Good morning everybody . I'm new and researching ,first mech / build......

[bood]

Good day everybody .
I'm and looking info into a mech mod which I'm prone to buy and build soon .

I'll make a short story , I had a chance to buy some used mechs from friends lately , I didn't buy them for some reasons and only lately I became interested and started researching ( just smoked both tobacco cig + "normal" e-cig and didnt have great time before to make me a culture on )

I'm gonna look into a steel / straight looking mech and and an easy build good value atomizer .

I know the ohm laws and how to apply them ; I will start with from scratch so a "fresh" vape build , 0.5+ ohm or so to begin with.

I've 1 order for 2x Sony vtc5 as I couldn't find a deal for a vtc4 , I guess I'm ok with them .

I saw the video of a vtc exploding ( more of a burning off ) not that was reassuring but someone told me this is the best thing that can happen in "extreme" situations. That obviously are both rare and very dangerous . Which I will to my best to avoid , from beginning and on .

Don't know very much about LG batteries might do some research into them too.

I will post some advice request ,
in the meanwhile feel free to alert or advice me on anything you'd like

nice to be here

 

[bombastinator]

howdy and welcome to the forum
there are systems that take some of the dangers out of mechs. I quit vaping mechs years ago and have forgotten most of how to deal with them myself but there are many here who still use them. The big one I do remember is use of IMR chemistry batteries (as differentiated from batteries sold by a company named IMR) IMR batteries are very high drain and most importantly don't blow up. they merely kind of melt into hot nasty black goo.

the chemistry of the vtc5 is NMC. NMC was not available when i was vaping mechs and I cannot speak to their safety level This article implies it is lower than IMR though.

from Types of Lithium-ion Batteries – Battery University
Lithium Nickel Manganese Cobalt Oxide (LiNiMnCoO2 or NMC)
One of the most successful Li-ion systems is a cathode combination of nickel-manganese-cobalt (NMC). Similar to Li-manganese, these systems can be tailored to serve as Energy Cells or Power Cells. For example, NMC in an 18650 cell for moderate load condition has a capacity of about 2,800mAh and can deliver 4A to 5A; NMC in the same cell optimized for specific power has a capacity of only about 2,000mAh but delivers a continuous discharge current of 20A. A silicon-based anode will go to 4,000mAh and higher but at reduced loading capability and shorter cycle life. Silicon added to graphite has the drawback that the anode grows and shrinks with charge and discharge, making the cell mechanically unstable.

The secret of NMC lies in combining nickel and manganese. An analogy of this is table salt in which the main ingredients, sodium and chloride, are toxic on their own but mixing them serves as seasoning salt and food preserver. Nickel is known for its high specific energy but poor stability; manganese has the benefit of forming a spinel structure to achieve low internal resistance but offers a low specific energy. Combining the metals enhances each other strengths.

NMC is the battery of choice for power tools, e-bikes and other electric powertrains. The cathode combination is typically one-third nickel, one-third manganese and one-third cobalt, also known as 1-1-1. This offers a unique blend that also lowers the raw material cost due to reduced cobalt content. Another successful combination is NCM with 5 parts nickel, 3 parts cobalt and 2 parts manganese (5-3-2). Other combinations using various amounts of cathode materials are possible.

Battery manufacturers move away from cobalt systems toward nickel cathodes because of the high cost of cobalt. Nickel-based systems have higher energy density, lower cost, and longer cycle life than the cobalt-based cells but they have a slightly lower voltage.

New electrolytes and additives enable charging to 4.4V/cell and higher to boost capacity. Figure 7 demonstrates the characteristics of the NMC.

Figure 7: Snapshot of NMC.
NMC has good overall performance and excels on specific energy. This battery is the preferred candidate for the electric vehicle and has the lowest self-heating rate.
Source: Boston Consulting Group

 

[bood]

hey thank you that's super fast and likely good advice , I will look into IMR info now
and eventually choose one of those .....

safety first of course
thanks!

quite interesting read btw

 

[bombastinator]

hey thank you that's super fast and likely good advice , I will look into IMR info now
and eventually choose one of those .....

safety first of course
thanks!

quite interesting read btw

I should say that "cant speak to their safety level" means "i really dont know" you might be fine with them. There are mech experts around. Id wait for them if you've already bought batteries before buying more.

 

[bood]

Sure.

Got the vtc5 because I felt they were a widespread good and possibly quite safe choice .

 

[VictorViper]

Assuming they're authentic, the VTC5 is a quality battery. Click the "ohmmm" link in my signature to go to the blog of a famous and important member of the community, Mooch. Just about everything you could ever hope to learn about battery safety and individual batteries is in there.

