FYI: Smoktech making Genesis-style atty

[BJ43]

Hmmm, didn't realize there was a link . I can see BJ's video. Hey BJ, thought I saw a little glow show up in there Maybe ya need some cotton in there somewhere

I saw that but it goes away with the air flow when I draw. I vape on the edge always, set the voltage as high as I can without burning. That is my sweet spot.

 

[BJ43]

Link no worky BJ, lol. Tried to pull it up on my account and goes to a comment box.

Works for others, don't know what I can do to help.
Just click on the pic and the video should open.

 

[BJ43]

Voltage..? Ohms..? juice Flavoring Color/Density/Organics..?

Voltage as high as I can without burning, about 4.5v on this 2.4 ohm 32g. juice is DIY 100%VG, tobacco, with a little menthol crystal.

 

[Cool_Breeze]

Voltage as high as I can without burning, about 4.5v on this 2.4 ohm 32g. Juice is DIY 100%VG, tobacco, with a little menthol crystal.

Is that a more or less clear juice and absent of Tobacco Absolute or other similar additives?

 

[BJ43]

Has my own booze tobacco. I steep a Opus X cigar in 151 proof rum for a week then filter it several times thru a sheet of 400 ss folded over 4 times so it is 4 layers. 5% of this in vg with or without menthol is my daily vape. It is light amber.

 

[Zonablazer]

For use with 100% VG what type of SS mesh do I use. I've got two of these RBAs inbound from a coop and decided I'd give SS mesh a try. I'm new to the RBA scene and I mainly vape Bobas and GJ but do vape some others at higher PG. Two of these outfitted with different SS Mesh sounds like I'll be in vape heaven.

 

[BJ43]

For use with 100% VG what type of SS mesh do I use. I've got two of these RBAs inbound from a coop and decided I'd give SS mesh a try. I'm new to the RBA scene and I mainly vape Bobas and GJ but do vape some others at higher PG. Two of these outfitted with different SS Mesh sounds like I'll be in vape heaven.

I have found when the tank is underneath the best is 400 mesh, the juice has to rise by capillary action and the smaller the air spaces between in the mesh the better it wicks, I only use 100% VG and have no problem with 400 mesh and hardly no wicking with 325 when the fluid has to rise, Most of the successful use of 325 over 400 is in attys with the tank above and fed by gravity and on these the larger spaces let it flow more juice down.
After testing many wick sizes in my line type attys, IMO the more mesh you can roll as tight as you can of SS 400 mesh the better.
I started out with loose 25mm of mesh for a 2.5mm dia wick, then went to 35mm, then 45mm and now use 60mm very tight roll with a very small center hole for a 2.5mm dia. Seems that wicks are like the golf swing, every thing is opposite to what you would think.

 

[Cool_Breeze]

I wonder how that might translate into PG.

 

[Zonablazer]

So far from what I've read all over if I had to translate that into PG it would be to use the 325.

I wonder how that might translate into PG.

 

[BJ43]

So far from what I've read all over if I had to translate that into PG it would be to use the 325.

If the juice has to go (up) rise like on the GSA use 400, VG or PG. If the juice is coming down from a tank GTUS you can use either 400 or 325 with VG or PG.

 

[BJ43]

I wonder how that might translate into PG.

Went back to my post to see if I had written it in English...

 

[Endor]

I've been wanting to give a Genesis-style atomizer a try for a while now, but gosh they are hard to find and expensive. Was considering a BJ43 "Cheapline" (I have an old humongonizer). But, saw this thread and had to try it. Tons of thanks to Scubabatdan and BJ43.

My first wick and coil is a moderate success. I followed BJ43's build, with the angled drill and the bottom airhole still open (I'm using an EGO adapter to get bottom airflow on my Provari). I do not have an airhole in the chamber.

I'm amazed at the flavor, easily as good as dripping. But I'm still learning the ropes (this is my VERY FIRST rebuildable) so could use some advice.

1) Using 32 awg Kanthal and a 5/4 wrap which the Provari ohms out at around 2.4ohms which I think is about right? However, it seems to jump around a lot (like anywhere from 2.2 to 3.0 ohms). Now, the mouthpiece gets pretty darn hot... so I'm assuming the heat is changing the resistance?

2) Vapor... the amount of vapor seems to vary a bit and is sometimes weak. I find that if I use a harder draw, I seem to get more vapor. What vapor I do get tastes amazingly good. How hard of draw do you use on these types of atties?

3) Is it seriously normal for these things to get so hot? I'm running 4.4v.

Any help/advice is appreciated. I'm looking to build a few more of these, the price is just too good.

Some pics:

 

[BJ43]

Endor: My first wick and coil is a moderate success. I followed BJ43's build, with the angled drill and the bottom airhole still open (I'm using an EGO adapter to get bottom airflow on my Provari). I do not have an airhole in the chamber.

Give it a day of vaping to let it break in properly and use the least voltage you can until it breaks in. The variation on the ohms is normal until it breaks in. I usually do a double draw. Set your voltage by your taste buds and TH and not by what you think it should be. Start low and work up until you find your sweet spot for that coil and wick. Yes these genesis get hot and with the air hole right under the coil it gives a hotter TH. Congrats on your mod, looks great.

 

[Endor]

BJ43, came back to post an update after vaping this for the past hour or so. It's now holding at 2.2ohms completely steady and vaping QUITE well, so you're right on the money!

