Help needed re making atty connector

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EliteHeat

Full Member
Jun 16, 2009
15
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Hi all

Like just about everyone else I am having problems with sourcing atomiser connectors. I appreciate the ingenuity of the RCA type connectors, but this isn't for me

So, I have now officially stopped wasting my time on trying to find a suitable connector. This leaves a gaping hole in my life and I am going to fill it with wasting my time trying to build my own.

Due to the helpful bods here, I now know I need an 8mm * 0.75mm thread for a 901 atty, and not withstanding the fact that I have no suitable materials or tools sorted out, my plans are almost finalised with one exception. I am having problems envisaging how to fabricate the centre electrode. Specifically I need to know where I can get a suitable pre-made head that I can solder a bit of wire to. I am sure it has a name and if I knew what this was, my search would be much easier.

So, if anyone knows what these widgets are called, or where I can get them or if they have a better idea then I would be very grateful.

In time honoured fashion, after I am able to make these for next to nothing I will of course offer them for sale here at ludicrously inflated prices or turn into a giant neurotic .... like troll or whatever his name is.

TIA
 

Kewtsquirrel

Super Member
ECF Veteran
May 21, 2009
455
3
DFW, TX
moddersupply.com
Elite, just out of curiosity, what do you need that many atomizer connectors for to justify the expense and pain of trying to fab them?
I've been looking for 901 atomizer connectors for months, its the only one I can't get right now, so I just cut up dead atomizers (or sometimes live ones, ack!) when I need to make an adapter. Fortunately, you really only need one adapter, or you can just make a mod to mate with whatever atomizer you *really* want to use, or make your mod with a connector that the atomizer side /is/ available for so that you can easily make adapters. (Read: 510 or 801)

To answer your original question: Without a lathe, making the connector is going to be pretty difficult. It's not just a matter of getting the size and threading correct, but you really need a little lip inside and a piece of rubber or silicone sitting on the lip and then putting your center connector on top and through that insulator. You want a little bit of spring in the center connector as the tolerances on atomizer connector isn't that great, they both need to give a little bit to make a proper joint. You MAY be able to get away with just suspending a center pin - a copper nail would work well - in some silicone sealant. It's cheap and readily available at home depot or lowes. The only issue I can see with this is the e-liquid penetrating between the silicone and connector and it would eventually just slip right out. e-liquid does this to hot glue amazingly well, the bond between the glue and whatever its stuck to will be completely broken after not too terribly long.

tl;dr Atomizers are cheap, so are dremel tools. Eye surgery isn't, wear safety goggles.
 

EliteHeat

Full Member
Jun 16, 2009
15
0
Hi

I am in the UK so Lowes etc is beyond me.

I work as a self employed heating engineer and 10 weeks ago (4th of July) I was lucky enough to be knocked off my bicycle in central London by a hit and run driver. This dislocated my left shoulder which wasn't nice but to my horror it also damaged the nerves running from my shoulder all the way down to my hand, leaving me effectively one armed. This has meant that I have lost 100% of my income as I am unable to work. My consultant surgeon has recently told me that he expects me to make a full recovery but with nerve damage, recovery time is always measured in months. I will consider myself fortunate if I have a usable hand and arm back within 6 months.

In the meantime, and getting back to the subject, I need to earn a living. Employment prospects in the UK are not great at the moment. If you are 49 with an injury, they are non existent. So, I need to do something.

For those with little knowledge of the UK we are practically bankrupt, we produce nothing and need to borrow billions annually to stay afloat. We have a patently insane, unelected Scottish prime minister, in fact most of the government seem to be Scottish. They all seem hell bent on destroying England, a country that they clearly hate. As a side issue we are also the most surveilled country in the world,, we represent 1% of the population but have 20% of the worlds CCTV's cameras. Our politicians routinely steal public money through fraudulent expense claims and not only do not get sentenced to prison, but are not even required to resign.

I have been using a PV for a year now and like most people, have spent a lot of money on under-powered and ineffective e-cigs. I have drawers full of dead 901 batteries and cheap e-cigs from China that never really worked at all.

