Please Be very carful with the rba section. It doesn't create a good connection and it can short out. This has happened twice to me. One of those times I was taking a drag while it shorted and wire basically exploded in my mouth. I tried a titanium build and it happened then I did SS build and same thing. It always said check atty on my vt200 but on my vs200 it worked to a degree if you like inhaling metal. Look at the pin on your crown and you should see how it doesn't stick out at all. When u put a stock coil it pushes the pin out a tiny bit but when u put the rba on it barley doesn't stick out enough I think. It was working on my SXK flask but it gave very odd results. I started a thread last night on the general discussion area. It's called ? About shorting coils.
HCigar VT200
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The fix I found was to remove rba and then push the pin back in towards the tank . Then reinstall the rba. U will notice that the pin gets pushed back out when u tighten rba. That way u will know for sure that it's touching rba firmly. Should be good to go.
Hopefully u guys get what I'm trying to say if not let me know and I can further assit
I get what you mean and that was the first thing I tried yesterday. All it did when you put on the mod was push back up inside the 510. I can't believe that taste and sound when the wire shorts out. Or whatever it's doing lol.
Not sure what u mean floating but It's pressed in there with some kind of insulator. I've had to do it with mine. Seems to work ok now.
Yeah burnt metal Def sucks.
I was telling u too push the pin up into the threads toward tank. And let the rba push it out where it wants it.
Only other thing I can suggest is check the post for wire that might touch the rba cap. They left no room for the cap to slide on with out touching . The slightest stray wire will make the coil short and that will cause ur problem
If the pin moves up and down in an insulator it's considered floating, a fixed pin doesn't move as it's either screwed or press fit into metal. This floating design is terrible and should be done away with.
Yeah on the first build I thought that may be the problem but I have a good pair of flush cutters and I usually feel if the wire is a problem when I put the cap on. My second build there was no way the wire could touch since I wrapped around the screw so the wire couldn't touch. My wife said when it happened it sounded like a pig grunting. Lol
Yeah I figured that what u meant. But I did not want to assume. But yeah it push in with the insulator. I had to push my pin up into the threads and then install rba to push pin out a little. Works great. But I have seen a short from the wire secured by the screw was a hair to long and rubbing on the outer case causing a short. Hopefully u get it straight because it does work great with ti. I haven't taken the crown off either of my mods. I got ni200 in one and rba with ssv .4 ti. In the other . Once this ni coil burns out I'm replacing it with another rba running ti wire. I been hooked on this ti stuff for the last week and ni200 just isn't the same since.
I beleive it does, I had purchased 2 rba heads opened other one and put a nickel build in and no check atomizer message.
Maybe defective rba head? Milled a little too short
I'll try one more time but I really just don't trust it anymore. Even with stock coils I was hesitant last night wondering if it would screw up with them too. I'm assuming it wouldn't but that would be my luck.
That's all I needed to know, I had been thinking about getting it but no way. The Zephyrus is the same way and it's not only bad for getting rock steady ohm readings it will also short out if screwed down too tightly on a device without a spring loaded 510. Not a big deal on regulated but can be catastrophic on a mechanical, I know it happened to me on a Stingray but I caught it in time.
I will not purchase another atomizer with a floating center pin.
Yeah I thought it was the rba being milled to much also. When I used it on my flask it was giving these crazy readings then no readings on vt200 then big problem on vt200.
Hey I've got a question for you folks. I was told by someone (on Facebook no less) that you can use a 2 amp zip charge on the VT200. He said it's "built into the chip set". He said you can with all DNA 200's and Vaporshark and Lavabox only advertise the option on there's because it's a selling point. Truth?
I do believe it's built into evolv's board but not equal to all boards, just VS and the lava box. Still searching for the answer myself on what determines 1 or 2 amp charging. What's evolv doing to the board/firmware etc.
Should it not be gold plated stainless steel threading?It looks like 1st info about SS 510 upgrade. I hope some confirm it bit more clearly.
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