Still no green for me but I can't wait! I'm patient, though, I'll just be drooling over all your guys' pics 
G-Tank-US-CO-OP Support Thread - Part 2
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Three things I can think of that would cause flooding, and things to check:
1. Excessivly loose wick, but you said you could not fit a bigger one in.
2. Air holes not completely open due to machining. Low air flow increase air pressure causing a higher neg air pressure on the tank causeing it to pump out more liquid.
3. Air leak at the tanks oring allowing juice to leak in.
Well this is all I can think of right now. if it has a hard draw, then you need to check all the air holes for blockage.
Hope this helps,
Dan
Sounds Like you may have just a bit too much slop in the wick...I don't want to give away too many of my little secrets ...but another thing I had in my GTUS tool box was a roll of plumbers teflon thread tape ($1.50 a roll at Lowe's/Home Depot)...for the guys that removed the bushings for a fatter wick and are having shorting issues or to tweak your wick to get that perfect size (allow air back into the tank...but not freely leak) take a piece of teflon tape and fold it in half (length wise) and start with one wrap on the wick where the mid section touches it and progressively add more till you nail it...plus it's a great insulator for shorting (lay a tiny piece in your base hole too), plus it's far enough from your coil so you'll not get any of that claimed heat caused teflon "off gassing"...just throwing it out there...
One more thing, and I know Dan does the pin thing but I could never get it to wick without flooding making a straw...my GTUS wicks where as solid as I could roll em' (with my over bored mid section hole I was running 45mm wicks) and they worked best that way, but as a nod to Dan...that was the GTUS I had, my new one maybe a total different creature
...but another thing I had in my GTUS tool box was a roll of plumbers teflon thread tape ($1.50 a roll at Lowe's/Home Depot)...for the guys that removed the bushings for a fatter wick and are having shorting issues or to tweak your wick to get that perfect size (allow air back into the tank...but not freely leak) take a piece of teflon tape and fold it in half (length wise) and start with one wrap on the wick where the mid section touches it and progressively add more till you nail it...plus it's a great insulator for shorting (lay a tiny piece in your base hole too), plus it's far enough from your coil so you'll not get any of that claimed heat caused teflon "off gassing"...just throwing it out there...One more thing, and I know Dan does the pin thing but I could never get it to wick without flooding making a straw...my GTUS wicks where as solid as I could roll em' (with my over bored mid section hole I was running 45mm wicks) and they worked best that way, but as a nod to Dan...that was the GTUS I had, my new one maybe a total different creature
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I didn't have a pin small enough and couldn't get a paper clip straightened well enough to roll on, so I built mine without and the wick is practically solid (the hole down the center is almost non-existent) and it's wicking just fine without flooding. This is my first "Geetus" build, the pic is with the 3ml tank and top
I'm finding the vape to be extremely cool (1.8 ohm coil), not sure how I like that yet. My vapor production is pretty lackluster, too, though I did improve it by tightening the coil on the wick a bit more since it went all loosey-goosey on me during assembly (I pulled the wick right out of the coil at one point and had to re-insert it into my wraps ). I think I'll see if this build breaks in and maybe do up another one tomorrow. This is only my second genesis atty. I never fully mastered the Line and sold it, but it did give me some practice and I'm determined to get this thing vaping good ;-)
Oh, and for anybody else who has that particular drip tip, it's a bit too long and almost seats against the top of the juice tank. I had almost zero air flow at first and it took me a few minutes to realize it was my drip tip restricting it. Just had to pull it back out a little bit and all was well.
I'm finding the vape to be extremely cool (1.8 ohm coil), not sure how I like that yet. My vapor production is pretty lackluster, too, though I did improve it by tightening the coil on the wick a bit more since it went all loosey-goosey on me during assembly (I pulled the wick right out of the coil at one point and had to re-insert it into my wraps
). I think I'll see if this build breaks in and maybe do up another one tomorrow. This is only my second genesis atty. I never fully mastered the Line and sold it, but it did give me some practice and I'm determined to get this thing vaping good ;-)Oh, and for anybody else who has that particular drip tip, it's a bit too long and almost seats against the top of the juice tank. I had almost zero air flow at first and it took me a few minutes to realize it was my drip tip restricting it. Just had to pull it back out a little bit and all was well.
