Good starter kits? Pico?

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ddirtyvapes

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Well I'm glad you're a fan but I don't do anything remotely resembling teaching :) just puttering around the forums making comments....

As I kind of already said, I think the key for you with a first-time RDA is more making sure it's affordable, usable, and easy to build on versus any specific function. Even simple single coils are likely to outperform your current tank cloud-wise on a halfway decent RDA; that was certainly my experience when I first switched over and the Melo 3 is very good but not exactly phenomenal on that front. The RDAs I recommended aren't necessarily specifically cloud chasers, just relatively simple, good, RDAs. Probably the Velocity clone is easiest to build on besides the lack of single coil option and you'll run into the same deck a lot if you build, but there are plenty of options and not everyone is going to like everything. I actually don't care for the Velocity at very high wattages either, but frequently use it on the Pico. In general, I just tend to think until you're sure you like it, there's no point in getting an expensive and specific RDA unless you truly just have cash to blow. I would also agree the Sapor is a fine choice.

So, Velocity, maybe Twisted Messes V1, maybe Shuriken 22, maybe Sapor v1. Aren't the Apocalypse v2s 24mm?? Or no/ is there a 22mm version? Make sure to stay at 22mm or less for the Pico... maaayyyybbeeee 23mm (there aren't that many). Also MAYBE the Dovepo Bushido v1 if you could find it, also thought of BeyondVape's Mako or Mako War.

I might lean a little heavier on the Shuriken and the Twisted Messes v1 just because they can both do single coils, or else another single-coil capable rebuildable that no one has mentioned here yet. Velocity (clone) is definitely dual only and I *think* Sapor, too? Not sure about the Bushido v1, and there are certainly more than two RDAs that can run single, dual, or other coil configurations.
 
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Cf11

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Well I'm glad you're a fan but I don't do anything remotely resembling teaching :) just puttering around the forums making comments....

As I kind of already said, I think the key for you with a first-time RDA is more making sure it's affordable, usable, and easy to build on versus any specific function. Even simple single coils are likely to outperform your current tank cloud-wise on a halfway decent RDA; that was certainly my experience when I first switched over and the Melo 3 is very good but not exactly phenomenal on that front. The RDAs I recommended aren't necessarily specifically cloud chasers, just relatively simple, good, RDAs. Probably the Velocity clone is easiest to build on besides the lack of single coil option and you'll run into the same deck a lot if you build, but there are plenty of options and not everyone is going to like everything. I actually don't care for the Velocity at very high wattages either, but frequently use it on the Pico. In general, I just tend to think until you're sure you like it, there's no point in getting an expensive and specific RDA unless you truly just have cash to blow. I would also agree the Sapor is a fine choice.

So, Velocity, maybe Twisted Messes V1, maybe Shuriken 22, maybe Sapor v1. Aren't the Apocalypse v2s 24mm?? Or no/ is there a 22mm version? Make sure to stay at 22mm or less for the Pico... maaayyyybbeeee 23mm (there aren't that many). Also MAYBE the Dovepo Bushido v1 if you could find it, also thought of BeyondVape's Mako or Mako War.

I might lean a little heavier on the Shuriken and the Twisted Messes v1 just because they can both do single coils, or else another single-coil capable rebuildable that no one has mentioned here yet. Velocity (clone) is definitely dual only and I *think* Sapor, too? Not sure about the Bushido v1, and there are certainly more than two RDAs that can run single, dual, or other coil configurations.
Once again a great response from you. :)
So I've read about the "clones" twice now.
What exactly do you mean by clones?

Aren't they a bad thing?
I know that having clone batteries is bad and dangerous so why recommend clone rdas?
 

Cf11

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Well, all I can say is that I appreciate the kind words from both of you, I am very glad I am providing helpful information, and I am always happy to be of service :)

@Cf11 please let us know if you have additional questions/need other help.
At this rate If i don't exhaust you and know literally everything there is to know about vaping [emoji14]
Guide to become a vgod in a day.
Just ask @ddirtyvapes a lot of questions [emoji14]

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Cf11

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@ddirtyvapes

You deserve a medal for all this input. Remarkable. :)

Just to clarify for @Cf11 Apocalypse v2 is 24mm so won't fit Pico. I mentioned it as a big atty for a big mod.
I read just now that 24mms do fit the pico.
Could you confirm that?
Or maybe i just read it wrong.

