Hello! Im trying to switch from clapton kanthal to stainless steel, im using a clapton 24/32 dual coil on my medusa, my mod tesla nano 120w . my friend gave me a ss clapton 26 g. can you give me some advices or thing to consider in using ss? Thanks in Advance !
help Switching From Kanthal to Stainless steel
- Thread starter cj a
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Hi and welcome.
Are you planning to use the SS in TC mode or watts mode?
SS should not be heated beyond orange (no red-dry burns).
SS will be a bit lower in overall resistance that a comparable kanthal build.
Cheers
I
Are you planning to use the SS in TC mode or watts mode?
SS should not be heated beyond orange (no red-dry burns).
SS will be a bit lower in overall resistance that a comparable kanthal build.
Cheers
I
yeah im going to use tc mode but i dunno whats the sweet spot degrees in tc mode?
also if im going to try burn it? ill just avoid it to reach orange yellow? Thanks for the reply! and i also can i dry burn wash it?
Mate,
I use 420f-470f as my safe zone.
I set watts at about the same as I would in watt mode. (+/- 15% or so)
An orange glow and a quench should work just fine.
If I made a 6 wrap with kanthal, I would do a 7 wrap with SS to achieve approx the same resistance.
(YMMV)
My SS tech is to build for watts and once stable and happy, switch to TC mode and tweak the temps/watts until I find my "sweet Spot" for the rda/juice/device.
Cheers
I
I use 420f-470f as my safe zone.
I set watts at about the same as I would in watt mode. (+/- 15% or so)
An orange glow and a quench should work just fine.
If I made a 6 wrap with kanthal, I would do a 7 wrap with SS to achieve approx the same resistance.
(YMMV)
My SS tech is to build for watts and once stable and happy, switch to TC mode and tweak the temps/watts until I find my "sweet Spot" for the rda/juice/device.
Cheers
I
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Note that Claptons aren't that great for TC unless you're sure that they are 100% SS, and even then, the readings tend to be a bit unstable (but you might be lucky and have one that's ok).
TC will work better with single wire, and the wraps need to be spaced. It's all about the chipset being able to read the resistance and it's TCR value as it warms up.
As this is a clapton, you need to sort out the "sweet spot" for yourself, start low in wattage and increase as you test... once you figure out a good wattage, set it in TC mode and then start testing the range of the temp. that you're happy with.
The resistance of the coil depends on the core wire. If your current 24/32 Kanthal dual coils are working well for you, you can simply make coils of SS 26G Claptons and come out at about the same resistance. Resistance isn't a big deal, so long as it's withing the safety range of the mod, so I wouldn't get hung up there.
As for dry burning, I do it on all my Claptons (well, all my wires period) when I rewick. Pulsing to a medium orange should be fine. I don't make them get to cherry red, which really is unnecessary with any wire. I do make my coils tight rather than spaced and have no problems with TC with them. I do not have a Tesla nano, and TC performance does vary by manufacturer, so keep that in mind.
Oh, and for temps, 400-450F seems to work very well for me. The wattage will depend on things like whether you have preheat available, and overall coil mass. And if you see "temp protected" pop up on the screen (assuming a Tesla does that, it should) that is NOT an error message, simply informing you the mod is doing what you asked it to, limit the temp. If it pops up within half a second of holding down the fire button you could probably lower your "TC" wattage and be fine.
glowing metal colors indicate the temp of the wire... actual temps vary for different materials
infrared ( hard to see glow, gunk starts to dry up) low temp
red ( preferred dry burn temp for SS, Ti, Ni)
orange ( preferred for Kanthal, Nichrome)
yellow ( begins to damage any coil)
white ( hottest before failure, most thinner wires pop at this point, 26+ ga.)
infrared ( hard to see glow, gunk starts to dry up) low temp
red ( preferred dry burn temp for SS, Ti, Ni)
orange ( preferred for Kanthal, Nichrome)
yellow ( begins to damage any coil)
white ( hottest before failure, most thinner wires pop at this point, 26+ ga.)
Welcome and glad you joined.
Could start low and work up to establish sweet spot.
