Giving up on rebuilding and here's why..
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Thanks for all the helpful replies guys.
After looking at the cotton.. Yes I do see the grain now! Next time I'll definitely cut it with the grain but why doesn't Kanger Mention this?
I understand most of you are more familiar with different cotton but is it really as Terrible as some of you make it out? I'm not arguing the fact that there may be better options but I just ordered another Subox Mini Kit in white and I will want to use up that cotton too eventually.
I'm currently looking into the different types but does anyone else have any more suggestions? Yes, I do want something that is a lot more easier to work with and manipulate without falling apart.
Since I Just popped that new OCC coil in, I probably won't be getting to trying this again for another 2 weeks or so until this coil reaches it's EOL. I'll more than likely have to bump this thread again when I actually get to it unfortunately.
In the mean time, that RBA section is in a ziplock all dried out with the coil still attached. I didn't dry burn the coil at all before letting it dry. Is this ok?
On a side note, I'm very confused as to what premade coils I can use on this thing besides the standard vertical OCC and Klapton. I thought I just read that the SSOCC coils can be used for the Subtank Mini? How is that if they are Stainless Steel? I thought SS coils were for Temp Controll only? And for the standard OCC coils.. that is Kanthal right? Someone told me it's really Nichrome?
I'm so confused.. I thought Kanthal was for VW while Nickle, Nichrome, Stainless Steal and Titanium were all for Temp Control only? Sorry for going from discussing rebuilding (which is still the topic of this thread) to the different Premade coils kangertech has available but this has been on my mind for weeks now. Kanger's official site doesn't get into the details of what is compatible with what and neither do most online stores that I've seen either except for here.
Here Sweetvapes says that the OCC coils are made from Nichrome wire - Kanger Subtank Vertical OCC Coils - Kanger Coils - Kangertech - Tanks & Coils
And here on this page it says that Nichrome is for VW? I thought it was for TC only?
*NEW* Kanger SSOCC Coils (Subtank Nebox) - Kanger Coils - Kangertech - Tanks & Coils
Sweetvapes also sells a Kanger 0.2 ohm coil. If my KBox Mini only fires down to 0.3, why do they offer this (something I can't use on the Kbox Mini) and nothing between 0.3 to 0.4 then? I'm only talking about the premade here.
Sorry for for the confusion.. Oh boy..
After looking at the cotton.. Yes I do see the grain now! Next time I'll definitely cut it with the grain but why doesn't Kanger Mention this?
I understand most of you are more familiar with different cotton but is it really as Terrible as some of you make it out? I'm not arguing the fact that there may be better options but I just ordered another Subox Mini Kit in white and I will want to use up that cotton too eventually.
I'm currently looking into the different types but does anyone else have any more suggestions? Yes, I do want something that is a lot more easier to work with and manipulate without falling apart.
Since I Just popped that new OCC coil in, I probably won't be getting to trying this again for another 2 weeks or so until this coil reaches it's EOL. I'll more than likely have to bump this thread again when I actually get to it unfortunately.
In the mean time, that RBA section is in a ziplock all dried out with the coil still attached. I didn't dry burn the coil at all before letting it dry. Is this ok?
On a side note, I'm very confused as to what premade coils I can use on this thing besides the standard vertical OCC and Klapton. I thought I just read that the SSOCC coils can be used for the Subtank Mini? How is that if they are Stainless Steel? I thought SS coils were for Temp Controll only? And for the standard OCC coils.. that is Kanthal right? Someone told me it's really Nichrome?
I'm so confused.. I thought Kanthal was for VW while Nickle, Nichrome, Stainless Steal and Titanium were all for Temp Control only? Sorry for going from discussing rebuilding (which is still the topic of this thread) to the different Premade coils kangertech has available but this has been on my mind for weeks now. Kanger's official site doesn't get into the details of what is compatible with what and neither do most online stores that I've seen either except for here.
Here Sweetvapes says that the OCC coils are made from Nichrome wire - Kanger Subtank Vertical OCC Coils - Kanger Coils - Kangertech - Tanks & Coils
And here on this page it says that Nichrome is for VW? I thought it was for TC only?
*NEW* Kanger SSOCC Coils (Subtank Nebox) - Kanger Coils - Kangertech - Tanks & Coils
Sweetvapes also sells a Kanger 0.2 ohm coil. If my KBox Mini only fires down to 0.3, why do they offer this (something I can't use on the Kbox Mini) and nothing between 0.3 to 0.4 then? I'm only talking about the premade here.
Sorry for for the confusion.. Oh boy..