I then saw the screwdriver and bought one. It seemed obvious to me that this was the way to go and was initially very happy with it. Then the switch started to intermittently fail. I contacted the suppliers asking for a replacement switch-end be sent out and I would send the broken one back by return - I had no backup you see and am not willing to go back to real cigarettes for however long it took for the SD to be repaired. Anyway, they were not willing to do this but were willing to sell me a switch for about £10 plus £2 postage for a 40p stamp. Somewhat disgusted I searched the internet and found this forum, which got me thinking about making a temporary machine to use while the SD was being repaired.

So, with the info I've gleaned from this and other sites I started making my own crappy box mods and was surprised to find that they all worked just as well as the SD if not better. OK, they aren't pretty but who cares?

My current effort is a 4 * AA battery box with a switch. Now, as everyone here knows if you run 3 AA's in series you will get a pretty decent vaping machine. The total cost of this? about £2 for the box, an LED and a hacked about DC jack recessed into the box. With 5.5 volts at 2500mah it knocks spots off just about everything else, plus you can use it as a torch.

Flushed with this success I had a closer look at my SD. What is it exactly? it's a battery holder with a switch and an atty connector. It is not a cure for cancer yet for some reason it is lauded as if the manufacturers were personally responsible for the development of PV's. It is a bit of metal that has been turned on a lathe. I don't wish to sound arrogant, but some of the mods I've seen here are easily the equal of the SD, many are better.

I then had a look at sourcing the materials to make a, lets call it a battery compartment or BC, the metals are cheap. Use brass, aluminium, copper - whatever you like. The switches can be bought for as little as 40 pence inclusive of postage and taxes. Nice looking, chunky things rated at 16A and shouldn't break and if they did certainly would not cost £10 plus £2 P&P to replace.

The engineery involved in making a BC is not ground breaking. A lathe, a set of taps and dies, a pillar drill, a multimeter, a soldering iron and normal household tools and you're set. If you want, you can go mad and offer anodising, battery extensions, multiple volt ratings, or, as I have recently read a screw on vibrating end (good idea). So, not too difficult then ....

With one exception, the atomiser connector.

If you look at a couple of 901 atomisers it is immediately obvious that the manufacturing tolerances were quite generous. Cutting a DC jack down so it makes contact with your test atty does not mean it is guaranteed to work with any other. This however is an easy problem to solve but what is not quite so easy is solving the centre electrode issue. First I need the widget that makes contact and I can't be using nails or blobs of solder etc. It has to be something that can quickly and permanently be attached to a wire. Insulation from the outer part of the connector is quite easy, but then you have the issue of either using tube and filling the centre with resin or whatever or using solid bars and then drilling through to accommodate the electrode.

So, this is my outstanding issue.

And before anyone throws their hands up in horror, flaming yet another get-rich-quick wannabe. Let me just say again, I am injured and have lost 100% of my income. Until I have recovered I need to be doing something useful and to earn a living. If I made 2 or 3 of these a day then I could do both.
 

surbitonPete

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Jan 25, 2009
2,915
5
North Yorkshire UK
Hi

I am in the UK so Lowes etc is beyond me.

I work as a self employed heating engineer and 10 weeks ago (4th of July) I was lucky enough to be knocked off my bicycle in central London by a hit and run driver. This dislocated my left shoulder which wasn't nice but to my horror it also damaged the nerves running from my shoulder all the way down to my hand, leaving me effectively one armed. This has meant that I have lost 100% of my income as I am unable to work. My consultant surgeon has recently told me that he expects me to make a full recovery but with nerve damage, recovery time is always measured in months. I will consider myself fortunate if I have a usable hand and arm back within 6 months.

In the meantime, and getting back to the subject, I need to earn a living. Employment prospects in the UK are not great at the moment. If you are 49 with an injury, they are non existent. So, I need to do something.

For those with little knowledge of the UK we are practically bankrupt, we produce nothing and need to borrow billions annually to stay afloat. We have a patently insane, unelected Scottish prime minister, in fact most of the government seem to be Scottish. They all seem hell bent on destroying England, a country that they clearly hate. As a side issue we are also the most surveilled country in the world,, we represent 1% of the population but have 20% of the worlds CCTV's cameras. Our politicians routinely steal public money through fraudulent expense claims and not only do not get sentenced to prison, but are not even required to resign.

I have been using a PV for a year now and like most people, have spent a lot of money on under-powered and ineffective e-cigs. I have drawers full of dead 901 batteries and cheap e-cigs from China that never really worked at all.