I'm really pleased with this... this thing vapes better and better the more I use it. I'm shocked at the richness and cleanliness of the flavor, especially compared to my carto tanks.

To those on the fence, I had this thing modded in less than 30 minutes following the lead of the experts here.... well worth the $15.

 

[hdzrtvap]

Endor, if you have more then one i suggest plugging the original air hole and drill air hole in the tube, i found having the air hole in the tube will give me more vapor. I started with a 1/16 air hole.

You can change the 1 piece Top and mouth piece to a top from a dc tank then use your own tip, that will allow you to use different tips and poss keep the heat down.

 

[Scubabatdan]

BJ43, came back to post an update after vaping this for the past hour or so. It's now holding at 2.2ohms completely steady and vaping QUITE well, so you're right on the money!

I'm really pleased with this... this thing vapes better and better the more I use it. I'm shocked at the richness and cleanliness of the flavor, especially compared to my carto tanks.

To those on the fence, I had this thing modded in less than 30 minutes following the lead of the experts here.... well worth the $15.

Congrats!
I always love success stories. You would not believe how many PM's I get on setting up SS wicks. Since this is you first build, any advice on to others on you wick setup? How you oxidized it ect? Also the reason I like the side draw from the cap is, I do not need an adapter for my provari and no juice get into the center tube and through the 510 connector.
Way to go!
Dan

 

[BJ43]

I think the side hole has its advantages as Dan stated but I have one done each way and since I vape 0 nic the TH is 100% stronger with the air hole under the wick instead off on the side. Have two more coming and plan to use the original air hole on those. This is the best TH of any genesis I have and I have a lot.

 

[mgmrick]

I have modified 2 of these. Pretty easy and super results.

Any word on smok making changes on the next batch?

Not that I really care as not much involved with drilling out one hole

 

[Endor]

Endor, if you have more then one i suggest plugging the original air hole and drill air hole in the tube, i found having the air hole in the tube will give me more vapor. I started with a 1/16 air hole.

Good idea, I think I will try that and report my results.

Also, good note on the top cap size. I have a Smok DC tank that size that's not currently in use (with the metal caps too), and it does fit. Drip tip is a little wobby as there is no carto in there.

I think the side hole has its advantages as Dan stated but I have one done each way and since I vape 0 nic the TH is 100% stronger with the air hole under the wick instead off on the side. Have two more coming and plan to use the original air hole on those. This is the best TH of any genesis I have and I have a lot.

Oh yes, I've made myself cough several times with too large a draw!

 

[Endor]

Congrats!
I always love success stories. You would not believe how many PM's I get on setting up SS wicks. Since this is you first build, any advice on to others on you wick setup? How you oxidized it ect? Also the reason I like the side draw from the cap is, I do not need an adapter for my provari and no juice get into the center tube and through the 510 connector.
Way to go!
Dan

Thanks Scubabatdan!

Before I set out to make my wicks, I did tons of research on ECF and on YouTube (including your videos). This is one I found particularly useful, as he does a wonderful job explaining it with such a brilliant accent: Genisis Line - Setup - YouTube

I'm glad to give back any way I can... here's how I did it, and it worked perfectly first-time (as well as second time):

TOOLS & SUPPLIES
- Wife's butane chef torch, which comes with a stand and is crazy hot (more on that below)
- Straightened paper clip
- Pair of pliers
- Tap water in a bowl
- Vegetable Glycerin USP and water (~5ml of water, 25ml VG, stirred together) in a spare Nyquil measuring cup.
- 400 mesh from McMaster-Carr (a bit expensive, but I can will-call as they are local to me)
- Scissors to cut mesh

Cut mesh to 45mm wide x 25mm long (wick will be 25mm long when finished). Folded down 1mm or so on the short (25mm) side, then placed paper clip and began rolling the mesh onto the paper clip from the OTHER (non-folded) side, like what is shown in your video, Scubabatdan. This way, the end of the roll that is on the outside is folded instead of cut -- no frayed edge.

Then, pinching with a bit of pressure, I rolled it between my fingers for a good 5 minutes or so, first within the paper clip and then with. Test fit a few times... "fit" for me meant it slid in fairly easily with a little pressure to push it through, but not sloppy easy. Once it fit, oxidization time.

Fired up the torch, which is in the stand with the flame horizontal. With the clip still in the center hole of the mesh (and holding the paper clip with pliers), begin heating it up. I found that holding the wick horizontal in the flame got the entire wick red hot all at once, like the crude graphic below:


Wire Wick Flame

-------===== <<<<O

Once it was all red hot, immediately quenched in water.

Heated and quenched in water a total of 4 times. I didn't dry in-between.

Burned the back of my hand 1 times reaching for the VG mixture (seriously, blister and all, ouch)

After applying ice to hand, heated and quenched in the water/VG mixture 3 times.

Dried it off, then used a multimeter set to ohms reading to "spot check" a few of the locations on the wick to see if there was any continuity... meter showed no continuity anywhere I touched, so I felt confident.

It really is fairly straighforward, just takes some patience for the rolling and a consistent approach to the heat/quench cycles. The VG really seemed to add a good layer of carbon... I used it instead of ejuice (why waste it) or PG (don't have), and I think it works as good if not better. Plus, it's cheap and readily available at any pharmacy/chemist.

I hope this helps!