Heavenly Army Motor Vehicle Pool

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73ckn797

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My best guess is that you do not have a trans problem. Since it is only affecting idle characteristics I would suspect something more along the line of an engine control issue.

You say it is sluggish at idle. Is it stumbling, hesitating or lacking power when you accelerate?

Is it only occurring on a cold start-up after sitting for several hours or over night?

How long does it exhibit the sluggish behavior?

Guess so! :) Orrrrrr, maybe the check engine light is broken! :laugh: I'm good with it...it's getting me from point A to point B so that's all that matters. Drove great this evening. Maybe it just needed fresh oil and a little bit of attention. Hey thanks!!!
 
My best guess is that you do not have a trans problem. Since it is only affecting idle characteristics I would suspect something more along the line of an engine control issue.

You say it is sluggish at idle. Is it stumbling, hesitating or lacking power when you accelerate?

Is it only occurring on a cold start-up after sitting for several hours or over night?

How long does it exhibit the sluggish behavior?

It does happen when the engine is cold like this morning when I first got in or after sitting at work all day, and it doesn't do it every time. This morning I put it in reverse and started backing out and it was like it wanted to go dead and sluggish. It will accelerate fine though. But it was fine after pulling out. A couple of weeks ago it was slow on cranking and I had the battery replaced. But right after that it got lurchy and slow and hesitant when I put it in gear to drive. After the initial sluggishness, it drives just fine. Even in park while cranked, it seems to be idling hard, but not all the time. Let's see, that's all I got really. I know I'm not explaining myself very well. I'm not sure if the battery and slugginess was just a coincidence...or related somehow.
 

73ckn797

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That is why I ask so many questions, so you can give more details. With what you have told me I would suspect that there is a fuel pump issue. When the engine is turned off there is a residual fuel pressure that has to be maintained so that when you start the engine later there is sufficient fuel pressure until the pump can provide normal pressure. A check valve is used to hold the residual pressure. It sounds like the pressure is bleeding off and that would cause what you are describing. The best course of action would be to connect a fuel pressure gauge to monitor the pressure after sitting a long period or over night. I know you would not have that device so it would require taking it to a mechanic and left over night.

A second remedy would be to turn the ignition on then back off, then back on several times. When you do that the pump should run briefly and build up the system pressure. You may be able to hear the pump run briefly during that procedure. The third time you turn on the ignition and crank it, it may start right up and idle properly. Try that for the next few days and see whether you have the same problem. If that does not duplicate the condition, then try a few days of just hopping in and cranking and starting the engine, If the symptoms occur then the fuel pump would likely be at fault.

It does happen when the engine is cold like this morning when I first got in or after sitting at work all day, and it doesn't do it every time. This morning I put it in reverse and started backing out and it was like it wanted to go dead and sluggish. It will accelerate fine though. But it was fine after pulling out. A couple of weeks ago it was slow on cranking and I had the battery replaced. But right after that it got lurchy and slow and hesitant when I put it in gear to drive. After the initial sluggishness, it drives just fine. Even in park while cranked, it seems to be idling hard, but not all the time. Let's see, that's all I got really. I know I'm not explaining myself very well.


The battery usually will only affect cranking ability. An engine can run with a dead battery unless it is badly shorted internally. The alternator will provide sufficient power to operate the vehicle.

Likewise, a weak eGo battery will not have enough power to fire the coil in a clearo or tank but if it is a pass-through battery and you have the cable connected, all will work properly. Even if the battery is dead or weak. I figure saying this will be easier to relate to. It is the same basic idea.
I'm not sure if the battery and sluggishness was just a coincidence...or related somehow.
 
That is why I ask so many questions, so you can give more details. With what you have told me I would suspect that there is a fuel pump issue. When the engine is turned off there is a residual fuel pressure that has to be maintained so that when you start the engine later there is sufficient fuel pressure until the pump can provide normal pressure. A check valve is used to hold the residual pressure. It sounds like the pressure is bleeding off and that would cause what you are describing. The best course of action would be to connect a fuel pressure gauge to monitor the pressure after sitting a long period or over night. I know you would not have that device so it would require taking it to a mechanic and left over night.

A second remedy would be to turn the ignition on then back off, then back on several times. When you do that the pump should run briefly and build up the system pressure. You may be able to hear the pump run briefly during that procedure. The third time you turn on the ignition and crank it, it may start right up and idle properly. Try that for the next few days and see whether you have the same problem. If that does not duplicate the condition, then try a few days of just hopping in and cranking and starting the engine, If the symptoms occur then the fuel pump would likely be at fault.




The battery usually will only affect cranking ability. An engine can run with a dead battery unless it is badly shorted internally. The alternator will provide sufficient power to operate the vehicle.

Likewise, a weak eGo battery will not have enough power to fire the coil in a clearo or tank but if it is a pass-through battery and you have the cable connected, all will work properly. Even if the battery is dead or weak. I figure saying this will be easier to relate to. It is the same basic idea.

That makes perfect sense to me believe it or not. My Dad has been a shade tree mechanic his entire life so I've picked up some stuff. It does act like it's not getting enough fuel when I pull off when cold. So how much we talking for a fuel pump if that is the problem?

I knew I did have a bad battery because of the slow startup...but also because it was running at higher voltage than usual. Dad said with a weak battery it will increase in running voltage to account for it. Does that make sense? Am I saying that right?

And thanks so much...I think you nailed it...over the internet no less!!! We'll see over the next few test days. I hate car trouble! HATE IT!
 

73ckn797

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O'Reilly Auto Parts list the fuel pump for $335.00:ohmy: That would still be cheaper than the dealer.


I hate car troubles also. Being around cars all day, I don't care to have to crawl around my cars.