I then saw the screwdriver and bought one. It seemed obvious to me that this was the way to go and was initially very happy with it. Then the switch started to intermittently fail. I contacted the suppliers asking for a replacement switch-end be sent out and I would send the broken one back by return - I had no backup you see and am not willing to go back to real cigarettes for however long it took for the SD to be repaired. Anyway, they were not willing to do this but were willing to sell me a switch for about £10 plus £2 postage for a 40p stamp. Somewhat disgusted I searched the internet and found this forum, which got me thinking about making a temporary machine to use while the SD was being repaired.

So, with the info I've gleaned from this and other sites I started making my own crappy box mods and was surprised to find that they all worked just as well as the SD if not better. OK, they aren't pretty but who cares?

My current effort is a 4 * AA battery box with a switch. Now, as everyone here knows if you run 3 AA's in series you will get a pretty decent vaping machine. The total cost of this? about £2 for the box, an LED and a hacked about DC jack recessed into the box. With 5.5 volts at 2500mah it knocks spots off just about everything else, plus you can use it as a torch.

Flushed with this success I had a closer look at my SD. What is it exactly? it's a battery holder with a switch and an atty connector. It is not a cure for cancer yet for some reason it is lauded as if the manufacturers were personally responsible for the development of PV's. It is a bit of metal that has been turned on a lathe. I don't wish to sound arrogant, but some of the mods I've seen here are easily the equal of the SD, many are better.

I then had a look at sourcing the materials to make a, lets call it a battery compartment or BC, the metals are cheap. Use brass, aluminium, copper - whatever you like. The switches can be bought for as little as 40 pence inclusive of postage and taxes. Nice looking, chunky things rated at 16A and shouldn't break and if they did certainly would not cost £10 plus £2 P&P to replace.

The engineery involved in making a BC is not ground breaking. A lathe, a set of taps and dies, a pillar drill, a multimeter, a soldering iron and normal household tools and you're set. If you want, you can go mad and offer anodising, battery extensions, multiple volt ratings, or, as I have recently read a screw on vibrating end (good idea). So, not too difficult then ....

With one exception, the atomiser connector.

If you look at a couple of 901 atomisers it is immediately obvious that the manufacturing tolerances were quite generous. Cutting a DC jack down so it makes contact with your test atty does not mean it is guaranteed to work with any other. This however is an easy problem to solve but what is not quite so easy is solving the centre electrode issue. First I need the widget that makes contact and I can't be using nails or blobs of solder etc. It has to be something that can quickly and permanently be attached to a wire. Insulation from the outer part of the connector is quite easy, but then you have the issue of either using tube and filling the centre with resin or whatever or using solid bars and then drilling through to accommodate the electrode.

So, this is my outstanding issue.

And before anyone throws their hands up in horror, flaming yet another get-rich-quick wannabe. Let me just say again, I am injured and have lost 100% of my income. Until I have recovered I need to be doing something useful and to earn a living. If I made 2 or 3 of these a day then I could do both.

Lmao....perfect summation of the UK.

Oh and I agree that four AA rechargeable's seems like a perfect power supply. (It certainly works a treat for 801 penstyle atties anyway)...I guess you must have seen my own four AA square battery box mod.
 
Last edited:

Kewtsquirrel

Super Member
ECF Veteran
May 21, 2009
455
3
DFW, TX
moddersupply.com
Oh, *that* connector. That's what we call the battery connector, as it comes off of the battery. The 3 options for those are 1) cutting up a battery and re-purposing the connector 2) like nuck said, 901 manual extenders, cut them up and re-purpose the connector or 3) look at the sticky at the top of this forum that says connectors.

You're right on PVs being pretty damned simple, although 16A switches aren't required at all, atomizers are only pulling 2 amps under high voltage applications.
 

EliteHeat

Full Member
Jun 16, 2009
15
0
Oh, *that* connector. That's what we call the battery connector, as it comes off of the battery. The 3 options for those are 1) cutting up a battery and re-purposing the connector 2) like nuck said, 901 manual extenders, cut them up and re-purpose the connector or 3) look at the sticky at the top of this forum that says connectors.

You're right on PVs being pretty damned simple, although 16A switches aren't required at all, atomizers are only pulling 2 amps under high voltage applications.

I know, but its a big shiny button. A BIG shiny button.
 

