Hello All (anyone know?)

[Houndstooth]

Nickel wire and dry burn doesn't go together...

Perfectly fine providing one is aware of the lower melting point and pays heed accordingly.

 

[greek mule]

Perfectly fine providing one is aware of the lower melting point and pays heed accordingly.

It's melting point is not lower,actually it's higher than kanthal A1 or Ni80(1455 °C vs 1450°C vs 1400°C ).The point is that Nickel wire when heated above 400 °C forms toxic oxides.You can easily exceed that temperature threshold when dry burn.

 

[Paxdeorum]

well. It's a controversial matter since there arent (as far as i know) specific tests tailored on e-cigarettes. What is well known is that some (well the most actually) materials change significally if exposed to very high Temperature (reached if u glow/dryburn your coil), producing oxides and other substances that are nocive (or not healthy anwyay) and that you MIGHT vape/inhale.

THe matherials that are strongly suggested to NOT Dryburn are Pure Nickel (Ni200) and Titanium (Ti).
The other materials are safer but not 100% safe.

I found some "unoffcial" sources advicing to use NiChrome (Ni80) if you wanna use often DryBurn.

Anyway vaping WITH dryburning is surely less healty than vapin w/o it. That Said if u wanna do it, try to do it at low watts and pulsing and try to avoid to glow the coil like it's xmas time.

Thank u so much.

 

[Houndstooth]

It's melting point is not lower,actually it's higher than kanthal A1 or Ni80(1455 °C vs 1450°C vs 1400°C ).The point is that Nickel wire when heated above 400 °C forms toxic oxides.You can easily exceed that temperature threshold when dry burn.

Ah, I think our confusion and any continued needless debate might be rectified by this clarification. I use Ni80 and was not aware folks used another Ni element thereby making my lazy reference of Ni clear when it in fact wasn't.

 

[Paxdeorum]

... dip in isopropanol to wash off the ash, and coils seem to be indefinitely reusable....

Thank u so much.
I have never use any liquid to clean just dry burn at low watts and pulsing. Can i use ethyl alcohol instead of isopropanol? Because very difficult to find here.

 

[Paxdeorum]

I found some "unoffcial" sources advicing to use NiChrome (Ni80) if you wanna use often DryBurn.

lots of source advicing Kanthal A1 instead of Ni80 if will often DryBurn. I guess there is no consensus in the vape community. Is it correct?

 

[Paxdeorum]

I could get years out of my Kanthal coils if I exercised a little patients. My 32 ga. wire can becomes brittle and can break if I try to add to much Rayon wick in the 3mm ID space. RJ coil cleaning (post above) is basically what I perform but I found that producing a thermal shock "flakes" the build up off the coil if I quickly dip my RDA (not to exceed the diameter of the coil) in water while the coil is cooling down from near red hot. A little discoloration is ok after the water immersion but I don't want to see scales of build up on the coil after cleaning.

Thanks

But no water recommended. There are really many different approaches. I think I will find my own way in time

 

[hisionics]

Thank u so much.

you are welcome pal

to clean i ve randomly (Serendipity) discovered coil gunk is removed easily with ... drumroll...Coke!
At least it works on plain wires and if they are not much dirty: i never reach the point of the most vapers when u see a big black conglomerate on coil, cotton/Rayon, ecc. My taste forces me to re-coil pretty often (and it's also healthier btw), so dunno if this works on complex (or very dirty) coils.

I've found that even a piece of scottex removes a good portion if the coil is still well wet.
ofc there are a lot of methods and materials.

For cleaning new atoms i use various combinations (depending by the strength of the oil smell) of : Bicarbonate/Salt and Vinegar, Dish Detersive(few drops), warm water and Ultrasound machine (rly cheap and works wonders for small fragments situated in hardly reachable parts of atomizer).

 

[greek mule]

Ah, I think our confusion and any continued needless debate might be rectified by this clarification. I use Ni80 and was not aware folks used another Ni element thereby making my lazy reference of Ni clear when it in fact wasn't.

 

[GOMuniEsq]

Thank u so much.
I have never use any liquid to clean just dry burn at low watts and pulsing. Can i use ethyl alcohol instead of isopropanol? Because very difficult to find here.

Sure. Lucky you to live in a place where rubbing alcohol is rarer than drinking alcohol. Haha

 

[Marper]

I tend to slow pulse to dry the crud then remove the coil or coils and slot them on a 3mm miniature screwdriver and clean with a wire brush

 

[NealBJr]

THe matherials that are strongly suggested to NOT Dryburn are Pure Nickel (Ni200) and Titanium (Ti).
The other materials are safer but not 100% safe.

