_230047.jpgIMG_20120825_230330.jpg
 

hmlessalky

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Woohoo! :vapor:
After fiddling with mesh and coils for 2 hours I've managed to do a hybrid between Scubabatdan and BJ's mods, without drilling or widening holes. First few coils had hot spots and would burn out. This is probably not perfect but is vaping up a storm, and wow the mesh wick and coil taste more pure than any atty I've used to drip.

Anyone know what kind of extender I need to make this tank work on the Provari? The one I have isn't making a connection.

Here are victory pics:
View attachment 129404View attachment 129405View attachment 129406

I did the same setup except I opened up the holes a bit. Works great.

I guess a short 510 adapter would work, I had no problems with it firing on my Provari, but do have a mod that I have to pull the center pin on the SRT to get it to make good contact, just a tiny bit. The problem I had on the Provari was draw. I solved that by taking the dremel out and cutting a few slits on either side of the base to allow air to pass through. Works like a charm now.

Salky
 

PastaMonster

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I did the same setup except I opened up the holes a bit. Works great.

I guess a short 510 adapter would work, I had no problems with it firing on my Provari, but do have a mod that I have to pull the center pin on the SRT to get it to make good contact, just a tiny bit. The problem I had on the Provari was draw. I solved that by taking the dremel out and cutting a few slits on either side of the base to allow air to pass through. Works like a charm now.

Salky

Is there a way to pull out the post in the SRT without breaking it? I think it'd work on the Provari without one, but like you said there's no air flow. Do you have any recommendations for an adapter with either an adjustable pin, or one that is high enough for the SRT?
 

hmlessalky

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Is there a way to pull out the post in the SRT without breaking it? I think it'd work on the Provari without one, but like you said there's no air flow. Do you have any recommendations for an adapter with either an adjustable pin, or one that is high enough for the SRT?

You can pull it out a little by putting a paperclip or something small in the center post hole and wiggle it a bit while pulling it out. Just dont pull it out too far and it will be fine. Or you can pick up an adapter at just about any vendor, i bought my short sealed 510-510 at Good Prophets.

With the slots it draws nice.

Good luck.
 

MickeyRat

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Is there a way to pull out the post in the SRT without breaking it? I think it'd work on the Provari without one, but like you said there's no air flow. Do you have any recommendations for an adapter with either an adjustable pin, or one that is high enough for the SRT?

If you go back a way in the thread, you'll see my solution to that. When I converted to a genesis on a different one, I just poked a hole in the heating chamber with a paper clip that I heated with a lighter for air flow and plugged the hole.
 

TomCatt

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I got one of these and for the money I'm wiling to experiment. I had no airflow at all on a VV gripper or Buzz Pro either. I did have an extension that worked to get airflow but, it looked really dumb. I solved it by doing two things. I extended the slot in the bottom to the edge and deepened it a little with a hacksaw. Then I filed down the threads on either end of the slot. It's aluminum. So it doesn't take a lot of work. Now it will draw and I'll bet it will draw on a Provari too.

View attachment 123260 View attachment 123261

...........


Sent from my iPod touch using Tapatalk
 

Cool_Breeze

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Woohoo! :vapor:
After fiddling with mesh and coils for 2 hours I've managed to do a hybrid between Scubabatdan and BJ's mods, without drilling or widening holes. First few coils had hot spots and would burn out. This is probably not perfect but is vaping up a storm, and wow the mesh wick and coil taste more pure than any atty I've used to drip.

Anyone know what kind of extender I need to make this tank work on the Provari? The one I have isn't making a connection.

Here are victory pics:
View attachment 129404View attachment 129405View attachment 129406

PastaMonster - Can you provide us details on the wick? Starting size, treatment, etc?
 

PastaMonster

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PastaMonster - Can you provide us details on the wick? Starting size, treatment, etc?

I started with a 1" x 2" mesh and treated it like Scubabatdan did in the video posted here. I rolled it along the 1" end which left it too long so I basically cut it in half. After a night of use, it would seem it does really need a bigger wick for it to work well when the. It registers 1.4 ohms on my Provari and I think that's because of a short somewhere. The multimeter I have is a cheap POS I got at harborfreight. I think I need to get a better one for this stuff.

I don't think anyone will want to use the method I did. I think drilling out the wick hole is necessary, but I was trying to be lazy about it. The coil has a hot spot near the positive post, but I'm not sure what to do about that. I was hoping I didn't need to bring out the drill for this one! Oh well. I'm sorry if I haven't described things well enough, this is my first hands on mod haha.
 

Foxman

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Well I watched a you tube for rewicking a Stardust with SS Mesh. INTERESTING, lol. So I got some 250 mesh from a freind to make one. IT WORKS but the flavor is muted, so I'm practicing for next week, lol

Ben vaping with the SS Mesh Stardust all day and this thing gets better with every hit, lol. It should REALLY ROCK with 400 mesh, lol Ready for Wed when my tank gets here, lol
 

MikeE3

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It works very well indeed. Tons of vapor and flavor. The hole in the tank has to be next to the coil as stated before in this thread.

Nice job and nice pictures. I was figuring on doing a similar setup - that is drilling a new hole and plugging the air hole & 1 wick hole. I'm 'clutzy' with a soldering gun, so I used a carto plug pushed into the holes. Just cut the top off the plug, inserted into one of the wick by the neg terminal and trimmed off the piece extending through the hole. I actually put a plug into the both ends of the air hole. The plug at the connector end doesn't seem to interfere with making batt connection.

What size hole did you drill for the new wick hole? It looks oversized for the diameter of the wick itself. Did you drill the hole oversize to get the position of the wick on a slant toward the positive post?
 

Suthrnbuckhunter

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I got mine working great using the pictures from Dan's post.The only problem I had was refills,as the tank was just to danged tight to wigle off.Everytime I got it close.well you know..LOL..it juts came right off and juice went everywhere,soooo I went to Home Depot and got a pack of stainless steel screws and a fiber washer and used the screw to drill the hole.Backed it out,cut it down to size with a cutoff wheel on my drimmel and wahla...fill hole in the side...:)386866_189642361169167_1381730598_n.jpg
 
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