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I would suggest a beginner to begin with a basic starter kit. Even if it takes a short journey it provides user alter every little problem which otherwise will be serious with developed devices. For example an evod set (not evod 2) is good for beginning and a good back up afterwards.
My long journey end up with taifun GT II and a Subtank mini. They are most problem free devices so far.
With ready heads you will have problems too. The tips of the wire may not be cut properly and it shorts. the cotton in it may be thick and it doesnt feed right you have burnt taste.
And even the ready ones can be rewicked.
These are all due experience you have to deal with.
If you have an experienced buddy it will be very easy to adopt with subtank mini. When you begin with it alone it might even make you give up vaping at all (God forbid)
Even with flirting with watts without knowledge is a contrast for vaping. Personally I consider lower watt will provide long battery life and good for battery. I use 7watts with whatever ohm I have. I use 4 wraps on a 2mm it is around 1 watt sometimes 0.7 -08 which is my sub ohm.
Now I suggest you use silica instead of cotton try it and later you come to cotton again. Live a while with your device and learn things you did not understand.
My long journey end up with taifun GT II and a Subtank mini. They are most problem free devices so far.
With ready heads you will have problems too. The tips of the wire may not be cut properly and it shorts. the cotton in it may be thick and it doesnt feed right you have burnt taste.
And even the ready ones can be rewicked.
These are all due experience you have to deal with.
If you have an experienced buddy it will be very easy to adopt with subtank mini. When you begin with it alone it might even make you give up vaping at all (God forbid)
Even with flirting with watts without knowledge is a contrast for vaping. Personally I consider lower watt will provide long battery life and good for battery. I use 7watts with whatever ohm I have. I use 4 wraps on a 2mm it is around 1 watt sometimes 0.7 -08 which is my sub ohm.
Now I suggest you use silica instead of cotton try it and later you come to cotton again. Live a while with your device and learn things you did not understand.
Yes it can be confusing, here brief overview of the most common wire types and their use:
VW only: Kanthal, NiChrome
TC only: Ni200, Ti
VW and TC: SS
And with all the devices comming out that let you set you're TCR manually there are a lot more wire types going to be used in the future I guess.
I also hated the subtank RBA. It is in my opinion not one off the easiest build. Try an RTA with posts instead of screws...made it alot easier for me....strangely for me the easiest I have found sofar is the Goblin Mini, but alot of peeps wouldn't agree
Easiest wicking method I have found is:
- cut a strip about the width of the coil from the cotton, following the grain
- stretch the cotton till you can see through it
- roll it up
- insert through the coil
It's know as the 'scottisch wick'method....lot's of video on it on youtube
VW only: Kanthal, NiChrome
TC only: Ni200, Ti
VW and TC: SS
And with all the devices comming out that let you set you're TCR manually there are a lot more wire types going to be used in the future I guess.
I also hated the subtank RBA. It is in my opinion not one off the easiest build. Try an RTA with posts instead of screws...made it alot easier for me....strangely for me the easiest I have found sofar is the Goblin Mini, but alot of peeps wouldn't agree
Easiest wicking method I have found is:
- cut a strip about the width of the coil from the cotton, following the grain
- stretch the cotton till you can see through it
- roll it up
- insert through the coil
It's know as the 'scottisch wick'method....lot's of video on it on youtube
I like watching Rip Trippers' videos, they are very entertaining. I bet his beard would make some awesome wick..
I too am rocking the Kanger Subox Mini Starter Kit and through a series of unfortunate events I ended up using the RBA deck. I tried using my OCC coils first and did a very good job at burning their cotton. Regretfully the Kanger tank's RBA deck is notorious for gurgling and spit back. Along the way I have picked up a few hints at how to minimise it, such as how to clear out a flooded tank/coil head and proper cleaning. Although I do get a bit bothered at trying to vape 30watts or greater as the spit back intensifies and it heats up the drip tip very easily. Quite a task to take a long vape at higher watts.
Another; however, minor issue I have experienced is that tank leaks every so slightly. It is nonetheless annoying as gets juice on my fingers and then onto the mod. I have noticed the juice likes to slowly, yet consistently, slip behind and past the lower o-ring, and eventually out from the bottom of the glass tank. I have taken to using a vape band on the lower portion of the glass in an attempt to seal it off. I have literally applied a band aid to my tank.
All of the previous posts about how to NOT cut the cotton against the grain is true. Doing the opposite will surely make a mess of things. I am still going through the cotton which came along with the starter kit and what I like to do is cut approximately 2-3mm in width, then strip of a layer from each side. Again, with the grain/layer, not against. Slides in very easily between the supplied 0.5 Ohm coils; however, you will need to roll one end thin and pointy. I know, obvious duh!
