Geekvape Aegis Legend Owners Group

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Punk In Drublic

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Wow people feel this way about MAC's? I for one will never touch or use a Microsoft product or service ever again, but this is a story for another time!:confused:

Anyhow I picked up 4 pairs of Sony VTC5As from 18650 battery store during the sale last week because I plan on picking up the Legend Limited Edition Alpha Kit as soon as I can. I love the quick ramp up time on this thing but I have a couple of questions regarding the VPN Mode and Bypass mode.

I tried Bypass mode and I nearly choked at the 3.8 volts the mod said it was pushing. From what I read, it basically bypasses the Board giving the sensation of a Mech mod? I was just wondering what exactly the purpose is and why people use it?

I tried the VPC or VPN mode (forgot what it's called) and that was interesting enough to toy with in the future. Does anyone have any reccommended settings that they use in this mode?

Now I gotta admit, using Bypass and VPN did bring my coils to the state of having to change them immediately but this was because I was experimenting with those modes for the first time. I honestly don't see any use for Bypass mode for me atleast, but I will be tinkering with VPN.

Also I have been vaping for 3 years now, but still feel somewhat of a beginner since really haven't graduated to RDA's, rebuilding and DIY juice yet due to lack of free time. Last time I wrapped a coil was on the Kanger toptank mini! :shock:Hell I just finally got around to reading Mooch's and Badattitude's informative blogs about battery basics. I've pretty much been using factory coils for the most part as well.

I love this mod! I was just wondering if some of you guys have any suggestions about VPN and bypass mode.

Thanks

Bypass will simulate an unregulated device. The power output will be dependent on both battery voltage and resistance. So if you were using a 0.2 ohm coil as an example, at 3.8 volts this would be approx. 72 watts. You can use an Ohms Law calculator to figure this out. Some prefer this method for it does simulate a mechanical device.

VPC (not VPN) refers to Variable Power Curve which allows you to apply a specific amount power in watts for a specific amount of time. I believe the time window is 5 seconds so each interval = 1 second (could be wrong on this). An example of this would be to apply 100 watts for the first second, then gradually drop that to 50 watts over the remaining 4 seconds. There is no recommendations to this, it is what you prefer.
 

BillW50

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Same here TwistedThrottle. Works great on the Aegis 100W. But the Legend shows 0v until you fire. Depending on the build, that might not be a great idea to fire. Plus it is off a bit on the Legend. Like it said 4.15v on one occasion, but I pulled out the cells and checked the voltage and they were 3.98v. So sort of kind of works. o_O
 

BillW50

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The Aegis Kit came with the short lived Shield subohm tank. And the Aegis Legend comes with the Aero subohm tank. As far as I know, they both can use IM1/IM4/Super Mesh coils. The Aero can use straight glass or bubble. While the Shield can only use straight, or can you use Aero's bubble glass on it too? Otherwise all I can tell is the Shield uses a flip top, while the Aero uses a twist off top cap. Is this all correct?

Oh wait... the Shield is 27mm and the Aero is 25mm. So I guess the glass can't be interchanged.
 

Miklos103

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Oh yeah that would do it. The Aegis doesn't have preheat, boost, or whatever you want to call it in TC. The best you can do is crank up the wattage in TC. And are you using an Aegis 100W or the Legend?
I got the legend. Even if I start TC at 200w it never gets close lol.
So I am better off with a really simple wrap, like single wire?
 

BillW50

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I don't believe I ever heard this on ECF, but just on other forums I heard them mentioning that a few Legends will report weak battery (even with fully charged batteries). They still work, but it will dial down the wattage. Normally I would say they were using batteries either not high enough amps or the batteries are old and tired. But the people saying this I know should know better than this.

And they continue to say then it will start to auto fire on its own. Thus it could burn your coil and wicking and get your mod very hot. What they say is they heard the grounding connection isn't so good inside of the mod, which leads to this problem. I have 3 Legends and I have never experienced this at all. Has anybody else heard of this?
 

Just Want To Quit

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Bypass will simulate an unregulated device. The power output will be dependent on both battery voltage and resistance. So if you were using a 0.2 ohm coil as an example, at 3.8 volts this would be approx. 72 watts. You can use an Ohms Law calculator to figure this out. Some prefer this method for it does simulate a mechanical device.

