G-Tank-US-CO-OP Support Thread - Part 2

[AmnNate]

See, THIS is why I was excited about the GTUS getting shipped. I was lucky enough to buy an early release from Seantex, but I've been anxiously awaiting all the other brilliant minds to fill in the "tips and tricks" section of this support thread, lol. Keep the ideas coming guys! I like this tank, but I really want to LOVE this tank. Unlike Quigsworth, I haven't quite worked all the issues out yet.

I'm also looking forward to getting the t-top for mine, if only for the decrease in size that it offers. Make me proud everybody!

 

[Quigsworth]

Unlike Quigsworth, I haven't quite worked all the issues out yet.

LOL, worked out all the issues? , ya...no...(actually the GTUS didn't have any more issues than any of my other rebuildables, just different ones ) but after lovingly modding a modders mod I got it just about perfect (for me anyway but more on that later)...IMO the pure flavour from the mesh and the coolish vape on the GTUS works awesome with subtle fruits, FA's Cantaloupe hasn't tasted as good since

 

[bradlyb]

Well I am running into some issues with mine. Got the tanks to seat (the 'string theory' is working great! I wrapped some string from a tea bag around it three times. The tank doesn't budge even when turned upside down and flicked a couple of times....) yet I can't get any of the 10 wicks I have tried to actually wick.

Good coils, no shorts, but dry hits. I filed off the nipple to use a thicker wick, but it is still not feeding correctly. When I take the tank off and drip onto the wick, which is coming through the part where the nipple usually is, the wicking effect works properly. It on hoe to to have something to do with pressure from the tank...

Right now I am using it with the drip top and it's working great.

 

[asdaq]

Brad, does your wick slip in the tank hole easily? Sounds like air replacement in the tank is having trouble there. Also you can cover the air inlet with your finger and suck to increase pressure on the tank and get it flowing. If that works and you only need to do it occasionally then it is likely an air bubble that needs to be worked out. If it works and you have to do it often, then the wick is too tight.

 

[JollyRogers]

Anyone with a GTUS also have a STURM MOD? I would really like to see a pic of the GTUS in small mode or T-Tank mode on a STURM MOD.

 

[Scubabatdan]

Anyone with a GTUS also have a STURM MOD? I would really like to see a pic of the GTUS in small mode or T-Tank mode on a STURM MOD.

Comparision pic:

Dan

 

[JollyRogers]

Thanks Dan! Looks great on the ProVari, and may run it on mine. Diameter looks like it may end up larger then the STURM MOD... But I guess I will know soon.

 

[mianker]

Dan I have plans in Dothan this weekend so if there is anyway I can help you with the co-op just let me know.

 

[mianker]

It looks great on my Provari and Legacy. But it looks fantastic on my Precise+ 18650.

Honestly it works so well I will plan any future PV purchases around my G-Tank-US.

 

[Quigsworth]

I can't get any of the 10 wicks I have tried to actually wick.

Good coils, no shorts, but dry hits. I filed off the nipple to use a thicker wick, but it is still not feeding correctly. When I take the tank off and drip onto the wick, which is coming through the part where the nipple usually is, the wicking effect works properly. It on hoe to to have something to do with pressure from the tank...

The dialing in the wicking on a "Top Tank" is what makes the GTUS fun ...and Asdaq nailed it, getting air into the tank to negate the siphon effect is a done in mm's. Your wick can't be a tight fit, there needs to be a bit of "wobble" but not so much that gravity over comes capillary action letting the juice stream out. Grab the loosest fitting of your 10 then really tighten up the wrap by rolling it in your fingers then try it again...the closest analogy I can think of is one of those inverted water bottles in a Hamster cage...the water just sits at the end of the metal tube, a perfect balance of vacuum and gravity until the the little guy drinks (or we press the fire button). The "cover the air hole and lightly blow" works well if you have a wick that's right on the edge of being on the too big side...