Another; however, minor issue I have experienced is that tank leaks every so slightly. It is nonetheless annoying as gets juice on my fingers and then onto the mod. I have noticed the juice likes to slowly, yet consistently, slip behind and past the lower o-ring, and eventually out from the bottom of the glass tank. I have taken to using a vape band on the lower portion of the glass in an attempt to seal it off. I have literally applied a band aid to my tank.
All of the previous posts about how to NOT cut the cotton against the grain is true. Doing the opposite will surely make a mess of things. I am still going through the cotton which came along with the starter kit and what I like to do is cut approximately 2-3mm in width, then strip of a layer from each side. Again, with the grain/layer, not against. Slides in very easily between the supplied 0.5 Ohm coils; however, you will need to roll one end thin and pointy. I know, obvious duh!
Ok.. someone has already mentioned this, but I will re-iterate...
The different types of materials are:
*Kanthal (Iron, Chromium, Aluminum)
*Nichrome (Nickel, Chromium)
*Stainless Steel (Iron, Chromium, ??)
Titanium
Nickel
The First two, Kanthal and Nichrome are alloys specifically designed for making heating wires. They are a mix of metals that when electricity is applied, turns the resistance into a heat while maintaining a general form. Those two are used specifically for Variable voltage and variable wattage ecigs. Read further to figure out why.
Stainless steel is a mixture of Iron, chromium, and other alloys depending on the grade of steel. For example, 304 stainless is iron, %18 chromium, and %8 nickel, whereas 410 stainless steel contains iron, 17% chromium and no nickel. It conducts electricity much better than the kanthal or nichrome wires, so if it's used in a variable wattage device, It is pretty assured it is a subohm build.
Titanium and Nickel are base metals and both can be found on the periodic table. They are not mixtures of metals. Because of this, if you have a nickel or titanium wire, It should heat up the same from one manufacturer to the next. As these metals heat up, the resistance to electricity goes up in a very predictable manner. So, the ecig should know how hot the wire is by remembering the beginning resistance (when cold), applying the current resistance once electricity is applied (hot) then figuring out how hot the wire is by the difference of those two. It doesn't actually measure the temperature of the coil, instead it figures it out by knowing how much resistance the wire is given.
Now, the three with an astericks are alloys, or mixtures of metals.. they a generally are used in Variable voltage/wattage devices.. the only wildcard in the bunch, is Stainless steel. It's resistance profile doesn't change that much when heated, so people have been using them in Temperature control mods as well. The general vaping community has decided on 316L which is a low carbon version of the typical 316 SS. The wildcard is when someone decides to use a different grade of Stainless Steel.. who knows what will happen.
That page you linked looks confusing... What I just posted gives you an idea of what is used where.
Now, for my own opinion.. I stick with Kanthal for the most part. I do have some titanium and Nickel, but I prefer the nickel for temperature control. Titanium when overheated can cause Titanium Dioxide. Titanium dioxide, while mostly harmless, has been shown to cause respiratory tract infections in lab rats WHEN INHALED. Even though there's not much evidence that it is harmfull besides that one study. The manufacturers of Titanium Dioxide powders used in cosmetics hasn't shown any increased risk of cancer due to occupational exposure, so I am sure the miniscule amount that MIGHT occur on the coil is next to nothing compared to what they go through. The only reason I don't like it, is I am suspicious of the wire I have now.. my fingers turn grey when handling it, so there is some sort of substance on the wire itself. Whether or not it's oxidation, I have no idea... so, I stick with nickel. But I'd say I am %95 a kanthal kind of guy.
sorry for the rant...but I hope this helps explain it.
I hate the RBA v1 and v2.... I like the OCC heads, I just rebuild themI think I'll be sticking with stock made OCC's for my Subox and the CL's for my Ego One. I don't need this headache.
I may try it ONE MORE TIME and ONLY one more time. Once that cotton is used up, I'm done trying. If I can't even twist the end of cotton and wick it through a coil, I have no business trying to wrap a coil and even more so making my own juice.
Yup, and if you went old school silica, learning to hand wrap a coil on the wick. You would have a coil/wick that can be dryburned and cleaned at will without removing ANYTHING. And keep going for 3 to 8 weeks.Hey guys, I recently bought a Subox Mini Kit a few months ago and tried to wick the RBA for the first time and I just can't do it. I went through nearly all the cotton that came with the Subox Mini trying to wick that coil on the RBA and EVERY TIME I pull it though it rips apart. I've tried 2 to 4 mm roughly and cutting it down the edges but it doesn't work. I tried peeling off the harder edges but It doesn't work.
