We're also looking at two other locations in ohio. Presently we have the New Philadelphia and the Columbus store. But hoping to add two more before the end of November 
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-Rob
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The majority of my family lived up in Toledo/Sylvania and a good portion still do. I on the other hand stayed in the SW side of Ohio. NW Ohio will not be touched this year But the good news is there's only two months left in this year. So we shall see where next year takes us
But the good news is there's only two months left in this year. So we shall see where next year takes us The majority of my family lived up in Toledo/Sylvania and a good portion still do. I on the other hand stayed in the SW side of Ohio. NW Ohio will not be touched this year
Lima? Anywhere on the I-75 corridor? Take pity, please.
While New Philadelphia isn't that far away, I'd love to see you guys set up a store some time in the future near Akron/Canton. Being disabled, I can't make the drive to the store in New Philly.
Couple of questions, been out of vaping for two years now, long story, and I'm wanting to get back into it, I have an older BB I was fortunate enough a member here gifted me, VERY nice guy!
Anyway, looking around on your site I see you sell a new spring for the BB, I have the old spring, how much, as best you can define it, gain will I get from this? (I looked and couldn't find anything on it)
How much, either throat hit or longer life, can you expect switching to IMR batteries in a BB?
Thank you!
Anyway, looking around on your site I see you sell a new spring for the BB, I have the old spring, how much, as best you can define it, gain will I get from this? (I looked and couldn't find anything on it)
How much, either throat hit or longer life, can you expect switching to IMR batteries in a BB?
Thank you!
If the spring is stainless, then it's the old one. If it's copper looking then it is the new one If you have the new one, no sense in picking up another unless it has some corrosion on it. Typically wiping it down will remove it, the IMR batteries will perform better than standard 14500's because of the higher output. You'll notice a slight increase in performance from the spring, but not like jumping from 3.0v batteries to 4.2v
If you have the new one, no sense in picking up another unless it has some corrosion on it. Typically wiping it down will remove it, the IMR batteries will perform better than standard 14500's because of the higher output. You'll notice a slight increase in performance from the spring, but not like jumping from 3.0v batteries to 4.2v Thank you, it's the stainless spring in mine then, it's silver through and through! I'll have to get on ordering the new version then.
I may have to order a couple of the IMR's to see, but it doesn't sound like a big improvement is gained.
Thank you for the reply!
I may have to order a couple of the IMR's to see, but it doesn't sound like a big improvement is gained.
Thank you for the reply!
Depends on what ohm atty/carto/thing you're using. If it's a lower resistance then you might be approaching the max discharge rate of a regular 14500. for example at 4 volts with 1.5 ohms you're drawing about 2.6 amps? which should easily be provided by an IMR.
Thanks Quick1, this is what I was thinking! I think a 2.5ohm atty is about as low as a normal 14500 can provide. They average at 900mahs, I haven't researched what the IMR's are capable of yet, I'm slacking, sorry! But I'm thinking of a tank, or uber large carto to run on the BB to get back into it.
I'm not interested in messing with carto's again! It's messy, slow and they don't last near long enough in my opinion! I'm wanting to outfit this to be as efficient as I can, most juice, most battery life, most vapor in as small as a package as I can. I know it's asking a lot of this size battery, but I figure I may as well try!
Does this help to clear up my questions some?
I'm not interested in messing with carto's again! It's messy, slow and they don't last near long enough in my opinion! I'm wanting to outfit this to be as efficient as I can, most juice, most battery life, most vapor in as small as a package as I can. I know it's asking a lot of this size battery, but I figure I may as well try!
Does this help to clear up my questions some?
My AW 14500s are 750 mah and they're rated for max discharge rate of 1C? (I forget). At 2.5 ohm you're drawing about 1.6 amps so that would be 2C. I tend towards stuff around 1.5 ohms so the 14500s kind of sag a bit. An IMR of the same capacity wouldn't last as long between charges but you would be getting full power while it did and not be stressing the battery. I sort of remember that usually IMRs are rated at something like 5C and up? I think the AWs are 6C and somebody makes one at a whopping 9C? or something ridiculous.
So... if the rated max discharge rate of your regular 14500 is sufficient, an IMR won't make any difference. If not then it would.
So... if the rated max discharge rate of your regular 14500 is sufficient, an IMR won't make any difference. If not then it would.
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I want to say it's 8C, but we are splitting hairs on that one!
Maybe I've got it backwards, but I'm thinking the lower the Ohm, the more load it puts on the battery, not the other way? The less resistance the more load on the battery, the more, the less, am I wrong here? The lower the load, the closer you come to a direct short?
It's date in the lay, and I may very well have it backwards, it's been a day or two!
Maybe I've got it backwards, but I'm thinking the lower the Ohm, the more load it puts on the battery, not the other way? The less resistance the more load on the battery, the more, the less, am I wrong here? The lower the load, the closer you come to a direct short?
It's date in the lay, and I may very well have it backwards, it's been a day or two!
Correct: Ohms law is usually written I = V/R
I = current (usually in amps)
V = voltage
R = resistance (load)
(below is all "sort of", "kind of", maybe -- I'm too lazy to look it up)
Battery capacity is usually a number of milli amps for 1 hour.