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ddirtyvapes

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24mms will not fit on the Pico, certainly not the single battery Picos. There's a tiny chance they fit the Pico Dual, but I don't believe that was addressed. Frankly, even if you could fit a 24mm, I'd be a little concerned with how close it would end up to the battery which is only protected from the heat by that thin metal top, but I really just think it won't fit.

Sometimes that loud POP happens. Nothing to be particularly concerned about. I'm not sure precisely what causes it but I notice it most often after especially a tank with a stock head has been sitting for a while without getting vaped and has completely cooled down and then I pick it up and vape at a reasonably high wattage again.

"Clone" batteries and "clone" RDAs aren't really the same thing, and I'm not sure exactly what you mean by a clone battery. Some smaller battery companies rewrap cells made by other companies; if the company advertises the correct battery ratings, this isn't really an issue. Likewise, even if the company lies with the numbers but you know exactly what cell is in the wrap and it's a good one, it's OK from a safety standpoint, if an unsavory business practice. The real problem is when some companies rewrap other batteries or label their own with WAY over-inflated specs that ultimately mean nothing in terms of keeping yourself safe. It would be a lot to get into super-specifics in this post, but there are a lot of batteries out there that are labeled completely incorrectly in a way that could be seriously unsafe. But that's all I can think about in terms of a "clone" battery, which is not the same as a clone RDA. If you need recommendations on good batteries, just ask.

Clone RDAs are (usually) 1:1 copies of "authentic," original RDAs. They are, for all intents and purposes, straight up copyright infringement, usually from Chinese manufacturers, so some people have an ethical problem buying clones. They are often, but not always, clones of particularly expensive devices. For example, at least when it was new, the original, authentic Velocity was about $100 or maybe even a tad more. I got my clone for $20 and it works basically as well as the real thing. Clones are made with less expensive materials, in general are more likely to have flaws (the threads may not be as clean, the screws may be a bit funky), but you save a lot of money for what is usually a comparable experience.

There are some pretty darn decent clones, there are some terrible clones. The same can be said for authentics.

Personally, I don't usually recommend clones in general, but rather specific clones I have enjoyed firsthand or that I know are popular and considered to be particularly well-made for a clone. There are some very put-together clones that have an arguably superior build quality to some cheaper authentics. The Tobeco Velocity happens to be one of those, in my opinion. One of my other favorite clones was a "Lawless Steamboat" (Tugboat v2 clone) but I don't it's believe is available any longer and the build deck is far outdated. I don't have any others I'd necessarily recommend, myself.

Does that help explain it? I basically operate under the philosophy that it's usually better to buy authentic if/when you can afford it, especially when there are now PLENTY of reasonably priced, authentic atomizers/tanks/toppers. All other things being equal, though, an RDA is a hunk of metal. If I have the choice between spending $100 and $20 for close to the same thing, I will probably go for $20. Not everyone feels the same.
 
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Cf11

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24mms will not fit on the Pico, certainly not the single battery Picos. There's a tiny chance they fit the Pico Dual, but I don't believe that was addressed. Frankly, even if you could fit a 24mm, I'd be a little concerned with how close it would end up to the battery which is only protected from the heat by that thin metal top, but I really just think it won't fit.

Sometimes that loud POP happens. Nothing to be particularly concerned about. I'm not sure precisely what causes it but I notice it most often after especially a tank with a stock head as been sitting for a while without getting vaped and has completely cooled down and then I pick it up and vape at a reasonably high wattage again.

"Clone" batteries and "clone" RDAs aren't really the same thing, and I'm not sure exactly what you mean by a clone battery. Some smaller battery companies rewrap cells made by other companies; if the company advertises the correct battery ratings, this isn't really an issue. Likewise, even if the company lies with the numbers but you know exactly what cell is in the wrap and it's a good one, it's OK from a safety standpoint, if an unsavory business practice. The real problem is when some companies rewrap other batteries or label their own with WAY over-inflated specs that ultimately mean nothing in terms of keeping yourself safe. It would be a lot to get into super-specifics in this post, but there are a lot of batteries out there that are labeled completely incorrectly in a way that could be seriously unsafe. But that's all I can think about in terms of a "clone" battery, which is not the same as a clone RDA. If you need recommendations on good batteries, just ask.