I found some "unoffcial" sources advicing to use NiChrome (Ni80) if you wanna use often DryBurn.

Anyway vaping WITH dryburning is surely less healty than vapin w/o it. That Said if u wanna do it, try to do it at low watts and pulsing and try to avoid to glow the coil like it's xmas time.

I agree about the Titanium. Technically, Titanium oxidizes at 1200C, but that's too close for comfort IMO. I would imagine that just a little would oxidize during a dry burn.. even if it's at a microscopic level, that's just not something I want to gamble with. Nickel and Chromium (nichrome) I would imagine is fairly safe, as well as Iron, Chromium, Aluminum (Kanthal). the Mostly Iron and Chromium (SS 420) should do fine, but I think the annealing would discourage me.. .it would get too hard over time.personally, I mainly use Nichrome and Kanthal, and a good fused clapton build lasts me several months. I replace the wick weekly though to maintain freshness.

I also don't do nickel at all.. it's way too soft.

 

[hisionics]

I agree about the Titanium. Technically, Titanium oxidizes at 1200C, but that's too close for comfort IMO. I would imagine that just a little would oxidize during a dry burn.. even if it's at a microscopic level, that's just not something I want to gamble with. Nickel and Chromium (nichrome) I would imagine is fairly safe, as well as Iron, Chromium, Aluminum (Kanthal). the Mostly Iron and Chromium (SS 420) should do fine, but I think the annealing would discourage me.. .it would get too hard over time.personally, I mainly use Nichrome and Kanthal, and a good fused clapton build lasts me several months. I replace the wick weekly though to maintain freshness.

I also don't do nickel at all.. it's way too soft.

Well, Nickel (Ni200) was one of starters of the TC era. There are so many better TC materials atm ..no reason to use Ni anymore. Ti is a lot better for his high TC precision, but still has (reported/read, not tried tho) a kinda annoying spring effect.

The best TC materials prolly are NiFe alloys (Nife30 and NiFe48). Personally SS 316 didnt work too well for me (TCR values are also very different among differnt productors).

For Non-TC mat, i'm recently trying Ni80 and i'm kinda liking it (more than Kanthal)..it's a shame it cant be used in TC mode.

You're right about freshness of wick. I'm kinda lazy so sometimes i leave on a shelf an atomizer fully refilled for days or weeks and i find the flavour has changed at least a bit, sometimes a lot!
Sometimes i gotta say it was better tho! Prolly coz liquid was not enough "aged" so the higher aeration/oxygenation was a positive thing.

Other than this the COIL should get some attention too : the fact itself that we leave a metallic object in a wet bath for long periods is not a great idea (healthy speaking). Expecially if we are using some "organic" liquid (the ones that gunk a lot) it's a good idea to clean the coil too after long periods of resting/inactivity.

 

[Paxdeorum]

Sure. Lucky you to live in a place where rubbing alcohol is rarer than drinking alcohol. Haha

hahaha )

..personally, I mainly use Nichrome and Kanthal, and a good fused clapton build lasts me several months. I replace the wick weekly though to maintain freshness.

Thanks.. my personal choice Kanthal A1 but from now i can prefer Ni80. I got it.

... i'm recently trying Ni80 and i'm kinda liking it (more than Kanthal)..it's a shame it cant be used in TC mode.........................
Other than this the COIL should get some attention too : the fact itself that we leave a metallic object in a wet bath for long periods is not a great idea (healthy speaking). Expecially if we are using some "organic" liquid (the ones that gunk a lot) it's a good idea to clean the coil too after long periods of resting/inactivity.

Thanks. I use always power mode.

Dear Friends really really thanks for your valuable informations. I learn a lot thanks to you all.

 

[Paxdeorum]

remove the coil or coils and slot them on a 3mm miniature screwdriver and clean with a wire brush

thanks it is really hard way for me

 

[Paxdeorum]

Hi Folks, you can see the pics after 50th day (7-8 times dry burn and tweeze) what do you think about? Enough or go on?
Before DryBurn
View media item 431921
After
View media item 431923View media item 431925

 

[Marper]

Looks good to me

 

[Paxdeorum]

Looks good to me

thnks friend

 

[DaveP]

I just change my SS316 coils. If I have to break the atty down for a dry burn, why not wrap a new coil? I can understand those who use expensive exotic wires dry burning to extend life, but Kanthal, Nichrome, and Stainless Steel wires are cheap.

 

[Paxdeorum]

I just change my SS316 coils. If I have to break the atty down for a dry burn, why not wrap a new coil? I can understand those who use expensive exotic wires dry burning to extend life, but Kanthal, Nichrome, and Stainless Steel wires are cheap.

didn't feel at ease so i change
View media item 431927