HCigar VT200

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Netranger

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Oct 14, 2015
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That's odd because if you put .0045 it should not say check atomizer unless you put a very high number in the place of it. All it's doing is adjusting the resistance by the amount you put to make TC especially more accurate. It's the mods internal resistance, I just find it odd that it said check atty to you. What atomizers did you try when it said that?
It was a ni 200 crown,a tfv4,and a subtank .
 

ufaiq

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Aug 6, 2015
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Yesterday evening my vt200 serial number 0147 died after 2 months of use. Returned to the shop I purchased and they give me a brand new vt200 serial number 11965. Noticed that the contact is different, not sure exactly if there are new revision to the newer batch. Hopefully someone could shed some light on the matter. Thank you


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AtmizrOpin

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Yesterday evening my vt200 serial number 0147 died after 2 months of use. Returned to the shop I purchased and they give me a brand new vt200 serial number 11965. Noticed that the contact is different, not sure exactly if there are new revision to the newer batch. Hopefully someone could shed some light on the matter. Thank you


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they are now being made with gold plated stainless steel 510 connectors. my serial number is 8542 and also has a ss 510.
 

jj6404

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Jan 15, 2015
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Probably not the right spot for this but I tried my first contact titanium contact coils on my VT200 and I'm getting dry hits every now and then. I'm used to an 11 wrap spaced 3mm ID 24g Ti1 dual coil build at 540 degrees and 60-65 watts. Using now a 11 wrap contact dual coils at 540 degrees with the same steam engine Ti csv and I find I need 75-80 watts to get the same performance but like I said now I'm getting dry hits. The color of my coils are also not uniform. Wondering if that has something to do with the temp control. Anyway I thought the flavor would be denser and better with contact coils but not sure that's the case yet. Anyway, anyone else here have experience with Ti contact coils yet?


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jj6404

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I tried contact ti coils when I first got into TC when it just started and the vape was never as consistent as it was with spaced coils. As of now all I use is twisted titanium builds in just about all of my rta's and rda's and I always keep them spaced.

So when you do a twisted Ti build, you don't get hot spots? Do you pulse it before wicking? That's what I would be worried about.

whenever i make a contact ti coil, before i wick it, i pulse it at 10 watts to get the hot spots out. then i wick it. works every time for me. spaced is easier faster to build. matter of preference.

So do you notice any difference in flavor between the two (contact or spaced)? I pulsed the current Ti build I have in my TM atty. I was real careful and patient with it and I still got a couple times where one of the legs lit up orange for just a hot second. Most of the coils are blue, purple, or dark brown. That spot on one of the legs where it lit up is an off-white, grayish color. I wonder if it got to the dangerous Ti oxide stage on just that one piece but I didn't see any powder form and I wiped it just in case before vaping...
 

WharfRat1976

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May 31, 2014
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Probably not the right spot for this but I tried my first contact titanium contact coils on my VT200 and I'm getting dry hits every now and then. I'm used to an 11 wrap spaced 3mm ID 24g Ti1 dual coil build at 540 degrees and 60-65 watts. Using now a 11 wrap contact dual coils at 540 degrees with the same steam engine Ti csv and I find I need 75-80 watts to get the same performance but like I said now I'm getting dry hits. The color of my coils are also not uniform. Wondering if that has something to do with the temp control. Anyway I thought the flavor would be denser and better with contact coils but not sure that's the case yet. Anyway, anyone else here have experience with Ti contact coils yet?


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Are you getting dry coil warnings. If not, the mod is not in TC mode or not recognizing your contact coil. Been there done that.
 

WharfRat1976

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So when you do a twisted Ti build, you don't get hot spots? Do you pulse it before wicking? That's what I would be worried about.



So do you notice any difference in flavor between the two (contact or spaced)? I pulsed the current Ti build I have in my TM atty. I was real careful and patient with it and I still got a couple times where one of the legs lit up orange for just a hot second. Most of the coils are blue, purple, or dark brown. That spot on one of the legs where it lit up is an off-white, grayish color. I wonder if it got to the dangerous Ti oxide stage on just that one piece but I didn't see any powder form and I wiped it just in case before vaping...
You are fine. I brush it off with warm water. I do try to avoid it. I don't dry fire though. I wick, juice and vape; avoids it all together.
 

jj6404

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From my experience with Gennies I'd say you're getting "hot spots" due to contact, not dry hits. try spacing the coils out next rewick...

I thought that was the case. I have used several spaced builds already. I wanted to try contact coils because I heard it might yield better flavor than spaced coils with titanium. Many people have experienced success with Ti contact builds I just can't seem to get it down right yet and there is not much out there yet in the way of instruction with pics or video.
 

jj6404

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Are you getting dry coil warnings. If not, the mod is not in TC mode or not recognizing your contact coil. Been there done that.

No I wasn't getting dry coil warnings. My mod was in TC mode. I haven't had my DNA200 "pop out" of TC mode yet, I didn't know that was possible. For the first few hits I was just getting harsh feeling dryness towards the ends of my draws. And then the third hit was like a slight dry hit with no warning and when I looked the wicks were still reasonably juiced. I just wish I could find more pictures and/or instruction on Ti contact coils. I really want to try twisted as well as I'm sure that will yield better flavor. I'm coming from fused Kanthal/N80 claptons all the way into this temp control game. Spaced Ti builds aren't bad. Probably the closest flavor experience with temp control to the fused Kanthal claptons of my past I've experienced so far is my spaced/contact SS316L builds that I've been using at around 540 degrees/70 watts. I'm all for twisting and I hope to do claptons with Ti and/or SS in the future, but with the issues with simply building contact coils with those materials while maintaining success with temp control, I fear the same hot spot dry hit issues will occur. I may try this twisted, spaced Ti build though. I just can't imagine it not having natural hot spots without dry-firing. Also, I'm nearing the end of my spools of Ti wire just experimenting with all these builds trying to find my sweet spot lol.
 

RayTrue04

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Nov 9, 2015
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Hello vapors! I'm fairly new to vaping for about a month now. Purchased this mod along with the Uwell Crown Tank and never looked at a Newport again. I was so determined on quiting I gave out a half a pack of analogs the day I made my vape purchase and no regrets. Anyways I've been vaping and learning this on my own and I think I'm doing fairly well but I have something that's been bothering me maybe you guys have the answer for. For some reason my mod doesn't know when to turn temp control on/off. For example, whenever I switch from profile 1 which is set to 40 watts to profile 2 at 60 temp control kicks in. It's almost as if whenever a certain wattage maybe above 50 is used temp control kicks in and I see this is the case as the preheat setting kicks in, ohms no longer rise locked at .26 and I see the temp slowly rising on screen indicating temp control as opposed to my profile 1 where temp blanks out with ---- as I use it. There have even been other times where profile 1 switch to temp control too. I'm not even using my ni200 coil but the dual .25 one. I would just like to have different profiles at different wattage since in the morning my regular 80 is a bit too much. I thought this DNA 200 chip was smart and talk of the town?
 
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