Clone RDAs are (usually) 1:1 copies of "authentic," original RDAs. They are, for all intents and purposes, straight up copyright infringement, usually from Chinese manufacturers, so some people have an ethical problem buying clones. They are often, but not always, clones of particularly expensive devices. For example, at least when it was new, the original, authentic Velocity was about $100 or maybe even a tad more. I got my clone for $20 and it works basically as well as the real thing. Clones are made with less expensive materials, in general are more likely to have flaws (the threads may not be as clean, the screws may be a bit funky), but you save a lot of money for what is usually a comparable experience.

There are some pretty darn decent clones, there are some terrible clones. The same can be said for authentics.

Personally, I don't usually recommend clones in general, but rather specific clones I have enjoyed firsthand or that I know are popular and considered to be particularly well made for a clone. There are some very well-made clones that have an arguably superior build quality to some cheaper authentics. The Tobacco Velocity happens to be one of those, in my opinion. One of my other favorites clones was a "Lawless Steamboat" (Tugboat v2 clone) but I don't it's believe is available any longer and the build deck is far outdated. I don't have any others I'd necessarily recommend, myself.

Does that help explain it? I basically operate under the philosophy that it's usually better to buy authentic if/when you can afford it, especially when there are now PLENTY of reasonably priced, authentic atomizers/tanks/toppers. All other things being equal, though, an RDA is a hunk of metal. If I have the choice between spending $100 and $20 for close the same thing, I will probably go for $20. Not everyone feels the same.

I see the concern about the 24mms.
Makes sense.

So when i said clone batteries i meant fakes.
You know how there are fakes available for most of the batteries these days and everyone says you should be careful and not buy them.

I do have a single lg hg2 and i did just post a thread about it yesterday.
Wanted to know a way to find out if it's fake or not.
But couldn't upload because of the 1mb limit. I'll try again.

I understand that clones could be cheaper and I'm all for it. But don't you worry about the malfunction possibility because of them being made by a non authorized manufacturer?
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Cf11

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24mms will not fit on the Pico, certainly not the single battery Picos. There's a tiny chance they fit the Pico Dual, but I don't believe that was addressed. Frankly, even if you could fit a 24mm, I'd be a little concerned with how close it would end up to the battery which is only protected from the heat by that thin metal top, but I really just think it won't fit.

Sometimes that loud POP happens. Nothing to be particularly concerned about. I'm not sure precisely what causes it but I notice it most often after especially a tank with a stock head has been sitting for a while without getting vaped and has completely cooled down and then I pick it up and vape at a reasonably high wattage again.

"Clone" batteries and "clone" RDAs aren't really the same thing, and I'm not sure exactly what you mean by a clone battery. Some smaller battery companies rewrap cells made by other companies; if the company advertises the correct battery ratings, this isn't really an issue. Likewise, even if the company lies with the numbers but you know exactly what cell is in the wrap and it's a good one, it's OK from a safety standpoint, if an unsavory business practice. The real problem is when some companies rewrap other batteries or label their own with WAY over-inflated specs that ultimately mean nothing in terms of keeping yourself safe. It would be a lot to get into super-specifics in this post, but there are a lot of batteries out there that are labeled completely incorrectly in a way that could be seriously unsafe. But that's all I can think about in terms of a "clone" battery, which is not the same as a clone RDA. If you need recommendations on good batteries, just ask.

Clone RDAs are (usually) 1:1 copies of "authentic," original RDAs. They are, for all intents and purposes, straight up copyright infringement, usually from Chinese manufacturers, so some people have an ethical problem buying clones. They are often, but not always, clones of particularly expensive devices. For example, at least when it was new, the original, authentic Velocity was about $100 or maybe even a tad more. I got my clone for $20 and it works basically as well as the real thing. Clones are made with less expensive materials, in general are more likely to have flaws (the threads may not be as clean, the screws may be a bit funky), but you save a lot of money for what is usually a comparable experience.

There are some pretty darn decent clones, there are some terrible clones. The same can be said for authentics.