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Admittedly, it's been a while since I've been in a physics classroom, but last I remember, the glow emitted by a hot object (or "black body curve" if you prefer the technical term) depends only on the temperature of the object, not what it's made of or anything else.
...unless you mean actual temps to which it should be brought vary by material. But the color itself, at a given temperature (or, conversely, the temperature needed to attain a certain glow) should be the same, for all of them.
I'm by no means an expert, but here's a little of what I've picked up along the way. I'll not get in to the relative safety of dry-burning different wires, as that's beyond my level of experience, but instead I'll talk about actual performance while using the device. If any of this is wrong, I'm sure someone will be along to correct me soon enough.
Let's assume for now that all other variables (wire gauge, coil wraps, diameter, etc.) are the same, and only the material is changing. So if you build the same coil, but out of a different material, it will have the same dimensions, same volume, same surface area, etc., and only the resistance will be different. Now, there are two things that really dictate what's going on at the boundary between the wire and the wick -- that's where all the action is, where the actual vaporization occurs. First is the "heat flux", or the amount of heat energy that actually moves (is "in flux") from one location to another. This is measured in wattage per unit area, usually in the units mW/mm^2 (milliwatts per square millimeter). The second is the actual amount of surface area through which this heat is moving. If you multiply "watts per surface area" by "surface area" you see that you end up with simply "watts." And if you dump the same amount of watts, into the same amount of surface area, you're going to get the same amount of heat out of it, regardless of the material.
So, in a nutshell, for a wattage-regulated device like your Tesla 120w, you shouldn't really notice any difference in performance between the two wire types. Some people claim SS tastes "cleaner" and doesn't have that "metallic" taste they get from Kanthal. Other people say just the opposite, that Kanthal is the clean-tasting one, and that it's SS that tastes metallic to them. I guess you'll just have to try both, and judge for yourself.
Now, if we leave the realm of regulated wattage and start talking about variable-voltage devices, the differences become more apparent. SS has lower resistance than kanthal. So now we have two coils with identical dimensions, but with different resistances, the one with lower resistance (SS) will achieve higher wattage at the same volt settings. So on a VV device, you would need to turn the volts down on a SS coil to get the same vape as you would at higher volts on a Kanthal coil. With an unregulated or mechanical device, you're not even able to "turn down" the volts, so you will just get more watts out of the SS coil than you would from Kanthal, period.
Let's assume for now that all other variables (wire gauge, coil wraps, diameter, etc.) are the same, and only the material is changing. So if you build the same coil, but out of a different material, it will have the same dimensions, same volume, same surface area, etc., and only the resistance will be different. Now, there are two things that really dictate what's going on at the boundary between the wire and the wick -- that's where all the action is, where the actual vaporization occurs. First is the "heat flux", or the amount of heat energy that actually moves (is "in flux") from one location to another. This is measured in wattage per unit area, usually in the units mW/mm^2 (milliwatts per square millimeter). The second is the actual amount of surface area through which this heat is moving. If you multiply "watts per surface area" by "surface area" you see that you end up with simply "watts." And if you dump the same amount of watts, into the same amount of surface area, you're going to get the same amount of heat out of it, regardless of the material.
So, in a nutshell, for a wattage-regulated device like your Tesla 120w, you shouldn't really notice any difference in performance between the two wire types. Some people claim SS tastes "cleaner" and doesn't have that "metallic" taste they get from Kanthal. Other people say just the opposite, that Kanthal is the clean-tasting one, and that it's SS that tastes metallic to them. I guess you'll just have to try both, and judge for yourself.
Now, if we leave the realm of regulated wattage and start talking about variable-voltage devices, the differences become more apparent. SS has lower resistance than kanthal. So now we have two coils with identical dimensions, but with different resistances, the one with lower resistance (SS) will achieve higher wattage at the same volt settings. So on a VV device, you would need to turn the volts down on a SS coil to get the same vape as you would at higher volts on a Kanthal coil. With an unregulated or mechanical device, you're not even able to "turn down" the volts, so you will just get more watts out of the SS coil than you would from Kanthal, period.
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