I need to change the oil this weekend and work on the transmission. With 545,000+ miles on it I don't want to spend a lot of money on it but it is my primary vehicle.

That makes perfect sense to me believe it or not. My Dad has been a shade tree mechanic his entire life so I've picked up some stuff. It does act like it's not getting enough fuel when I pull off when cold. So how much we talking for a fuel pump if that is the problem?

I knew I did have a bad battery because of the slow startup...but also because it was running at higher voltage than usual. Dad said with a weak battery it will increase in running voltage to account for it. Does that make sense? Am I saying that right?

And thanks so much...I think you nailed it...over the internet no less!!! We'll see over the next few test days. I hate car trouble! HATE IT!
 
O'Reilly Auto Parts list the fuel pump for $335.00:ohmy: That would still be cheaper than the dealer.


I hate car troubles also. Being around cars all day, I don't care to have to crawl around my cars.

I need to change the oil this weekend and work on the transmission. With 545,000+ miles on it I don't want to spend a lot of money on it but it is my primary vehicle.

I googled. Could it be just the fuel filter? I guess I could try that first and if my problems continue I could get it checked out for the fuel pump. What do you think?
 

73ckn797

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If the fuel filter has never been replaced that would not be a bad decision but, by what you describe it will not correct the problem. A restricted or clogged fuel filter would affect the over-all performance of the engine and the engine would starve for fuel as you were driving, making it stall out going down the road and not cause the symptoms you describe.

Try the procedure I mention with cycling the ignition on and of several times first. The check valve for holding residual fuel pressure is built into the fuel pump.

The only other issue that could affect the condition would be if there is a pressure regulator on the fuel injector rail. That is the fuel supply line where all of the injectors are connected to. A good mechanic would perform the diagnosis to eliminate that possibility. If the regulator was hanging open then there would be other symptoms, not much different to a clogged fuel filter. Fuel pressure would not be "regulated" at the engine and that would cause a different set of symptoms. I would need to know the engine size the vehicle has regarding the regulator.

I googled. Could it be just the fuel filter? I guess I could try that first and if my problems continue I could get it checked out for the fuel pump. What do you think?
 
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If the fuel filter has never been replaced that would not be a bad decision but, by what you describe it will not correct the problem. A restricted or clogged fuel filter would affect the over-all performance of the engine and the engine would starve for fuel as you were driving, making it stall out going down the road and not cause the symptoms you describe.

Try the procedure I mention with cycling the ignition on and of several times first. The check valve for holding residual fuel pressure is built into the fuel pump.

The only other issue that could affect the condition would be if there is a pressure regulator on the fuel injector rail. That is the fuel supply line where all of the injectors are connected to. A good mechanic would perform the diagnosis to eliminate that possibility. If the regulator was hanging open then there would be other symptoms, not much different to a clogged fuel filter. Fuel pressure would not be "regulated" at the engine and that would cause a different set of symptoms. I would need to know the engine size the vehicle has regarding the regulator.

Ahhhhh....I see. Makes perfect sense. Thanks a lot!!!! ;)
 

Chakris

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Just took the Toyota Altis (Corolla) in for a tune up yesterday. It's 7 years old and only 70,000 kilos on it. However, it started to drip oil the last couple of months and I figured it was time. They called this morning saying I had needed work on the front shocks as well as an oil change. I told them, well I can see maybe the shocks are wearing out some, but I just changed the oil back in January - so I don't think I need an oil change or a new filter just now, ok? "Oh, eh - yes sir. we agree." OK, when can I pick it up? "Eh, today sir. At 3:00 PM." Thanks. I'll be Back...
 

73ckn797

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The valve cover gasket could be leaking.

The shocks could be weak and/or leaking. Bounce the left & right corners of the car real hard by pushing down on it. If it rebounds up and immediately settles then the shocks are OK. If they bounce up and down more than once they are probably weak and need replacing. Look at the struts/shocks to see if there is fluid running down from the piston seal area (at the base of the front springs in front or out from under the rear shock upper covers).
Just took the Toyota Altis (Corolla) in for a tune up yesterday. It's 7 years old and only 70,000 kilos on it. However, it started to drip oil the last couple of months and I figured it was time. They called this morning saying I had needed work on the front shocks as well as an oil change. I told them, well I can see maybe the shocks are wearing out some, but I just changed the oil back in January - so I don't think I need an oil change or a new filter just now, ok? "Oh, eh - yes sir. we agree." OK, when can I pick it up? "Eh, today sir. At 3:00 PM." Thanks. I'll be Back...
 

NakiFantaki

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Hello there. So happy to see this thread.
Whew. I never ever have been able to escape car problems. So now I will attempt to tell you my newest issue. Lol ready....GO!
1990 Honda prelude.
Car died on me this morning while driving. I really didn't even realize it had stalled until I tried to turn it and I had no power.
Went to try and start it back up. Won't start. All I hear and see is the belt spinning. The belt is connected to the engine. Not sure if that's the timing belt or serpentine belt. (i don't know much about cars)
I have had no other issues with the car until now. I bought it a year ago for 900 bucks. So I'm not sure I want to dump money in it. Any ideas?
Thanks!

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NakiFantaki

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185k on miles.
4 cylinder engine.
When the car died this morning I was pulling into my girlfriends work. Both the battery light and oil light came on. I have never seen the check engine light come on ever since owning the car. I just had an oil change done last month. I checked the oil this morning and it looked fine. Correct level, no other strange colors in the oil.
It doesn't seem to be spinning faster then usual. When I put the key in I see all my dash lights on and can hear the initial priming of the fuel pump. When I go to start it it doesnt turn over, just hear and see the belt connected to the engine spinning. Hope that help :)

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