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Got my Tobeco Hammer yesterday, and I did notice the vape a bit weak with my kayfun 3.1 clone @ 1 Ohm as compared to my k100 mech. So first thing I tried was stretching the 510 spring. It's easy to access, just put some pressure on the nylon sleeve around the floating pin with your thumb and twist. Be careful not to cross-thread it on reassembly. When compared to my k100 now with the same battery (efest 18350), I can no longer tell the difference in vape quality. Completely anecdotal/subjective evidence because I don't have a clue how to measure voltage drop, so YMMV, but I'd recommend trying that before you go buy or cannibalize your Chi parts.
Also, those of you having issues with efest 18350s fitting tight in the tube, I'd recommend peeling the efest sticker (NOT the red shrink wrap) off the battery, and clean the sticky off with alcohol or Goo-Gone. DON'T use a sharp object to do this, fingernail should handle it fine. Mine slide in n out like butter now. I've seen some folks are taking out the nylon sleeve that comes inside, which works fine too, just be aware that you're defeating a safety feature by doing so. That sleeve prevents the battery from shorting out on the tube in the event that the shrink wrap on a battery is damaged and goes unnoticed.
That being said, I got mine "blemished" from 101vape for $34.99, and I'm thoroughly pleased with it. Bad@$$ looking little mod, nice and heavy, could break out of my car with it if through the glass was my only way out. Or brain someone with it if it became necessary. It's perfect for lower-profile vaping with an 18350. I'm not a fan of the L-shaped 18650 mode, so I'll just have to keep my sub-ohm coils off of it. A nice little diversion while I wait for my 26650 Big Nasty to arrive!
Also, those of you having issues with efest 18350s fitting tight in the tube, I'd recommend peeling the efest sticker (NOT the red shrink wrap) off the battery, and clean the sticky off with alcohol or Goo-Gone. DON'T use a sharp object to do this, fingernail should handle it fine. Mine slide in n out like butter now. I've seen some folks are taking out the nylon sleeve that comes inside, which works fine too, just be aware that you're defeating a safety feature by doing so. That sleeve prevents the battery from shorting out on the tube in the event that the shrink wrap on a battery is damaged and goes unnoticed.
That being said, I got mine "blemished" from 101vape for $34.99, and I'm thoroughly pleased with it. Bad@$$ looking little mod, nice and heavy, could break out of my car with it if through the glass was my only way out. Or brain someone with it if it became necessary. It's perfect for lower-profile vaping with an 18350. I'm not a fan of the L-shaped 18650 mode, so I'll just have to keep my sub-ohm coils off of it. A nice little diversion while I wait for my 26650 Big Nasty to arrive!
so I been playing with my hammer, and have 2 quesitons (And if they alreay have been answered, I'm sorry)
Firstly, I got a kick, and use the smaller extension on the 510 connector side to hook it up. I have to leave the tube somewhat half way uscrewed, and screw the top cap half way to make it fit, but it works like a champ.
is it supposed ot be flush though? Or am I gonna have ot get used to the gaps?
the second question is I have seen the hammer in "lite" mode, where the button and the 510 connector are swapped. How would you do this? the switch doesnt seem to reach, would I need to do any modification?
thanks in advance!
Firstly, I got a kick, and use the smaller extension on the 510 connector side to hook it up. I have to leave the tube somewhat half way uscrewed, and screw the top cap half way to make it fit, but it works like a champ.
is it supposed ot be flush though? Or am I gonna have ot get used to the gaps?
the second question is I have seen the hammer in "lite" mode, where the button and the 510 connector are swapped. How would you do this? the switch doesnt seem to reach, would I need to do any modification?
thanks in advance!
I dropped a 2cent fuse under the switch to get it to fit.
You can use two pennies with edges taped or magnets too.
OK. I just got my Hammer Mod in today from 101vape. It's awesome but I wanted to post a warning for those who are thinking of buying this.
REMEMBER TO GET FLAT TOP BATTERIES OTHERWISE YOU WONT BE ABLE TO SCREW THE PARTS IN ALL THE WAY FLUSH.
Also, since mine didn't come with instructions on which way to insert the battery. THE + END GOES IN FIRST.
Sorry for the caps.
I just thought this was an important message to everyone.
REMEMBER TO GET FLAT TOP BATTERIES OTHERWISE YOU WONT BE ABLE TO SCREW THE PARTS IN ALL THE WAY FLUSH.
Also, since mine didn't come with instructions on which way to insert the battery. THE + END GOES IN FIRST.
Sorry for the caps.
I just thought this was an important message to everyone.
Heh not one threading on my Hammer is flush fitting... or even close. Still love it. Usually got an Aga T2 on it. Being a gennie, I have to use a positive pin that is exactly long enough to make the wick face down when vaping it. Wick facing down and flush fit? I just can't be bothered to nitpick a positive pin to that degree. It's an in-house mod for me anyway. Not like it's going anywhere to be oooh-ed and aaah-ed by others
Heh not one threading on my Hammer is flush fitting... or even close. Still love it. Usually got an Aga T2 on it. Being a gennie, I have to use a positive pin that is exactly long enough to make the wick face down when vaping it. Wick facing down and flush fit? I just can't be bothered to nitpick a positive pin to that degree. It's an in-house mod for me anyway. Not like it's going anywhere to be oooh-ed and aaah-ed by others
Same here.
