Good morning everybody . I'm new and researching ,first mech / build......

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MacTechVpr

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A stable, built atomizer has the same resistance no matter what you put it on. Your coil IS a certain measurement. Your devices will read that to the best of their ability and that will be the only reason for variance (ignoring other factors here for simplicity).

Key word there is stable. In practice all coils see varying levels of thermal output distortion. A variable has no way of relating the state of the wind merely calc res returned by the software. In operation and wetted a coil may register only a minor deviation when in fact a segment or lead has gone wildly hot. Symmetry is important as anyone whose kinked a stove top coil knows. It can cause failure or unpredictable performance.

Good luck. :)
 
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VictorViper

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thanks for the head up ..
sure a coil has his resistance and 1 number measure it .
but..
I read around that depending on the mech and atom , the res can result in a different whole-circuit reading .
the thing just spiked on me as a bit strange , but I assumed to research more .

It's true, but don't worry too much about it. Every device will have its own internal resistance and things complicate further with factors like voltage drop and sag... but that's all stuff that you work out afterward. Diminishing returns stuff to get your consistency up and really dial things in for your device.

Right now, set a simple goal: wrap a coil that works and works safely. It all comes together real quick once you get to the DOING.
 
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MacTechVpr

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It's true, but don't worry too much about it. Every device will have its own internal resistance and things complicate further with things like voltage drop and sag... but that's all stuff that you work out afterward. Diminishing returns stuff to get your consistency up and really dial things in for your device.

Right now, set a simple goal: wrap a coil that works and works safely. It all comes together real quick once you get to the DOING.

Aha, but there's the rub. You get fastidious with time. A vape is only as valuable as you can repeat it.

;) Good luck.
 
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MacTechVpr

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Can't be overstated. I've spent literally hundreds of hours building, tearing down, rebuilding, rinse, repeat. All for the sake of "The One". X atomizer gets X coil every time and my results are always as expected. That took effort

I know. I'm with you on getting the simple down first. As I started testing strain as an adaptation, I tried everything else along with everyone as all do here. Man, did I go through money and time after every new and shiny thing. Even tho I don't rec coilers, I'd certainly suggest that over trying every kind of coil and device to new vapers. No getting a consistent first built at a temp and output that gets us over is critical. Big playground from there for sure. Nothing beats just learning to rebuild even if that's not a personal goal. Knowledge beats all.

Good luck VV. :)
 

bood

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Right now, set a simple goal: wrap a coil that works and works safely.
beside being very interesting that results change that much from a build to another, I sure will stick with what you said a coil that works (safely).
It just didn't seem that hard to do , but I will eventually get back and post some pictures ; as I don't need anything more to begin with . Sure will be good to begin with a right tension well made symmetric coil , that works . Lets see what happen.

But i alert you that it will take some time , many days because I still have to buy everything ..
:)
 
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Evileclipse

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First thing, is safety. Please be careful? I will also help with anything you can imagine. One small thing that I saw was you mentioned 316L for wire to use. This wouldnt be recommended for someone new because it has a varying ohms load with temperature. As the wire gets hot, the ohms get higher, and it pulls less power. Easily managed by a veteran, but just an extra variable to have to figure out. For someone new, as the other gentleman have mentioned, consistency is your main goal, and can't be repeated loudly enough. Kanthal a1 or Ni80(nichrome) are your best choices for using on a mech, and you will find varying opinions from everyone. Ni80 for the win!
 

bood

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safety first .
of course .

in the list there is good battery (mooch list ), high ohm coils ( 0.50 0.60+ to begin? ), no unwanted or fake contacts I will double check the insulated atomizer pin , that firing the button the battery makes a stable contact , and obviously unwanted contacts occurring while bulding

ok , I will look also into the Kanthal which is very mainstreem too .
 
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MacTechVpr

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safety first .
of course .

in the list there is good battery (mooch list ), high ohm coils ( 0.50 0.60+ to begin? ), no unwanted or fake contacts I will double check the insulated atomizer pin , that firing the button the battery makes a stable contact , and obviously unwanted contacts occurring while bulding

ok , I will look also into the Kanthal which is very mainstreem too .

You're getting some very good advice and I like your approach.

About one of the most vexing challenges for new vapers is termination. Appreciating how important it is. By and large it constitutes one of the most common problems. Things like irregular points on thes tiny screws we use can cause disparity in contact and bam, you have a variation in resistance, overheating and oxidation at the contact causing further problems. Consistency again is critical.

Secondly, Kanthal is an amazing material. It was designed specifically for heating elements solving a variety of problems with alternatives. It builds an alumina (ceramic) oxidation layer when charged which is thermally conductive and electrically non-conductive. This promotes the even heating of the element and its segments and insulates turn-to-turn contact making closed (contact) coils viable and efficient. Strain winding with a pin vise on either a screw or known diameter mechanically forces wire to come together as tightly as needed to encourage this oxidation when you initially break it in by electrical pulsing. This stable consistent wind (or when it's not) will serve you like a rosetta stone to interpret everything else that you're seeing. Then things like bad contact termination or inadequate wicking become blatantly apparent.