Personally, I don't usually recommend clones in general, but rather specific clones I have enjoyed firsthand or that I know are popular and considered to be particularly well-made for a clone. There are some very put-together clones that have an arguably superior build quality to some cheaper authentics. The Tobeco Velocity happens to be one of those, in my opinion. One of my other favorite clones was a "Lawless Steamboat" (Tugboat v2 clone) but I don't it's believe is available any longer and the build deck is far outdated. I don't have any others I'd necessarily recommend, myself.

Does that help explain it? I basically operate under the philosophy that it's usually better to buy authentic if/when you can afford it, especially when there are now PLENTY of reasonably priced, authentic atomizers/tanks/toppers. All other things being equal, though, an RDA is a hunk of metal. If I have the choice between spending $100 and $20 for close to the same thing, I will probably go for $20. Not everyone feels the same.
Oh and about the pop.
I don't vape a high wattage.
I always vape at 35w.
Find it just good enough for me.

Is that too high?
Just concerned about poping the mod/battery by doing something stupid that i shouldn't. [emoji14]

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ddirtyvapes

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There is definitely a possibility of a clone malfunctioning some way, but that is the reason I only go for well-reviewed clones and don't personally go for clone devices, just toppers. Rarely, at that. So in short, yes it is a SLIGHT concern... but if you aren't buying willy-nilly and focusing on clones that others have had good luck with, it really shouldn't be a deal-breaker. I don't like the idea of clone devices but lots use them and have had no problems. Others have, but people have problems with authentic devices, too.

I understand what you mean now about a clone battery; I guess I'm still considering that another "unadvertised rewrap" but they're not exactly the same. Very difficult to tell if a battery is fake from a photo unless there is a super obvious issue. Battery fakers have gotten VERY good. The best thing you can do is stick to reputable battery sellers. Even good sellers can sometimes get the wool pulled over their eyes. Personally, I ONLY buy from either IMRBatteries or LiionWholesale. Assuming that battery is authentic you're fine, but I realize that's not really your concern. Where did you buy it from?

You do vape at a high wattage :) I mean yes, I understand that you don't vape at 100W, and today that's high wattage. Back when I started vaping, "advanced vaping" included dripping into a disposable atomizer on a cigalike that put out 4-5W, and 10-12W was "high" (voltage, though, not watts then!). So you'll forgive me if I chuckle EVERY time I hear someone say "I don't vape high wattage, just 30+!" It's not just you :) And you're obviously right, 35W is very much mid-range in 2017... but it's sure high enough to cause that pop. If it's the pop I'm thinking of, it's not a problem at all. There are other "pops" that are more scary, but most of them would have already caused a catastrophic failure if that was the problem. I am assuming the pop came right from the coil, which again, can happen after cooling at any power but especially over 20W.

If you are comfortable and assuming your battery is a real HG2, 35W is definitely not too high for that coil. If your juice is extremely thick, you might not be able to bring it up as high as I said, but I've vaped those .5s at 60-65W regularly without burning... just made sure to use more like 35/65 VG/PG instead of Max VG juice.

What kind of juice ARE you using?
 

Cf11

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There is definitely a possibility of a clone malfunctioning some way, but that is the reason I only go for well-reviewed clones and don't personally go for clone devices, just toppers. Rarely, at that. So in short, yes it is a SLIGHT concern... but if you aren't buying willy-nilly and focusing on clones that others have had good luck with, it really shouldn't be a deal-breaker. I don't like the idea of clone devices but lots use them and have had no problems. Others have, but people have problems with authentic devices, too.

I understand what you mean now about a clone battery; I guess I'm still considering that another "unadvertised rewrap" but they're not exactly the same. Very difficult to tell if a battery is fake from a photo unless there is a super obvious issue. Battery fakers have gotten VERY good. The best thing you can do is stick to reputable battery sellers. Even good sellers can sometimes get the wool pulled over their eyes. Personally, I ONLY buy from either IMRBatteries or LiionWholesale. Assuming that battery is authentic you're fine, but I realize that's not really your concern. Where did you buy it from?