VPC (not VPN) refers to Variable Power Curve which allows you to apply a specific amount power in watts for a specific amount of time. I believe the time window is 5 seconds so each interval = 1 second (could be wrong on this). An example of this would be to apply 100 watts for the first second, then gradually drop that to 50 watts over the remaining 4 seconds. There is no recommendations to this, it is what you prefer.

Thank you for the explanation, much appreciated! When I used bypass I was using the 0.2 single mesh Aero Coil that was just starting to get to it's end of life. Geekvape is rating this best between 65 and 75W best but I found 60 to be the best. At 65W it just started to taste burnt with a good 4 second draw. I can kind of see how running this with raw voltage made me cough the way I did. I'll experiment with Bypass again in a little bit once my Mesh Pro and Alpha Tanks arrive with much beefier coils.

I only use bypass to figure out whats left in the batts. As much as I like battery pictures that represent an ish of whats left, seeing the number scratches the itch.

Never thought of that! Just be sure to do it well before you receive your low voltage warning if running them down that far. Thanks for the advice! It will be interesting to see how this compares to what my Nitecore UMS2 says it's at.
 

Miklos103

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My Legend says the volts in the batteries in wattage mod, before you fire it it will say how much is left. Then when you fire it shows how much it's using.

And on another note I put a .40ohm Clapton ss430 coil in and it works great in TC with a TCR of 138 and watts at 80. It only gets up to about 60w but it tastes a little better and isn't as hot as running at 60-70w straight on power mode.

I'm so satisfied with this damn thing lol
 

Punk In Drublic

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Thank you for the explanation, much appreciated! When I used bypass I was using the 0.2 single mesh Aero Coil that was just starting to get to it's end of life. Geekvape is rating this best between 65 and 75W best but I found 60 to be the best. At 65W it just started to taste burnt with a good 4 second draw. I can kind of see how running this with raw voltage made me cough the way I did. I'll experiment with Bypass again in a little bit once my Mesh Pro and Alpha Tanks arrive with much beefier coils.

My above figure of 72 watts was based on a 0.2 ohm coil and a voltage of 3.8. Same coil at 4.0 volts would be 80 watts, at 4.2 volts, that’s nearly 90 watts. Play with the Ohm calculator in Steam.

Ohm's law | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators
 

BillW50

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My Legend says the volts in the batteries in wattage mod, before you fire it it will say how much is left. Then when you fire it shows how much it's using.
Check again. Mine doesn't display the correct battery voltage and if you change the wattage, that voltage reading changes too without firing.
 

Punk In Drublic

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The voltage seen on the idle screen within wattage mode is not the remaining voltage of the batteries but is the maximum voltage that will be applied based on the user’s power setting and coil resistance. Change either the power or the resistance and that voltage will change as well. The voltage does slightly fluctuate as the fire button is pressed, but this is in parallel to the current draw which is not a constant number.
 

Just Want To Quit

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Sorry if this may sound stupid but I'm still confused about how TC mode works on this thing since we can't adjust the TCR in NI, TI and SS. I have never used TCR before on any mod and really have no clue what it's about. I assume that these are preset resisistances for the 3 different type of TC wire? If so, are these TCR's very specific to the TC wire type, or is there any debate on it?

So what exactly is the purpose of TCR mode then? What's the difference between using it or TC-SS mode for my freemax SS coil? I'm so confused.

I haven't used TC mode with anything since the days of the topbox mini and the SSOCC's.. yes really.
 

BillW50

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Just Want To Quit, TCR is the catch all for all wire types. You can use a TCR for the standard Ni200, Ti, SS, or anything else. The TCR value for Ni200 and Ti is pretty cut and dry and whatever manufacture's wire you use, will have the same TCR value. This is true because nickel and titanium are nearly pure of whatever they are.

SS is different, because it is an alloy of different materials. So manufacture A may use one process for their SS, while manufacture B uses another. Thus depending which one you use, the TCR maybe different. And the value most mods use for SS, will likely not to be correct for that wire (although hopefully it is close enough).

So on your mod for TC, you could use either the preprogramed wire types or use TCR. And if you are using the wrong setting (TCR) for the coil you are using, TC wont work correctly. But when the TCR is close to what the wire exactly is, it works but the temperature reading will be off. So to zero in on the correct TCR, you tweak the TCR value to calibrate the temperature reading.
 
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