EliteHeat

Full Member
Jun 16, 2009
15
0
Oh, *that* connector. That's what we call the battery connector, as it comes off of the battery. The 3 options for those are 1) cutting up a battery and re-purposing the connector 2) like nuck said, 901 manual extenders, cut them up and re-purpose the connector or 3) look at the sticky at the top of this forum that says connectors.

You're right on PVs being pretty damned simple, although 16A switches aren't required at all, atomizers are only pulling 2 amps under high voltage applications.

I started cutting an old battery apart yesterday. I hadn't used it for at least 4 months. Anyway, halfway through it activated itself, then started winking at me. I threw it in with the dishes and haven't seen it since :D
 

EliteHeat

Full Member
Jun 16, 2009
15
0
Anyway, back to the subject of battery connector widgets. Here is a technical drawing of what I need:-


| |
| |
-- --

So, my idea is to solder the wire to the, hopefully, hollow vertical bit. Then to possibly heat shrink some sleeving round the wirey bit and hey presto, a thingummyjig.

Oops, it slid over to the left. Here is a better drawing

..| |
..| |
------

Ignore the dots.
 

Kewtsquirrel

Super Member
ECF Veteran
May 21, 2009
455
3
DFW, TX
moddersupply.com
Thats going to be your center pin? No need for it to be hollow unless it's easier for you to work with. That drawing is also upside down, right? The flat bit should be whats making contact to the atomizer. The technical challenge is, like I said earlier, going to be the little lip inside of your threaded connector so that the center pin is only allowed a little bit of spring from your insulation, and doesn't just get pushed down and lose contact.

Edit:
Nuck said:
I hate to be 'that' guy but all this is really basic stuff and has been covered over and over in this subforum. You could easily get all the answers you need with pics using the 'Search this forum' option and then post if you get stuck.

Meh, if the guy wants to go through all the hassle of trying to make em, might as well help. I give it 2 days before he realizes that it's an immense waste of time and money that can be better spent working on the rest of the housing, and then we get to see some cool new designs.
 
Last edited:

surbitonPete

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Jan 25, 2009
2,915
5
North Yorkshire UK
I have made all my mods with a 'plug' in atty connection..I have been pleasantly suprised by the fact that just a simple push fit to make the centre atty connection is more than enough to get a good electrical connection. I originally made them with a spring loaded centre pin but found I didn't even need to do that.
 
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EliteHeat

Full Member
Jun 16, 2009
15
0
For the battery side of a 901 -> can't you use this?

You should be able to use any 901 atty / cartomizer. Done. :D

Take care,
- Hap

That's what I have been using, sorry cannot post a link yet. The problems with it are; the centre electrode is recessed too far, the male thread is far too short and is, unbelievably, not grounded although to be fair this probably would not be an issue with a metal body.
 

HaploVoss

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Aug 13, 2009
624
6
52
Rogersville, MO - USA
That's what I have been using, sorry cannot post a link yet. The problems with it are; the centre electrode is recessed too far, the male thread is far too short and is, unbelievably, not grounded although to be fair this probably would not be an issue with a metal body.

Ah ok. Well I had not thought of using a non-metal casing, although you could use a proper sized pice of tubing, or exterior shield casing for this adapter for the ground, and no problem there. you should be able to extend, or replace the center electrode however you like -

The main reason I referenced this is from the sound of what you were needing was almost a chassis for center / outer lead insulation and this way you would have the threads already in place.

I did not realize the threads were too shallow???

Sounds to me like you're well on your way though so I'm looking forward to hearing how it turns out! :)

Sorry couldn't help more :p

Take care,
- Hap
 

HaploVoss

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Aug 13, 2009
624
6
52
Rogersville, MO - USA
I have made all my mods with a 'plug' in atty connection..I have been pleasantly suprised by the fact that just a simple push fit to make the centre atty connection is more than enough to get a good electrical connection. I originally made them with a spring loaded centre pin but found I didn't even need to do that.

I also use this! - for my home made pass through I just use a recessed cap, with a bent copper lead on each side for the outer contact (and two nubs that stick up from bottom - for attys and cartomizers that don't have good contact w/o that), and a spring steel pin bent into a 'triangle' for the center contact... so you just smack any atty in there and between the light spring action of the center lead making a snug center conn. and the copper lead slamming it into dead center - done. :D

Take care,
- Hap
 
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