Look into the Steam Engine for a comprehensive vaping calculator and build assistant. I will personally recommend you avoid this to start and do your calculations manually in order to get a more practical, hands-on understanding of ohm's law and the interplay of your battery/mod/coil/atomizer.

Be safe, enjoy the rituals of mechs and rebuilding, and always lean on the community here for any questions you may have. You don't really find mech users who aren't also enthusiasts, so take baby steps and keep us posted on your journey!

 

[bood]

absolutely ..
thanks for the great advices.. yes I 've been reading about Mooch measurements and saw some tables..
and I saw the vtc5 is in the list of good batteries ..

 

[LilWhiteClouder]

absolutely ..
thanks for the great advices.. yes I 've been reading about Mooch measurement and saw some tables..

Good day everybody .
I'm and looking info into a mech mod which I'm prone to buy and build soon .

I'll make a short story , I had a chance to buy some used mechs from friends lately , I didn't buy them for some reasons and only lately I became interested and started researching ( just smoked both tobacco cig + "normal" e-cig and didnt have great time before to make me a culture on )

I'm gonna look into a steel / straight looking mech and and an easy build good value atomizer .

I know the ohm laws and how to apply them ; I will start with from scratch so a "fresh" vape build , 0.5+ ohm or so to begin with.

I've 1 order for 2x Sony vtc5 as I couldn't find a deal for a vtc4 , I guess I'm ok with them .

I saw the video of a vtc exploding ( more of a burning off ) not that was reassuring but someone told me this is the best thing that can happen in "extreme" situations. That obviously are both rare and very dangerous . Which I will to my best to avoid , from beginning and on .

Don't know very much about LG batteries might do some research into them too.

I will post some advice request ,
in the meanwhile feel free to alert or advice me on anything you'd like

nice to be here

and I saw the vtc5 is in the list of good batteries ..

Mooch is in the know and who we rely on for good advice on batteries - Great to hear battery safety is top of your mind!!

Have you ever used a mech? I assume so, since your buddy had them (My friends and some family get the full rundown, battery Mod Atty Driptip How it comes apart How do the coils get hot Dont you know those things explode,quite a bit).

What's your hands on experience with a mechanical mod?

 

[LilWhiteClouder]

absolutely ..
thanks for the great advices.. yes I 've been reading about Mooch measurement and saw some tables..
and I saw the vtc5 is in the list of good batteries ..

Oh, and welcome to the forum!! You've definitely found a great place to learn and build your knowledge.

 

[bood]

Mooch is in the know and who we rely on for good advice on batteries - Great to hear battery safety is top of your mind!!

Have you ever used a mech? I assume so, since your buddy had them (My friends and some family get the full rundown, battery Mod Atty Driptip How it comes apart How do the coils get hot Dont you know those things explode,quite a bit).

What's your hands on experience with a mechanical mod?

i vaped it ? yes
much better then a standard plain industrial / pen e-cig..
other then this or opening one to see inside ,
I saw something of the build process.. nothing fancy but nice indid ( not the build itself .. which i guess from what I'mseeing around was pretty standard ..talking the care and time to put into it ..at moment I want to get into it too and happy to build and learn to build my own )

 

[bood]

Mooch is in the know and who we rely on for good advice on batteries - Great to hear battery safety is top of your mind!!

Have you ever used a mech? I assume so, since your buddy had them (My friends and some family get the full rundown, battery Mod Atty Driptip How it comes apart How do the coils get hot Dont you know those things explode,quite a bit).

bro I'm absolutely ok with the full rundown .. or the bits of the load you want to serve ..up to you I'm ready
thanks for the warm welcome..

 

[VictorViper]

So the build process you're referring to is going to be the atomizer itself - which I assume you already know is separate from the mod. The atomizer is where the magic happens.

To keep things simple, forget about the mod. At the end of the day, a mechanical mod is nothing but an enclosure for a battery with a switch and an atomizer connection. Dead simple as it gets.

When you screw down your atomizer, it connects to the positive terminal of the battery. Your button simply allows you to choose when you connect the negative terminal. With an atomizer connected and the button pressed, a circuit is completed and power flows.

Your atomizer (with its coil) is the only thing regulating your battery's output. The wires we use have electrical resistance (measured in ohms (or fractions of)), and this is where the math comes in.

Without getting overly technical, lower resistance means higher current flow and vice versa. More current means more power (watts) at the expense of battery life, and again vice versa.

