Gurgling in Russian 91 % clone

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Mazinny

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I used this clone for a few weeks with perfect performance. The last two rewicks with cotton, i have been having non-stop gurgling which i can't fix. As far as i can tell i have been wicking in the same manner. I did have a problem with my mech, when it was firing for 10 minutes non stop in my pocket. Could this be the reason ? do ineed to change the coil ? is there something i need to do with the air flow ? Can't figure it out. No leaking, just gurgling. Vapor production is still great, and flavor is ok too, maybe a little diminished.
 

State O' Flux

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I used this clone for a few weeks with perfect performance. The last two rewicks with cotton, i have been having non-stop gurgling which i can't fix. As far as i can tell i have been wicking in the same manner. I did have a problem with my mech, when it was firing for 10 minutes non stop in my pocket. Could this be the reason ? do ineed to change the coil ? is there something i need to do with the air flow ? Can't figure it out. No leaking, just gurgling. Vapor production is still great, and flavor is ok too, maybe a little diminished.
After reading this a few times, it dawned on my that you have not built a coil for this yourself... have you? You're using the crap coil that came with the atomizer... yes?
I get that impression because you say you've re-wicked, and then you question the need to change the coil... which is a 5 minute deal, and something an experienced coil builder would do automatically - if you had a mech that was pocket firing for 10 minutes. :blink:

So there's that - but for now, lets pretend those odd coil comments don't exist, and we'll move on to the rest of it. This is a weird one.... and at first read, like Cloudz, I'd be inclined to think about the insulator myself.

Trying to visualize all the possibilities... to begin, gurgling is caused by juice in the air tube or sometimes the chimney tube - but either condition is usually temporary, once vacuum in the tank is adequate.
Only thing is, if you have gurgling, you usually have a bit of leakage out of the air port in the base to go with it, so... I'm still not inclined to lean towards any one particular issue.

Expanding on Cloudz theory... if the insulator got over-heated and the sealing surface was (temporarily) soft enough to be "compressed", there's a chance the positive block screw/air tube is loose, and there's a gap between the base and block... perhaps allowing another location for juice to enter the tube.
Another possible is a general air leak in the tank - usually the chimney o-ring - causing a flooding condition.

I'm going to stop guessing, because still... when taken as a whole, some elements of this issue don't make a lot of sense - that or I'm missing something. :laugh:
 

Mazinny

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no, i built the coil myself and it still looks perfect even after the pocket firing ( well after a dry burn anyway). I am not a super experienced coil maker, and yeah in retrospect i shouldve rebuilt automatically, but i didn't imagine the gurgling is due to the coil. Flavor is still fine. I build pretty good simple tensioned contact coils using 28 g kanthal, and i use them for a long time in my pt2 and aspire.

The insulator hasn't melted ( at least not completely ), but it doesn't sit flush with the post. There is a tiny space between the insulator and the base in the gap between the positive and negative post though. Not sure if this is normal.

And no there is no leaking out of the air flow hole.

I have washed it now and it is drying. I will build a new coil and wick again carefully. Should the part of the wick making contact with the coil be thicker, thinner or the same as thpart sitting on top of the juice chamber ?

Thanks for the responses.
 

CloudZ

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I would take the insulator out and inspect it. If it is damaged at all, that is a safety issue and may also be causing the gurgling noise (since air could be leaking past it when it normally shouldn't).

Other than that, make sure the air hole in the center post is lined up with the air inlet. I do this by inserting a small drill bit into the inlet, looking down from the top to make sure I can see the tip of it in there, then turning the positive pin on the bottom with a screwdriver all the way left, then all the way right, then leave the screw turned between these two limits. It wont turn very much since the drill bit will stop it. This is on a KFL clone, not sure if the R91 is exactly the same in this regard.

And for your cotton question, the wick should be the same thickness along its entire length. If you want more or less resting on the juice channels, trim it longer or shorter. I noticed that mine tends to gurgle or sometimes flood if I don't use enough cotton. I'd imagine that too much would restrict juice flow leading to dry hits.
 

State O' Flux

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but i didn't imagine the gurgling is due to the coil.
Most certainly. Although the wick materials and dimensions will have a bearing on this... if their isn't an adequate gap between coil and positive deck - about 1.5mm or better (in other words, not "resting" on the deck) - juice can transfer from coil to air tube in sufficient quantity to cause a perpetual gurgle, but not any appreciable leaking.
 

VaPreis

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Define "gurgling".

Because my kayfuns/taifun always have a slight "gurgle" sound, but it isn't excess liquid in the air tubes.....

It's the sound of delicious e-liquid being being boiled and vaporized for my pleasure by that rockin' coil I stuck inside of it!

If it only "gurgles" when you you're firing your mod, then you know that your coil rocks too. :vapor:
 

Dampfsucht

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If all else fails
Press the fire button and blow through the air intake hole. This will move the e-liquid back to the wick and burn off excess.
Also looks neat, like an old freight train stack! :D

I just tried this. Does look neat. Will remember this If I get the flooding gurgles. :vapor: Will blowing through the air intake hole while pressing the fire button eventually lead to too dry of a wick ie. burnt?
 
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