Once you eliminate the heating element itself as a potential trouble source understanding all else starts to become more intuitive.

Best of luck B. :)
 
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bood

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You're getting some very good advice and I like your approach.

About one of the most vexing challenges for new vapers is termination. Appreciating how important it is. By and large it constitutes one of the most common problems. Things like irregular points on these tiny screws can cause disparity in contact and bam, you have a variation in resistance, overheating and oxidation at the contact causing further problems. Consistency again is critical.

Secondly, Kanthal is an amazing material. It was designed specifically for heating elements solving a variety of problems with prior metals. It builds an alumina (ceramic) oxidation layer which promotes the even heating of the element and its segments. Using strain by winding with a pin vise on either a screw or known diameter mechanically forces wire to come together as tightly as needed to encourage this oxidation when you initially break it in by electrical pulsing. This stable consistent wind (or when it's not) will serve you like a rosetta stone to interpret everything else that you're seeing. Then things like bad contact termination or inadequate wicking become blatantly apparent.

Once you eliminate the heating element itself as a potential trouble source understanding all else starts to become more intuitive.
ty

frankly it's all pretty interesting stuff ( also the coil thread you linked.. bit long but sure worth a read )
so its a pleasure to receive advice .. on anything here.. while they are all worth for a beginner , many arguments are also interesting

the best part is that I have a chance to start with a bang .. I intend the safe one ;) ;) ;)

jokes apart I wonder .. once my mod is vented , my batteries are safe ( high discharge rate and test and possibly built to melt on short circuit ) , and my coils measure 0.50+ ohm , and contacts are safe and stable in and between the mod and the atomizer , and -possibly - if I carry the thing around I do it with no battery inside ,

what is the next trouble or can-be extreme conditions that may incurr
 

MacTechVpr

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ty

frankly it's all pretty interesting stuff ( also the coil thread you linked.. bit long but sure worth a read )
so its a pleasure to receive advice .. on anything here.. while they are all worth for a beginner , many arguments are also interesting

the best part is that I have a chance to start with a bang .. I intend the safe one ;) ;) ;)

jokes apart I wonder .. once my mod is vented , my batteries are safe ( high discharge rate and test and possibly built to melt on short circuit ) , and my coils measure 0.50+ ohm , and contacts are safe and stable in and between the mod and the atomizer , and -possibly - if I carry the thing around I do it with no battery inside ,

what is the next trouble or can-be extreme conditions that may incurr

Avoiding buying every damned shiny thing. :D

(Hopefully no bang.)

Good luck. :)

p.s. Also, avoid FL hurricanes — stay home! (Especially if you're a Floridian.)
 

bood

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so there is arguably nothing more then double check the list .
that is ok and something I can do ..

What I've figured out is that a safe battery that melts and a vented mod , can partially if not completely prevent an unwanted "explosion"

top of that to check for stability in the circuit i.e that +and- isolation ( atomizer and mod ) , and the circuit resistance , both measure as intended . I will measure them
 
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bood

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You're getting some very good advice and I like your approach.

About one of the most vexing challenges for new vapers is termination. Appreciating how important it is. By and large it constitutes one of the most common problems. Things like irregular points on thes tiny screws we use can cause disparity in contact and bam, you have a variation in resistance, overheating and oxidation at the contact causing further problems

I guess.. this can be both measured and seen while testing the build before vaping..or else ?
 

VictorViper

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I know of one story from a couple of years back when a member posted about their mech going into runaway on them. I think it was a hybrid mech, IIRC, and it was user error. That's the thing with mechs, it's (pretty much) always user error.

Having a checklist is a great idea when starting out, that way you don't gloss over something or neglect it for too long (maintenance is a big part of mechs). Some stuff is critical and you'll always need to be wary, other stuff happens over time and needs periodic care, but regular checking.

All that said, you'll find once you get going that while it's a lot to know, it's all very easy to deal with.
 

VictorViper

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I highly recommend you stick to simple round wire builds right now. The advice from Mac is sound, foundational knowledge that will give you the practical know-how to achieve whatever you like in vaping. [EDIT] You seem to be cool with geeking out on this stuff, and Mac's thread gets pretty heavy that way. Some fascinating stuff in there if you truly want to take the "magic" out of how all this stuff works.

I'm a fan of kanthal for plain wire builds. I'm just a fan of Kanthal in general. SS is interesting on a mech, but much experimentation left for me there. Nichrome has its place for me in my Claptons.
 

bood

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I'll go for Kanthal simpe builds , but if I have the time I will make up my mind on twisting and tryin some configurations...guess it can't explode on hands unless a thunder strikes me in the process and I link to some (unprotected) batteries , could try that build later when I'm cool enough; on the other hands the wire is long and it's likely that wire and other things are coming my way sooner; my buddy is also likely to give me some stuff, he yet wanted e propped to when I said him I'm gonna buy one mech for me .
 
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