Hey, everyone, I searched on Google, but couldn't seem to find the answer to my specific issue. I'm super new to vaping, so please bear with me. I'm using an iStick 20w, with a Kanger Protank II. Awhile ago, when I was out and about, the tank started gurgling really bad, and just wouldn't hit. And then a bunch of the eliquid drained out, so I stopped hitting it. When I got home, I took it apart, did a thorough cleaning, and replaced the atomizer. I can't seem to get it to stop gurgling and not hitting very well now, and I have cleaned it and drained and refilled the tank twice. I'm super confused at this point, because I thought I was doing the right thing. I am also vaping at 3.6 volts, if that matters.
Gurgling problems
- Thread starter oithumperoi
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Sounds like your coil is either loose or the one of those tiny o-rings have given up its job and you've lost the natural vacuum in the tank. Did you change your coil after cleaning?
Yeah, that's what I meant by "changed the atomizer". Is that not the same thing? See, I'm such a noob. The part that I changed out has the wicks on it.
Have you tried raising or lowering you volts? I'm not familiar with your specific atty so just winging it here. Check seating and orings. Play with volts and air flow if adjustable. You can just blow juice out of af holes rather than emptying tank btw. Gurgling is generally a flooded coil. Youtube can help as well.
Take a kleenex, point the mod down, with the drip tip (mouth piece) toward the floor and blow into the drip tip with the kleenex around the air control (hole or slot - its been too long for me to remember what protank has). That should help clear the excess juice out of the coil...if it is flooded.
Several things can cause that, oith.
As mentioned, a loose coil/head/atomizer, or one with a bad o-ring will cause a loss of the slight vacuum that is needed to prevent leaks.
Too hard a draw can also pull too much juice into the head, resulting in flooding.
Check the o-rings on the tank as well. Haven't used the PT2 in a long time, but they used to come with a spare set.
To check the vacuum, fully assemble without filling, then cover all the air intake holes and draw. If you find you can actually draw, there's an air leak somewhere. If there's good resistance to the draw, it's likely ok as far as holding the vacuum.
Some tips on it here, scroll down a bit:
Kanger Protank 2 Pro Tank Glassomizer
As mentioned, a loose coil/head/atomizer, or one with a bad o-ring will cause a loss of the slight vacuum that is needed to prevent leaks.
Too hard a draw can also pull too much juice into the head, resulting in flooding.
Check the o-rings on the tank as well. Haven't used the PT2 in a long time, but they used to come with a spare set.
To check the vacuum, fully assemble without filling, then cover all the air intake holes and draw. If you find you can actually draw, there's an air leak somewhere. If there's good resistance to the draw, it's likely ok as far as holding the vacuum.
Some tips on it here, scroll down a bit:
Kanger Protank 2 Pro Tank Glassomizer
The protank needs a vacuum seal in order to keep it from flooding the coil and draining out the air intake. That is done via the O-rings. There should be an o-ring above and below the glass portion preventing air from getting in that way. Of course, if the glass is cracked even just a tiny bit, that can cause it to gurgle or leak as well. This picture should show you where the seals should be.
Second, and the most common, is the threading. You cannot crossthread anything, or it will break the vacuum seal.
Also, make sure there are three visible rubber (white) parts on the actual coil. The big rubber piece on the top, then there is a small white O-ring that seals the tip part of the atomizer, and the threads are what block the bottom part, but there is also a small white piece close to the very bottom. make sure those are present. If you look at this picture, make sure all the whiteish items are present.
Make sure the coil is on finger tight (do not over tighten), and the rest of the atomizer is finger tight. Don't over tighten anything, or it may leak as well.
I used to use two or three Protank II's all the time. If they're left sitting around and not being used for an hour or two then the liquid "will" work it's way through the silica wick and flood the coil to create the "gurgling" and leaking you describe. Or they just start leaking anyway. You could take off the chimney and re-wick it with some "Muji cotton", tricky though !. If you pack the right amount of wick in there it can slow down the leaking to a degree. But yeah, the best instant fix is to blow down the mouth piece and hold paper towel over the air vents to soak up the leaking juice.
I used to re-build my PT II coil heads. I've still got a bag full of rubber grommits and a few coil heads tucked away somewhere. Think i used 32g kanthal, 5 or 6 wraps, as i recall 2.5ohm, pretty delicate though those coils. Hard to re-wick so easier to re-build completely.
I used to re-build my PT II coil heads. I've still got a bag full of rubber grommits and a few coil heads tucked away somewhere. Think i used 32g kanthal, 5 or 6 wraps, as i recall 2.5ohm, pretty delicate though those coils. Hard to re-wick so easier to re-build completely.
Glad you solved your issue, and it sounds like things got flooded. If it happens again you may want to check your filling technique (it's sometimes overly easy to get a bit of e-liquid IN the chimney/tip area, which can lead to (it sometimes seems endless) gurgling and flooding. Make sure that you aren't getting e-liquid where you don't need it, although as you have seen, the fix is fairly simple.
If it gets worse or continues, at that point I'd tear down your atomizer (that basically means your tank, coil included) and check to make sure all 0-rings are seated where they should be, and that nothing is overtightened or not seated correctly and etc.
Best of luck
Anna
If it gets worse or continues, at that point I'd tear down your atomizer (that basically means your tank, coil included) and check to make sure all 0-rings are seated where they should be, and that nothing is overtightened or not seated correctly and etc.
Best of luck
Anna
Forgot to mention removing the chimney and placing a couple of 1mm silica strands on top of what's already there, replace the chimney and trim the ends to match the existing wick length. These were often referred to as "flavour wicks". They too will help prevent leaks as they will help fill the space through which the juice flows.
This is actually the best fix there is for the PT II.
This is actually the best fix there is for the PT II.
Blowing it out is the answer (above). Also roll up a piece of paper towel into a long straw-like thing and push it down the air tube to sop up excess liquid and condensation. (from the top...remove the mouthpiece first)
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