 

[AmnNate]

^^^ THIS may be the most useful explanation to my fight with the GTUS. Thank you. I honestly guessed my best option was to try 325 mesh instead. I already took out the ptfe spacer in the top of the coil chamber to fit a bigger wick and even started rolling wicks without a tube inside, but I still struggle with dry hits due to slow wicking. Between the "string theory" for the tank creep and this newfound wick knowledge, I may just lean more towards the love side of this gadget!! Thanks again Quigsworth! Maybe I should have just sent you mine to get working properly in the first place, lol.

 

[hunter55]

And again, not to beat a dead horse on this but when you do find a nice "o" ring that allows a reasonable amount of force to remove/replace the tank and you still get creep get some of these:

View attachment 102498

they're called spring or wave washers...any decent hardware store has them (I got SS ones from Fastenal) place one on the top of the tank once installed then screw the outer on...instant cure

Do you know the size or part number?

 

[Scubabatdan]

^^^ THIS may be the most useful explanation to my fight with the GTUS. Thank you. I honestly guessed my best option was to try 325 mesh instead. I already took out the ptfe spacer in the top of the coil chamber. Between the "string theory" and this newfound wick knowledge, I may just lean more towards the love side of this gadget!! Thanks!

I have since ceased the use of the PTFE spacers, If the wick is oxidized correctly you will not have a shorting issue. If the wick is too tight it will not wick properly (dry hits) too loose and it will flood (poor vapor production). I use a 2" pin (I stole from my wifes sewing box) and wrap a 35mm x 35mm piece of 400 around it tight. Oxidize and reroll it tight, test fit, wrap coil, mount wick and coil, then remove pin. Works like a champ everytime this way.
Dan

 

[KenG]

Any other sources for Kanthal wire ?
The main seller on ebay is off until the 27th. (as found out in this thread http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/apv-discussion/298702-kanthal-a1-32-awg.html)

 

[Quigsworth]

So you wrap around a pin Dan?...I found the drinking straw wick works good on bottom tanks but I personally found the solid wick worked better on the GTUS...ga! I can't wait to play and experiment...

 

[Scubabatdan]

So you wrap around a pin Dan?...I found the drinking straw wick works good on bottom tanks but I personally found the solid wick worked better on the GTUS...ga! I can't wait to play and experiment...

Yeah a straight pin like this one:

I like using the pin because it allows me to wrap a good coil and mount it with a rigid center to work with, then when it is all setup I simply remove the pin.
Dan

 

[ED-209]

I have since ceased the use of the PTFE spacers, If the wick is oxidized correctly you will not have a shorting issue. If the wick is too tight it will not wick properly (dry hits) too loose and it will flood (poor vapor production). I use a 2" pin (I stole from my wifes sewing box) and wrap a 35mm x 35mm piece of 400 around it tight. Oxidize and reroll it tight, test fit, wrap coil, mount wick and coil, then remove pin. Works like a champ everytime this way.
Dan

Dan, did the dimensions of the wick change? I watched the your most recent vid on preparing the wick and thought it was a 20mm x 35mm piece?

Just wanted to keep up with the latest and greatest in preparation for the arrival of my G-Tank

Thanks,

 

[Scubabatdan]

Dan, did the dimensions of the wick change? I watched the your most recent vid on preparing the wick and thought it was a 20mm x 35mm piece?

Just wanted to keep up with the latest and greatest in preparation for the arrival of my G-Tank

Thanks,

Without the PTFE spacers and using the pin technique I found 35mm x 35mm about perfect. On the preassembled ones, I will not be installing the PTFE spacers, but will include them if you want to use them.
Dan

 

[theECB]

Does moving to the larger wick require removing the t-tank spike also and drilling that hole bigger? Can the T tank carts still be used without the spike?

 

[MikeE3]

Whoot, look what arrived today. Thanks Dan. But I do need some help, threads aren't right, please read further.

Now about the help.

The small tank cover fits fine. But the large tank cover's threads aren't 'threads'. They're a pretty pattern of what should be threads but it's useless to attempt forcing it on.

Dan, can you offer any help to correct it?

Here's the best pic I could get of the large tank cover's threads.

And the small tank cover for comparison.

I won't start assembly of anything 'till I hear back from you. Thanks.