View attachment 170636
When you wrap the positive end around the post and twist it (over/under/over/under) back towards the wick, then cut it off, it will avoid the hot spot.
Thank you for the trick, eHuman! It works great!
View attachment 170636
When you wrap the positive end around the post and twist it (over/under/over/under) back towards the wick, then cut it off, it will avoid the hot spot.
Bad, I watched a few videos on wick rolling and coil wrapping before I bought my rba. I ended up combining what I felt was the best of them all. I am still using the the very first wick and coil that I made from the materials included with the AGA-T, and haven't yet touched the supplies I bought to go with it. The included SS mesh is not big enough to make a solid wick (and I I want to try that next) so I rolled it around a 1mm rod tightly, and was able to fit it into the 3/32" drill bit wrapped coil I made.
You can find plenty of vids on youtube, but here are the general methods I used:
(Four methods to battle top coil hot spots are "twisted lead", "L kink", "washers on post", and "bend wick to positive post". I will describe twisted lead method).
Coil:
.................
Mesh:
.................
I have to keep my tank fill screw off to avoid vapor-lock.
If all done properly You will get plumes of vapor, no metallic taste, but very little flavor.
It takes a tank or two for the wick to break in and flavor to come through like a champ.
If you taste metal, you either have a wicking problem or a hot spot.
I did have to learn the "Genny tilt".
anybody still having probs with hotspots on the top coil should try this, just loosen the tension on the nuts a little, sounds weird but honestly works....while washers will work as well anyone looking for a temp solution tried this after watching a vid of rip trippers on the did and it works everytime.
Thanks for the insight V, I am by no means an expert, just shared what I did on my first build that worked for me. I am well open to advice on perfecting the craft.I've had a number of PM's popping up this week about what I think of the drill-bit-method
Thanks for the insight V, I am by no means an expert, just shared what I did on my first build that worked for me. I am well open to advice on perfecting the craft.
I'm still vaping on that first coil/wick now. I want to put your advice to use on the next coil and had planned on a solid wick next. Your results are what I'm looking for, including not having to leave the fill screw off..
Question:
(Even though I don't have an oxidation issue) When you say, "-Oxidize the seam of your mesh very well before rolling your mesh, and carefully fold the seam over and re-oxidize."
I'm not fully getting the picture on this. Do you mean pre-oxidize, then roll, the re-oxidize? Not understanding "seam".
I fold the mesh inward at the end of the roll so there are no frays.
I have not been pre-oxidizing the mesh but will do that.
I don't have a torch but use my gas stove, works charms.
I understand your coiling method pretty good.
Thanks for the tips, please elaborate on "seam" terminology.
The "extra screw hole you mention IS the negative contact for this set up. The post with the hole inside is used for negative contact when using silica or cotton as a wickEDIT: One thing I noticed, is that ericska used the extra screw-hole as his negative, while I've been using the little tower with the hole in it to put my negative side of the wire through. Would that make a difference, since it's so much farther away from the wick?
The "extra screw hole you mention IS the negative contact for this set up. The post with the hole inside is used for negative contact when using silica or cotton as a wick
Bad, I watched a few videos on wick rolling and coil wrapping before I bought my RBA. I ended up combining what I felt was the best of them all. I am still using the the very first wick and coil that I made from the materials included with the AGA-T, and haven't yet touched the supplies I bought to go with it. The included SS mesh is not big enough to make a solid wick (and I I want to try that next) so I rolled it around a 1mm rod tightly, and was able to fit it into the 3/32" drill bit wrapped coil I made.
You can find plenty of vids on youtube, but here are the general methods I used:
(Four methods to battle top coil hot spots are "twisted lead", "L kink", "washers on post", and "bend wick to positive post". I will describe twisted lead method).
Coil:
1. 3/32" drill bit was largest that I had that would fit in wick hole, use largest you have available.
2. (Before placing bit in wick hole) Wrap wire around solid shank end using even, snug tension and keeping your loops very close together. (It is easier to spread them than to compress them later to fine tune the fit). If you are right handed wrap counter clockwise.
3. Take the drill bit off, meter the coil, reinsert drill bit (using even tension, add or remove coil to suit.)
4. Place drill bit with coil inside tank (I placed fluted cutting end in tank so I was working with the solid shank end, depends on how long your bit is, but don't let the coil sit on the cutting edge while working).
5. while holding drill bit steady, pull negative lead to opposite side of screw (should be coming off right side of bit to left side of screw) making an "S", wrapping back around next to the drill bit, tighten negative.