You do vape at a high wattage :) I mean yes, I understand that you don't vape at 100W, and today that's high wattage. Back when I started vaping, "advanced vaping" included dripping into a disposable atomizer on a cigalike that put out 4-5W, and 10-12W was "high" (voltage, though, not watts then!). So you'll forgive me if I chuckle EVERY time I hear someone say "I don't vape high wattage, just 30+!" It's not just you :) And you're obviously right, 35W is very much mid-range in 2017... but it's sure high enough to cause that pop. If it's the pop I'm thinking of, it's not a problem at all. There are other "pops" that are more scary, but most of them would have already caused a catastrophic failure if that was the problem. I am assuming the pop came right from the coil, which again, can happen after cooling at any power but especially over 20W.

If you are comfortable and assuming your battery is a real HG2, 35W is definitely not too high for that coil. If your juice is extremely thick, you might not be able to bring it up as high as I said, but I've vaped those .5s at 60-65W regularly without burning... just made sure to use more like 35/65 VG/PG instead of Max VG juice.

What kind of juice ARE you using?

So the velocity clone in your opinion is a "good" one?

I don't live in the USA(Assuming that's where you live) so I'm not aware of those sellers you mentioned.
I'm from india and vaping here is not very popular.
I bought it from a page that i found on Instagram called indianvapegarrage. They're apparently supposed to be one of the most expensive and authentic sellers here.
So i think i just have to believe that the one i have is authentic.

I use 70vg juice because as i mentioned before i like clouds.
And i believe more the vg, more the clouds(correct me if I'm wrong here).

10w was high in your time? Wow
When did you start vaping? 2010?

Also, What other "pops" did you mean?
 

ddirtyvapes

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Sorry, the "pop" I was referring to was more of a euphemistic catastrophic battery failure. Don't let me scare you. The Pico does have protections and you are doing your research. I can't be sure without being there but I am close to certain the pop you experienced is what I described and nothing to worry about.

You should look and see if either of the mentioned battery places do worldwide shipping, but if the place you are ordering from is reputable, then hopefully you will be okay. Remember that "more expensive" doesn't always mean better.

And the Velocity is one of the most cloned atomizers around, so many are probably good. I was referring to the specific Velocity clone made by Tobeco, a Chinese company, but sold in many places. I can't tell you whether or not they're sold in India, but online retailers such as GearBest or FastTech have worldwide shipping (for toppers or devices, I wouldn't personally buy batteries there.)

You are right that more VG=more clouds, but if your juice has too much VG it can be too thick for the coils of your tank to continue to wick and be wet. This is less of an issue with more modern tanks. The Melo coils should handle 70% VG fairly well, but it's something to consider. Even a 60% VG will produce plenty of clouds, but you're probably fine.

Yes, I did start vaping in 2010.
 
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Cf11

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Sorry, the "pop" I was referring to was more of a euphemistic catastrophic battery failure. Don't let me scare you. The Pico does have protections and you are doing your research. I can't be sure without being there but I am close to certain the pop you experienced is what I described and nothing to worry about.

You should look and see if either of the mentioned battery places do worldwide shipping, but if the place you are ordering from is reputable, then hopefully you will be okay. Remember that "more expensive" doesn't always mean better.

And the Velocity is one of the most cloned atomizers around, so many are probably good. I was referring to the specific Velocity clone made by Tobeco, a Chinese company, but sold in many places. I can't tell you whether or not they're sold in India, but online retailers such as GearBest or FastTech have worldwide shipping (for toppers or devices, I wouldn't personally buy batteries there.)

You are right that more VG=more clouds, but if your juice has too much VG it can be too thick for the coils of your tank to continue to wick and be wet. This is less of an issue with more modern tanks. The Melo coils should handle 70% VG fairly well, but it's something to consider. Even a 60% VG will produce plenty of clouds, but you're probably fine.

Yes, I did start vaping in 2010.
Well i don't think i have any more questions for you buddy [emoji14]
For now.

I'll be sure to check out for the velocity by tobeco.
Thanks for all the input and suggestions. :)
PS 7 years is a very long time to be doing anything. No wonder your answers are so great PROFFESOR [emoji14]
 
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Cf11

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if youre looking for an rba. the serpent mini might me a good starting point,at least for me it was my first rta. its a single coil rta, so the initial setup shouldnt be much problem.

and it's a 22mm device, sits flush on top of a pico.


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Great, now i have one rta and one rda shortlisted. :)
Looking forward to trying them given that i can find them.

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