nice bro!.......just remeber to take a swab with alcohol and clean all of your connection points. youll be blown away at the increase in vape once your get any contaminants off it.
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Found these magnets that work pretty well. Started a new thread for them, but figured I'd post in here since you mentioned it.
Ring magnet, D7.5 x d5 x 1mm, Nd rare earth, N42
Awesome, thanks! I'm going to order a whole bunch.
EDIT: As it turns out, they're located not very far from me!
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The light weight switch on the HCigar version is an easy fix. I opened up the switch, stretched out that tiny little copper spring about twice its original length, re-inserted it, and now it's perfect!
Ok, so here's my Tobeco version, I ditched that horrible dull spring that sits between the 510 connection and replaced it with a brass piece of tubing I cut out so my kraken air holes line up where I want it to.. I did notice a lot more vapor production after I did this simple fix, this thing hits hard now! Only downfall is that you would no longer have a floating pin, doesn't bother me, I'll be leaving this setup alone!
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if you go back in this thread, youll find the fix for the button spring.stretching the spring doesnt work well as it is a piano wire spring and its not tempered very well.
I'm subscribed buddy lol I was just sharing my input onto what I did to make mine better for those who are experiencing problems with their spring..
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yea, youd think with the quality of the clones on this ( the good ones, not that fasttech junkie one) that they would have put a decent spring in the switch...LOL......
Are you talking about the Tobeco stainless clone from FT, or the Rainbow Heaven chromed brass clone, also from FT?
Received the Hammer magnets late last night. Installed them in three setups, and found that some switches do not get enough throw to function properly with 3 magnets. The pin isn't able to extend past the Delrin insulator in the switch, which prevents a complete connection. The difference is just a fraction of a mm, somewhere in the range of about 0.2mm, so it seems that this is just an issue with manufacturing tolerance. If your Hammer happens to be like this, you might be able to shim the pin against the button with a small washer so that you can get that standoff clearance.
For the switches that allow 3 magnets, I found that you can get varying levels of button weight depending on how you set it up. In order of lightest weight to heaviest weight:
- Original spring (lightest)
- Two magnets (marginally heavier than the original spring).
- Original spring, stretched out (significantly heavier than the first two setups)
- Three magnets (marginally heavier than the original spring stretched out to twice its original length. This is subjective, and the stretched spring could potentially be stronger if you stretched it further.)
- Two magnets plus stretched spring - to me, this yielded the perfect setup for how I like it. While not as heavy as my Nemesis switches, it's significantly heavier now, and the magnetic feel is great
For the switches that allow 3 magnets, I found that you can get varying levels of button weight depending on how you set it up. In order of lightest weight to heaviest weight:
- Original spring (lightest)
- Two magnets (marginally heavier than the original spring).
- Original spring, stretched out (significantly heavier than the first two setups)
- Three magnets (marginally heavier than the original spring stretched out to twice its original length. This is subjective, and the stretched spring could potentially be stronger if you stretched it further.)
- Two magnets plus stretched spring - to me, this yielded the perfect setup for how I like it. While not as heavy as my Nemesis switches, it's significantly heavier now, and the magnetic feel is great
I have a brass Chi-You that I got an AIOS for... swapped the rings to merge the look of the stainless AIOS to the brass mod, and that was the look of the top cap that was left over.
I used the Chi-You top cap, because when I attached that Kayfun to the device, I'd somehow turned the centre post, which caused the positive block inside it to touch down on the negative, creating a short. I didn't check the short before connecting the Kayfun to the Hammer, and in retrospect, I should have. When I attached it, I fired it but there was no ignition. I started to feel heat build in the switch, so I removed the atty, and noticed the 510 connector's spring loading was no longer present. So I opened up the 510 connector, and saw a burned out coil on the spring that was also compressed. When I tried to stretch it back out, it snapped at the burn point, which rendered the 510 connector useless. My HCigar rep is sending me a replacement spring now, so thanks for that... but, it just goes to show where potential burnout points are on the Hammer in the event of a short. Even running ultra sub-ohm builds could stress that part at the exact same location.
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That's good info to have. Thanks.
In other news, my Hammer clone (and Kayfun Lite clone) has arrived in Singapore and is being prepared for shipment! Hopefully in the next few days it will be on a plane to the U.S.A.
I've been committing a vaping cardinal sin. I've been using a ProVari with no backup device for almost a year. If I like the Hammer, I might be swimming in mech mod clones by this time next year.
In other news, my Hammer clone (and Kayfun Lite clone) has arrived in Singapore and is being prepared for shipment! Hopefully in the next few days it will be on a plane to the U.S.A.
I've been committing a vaping cardinal sin. I've been using a ProVari with no backup device for almost a year. If I like the Hammer, I might be swimming in mech mod clones by this time next year.
These are fun to play with. If your extension doesn't screw in right on the battery side, make sure you put it in the ring *first*. Also be careful with setting the kick directly on top of the tube. Check your button spring temp after doing this I use a dummy battery inside a 490 or 650 tube on the atty side as an extension, with the kick.
I use a dummy battery inside a 490 or 650 tube on the atty side as an extension, with the kick.
Does anyone know if the Origin top cap will fit on the fasttech Hammer clone? Also, I'm thinking that it should be possible to fix the voltage drop of the included top cap by simply modding the center pin. It's just about getting a proper connection between the battery tube and the atomizer base, right? Not feeling like ordering another mech mod (other than the Origin, which I plan to set up as a hybrid with the Aqua RBA) simply to get a top cap (if it turns out that the voltage drop on the Hammer is unbearable). Also, would be great to get the included top cap to work properly.
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It will not fit.
I haven't been getting any voltage drop on my HCigar Hammer. I can't say the same for the Tobeco. The Chi You top cap will fit, so that's one way to get a direct connection. Especially if you get the HCigar Chi You with its silver plated contacts.
Sorta guessed that. Thanks for the confirmation. I've ordered the Fasttech Hammer and I think it's a Tobeco. Might order a chi you top cap, if I find it necessary. BUT, if changing out the top cap will fix the voltage drop problem then simply changing the pin should do, right? The rest of the top cap really has no bearing? Would really like to keep the Hammer looking like it does out of the box (even though it's a clone
). Of course, I haven't gotten the Hammer yet so there might be no problem, which might in turn be a disappointment as I've started looking forward to fiddling with it Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk
Sorta guessed that. Thanks for the confirmation. I've ordered the Fasttech Hammer and I think it's a Tobeco. Might order a chi you top cap, if I find it necessary. BUT, if changing out the top cap will fix the voltage drop problem then simply changing the pin should do, right? The rest of the top cap really has no bearing? Would really like to keep the Hammer looking like it does out of the box (even though it's a clone
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Depending on which version of the Fasttech Hammer you got (they have two), it could either be Tobeco or Rainbow Heaven.
You could also change the pin. Somewhere earlier in this thread, someone mentioned replacing the entire floating pin/spring assembly with a solid brass pin. That would also be a good solution. You'll just need to be able to find tune the height for your atty, if your atty doesn't have an adjustable pin.
The rest of the Hammer's 510 connector base should be SS (the HCigar one is 304 SS... I don't know about the Tobeco and RH version), so connectivity resistance shouldn't be a major issue there.
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