Having some trouble...

[Josh-Horrocks]

Hey, new to the forum but having a bit of trouble after just starting to re-build in my Billow V2 rta, battery is the eleaf istick 40w
I'm trying to build a coil at around 1ohm so that i can then dual this to achieve an overall 0.5ohm build. Using 26g kanthal wire, I have tried wrapping the coil between 6 and 12 times around a 2.0 bit on the UD coil rig, however each time I then insert this on to the deck, and read the ohms with my battery, they read between 0.06 and 0.09 ohm. I have used an online calculator to work out how many wraps are required however they always read between these two ohms, and the display shows the atomizer low display.
Any help appreciated
Thanks, Josh.

 

[TheotherSteveS]

Do you have the istick set to power/VW mode??

 

[Josh-Horrocks]

yes not using the temp control mode at all. Have done previously but only with temp control coils in the KangerTech Subtank Nano

 

[TheotherSteveS]

so you should be around 1ohm with 9 wraps around a 2mm bit of kanthal a1 right? Have you tried just mounting one coil and seeing what that says?? Maybe post a pic of the build on the deck?!?!?

 

[roxynoodle]

Yeah, something isn't right. Are you sure its not ni200 wire?

 

[TheotherSteveS]

Yeah, something isn't right. Are you sure its not ni200 wire?

That did occur to me also....Its in the right ball-park for what OP is seeing...

ps. now then missy, havent you got your own brand new Roxy super-atty to be testing?!?!

 

[roxynoodle]

That did occur to me also....Its in the right ball-park for what OP is seeing...

ps. now then missy, havent you got your own brand new Roxy super-atty to be testing?!?!

I think I've maxed out testing when I ran out of power . It can vape over 200W. How much more I may never know since that was all the power I had. Now I'm just enjoying it.

 

[TheotherSteveS]

I think I've maxed out testing when I ran out of power . It can vape over 200W. How much more I may never know since that was all the power I had. Now I'm just enjoying it.

Wow!!!! Hope you make your own juice lol!!! Knowing you, you probs have some crazy quad clapton build in there...I'll check out your thread!! Cool

 

[roxynoodle]

I do, thankfully diy.

 

[Clydde26]

Sounds like ni200 wire that you are achieving those results.

 

[DaveP]

I'm beginning to wonder if my Smok Koopor Plus 200W has a glitch in temperature control. I vape it mostly with a 1.6 ohm 28ga Kanthal coil and it's a wonderful vape. The sizzle sounds like my 800hz Provari and the vape is smooth and tasty.

I've tried it with Ti and SS 316L. It's hot and noisy/crackly even at 300 degrees in TC mode. At 200 degrees it vapes hotter than I want, crackles loudly, and goes into over temp cutoff, which is understandable at that temp. I couldn't imagine going to 400 degrees or more. On Ti or SS 316L it vapes fine in wattage mode using those same coils.

I've used the stock and suggested TCR constants, so it should be maintaining accuracy in controlling the temp. In Ti mode the TCR is 0.00350. In SS mode the TCR is 0.00088.

Specs say that it will operate in TC mode from .08 to 3.00 ohms in TC mode and .1 to 3.00 ohms in wattage mode.

 

[Kloudz]

Wrap 2 coils both at 6 wraps with 26g kanthal and you should have around a .4 ohm coil.

 

[Shawn Hoefer]

I'm beginning to wonder if my Smok Koopor Plus 200W has a glitch in temperature control. I vape it mostly with a 1.6 ohm 28ga Kanthal coil and it's a wonderful vape. The sizzle sounds like my 800hz Provari and the vape is smooth and tasty.

I've tried it with Ti and SS 316L. It's hot and noisy/crackly even at 300 degrees in TC mode. At 200 degrees it vapes hotter than I want, crackles loudly, and goes into over temp cutoff, which is understandable at that temp. I couldn't imagine going to 400 degrees or more. On Ti or SS 316L it vapes fine in wattage mode using those same coils.

I've used the stock and suggested TCR constants, so it should be maintaining accuracy in controlling the temp. In Ti mode the TCR is 0.00350. In SS mode the TCR is 0.00088.

Specs say that it will operate in TC mode from .08 to 3.00 ohms in TC mode and .1 to 3.00 ohms in wattage mode.

I'm having similar issues. Seems the device is fine with the stock values, but ignores custom TCR values. I get a decent vape with a Ti or SS316 coil, but lit the 6%#=_€\ on fire with a SS 430 set to .00138 ...

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[Light Seeker]

I don't have a kooper, but have noted on both my cuboid & istick that if I roll a tight microcoil with stainless or nickel it's suceptable to hot spots & throws TC way off. So I roll loose coils with no problems.

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[MMW]

@Josh-Horrocks, are the coils touching the chamber walls?

 

[Btsmokincat]

Hey, new to the forum but having a bit of trouble after just starting to re-build in my Billow V2 RTA, battery is the eLeaf iStick 40w
I'm trying to build a coil at around 1ohm so that i can then dual this to achieve an overall 0.5ohm build. Using 26g kanthal wire, I have tried wrapping the coil between 6 and 12 times around a 2.0 bit on the UD coil rig, however each time I then insert this on to the deck, and read the ohms with my battery, they read between 0.06 and 0.09 ohm. I have used an online calculator to work out how many wraps are required however they always read between these two ohms, and the display shows the atomizer low display.
Any help appreciated
Thanks, Josh.

Can you post a picture of your build? I'm leaning with the "it might be nickel" crowd but MMW could be right. The Billow V2 (my favorite tank) has a very tight build deck.

 

[vapdivrr]

Hey, new to the forum but having a bit of trouble after just starting to re-build in my Billow V2 RTA, battery is the eLeaf iStick 40w
I'm trying to build a coil at around 1ohm so that i can then dual this to achieve an overall 0.5ohm build. Using 26g kanthal wire, I have tried wrapping the coil between 6 and 12 times around a 2.0 bit on the UD coil rig, however each time I then insert this on to the deck, and read the ohms with my battery, they read between 0.06 and 0.09 ohm. I have used an online calculator to work out how many wraps are required however they always read between these two ohms, and the display shows the atomizer low display.
Any help appreciated
Thanks, Josh.

I have found, at least with contact coils, that their final resistance doesn't occur until they have been fired and pressed. A newly wrapped contact coil ' s resistance will be quit a bit lower ( because it's really shorting out) straight from wrapping, so to get its working resistance (like what you might see in a calculator ) it needs to be fired and played with, which will eliminate the shorts and the resistance will increase. Hopefully that was sort of your question, I wasn't quit sure

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[vapdivrr]

Also you may want to check the amp limit on the istick, although you may think it could run as low as a .4 ohm coil, there are other limitations to said device. I don't own an istick, but it seems like a rinky dink mod to be running dual coils so close to its low resistance cut off.

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[Light Seeker]

Using 26g kanthal wire, I have tried wrapping the coil between 6 and 12 times around a 2.0 bit on the UD coil rig, however each time I then insert this on to the deck, and read the ohms with my battery, they read between 0.06 and 0.09 ohm.

You have a short. Perhaps coil touching wall of your atty.

I routinely wrap dual 26g kanthal coils for a total 0.5Ω to use on a istick 40 (wife's adv). Mod works fine with it.

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[Light Seeker]

To ensure your atty, mod, or 510 connection isn't hosed, attach it to your istick without a coil and fire. Should read 'no atomizer'. Anything else, you have a problem with either your mod or atty.

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