Most batteries leave gaps.
Except I rock mine out and about from time to time.
Usually casual days, when I'm not in crowds.
Honestly, it's such an eye catching chunk 'o' steel, everyone asks about it.
Doesn't take long for that to become annoying
/)
In my Hammer (fasttech, Tobeco) flat top 18350s sit perfectly, but flat top 18650s are too short. They rattle, but do fire if you press the switch just the right way.
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Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk
I recently received a tobeco version. Flat top batteries leave just a slight gap.. I wouldn't have really noticed if I didn't pop the battery out to see how it looks without a battery installed.
I'd really like to see a locking ring mod for the switch. It is a really dense piece of metal, but I enjoy the feel of it in my hand. The only time I prefer a tube mod now is when I'm driving. I don't even consider putting it in my pocket with a battery in it. I got my magnets in on the same day I received it, so I just used the spring to see how it felt..it immediately found a new home in the box it came in.. But even with magnets for a switch, there isn't much to pressing it..especially when you compare it to the super strong magnets of a magneto or something similar.
I mainly use my kayfun's with M-tanks on it, but I'm really digging how it looks with the 3d dripper on it.
I'd really like to see a locking ring mod for the switch. It is a really dense piece of metal, but I enjoy the feel of it in my hand. The only time I prefer a tube mod now is when I'm driving. I don't even consider putting it in my pocket with a battery in it. I got my magnets in on the same day I received it, so I just used the spring to see how it felt..it immediately found a new home in the box it came in.. But even with magnets for a switch, there isn't much to pressing it..especially when you compare it to the super strong magnets of a magneto or something similar.
I mainly use my kayfun's with M-tanks on it, but I'm really digging how it looks with the 3d dripper on it.
I'm digging how you say the 3d looks on it. I've got my eye in that atty for sure. Care to snap a photo of the 3d hammer?
Ordered my clone from fast tech on the 25th of January, showed up today in California. Just thought I'd throw out my experience so far with the mod. None of my button top batteries fit, all my flat tops fit fine. The spring in between the floating center pin is not the ....ty spring I was reading about this unit shipping with, mine shipped with a brass spring and I am not experiencing any voltage drop. Also, when the unit arrived, I immediately cleaned it with alcohol, and it actually stripped the black paint off the button and the top cap (which I actually dig ), so fair warning... if you like the black paint, do not hit the button or 510 cap with alcohol. Also, the brass tube that is inside of mine actually has the vent holes line up with the stainless body.
I wanted to run this mod with the 18650 in line with the atomizer, to do this, I swapped the button cap and the 510 cap. Then I went to home depot and picked up a pack of "Super Magnets" (8mmx3mm) and some 3/8" shrink tubing. Put magnet in shrink tubing, shrink, trim top and bottom so only edges are covered, drop under button, fires great. Make sure to check the button screw on arrival, mine showed up extremely loose.
Topped with a Prometheus clone dual coil@ 0.4 ohms loaded with bobas... Fantastic vape.
), so fair warning... if you like the black paint, do not hit the button or 510 cap with alcohol. Also, the brass tube that is inside of mine actually has the vent holes line up with the stainless body. I wanted to run this mod with the 18650 in line with the atomizer, to do this, I swapped the button cap and the 510 cap. Then I went to home depot and picked up a pack of "Super Magnets" (8mmx3mm) and some 3/8" shrink tubing. Put magnet in shrink tubing, shrink, trim top and bottom so only edges are covered, drop under button, fires great. Make sure to check the button screw on arrival, mine showed up extremely loose.
Topped with a Prometheus clone dual coil@ 0.4 ohms loaded with bobas... Fantastic vape.
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Button top 350's should work fine in the Hammer. If you screw the SS ring onto the switch first, and then screw that onto the body, you won't get the gap. You can also take a dremel and grind down the little nub inside the brass tube to help.
Finally got my Hammer to work in 18650 reversed.
Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk
Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk
Anyone checked out the back-slapping bro-club hammer (no clones allowed) thread? http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/e-cigarette-apv-reviews/502031-hammer-kato.html
They all seem to want to run their hammer's in fugly configuration. They sure take pretty pictures though.
My stance on clones is pretty well known at this point, but I'll repeat it anyways. Clones are free advertising for the originals, and are sold to people who wouldn't have bought the original anyways. In fact, some people are so impressed with the clone, that they end up purchasing the original anyways. They only time clones hurt the original manufacturers is when said manufacturer spends a quarter million on equipment but doesn't cough up a couple grand to patent his/her device. (Steamboy/Stormrider anyone?)
ProVari, ZAP, and Super-T Manufacturing don't seem to have Chinese mod makers copying their devices...I wonder why?
They all seem to want to run their hammer's in fugly configuration. They sure take pretty pictures though.
My stance on clones is pretty well known at this point, but I'll repeat it anyways. Clones are free advertising for the originals, and are sold to people who wouldn't have bought the original anyways. In fact, some people are so impressed with the clone, that they end up purchasing the original anyways. They only time clones hurt the original manufacturers is when said manufacturer spends a quarter million on equipment but doesn't cough up a couple grand to patent his/her device. (Steamboy/Stormrider anyone?)
ProVari, ZAP, and Super-T Manufacturing don't seem to have Chinese mod makers copying their devices...I wonder why?
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