When I finally got it to pull through (after using over half of the cotton that came with the kit), I cut off the edges a little bit and pulled it up and screwed on the RBA cap after making sure the cotton was pushed down to the side air holes.
When I started using this thing, I heard popping at first and I was CONSTANTLY GETTING JUICE IN MY MOUTH!
If there is a learning curve to simply wicking cotton through a friggen coil like this then well... I CAN'T AFFORD IT. I'd rather pay a little more even just to not have to NOT deal with this crap!
I think I'll be sticking with stock made OCC's for my Subox and the CL's for my Ego One. I don't need this headache.
I may try it ONE MORE TIME and ONLY one more time. Once that cotton is used up, I'm done trying. If I can't even twist the end of cotton and wick it through a coil, I have no business trying to wrap a coil and even more so making my own juice.
Thanks for listening to my Rant but I'd rather PAY FOR CONVENIENCE to be honest and by the looks of things, most likely with juice as well.
Doesnt get any simpler or lazier then that.
If you use silica, be sure to buy solid core.
Diameter to equal your coil.
Since you were unsuccessful with cotton, try it again. Use twice as much & roll very tight. You should be on the verge of deforming the coil. Done this over a year with stellar results. Doesn't matter with grain etc. I cut my teeth on CVC cotton which has no decernable grain..
Diameter to equal your coil.
Since you were unsuccessful with cotton, try it again. Use twice as much & roll very tight. You should be on the verge of deforming the coil. Done this over a year with stellar results. Doesn't matter with grain etc. I cut my teeth on CVC cotton which has no decernable grain..
I can't really See the Fiber Direction of a Cotton Pad without the aid of a Magnifier. But if I give the Cotton Pad a Gentle pull in one Direction it will pull apart. But in the Other Direction, it is Surprisingly Strong.
Yeah... Mentioning the Direction to cut a Cotton Pad is something that Kanger could have Included. As well as Many YouTube How-To Videos.
Ok.. someone has already mentioned this, but I will re-iterate...
The different types of materials are:
*Kanthal (Iron, Chromium, Aluminum)
*Nichrome (Nickel, Chromium)
*Stainless Steel (Iron, Chromium, ??)
Titanium
Nickel
The First two, Kanthal and Nichrome are alloys specifically designed for making heating wires. They are a mix of metals that when electricity is applied, turns the resistance into a heat while maintaining a general form. Those two are used specifically for Variable voltage and variable wattage ecigs. Read further to figure out why.
Stainless steel is a mixture of Iron, chromium, and other alloys depending on the grade of steel. For example, 304 stainless is iron, %18 chromium, and %8 nickel, whereas 410 stainless steel contains iron, 17% chromium and no nickel. It conducts electricity much better than the kanthal or nichrome wires, so if it's used in a variable wattage device, It is pretty assured it is a subohm build.
Titanium and Nickel are base metals and both can be found on the periodic table. They are not mixtures of metals. Because of this, if you have a nickel or titanium wire, It should heat up the same from one manufacturer to the next. As these metals heat up, the resistance to electricity goes up in a very predictable manner. So, the ecig should know how hot the wire is by remembering the beginning resistance (when cold), applying the current resistance once electricity is applied (hot) then figuring out how hot the wire is by the difference of those two. It doesn't actually measure the temperature of the coil, instead it figures it out by knowing how much resistance the wire is given.
Now, the three with an astericks are alloys, or mixtures of metals.. they a generally are used in Variable voltage/wattage devices.. the only wildcard in the bunch, is Stainless steel. It's resistance profile doesn't change that much when heated, so people have been using them in Temperature control mods as well. The general vaping community has decided on 316L which is a low carbon version of the typical 316 SS. The wildcard is when someone decides to use a different grade of Stainless Steel.. who knows what will happen.
That page you linked looks confusing... What I just posted gives you an idea of what is used where.
