Hi, I recently got a new Kanger Nano tank for my C-fiber battery for vaping. I started to realize that it would be a heck of a lot easier to rebuild my coils instead of replacing them. I watched plenty of videos and I am certain that I am building the coils right. But as soon as I put in the cotton, prime it up with some juice, screw on the tank and let it sit for 10 minutes, I instanlty get a burnt taste. Keep in mind that it is literally the first puff that I take as soon as I put in the new cotton. I checked the cotton and noticed that the cotton is completey black. The cotton looks as if I have been using the coil for 2 weeks. Oh, and also, I am using organic cotton from Japan. I need help! I'm new to rebuilding coils but I am a regular at vaping. Any answers and help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. -Adam
Help with coul rebuild
- Thread starter Hodges09
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Wicking is very tricky. There could be a couple things. First, you may be wicking too tight. When you pull the wick through the coils, you want it resist a little, but not a lot. Its a fine balance. Second, you may be using either too much wick, or too little wick. Both will produce awful hits. Lastly, you may be getting some sort of short causing the coil to get much hotter than it should and burning the cotton.
Do you have an ohm reader? What are your builds reading at?
Do you have an ohm reader? What are your builds reading at?
Honestly, I don't know where mine went. I know that it is important to have one so the cool balance is perfect but I'm just confused as to why the cotton gets fried instantly when I put it in and hit it once. I understand that the taste of my juice will not be there right away but you would think that at some point it would go away but it doesn't
Knowing what ohm your rebuilt coil is, in more ways than 1, is very important. It will insure your not firing an unsafe build, as well as help you trouble shoot a situation like you are experiencing now. The first reply couldn't have said it better about your cotton, and a possible short. Make sure your cotton is not hard to pull when inserted in your coil, but also has a bit of resistance. It's not to hard to pull, but not to easy. Get your cotton just right, your Vape will Be "TIGHT!!!" Lol
Are you building spaced coils or contact coils?
Are you pre-burning the coils if you are making contact coils?
Most contact coils start off having hot legs, which easily burn your cotton on the first couple draws. However, the insulators on the build deck for these RTA's are easily burned which can make pre-burning problematic. Building spaced coils will remove the hot leg issue completely. I personally use 6 wrap spaced 26 gauge on a 2.5mm mandrel. Don't worry about perfect spacing when you wrap it. Just "squish" it together on the mandrel after your wraps are complete and it will space itself.
Are you pre-burning the coils if you are making contact coils?
Most contact coils start off having hot legs, which easily burn your cotton on the first couple draws. However, the insulators on the build deck for these RTA's are easily burned which can make pre-burning problematic. Building spaced coils will remove the hot leg issue completely. I personally use 6 wrap spaced 26 gauge on a 2.5mm mandrel. Don't worry about perfect spacing when you wrap it. Just "squish" it together on the mandrel after your wraps are complete and it will space itself.
I am guessing that you're getting "hot legs" instead of a nice even coil heat-up. Not familiar with that tank, can you test it for hot legs before you put the cotton into it? I always test the coil with power before I wick, and 9 times out of 10, the legs are the first thing to heat up, so I run my mandrel through it a time or two and it starts heating up correctly, then I wick it.
Edited to say Tyberias beat me to it by about 5 seconds!
Edited to say Tyberias beat me to it by about 5 seconds!
#1. What ohm is your coil? You shouldn't be trying to make your own coils unless you have some way to test the resistance before firing it. Otherwise you could damage your atty, mod, or batteries if there is a short.
#2. Test fire the coild before wicking it. Make sure it's heating up from the center of the coil out, and that there are no hot spots, places where it heats up faster or hotter than the rest of the coil. You want nice, even heating starting at the middle of the coil and working out towards the end.
#3. For wicking:
A. First make sure your wicks are cut the same direction as the cotton fibers. If you cut across the fibers your wicks will be fragile and may break and they won't work very well as wicks.
B. Don't twist your wick into a tight rope, you want to leave the fibers loose so juice can work it's way between them. If the wick is all twisted up it won't work well. Only twist the end that you're going to poke through the coil and then cut that twisted part off when you trim the wick.
C. You want the wick to be a little snug in the coil, but not too much. The easy way to test is to put the atomizer on the mod, put your wick in the coil, and then gently tug on the wick left and right while NOT holding the mod. If it pulls the mod over it's too much wick. If there is no friction there is not enough. You want just enough that you can feel the friction of the cotton being tugged through the coil, but you want the cotton to still pull through the coil, not be so jammed up that you're just pulling the mod around.
#2. Test fire the coild before wicking it. Make sure it's heating up from the center of the coil out, and that there are no hot spots, places where it heats up faster or hotter than the rest of the coil. You want nice, even heating starting at the middle of the coil and working out towards the end.
#3. For wicking:
A. First make sure your wicks are cut the same direction as the cotton fibers. If you cut across the fibers your wicks will be fragile and may break and they won't work very well as wicks.
B. Don't twist your wick into a tight rope, you want to leave the fibers loose so juice can work it's way between them. If the wick is all twisted up it won't work well. Only twist the end that you're going to poke through the coil and then cut that twisted part off when you trim the wick.
C. You want the wick to be a little snug in the coil, but not too much. The easy way to test is to put the atomizer on the mod, put your wick in the coil, and then gently tug on the wick left and right while NOT holding the mod. If it pulls the mod over it's too much wick. If there is no friction there is not enough. You want just enough that you can feel the friction of the cotton being tugged through the coil, but you want the cotton to still pull through the coil, not be so jammed up that you're just pulling the mod around.
Just to verify - are you using the Kanger Subtank Nano and trying to rebuild the prebuilt coils (the OCC)?
Best Regards,
F2V
Best Regards,
F2V
1. You are not ready for rebuilding. You need ohm meter or a mod which can measure coil resistance.
2. Since you get burnt taste from the very first draw, I believe your wattage/voltage is too high for your coil. You have to start with lowest setting. If even lowest setting gives you burnt taste than your coil resistance is too low: see 1.
2. Since you get burnt taste from the very first draw, I believe your wattage/voltage is too high for your coil. You have to start with lowest setting. If even lowest setting gives you burnt taste than your coil resistance is too low: see 1.
As other users stated, before you do anything in terms of rebuilding, get an ohm reader. Or at the very least, a device that'll read ohms.
In all likelihood the resistance was too low, or you had a short, and it was causing an excess of voltage to your coil, thus burning your cotton. But we won't know unless you check your resistance!
In all likelihood the resistance was too low, or you had a short, and it was causing an excess of voltage to your coil, thus burning your cotton. But we won't know unless you check your resistance!
I do know all of that.. And nice joke haha.. Seriously thank you for all of the help guys, it means a lot! -Adam
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