The pin in the Tobeco isn't the problem. The spring in the 510 cap is. You should be able to find a replacement brass spring at your local hardware store. Failing that, you can use the top cap from a Chi You, King, or Astro clone.
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so, the spring that connects both sides of the 510.... pin.
Is this the fix that people are getting springs from Napa Auto Parts for?
Is this the fix that people are getting springs from Napa Auto Parts for?
That's my understanding. If you disassemble the "top cap/510 connector" there is a stainless spring in there. There is another spring in the switch. Both are garbage and need to be replaced with brass springs. This is the voltage drop fix for the Tobeco version (along with a through cleaning and polishing).
Sounds like it should be easy to fix the voltage drop issues then. Thanks for the information!
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FT has them, about to put my order in. They have 2 kits, one with and another without the battery ext. tubes. They just got it in weeks ago. HYPED!
Kemosabe:11426262 said:It's about 23mm at the atty base. My 22mm attys are a tiny bit narrow but look great.
A few things. The mod comes with 18500 and 18650 extension tubes, but it's really made to be an 18350 mod. First off, as you'll see, it looks dis proportioned in anything larger than 18350 mode. Which I expected to be the case.
Further, you'll likely want flat top 18350s as my button top ones are too large for it to not auto fire. So that's a bit disconcerting but what can you do. I've just been keeping the switch mechanism unscrewed slightly to accommodate.
Other than that no complaints so far. No voltage drop without load. It is made by tobeco. Engraving is of good quality. 510 pin floats but it a tiny bit crunchy. The threading is good. Tiny burs existed which worked themselves out in a few revolutions. Button is decently smooth. A bit crunchy but nothing to cry over. The unit is incredibly solid. It's no lightweight pv folks! Heavier than my chi you clone and provari.
OOOOOOOooooo. Love that!
I hav 2 ithaka clones, ones on a magneto clone and the other is waiting for the hammer. I want to get the kraken clone to pair with it also. Any try to kraken and hammer?
pulp:11487060 said:What is the name of that drip tip and where can I order it? LOL Sick!
HOLY CRAP that's the exact setup I was going to do! Love it love it love it so freakin pro!
I have a Hammer clone coming from FT. Vapestar has a video review on YouTube, but with his Tobecco Hammer he took the 510 connect and firing button off a King clone and threw them on. Looks great! So I go in, and ordered a King clone, but the Statue of Liberty one because it has no markings on the firing button. But later on, I read that the caps won't swap with the Chi You clone. Did I make a boo boo? If so, I guess I will be stuck with a tacky looking dripper mod.
If the clone won't swap on the caps let me know and I'll buy the Statue of Liberty clone off ya. 
been looking at that for a while too and I haven't pulled the trigger. This hammer does look a lot like an inhaler with an 18650 battery and a dripper on it lol!
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been looking at that for a while too and I haven't pulled the trigger. This hammer does look a lot like an inhaler with an 18650 battery and a dripper on it lol!Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
FT has flat chi you top caps for like five bucks. Silver contacts. I've been thinking of getting one but honestly I just use my AIOS hybrid on it and it works smashingly.
My tobeco hammer top cap gets 0.00v drop without load. but that doesn't mean the atty doesn't provide a bit of a drop. AIOS solves that right quick. Plus I don't like the the way the AIOS tank mode looks on the chi you so win win.
My tobeco hammer top cap gets 0.00v drop without load. but that doesn't mean the atty doesn't provide a bit of a drop. AIOS solves that right quick. Plus I don't like the the way the AIOS tank mode looks on the chi you so win win.
Here's a little more clarification on the spring issue. This was posted by Pariah.Scion on the FastTech Forums.
Semi-Brass Spring-Loaded Center Pin
"If this is the same one that I played with recently, then it will need a very serious modification.
The Brass Spring Loaded Center Pin is really made of of two small brass "cups" that don't actually connect to each other, they are only connected by the thin metal spring that pushes them apart (one upward toward the center pin of the atty and one downward toward the brass tube on the inside of the hammer) and makes this device spring loaded for the battery and the atty. The problem is the same as was with the AGI. That spring is too thin of metal and too little metal material to carry the amps from sub-ohm builds--probably even some a little above 1.0 ohms. I didn't think to take pictures, but I think you guys get the idea. If not, I'll try to type out how it looks:
._
| | <-- Top Brass Cup (pushes up towards the center pin on the atty.
<
< <-- Spring that pushes the top "pin/cup" up and the bottom down.
<
|_| <-- Bottom Brass Cup (Pushes down toward the brass body of the hammer.