Now, for my own opinion.. I stick with Kanthal for the most part. I do have some titanium and Nickel, but I prefer the nickel for temperature control. Titanium when overheated can cause Titanium Dioxide. Titanium dioxide, while mostly harmless, has been shown to cause respiratory tract infections in lab rats WHEN INHALED. Even though there's not much evidence that it is harmfull besides that one study. The manufacturers of Titanium Dioxide powders used in cosmetics hasn't shown any increased risk of cancer due to occupational exposure, so I am sure the miniscule amount that MIGHT occur on the coil is next to nothing compared to what they go through. The only reason I don't like it, is I am suspicious of the wire I have now.. my fingers turn grey when handling it, so there is some sort of substance on the wire itself. Whether or not it's oxidation, I have no idea... so, I stick with nickel. But I'd say I am %95 a kanthal kind of guy.
sorry for the rant...but I hope this helps explain it.
Thanks for all that and the very in depth explanation.
I just want to make sure I got it now:
Kanthal - VW
Nichrome - VW
Stainless Steel - VW and TC
Titanium - TC only
Nickle - TC Only
Are you sure there isn't one more wildcard to that with Nichrome? That new KangerKit says it does TC with Nichrome as well.
Ok as far as what cotton to use, I'm hearing silica and Rayon? Someone at my vape shop to me to practice with cotton balls first. Once I can get the wicking down, only then will I consider moving on to picking up some wire, a coil jig and any tools I'm going to need.
Really wish I could edit the title of this thread. Looking at it now, I think I came off as a little too negative.
Really wish I could edit the title of this thread. Looking at it now, I think I came off as a little too negative.
kanthal and nichrome for vw
steel, tit and nic for tc.
I have a feeling the new kangerkit thing was a misprint.
Well I'm really confused now. I just doubled checked at Kanger and that's what they are claiming supposedly. Myvaporstore.com also states it does TC in Nichrome. I guess your guess is as good as mine.
What is upsetting to me is that it appears their new 75W TC Topbox Kit does all these different coils in TC mode and yet Kanger only sells Nickle NI200 coils for the device? I really am thinking of picking up that toptank Mini kit as a back up to my subox mini kit and would like to know why Kanger doesn't make a TI, SS, or Nichrome SSOOC coils?
It just doesn't make sense.. So many conflicting descriptions on so many of these websites.
Thanks for all the replies. I watched RipTrippers and a few other youtube guys.
I heard that the Subtank Mini RBA Plus was one of the easiest decks to rebuild on. I know that's contrary to what many of you are saying but I've still seen some youtubers say it as well..
I'm looking at the cotton right now and I have no idea what "with the grain" means here. I know what it means in the context of shaving or petting an animal.. but I'm not seeing it here. The videos that I did watch all used the same cotton that came with the kit and yes one of them mentioned something about not cutting against the grain of the cotton but because he didn't get into detail of what he said I didn't bother looking into it as none of the others even mentioned this.
I should have took a picture of the build because after I took out the RBA and removed the top cap.. The cotton was almost covering the coil and it sure didn't look like that after I primed it and screwed it back together the first time.
As I stand right now, I pulled out the wick and rinsed the entire RBA under hot water, shook it out and wrapped it in a napkin and plastic bag to dry. I keep hearing conflicting things about rinsing the coils out with tap water. Some say it's bad for the coil, some say it doesn't matter. I don't know who to believe.
To make matters worse I had trouble getting the threads of the OCC to catch the chimney and I hope I didn't strip them. At least I can say I'm not getting juice in the back of my throat that was the equivilent to post nasal drip!
Again sorry for the rant but can you blame me. I can't even wick a coil apparently. I'll check out the posted video and will follow up with the replies tomorrow. Either way, I just opened up a brand new 0.5 Ohm OCC so I'm content for the moment.
Thanks guys.
Edit: And yes, that is the Youtube Video that I followed. Lets just say mine didn't look as nice as his. Remember my job was just to WICK this thing!
Patience brother. Try wicking with a cotton ball. I waste far more Kojendo than I ever get to work.
Unwrap a cotton ball it will be 10 times easier.
Remember you want the wick tight but still able to slide in the coil.
I tried rebuilding the RBA in my sister's Subtank mini.
The deck is cramped but it is relatively easy.
You sure got that right.
If you made the internal diameter more than 1/16th inch and you had 8 wraps you were sure to short SOMEWHERE!
I went to rebuilding the OCC heads for my Kanger Subtank Nano. That was a very easy build.
I have to disagree brother. I think the RBA us easier to build than the OCC heads not much but trapping the leads with screws is easier.
The one frustrating thing about rebuilding the OCC heads was clipping the wires close enough to prevent a short.
I do have to say one thing the second version of the RBA us much improved over the first. Version
Yes the new heads are backward compatible.
Nickel and Titanium are exclusively TC.
I Would have no qualms using Stainless steel in power mode.
The new TC heads for tor those who use Subtanks on TC MODS
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