6. Take positive end coming off right side of bit, to left side of positive post making "S".
Here is where it takes practice or finness; Tightening the positive nut will pull everything tight. If it is too tight you will have problems getting your bit back out without stressing the wire.
7. Carefully tighten positive and with remaining wire, pass it over and under the lead between the bit and the positive post so it forms a twisted section (see pic in post 67) leading back to coil.
8. With the side of a needle and your thumb nail, make sure coil loops are even.
9. Remove drill bit and check resistance. Dry burn coil at about 8w and look for hot spot/ even glowing. If everything is ok, dry fire the coil 3-4 times to allow it to stiffen up.
Mesh:
1. If you use the included mesh roll a hollow wick, If you want to jump straight to a solid wick use a piece 3.5 - 4 inches long, depending on your actual coil diameter, and how tight you roll it. (It is easier to cut off a 1/4" if you find your wick too fat than it is to deal with your wick not being fat enough)
2. Roll mesh folding the back edge inward before you finish to eliminate possible shorted frays later.
3. Roll/roll/roll tighten tighten tighten.
4. Using my gas stove I do the three burn oxidation then coat with PG or VG and burn three times, then check with meter in various spots to ensure a high resistance.
5. When the wick is able to be placed inside the coil without difficulty (twisting motion helps) and will stay where ever you put it you are good.
Note: THE KEY TO HAVING NO HOT SPOTS ALONG THE LENGTH OF THE COIL IS HAVING THE COILS BARELY TOUCHING THE WICK.
This is why the drill bit method works so well over wrapping it directly on the wick. You are fitting a round rod into a circle, not wompiness into gobllygook (leaving varying spaced gaps all along the coiled wire)
6. If the wick is too big or too tight in the coil it will cause shorts/ hot spots and you will have a hard time removing and putting it back in without dinging your coils.
7. If the wick is too loose it can drop to the bottom of the tank and/or cause shorts due to the coil to wick gap.
8. Put your wick in all the way to the bottom and back it off 1-2mm.
9. Dry burn and check for even heating. A good coil will heat from the center coils first then out to the edge coils.
I have to keep my tank fill screw off to avoid vapor-lock.
If all done properly You will get plumes of vapor, no metallic taste, but very little flavor.
It takes a tank or two for the wick to break in and flavor to come through like a champ.
If you taste metal, you either have a wicking problem or a hot spot.
I did have to learn the "Genny tilt".
Thanks V, I think I am going to give it a go tomorrow and not wait for this set up to "need" replacing.
So as long as I:
Keep the seem to the center,
Work out the seam so it doesn't change the profile of the wick,
Get the wick nice and round,
Then hand wrapping on the wick is the best way to get uniform contact, which in turn can eliminate some of the issues before they manifest?
Oh my! What have I got myself into?
This sounds terribly complex. Way over my head.
eHuman, thanks for all of that effort.
i have to agree with the ninja on this, i think i have seen more issues of hotspots and shorts with this method. i also believe that the reason is not enough contact of the wick from coil. anything that is new and is suppose to be better i will try it, and have tried this drill bit thing quite a few times. sometimes it does work, but it takes so much more of an effort. it seems to be much more inconsistant to me. whenever i wrap a coil the traditional way, it works everytime and takes seconds to do. especially if your using 32g wire, which i dont, but this wire moves alot more to start compared to a thicker wire and if you are just inserting the wick into a pre-made coil it may be ok for a short time, but then the wire tends to move a little. thats all you need for a hotspot. coil tension is a big key and this drill bit idea to me doesnt give a consistant tension. this is just an opinion, and what i personally have found, if this method is working for you thats all that matters and you should stick with it. granted you can make some pretty coils though, but the wick doesnt care.
Oh my! What have I got myself into?
This sounds terribly complex. Way over my head.
eHuman, thanks for all of that effort.
Not complex, just over detailed, I don't know where you are starting from
HAH! I cant believe that worked. I have an aga-s that I just received in a trade. It is too small for any washers I have. couldn't get that top coil right. This trick actually worked. Its not pretty but it got the job done. Thanks!400 mesh will wick 100% VG, 500 mesh will wick 70/30 PG/VG fine.
This is what I did to avoid having to bend my wick on the AGA-T+:
View attachment 170636
When you wrap the positive end around the post and twist it (over/under/over/under) back towards the wick, then cut it off, it will avoid the hot spot.
Oh my! What have I got myself into?
This sounds terribly complex. Way over my head.
eHuman, thanks for all of that effort.