Just like in the AGI, when my buddy told me that on some atty's it wasn't firing, I took the whole thing apart and found the same problem. The spring will heat up from too much amps being pushed through (the same reason you would get electrical fires on insulated copper wire) and once heated it will have bent the spring in whatever place it was when heated. The problem is that the spring then stays in that position (what ever height it was when it was heated) and thus it does not push the brass "cups" up and down, respectively. I temporarily fixed the problem by putting two springs in, but he's running 1.1 ohms and I think that sub-ohms would create the same problem even with the two springs. I'm almost certain that the fix used on the Elite (sold here on FT) would work (the copper wire wrapped around the springs, but again, it's a small space and so less copper must be used). However, I am sure that a simple fixed brass or copper pin would absolutely fix the problem. The issue is finding one or having one made that will fit snug. At that point, you'll have a floating center pin.
Hope this helps all the vapists out there."
Edit: This applies to the Tobeco version only as far as I know.
Semi-Brass Spring-Loaded Center Pin
"If this is the same one that I played with recently, then it will need a very serious modification.
The Brass Spring Loaded Center Pin is really made of of two small brass "cups" that don't actually connect to each other, they are only connected by the thin metal spring that pushes them apart (one upward toward the center pin of the atty and one downward toward the brass tube on the inside of the hammer) and makes this device spring loaded for the battery and the atty. The problem is the same as was with the AGI. That spring is too thin of metal and too little metal material to carry the amps from sub-ohm builds--probably even some a little above 1.0 ohms. I didn't think to take pictures, but I think you guys get the idea. If not, I'll try to type out how it looks:
._
| | <-- Top Brass Cup (pushes up towards the center pin on the atty.
<
< <-- Spring that pushes the top "pin/cup" up and the bottom down.
<
|_| <-- Bottom Brass Cup (Pushes down toward the brass body of the hammer.
Just like in the AGI, when my buddy told me that on some atty's it wasn't firing, I took the whole thing apart and found the same problem. The spring will heat up from too much amps being pushed through (the same reason you would get electrical fires on insulated copper wire) and once heated it will have bent the spring in whatever place it was when heated. The problem is that the spring then stays in that position (what ever height it was when it was heated) and thus it does not push the brass "cups" up and down, respectively. I temporarily fixed the problem by putting two springs in, but he's running 1.1 ohms and I think that sub-ohms would create the same problem even with the two springs. I'm almost certain that the fix used on the Elite (sold here on FT) would work (the copper wire wrapped around the springs, but again, it's a small space and so less copper must be used). However, I am sure that a simple fixed brass or copper pin would absolutely fix the problem. The issue is finding one or having one made that will fit snug. At that point, you'll have a floating center pin.
Hope this helps all the vapists out there."
Edit: This applies to the Tobeco version only as far as I know.
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If the clone won't swap on the caps let me know and I'll buy the Statue of Liberty clone off ya.
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I must say, the Liberty got some pretty good reviews. The higher register of stars is what made me pull the plug on it, but the reviews about not being able to swap parts with Chi You clone scared me, since I read that Chi You clone parts can go on the Hammer.
The Hammer cracks me up in 18650! But I saw somewhere you can put the 510 connect on the end of the battery and put the switch on top? Did I see right?
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This is possible, but you'll need some kind of spacer to gap the connection between the switch and the battery tube. As it is, there is a gap that can't close the circuit. Some people have used magnets, but I'm wary of this idea... if you bump the hammer and the magnet slides off, it could slip between the battery tube and the body, closing the circuit and creating a short.
How exactly are you guys disassembling the 510 connection? I can't figure out how to on my HCigar. At first glance it seems like it can't be disassembled.
Edit: Nevermind. I found out you could pop out the delrin by pushing the upper pin downwards.
Edit: Nevermind. I found out you could pop out the delrin by pushing the upper pin downwards.
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Correct. I used a pair of pliers to pull the Delrin housing out from the inside. It's just press fit in there.
Yeeeeah, I think I will keep it in 18350 mode. I have plenty of batteries for that, and I plan on keeping it a homebody. I have a VTR coming for out and about.
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Tried to find some brass springs today but no luck. A roll of brass wire here is about 50 SEK (more than $7) so I might just as well order a Chi You top cap. Or, I might try using a piece of acoustic guitar string. Those things are brass, I think (EDIT: bronze actually, which is less conductive than brass. Nickel plated electric guitar strings might be better)
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I'm still waiting on my hammer to arrive, so I don't know the size of the spring, but wouldn't cutting a few loops off of a retractable pen spring, or would the spring from a mini flashlight work?
this is exactly what i was going to ask. ive been pulling apart pens to check their springs. theyve all appeared to be steel springs so far. i may try one to see if its any better.
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