You have no ability to freely control power with a mech, so you must build your coil with a target resistance in mind in order to regulate that power. It gets really complicated from here, because your atomizer, build quality, wicking ability, personal tastes, etc. etc. etc. will ultimately determine your goal. That'll take some trial and error.

My general recommendation will be to start out with simple builds using round wire while you get the hang of things. Much less to go wrong, and far easier to replicate. Never discount consistency - when you find the perfect build, believe me, you want to be able to repeat it.

Coil building is the nitty-gritty, here. Assuming proper maintenance, your mech will be hands-off. But building an atomizer is very much hands on and subject to human error. Start simple, go slow, aim for clean and tidy. Understand your positive and negative points and know how to check your insulators.

This stuff gets lengthy and even overwhelming quick. So many variables, but only one, unwavering, brutally rigid principle to know back and front. Let us know when you feel like you've read up enough and are ready to take the plunge.

 

[MacTechVpr]

And if you want to wind one in 30 seconds that's utterly stable electrically, efficient, that you can nail precisely every time…

Tensioned Micro Coils. The next step.
Protank MicroCoil Discussion!!

Tehnsioned Contact Micro Coil, MacTechVpr

• MacTechVpr
• Jun 25, 2015
• coil contact tensioned

Nudge me if I can be of help.

Good luck.

 

[VictorViper]

See that perfect tube of red? You want that perfect tube of red. Excellent thread that will keep you busy for weeks, massively helpful to me personally.

 

[bood]

Coil building is the nitty-gritty, here. Assuming proper maintenance, your mech will be hands-off. But building an atomizer is very much hands on and subject to human error. Start simple, go slow, aim for clean and tidy. Understand your positive and negative points and know how to check your insulators.
This stuff gets lengthy and even overwhelming quick. So many variables, but only one, unwavering, brutally rigid principle to know back and front. Let us know when you feel like you've read up enough and are ready to take the plunge.

aahah omg reading it this way feels so much like of a step into unknown ..
what can I say ..
I'm about choose on a 316L 26wg stainless steel wire ( resistance ) ..from what I gathered around I'm about bulding 2.5/3mm round spaced coils ..10 rounds to begin with ..screwdriver to roll it on , and scissors ..( and ohm-read measuremnt of all the circuit then..I've read that from a mod to another , the same coils can result in pretty different whole-circuit measurement )

I will make some of them just for trying purpose.. until i reach the desired shape and result .
I have a voltage tester too .
I dont mind if it takes more then a minute to build the first coils .

I'm still thorn on the atty but looking into big chambered ones , to facilitate builds ( and build better later )

sure I will go super slow and aim to a clean and safe job , not to low in resistance too
to begin with

 

[MacTechVpr]

See that perfect tube of red? You want that perfect tube of red. Excellent thread that will keep you busy for weeks, massively helpful to me personally.

Thx for the nod VV. Yep, if you can target a res/pwr point that matches your pref temp and build tightly just to that point at your mod/batt's pwr sweet spot, you're going to nail that red. Turning one out with uniform strain method (using Kanthal) will ensure uniform oxidation (turn-to-turn insulation) and that's what you'll get…each and every time and stay that way. Tensioned coils like the below twisted lead parallels don't fire inside out. They just fire red LIKE THAT.

Good luck.

 

[VictorViper]

A stable, built atomizer has the same resistance no matter what you put it on. Your coil IS a certain measurement. Your devices will read that to the best of their ability and that will be the only reason for variance (ignoring other factors here for simplicity).

 

[bood]

And if you want to wind one in 30 seconds that's utterly stable electrically, efficient, that you can nail precisely every time…

Tensioned Micro Coils. The next step.
Protank MicroCoil Discussion!!

Tehnsioned Contact Micro Coil, MacTechVpr

• MacTechVpr
• Jun 25, 2015
• coil contact tensioned

Nudge me if I can be of help.

Good luck.

thank you very much . I'll read on -about simmetry , tension , and the things needed resultin in a coil giving the best vape out of the atomizer.

 

[bood]

A stable, built atomizer has the same resistance no matter what you put it on. Your coil IS a certain measurement. Your devices will read that to the best of their ability and that will be the only reason for variance (ignoring other factors here for simplicity).

thanks for the head up ..
sure a coil has his resistance and 1 number measure it .
but..
I read around that depending on the mech and atom , the res can result in a different whole-circuit reading .
the thing just spiked on me as a bit strange , but I assumed to research more .

 

[bood]

Nudge me if I can be of help.

sure
t y