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Looks kind of garish, but I'm not a fan of Hawaiian shirts.
The Arnold only looks "normal" on a 28650 mod, if that tells you anything.
Got my Hammer and kayfun in, both Tobeco. I'm more impressed with the kayfun, to be honest. The Kayfun/Hammer combo I was looking forward to isn't working out so well. When I have everything put together, the Kayfun's airhole is on the bottom, right where it's most comfortable to hold the hammer.
So I go to take a hit, and about half the time it's like trying to suck a golfball through a garden hose until I adjust my grip. Annoying to say the least.
I can say that while I won't be giving up my ProVari, this is the beginning of a beautiful friendship between me, mechs, and Kayfuns.
Gotta collect them all!
The Kayfun/Hammer combo I was looking forward to isn't working out so well. When I have everything put together, the Kayfun's airhole is on the bottom, right where it's most comfortable to hold the hammer.So I go to take a hit, and about half the time it's like trying to suck a golfball through a garden hose until I adjust my grip. Annoying to say the least.
I can say that while I won't be giving up my ProVari, this is the beginning of a beautiful friendship between me, mechs, and Kayfuns.
Gotta collect them all!
Try the kayfun hammer combo in 650 mode with the battery inline with the atomizer like this:
Its much easier to hold.
Just drop either a fuse or a magnet to extend the switch contact and you're golden.
Its much easier to hold.
Just drop either a fuse or a magnet to extend the switch contact and you're golden.
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Don't have either one of those...yet. I'll add it to my list of things to buy though. Thanks!
Why doesn't FT sell fuses? I'd buy 10 of them.
Why doesn't FT sell fuses? I'd buy 10 of them.
I used a faucet repair washer, they come in different diameters & thickness, pick one that almost fill the opening , screw on the button assembly to test the thickness of the washer, if too thick, file it down ( I filed mine to a curvature so it rides over the battery tube).
Fill the hole in the middle with a piece of coiled copper wire , make sure it doesn't auto fire . You are done.
Or, tape 2 cents will bride the gap nicely, just make sure the edges are completely covered with tape to avoid shorts.
If you use the rubber washer method, flare the opening on both surfaces so the coiled wire will stay inside without a chance to move vertically . The washer will be about the same thickness as 2 cents .
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I tried a normal kitchen magnet...with predictable results. I know I have some rare earth magnets...somewhere. Looks like I'll be trying the pennies trick tomorrow.
I decided to measure the voltage drop on my freshly cleaned (stock) hammer clone today, and had a drop of only .25 volts. Color me impressed. After the first day, vapor production increased, presumably due to the various parts seating in and making better contact as rough spots in the threads started clearing up with repeated use.
I decided to measure the voltage drop on my freshly cleaned (stock) hammer clone today, and had a drop of only .25 volts. Color me impressed. After the first day, vapor production increased, presumably due to the various parts seating in and making better contact as rough spots in the threads started clearing up with repeated use.
Just got my Hammer clone from Fasttech. The FT kick fits, using the 18500 tube between the mod and the top cap, but a bit of the threads are showing (doesn't bother me, much). Hits great (with a Kayfun clone)! Don't notice acting that would indicate the considerable voltage drop that's been reported, but perhaps that's due to the kick (?)
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Nah, if it's clean and you are not trying to run low sub ohms, you shouldn't see much voltage drop at all. Running a kick would hide any voltage drop, too.
I should perhaps try to run it without a kick as well, just to check, but I don't want to set it down long enough to take out the kick
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Congratulations,glad you like your new toy. I got my mine 2 days ago from Ft. now I have 2 Hammers , and eyeing their brass version to complete the trio. Any one here ordered brass version? any feedback, pros or cons?
What kind of battery life are you getting, with an 18350 battery? With an Efest imr 800 mAh (more like 700 mAh) kicked to 15w, with an 1.8 ohm Kayfun, I just got six hours (though I did take a short nap during that time). With my SVD, same battery, topper, and settings, I get about 4 - 4 1/2 hours, so pretty good with the Hammer. Any major differences between kicked and not kicked?
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Pretty sure running a kick2 in my hammer killed the kick. Now when I fire it, I just hear subtle clicks. It worked fine through several batteries, then just cut out. I thought I read in here that using a kick in the hammer can damage it. Not really sure why, but I'm a believer now.
I heard it killed battery life...never heard anything about it killing Kicks.
I used the two pennies and tape method (I also looked at rare earth magnets at the local HW store; $15 for 6, yikes!) works a treat, thanks.
I read in this thread at least one other user stating his kick making ticking sounds, he removed it with no ill effect.
I tried mine, Sigelei clone of the Kick I. inside the short tube, but the 510 connector would not go (tube too short)
So I used the long tube with a connector made of wide head brass screw and nut inside plastic insulator made of eye drops bottle.
The connector with insulator go first to make contact with the battery tube (+ve) , then the Kick finally the atty connector. this way, despite adding extra length to the setup, it avoid excessive unintended stress on the Kick.
I see no reason the Kick should fail when used with the Hammer ? but at least 2 users reported it.
Sorry about your dead Kick, I would clean the contact, let it set over night . electronics have a mind of their own.
if changing out the top cap will fix the voltage drop problem then simply changing the pin should do, right? The rest of the top cap really has no bearing? Would really like to keep the Hammer looking like it does out of the box (even though it's a clone
Some 5/32 copper tubing is your best friend....
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fear not. that clicking sound is usually the result of running the kick on a battery that does not have enough voltage to power the kick. the kick shuts down when your batt is too low (usually 3.2-3.4v under load, which is around 3.5-3.7 without load depending on heft of load)
The kick works fine for me (though just two days in), and it only seems to do the clicking sound when the battery's low.
I removed the steel (I guess?) spring and replaced it with some brass "stringies" I cut from a soldering tip cleaner. Seems to hit a bit harder. I believed that my SVD worked better, until I noticed that the kick only goes up to 12 (sucks that it doesn't do 15w. They might as well have made it go to 11...). When the SVD is set to the same watts the hit is very similar. Also tested it without a kick. With a fully charged 18350 the hit is very similar to the SVD set to 4.2v, perhaps a bit better (used the same Kayfun with a 1.8 ohm coil on both devices). Doesn't appear to be any noticeable voltage drop.
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I removed the steel (I guess?) spring and replaced it with some brass "stringies" I cut from a soldering tip cleaner. Seems to hit a bit harder. I believed that my SVD worked better, until I noticed that the kick only goes up to 12 (sucks that it doesn't do 15w. They might as well have made it go to 11...). When the SVD is set to the same watts the hit is very similar. Also tested it without a kick. With a fully charged 18350 the hit is very similar to the SVD set to 4.2v, perhaps a bit better (used the same Kayfun with a 1.8 ohm coil on both devices). Doesn't appear to be any noticeable voltage drop.
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Got mine from FT today. The Tobeco one. Horrible horrible voltage drop. As in... horrible. I cut a M5 brass screw somewhat to size and used that instead of the spring-pin-thingy that was in there. The screw doesn't screw in, but it's about the right size. Will sit loose, but not so loose it will wobble sideways. No big deal as it will be kept in place by an atty anyway. Now it's really nice... and heavy!
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