A fully charged 750mAh battery delivering a 750 mA current will go from fully charged to discharged in 1 hour.
That number (rate of discharge) is also called 1C
So with the above battery (assuming Li-Ion):
Fully charged will have a resting voltage of 4.2v
If you connect it in a circuit with an atty that has a resistance of 2.5 ohms you get I=4.2/2.5 --> it's drawing 1.68 amps
1.68/.750 = 2.24 --> you're discharging that battery at 2.24C
So if the battery specs say the max discharge rate is 1C then you're probably stressing it pretty well.
What happens (I think) is that (more so after you exceed the max discharge rate) the battery's internal resistance goes up significantly. Ohm's law is still true, I = V/R, but R has increased in the battery so some of that juice is going into heating the battery instead of your your low resistance atty coil. or you trip the protection circuit if it has over discharge rate protection. It's not quite as bad as it seems since we're kind of "pulsing" the battery. on, off, on, off, ... so it gets some rest and recovery between bursts. Max discharge rate covers continuous draw.
Now if that 750mAh batter was an IMR with a max discharge rating 8C then it should handle a continuous discharge rate of 6 amps.
Using that 2.5 ohm atty continuously on you would be getting full wattage at the coil and would drain the battery in a little less than 1/2 hour.
I'm sure some of the above completely wrong but that's sort of the general idea. With an IMR you might get better performance (hotter) out of your 2.5 ohm atty. depends on a lot of stuff like how long you tend to hold the button down taking drags and stuff like that.
I = current (usually in amps)
V = voltage
R = resistance (load)
(below is all "sort of", "kind of", maybe -- I'm too lazy to look it up
)Battery capacity is usually a number of milli amps for 1 hour.
A fully charged 750mAh battery delivering a 750 mA current will go from fully charged to discharged in 1 hour.
That number (rate of discharge) is also called 1C
So with the above battery (assuming Li-Ion):
Fully charged will have a resting voltage of 4.2v
If you connect it in a circuit with an atty that has a resistance of 2.5 ohms you get I=4.2/2.5 --> it's drawing 1.68 amps
1.68/.750 = 2.24 --> you're discharging that battery at 2.24C
So if the battery specs say the max discharge rate is 1C then you're probably stressing it pretty well.
What happens (I think) is that (more so after you exceed the max discharge rate) the battery's internal resistance goes up significantly. Ohm's law is still true, I = V/R, but R has increased in the battery so some of that juice is going into heating the battery instead of your your low resistance atty coil. or you trip the protection circuit if it has over discharge rate protection. It's not quite as bad as it seems since we're kind of "pulsing" the battery. on, off, on, off, ... so it gets some rest and recovery between bursts. Max discharge rate covers continuous draw.
Now if that 750mAh batter was an IMR with a max discharge rating 8C then it should handle a continuous discharge rate of 6 amps.
Using that 2.5 ohm atty continuously on you would be getting full wattage at the coil and would drain the battery in a little less than 1/2 hour.
I'm sure some of the above completely wrong but that's sort of the general idea. With an IMR you might get better performance (hotter) out of your 2.5 ohm atty. depends on a lot of stuff like how long you tend to hold the button down taking drags and stuff like that.
We're on the same page now! I know it as _E
IxR
Same thing,
E, energy, or volts
I, current
R, Resistance
Same thing, different teachers!
Calculating it at 1.5ohm I get a load of 2.8
2.5ohm is 1.68
3.5ohm is 1.2
To simplify this, all you need is voltage divided by ohms, and you get current draw.
.
IxR
Same thing,
E, energy, or volts
I, current
R, Resistance
Same thing, different teachers!
Calculating it at 1.5ohm I get a load of 2.8
2.5ohm is 1.68
3.5ohm is 1.2
To simplify this, all you need is voltage divided by ohms, and you get current draw.
.
Quick question about my Silver Bullet (~2 months old?).
I seem to have to do the button-jab a few times a day to get it to fire. I was wondering if this was normal, or perhaps a symptom of a bad button.
Battery: AW IMR 18650, AW IC 18650, NCR 18650B
Atomizer: AGA T2 @ .9 ohms (main for this device), DCT @ 1.5 ohms, SCT @ 1.8 ohms, Dripping atty's, etc...
Thanks in advance.
I seem to have to do the button-jab a few times a day to get it to fire. I was wondering if this was normal, or perhaps a symptom of a bad button.
Battery: AW IMR 18650, AW IC 18650, NCR 18650B
Atomizer: AGA T2 @ .9 ohms (main for this device), DCT @ 1.5 ohms, SCT @ 1.8 ohms, Dripping atty's, etc...
Thanks in advance.
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I haven't had this problem with my Silver Bullet, and I've had mine for about a year. Hopefully Chad or Rob will be along and offer some tips for your switch.
I've used an AGA T2 on my SB, too.
It is not normal and seems the button will need replaced. It sucks to be a part of the 2%
. Did you submit a ticket already?Chad
I apologize if this is the wrong forum for this question but was curious as to when the Kick 2 would be back in stock(rough estimate). I am signed up for the alert but was curious if it was a week or so away or more like a few months away. Thanks!
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