Sounds Like you may have just a bit too much slop in the wick...I don't want to give away too many of my little secrets
One more thing, and I know Dan does the pin thing but I could never get it to wick without flooding making a straw...my GTUS wicks where as solid as I could roll em' (with my over bored mid section hole I was running 45mm wicks) and they worked best that way, but as a nod to Dan...that was the GTUS I had, my new one maybe a total different creature
True, the hole is better for a capillary genisis, and solid for a gravity genisis, I guess I am lucky, just never had that problem using the pin hole wick.
Dan
Just reread this, LOL you have to remove the mid section to use the drip top, it screws on the very bottom piece where you connect the wick and coil.
I.e.
Last one on the right is the correct setup for the drip top.
Dan
Added.
Opps you were talking about the drip tip you have in the picture.... got it now.
Dan
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I make a lot of my own DT's (I use pieces of old SS carto tubes and the bodies of soft touch Papermate pens) but if you run into Killjoys's issue (and I have) you can file "V" grooves in the atty end of your DT's so air can get through...this works better if you're like me and you allocate certain DT's to certain devices.
Hmm?
I haven't used the T-tank top, yet. I was referring to the drip tip I'm using on top ;-) The lower portion of that drip tip (below the o-ring) protrudes more than most and hits the top of the juice tank if fully inserted. That's not a problem with the GTUS, I just mentioned it in case somebody else runs into a similar problem since it was a simple fix
On the the plus side of that, if you have a real tight DT it solves your tank creep issue 
Very true, quigs. Just use the drip tip to push it back down. No problems with tank creep here, though
Sorry, Dan, I think I confused you
Sorry, Dan, I think I confused you
Well I found some drilling burs in 2 of the 4 holes in the mid section. Removed with a straight pin and will give the restricted airflow another go.
Seems to be much better now. Edit: Yeah much better. One long lung drag feels like 'how chinese say' "Like 50 mouthfuls"
Also I have experienced no tank creep with the small o-ring Dan provided and the 3 ml tank setup.
What is the larger o-ring for?
Seems to be much better now. Edit: Yeah much better. One long lung drag feels like 'how chinese say' "Like 50 mouthfuls"
Also I have experienced no tank creep with the small o-ring Dan provided and the 3 ml tank setup.
What is the larger o-ring for?
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The larger o-ring is just an alternative for those having trouble with the smaller one, I think. He gave us two sizes so we could use whichever worked best
Very true, quigs. Just use the drip tip to push it back down. No problems with tank creep here, though
Sorry, Dan, I think I confused you
You may laugh but one of my contractors runs a machine shop (doesn't smoke or vape but he's fascinated with these devices) I showed him my GTUS and walked him through some of the issues and he suggested threading the DT holes in the outers and making threaded DT's with cross grooves...but then I showed him my wave washer later...he offered me a job
lol, well the wave washers are a much cheaper solution than a threaded drip tip
lol, well the wave washers are a much cheaper solution than a threaded drip tip
Yup, didn't want to blow him off though, he's a good guy (older Austrian fella)... kinda guy I want to keep in my court if I ever need some machining done...I thought about going to him when Dan was having so much trouble with EMS...problem is, with this guy, sure, all our devices would be all within .001" +/- of each other then polished and lazer etched w/serials but Dan would be rolling them out to us Xmas '15 @ $300/ea
Im green!! Just checked on a whim and saw the good news. Am curious to see how it works compared to the sturm G-tank which i love
Sounds Like you may have just a bit too much slop in the wick...I don't want to give away too many of my little secrets
One more thing, and I know Dan does the pin thing but I could never get it to wick without flooding making a straw...my GTUS wicks where as solid as I could roll em' (with my over bored mid section hole I was running 45mm wicks) and they worked best that way, but as a nod to Dan...that was the GTUS I had, my new one maybe a total different creature
Thanks so much for the tips gentleman. The vapor production is less than what I should be getting too, but I wasn't sure if that was a coil issue or because of the flooding. My 1st 35x30mm wick had the same issue and as I recall my 2nd 35x35 I really rolled tight after taking it off the pin to insure it would fit and it went right through the hole w/o any friction. So being too loose could be the problem.
I don't think it's the o-ring. I'm getting a good fit with the larger o-ring w/o any creep.
I'll take it apart and make sure the coil is firing good then roll another wick or maybe try the 'teflon trick'. If the teflon helps it sure points to my wick as the problem.
Here's hoping the 3rd times the charm.
I'm sure I fell of my bicycle more than twice before I learned to ride. I'll get it right yet.edit: oh yea - all the air holes are fine, I did check them before assembly
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