l recently aquired a Steam turbine and I have yet to get it to work! 1 have built hundreds of coils on rda's and almost never have Problems. but every time I try to build on the steam turbine l get a hot leg. I try to pulse it slowly to oxidize it and after a Few pulse's it shorts and the Kanthal pops and breaks. Someone please help! I really want to have a tank to vape while working
Help with Ss mesh shorts
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Are you using a fresh battery to pulse? If so, you have to be very careful, especially with the first few taps on the button. I try to keep a partially discharged battery around for pulsing, at least to start with.
The title of your thread made me picture someone wearing a pair of shorts made of ss mesh. Whew, uncomfy!
I can't help you with your problem though. I only tried briefly to use ss mesh on an AGA type atomizer and quickly realized it was something I did not want to bother with. Good luck with getting the issue resolved though!
I can't help you with your problem though. I only tried briefly to use ss mesh on an AGA type atomizer and quickly realized it was something I did not want to bother with. Good luck with getting the issue resolved though!
Are you using the "Folded Edge" method of rolling the SS mesh? It's where one folds back about an 1/8" on the edge and that's what touches the coil. It's supposed to cut down on what is occurring with you. It prevents the frayed ends of mesh from rubbing against the coil. I have also found that by making the coil separate from the SS mesh then inserting the rolled mesh helps too.
Personally, I really prefer cotton wick to SS mesh. Lots of vapor and TH. Very easy to replace and dry burn the coil when changing flavors.
Personally, I really prefer cotton wick to SS mesh. Lots of vapor and TH. Very easy to replace and dry burn the coil when changing flavors.
Try using thicker wire - I prefer 28g for mesh. Also, you didn't specify but I assume you're using a mechanical mod to pulse not some VW gizmo, right? Use shorter pulses so it doesn't pop the coil. Move the hotspot around against the mesh using a probe while it's glowing and red hot rather than trying to adjust cold wire.
I'm with rouxdoo on this. Sounds like you're using thin wire, which makes things unnecessarily difficult. 30 awg at the least, preferably 28 awg. The thicker the wire, the less likely it is to pop on you, and the less it will bite into the wick. Distributed pressure, etc.
Coil tension is key. One main problem many face at first is how fastening the coil to the center post affects tension in the topmost wrap. Try to look closely and pay attention to how it affects things. Depending on which way you wrap the coil around the post, it will either loosen or tighten the wire around the wick. Try to compensate for this by either pulling or pushing a little on the wick. If it turns out too loose, you can make a little kink in the span between wick and post to make it wrap around the wick more. If it's pulling on the wick, loosen up the screw and try again. This will become second nature after a while.
Also try to torch the wire before wrapping it. This will make it "softer"; making it easier to wrap, and help prevent it moving around on its own when subjected to heat.
Coil tension is key. One main problem many face at first is how fastening the coil to the center post affects tension in the topmost wrap. Try to look closely and pay attention to how it affects things. Depending on which way you wrap the coil around the post, it will either loosen or tighten the wire around the wick. Try to compensate for this by either pulling or pushing a little on the wick. If it turns out too loose, you can make a little kink in the span between wick and post to make it wrap around the wick more. If it's pulling on the wick, loosen up the screw and try again. This will become second nature after a while.
Also try to torch the wire before wrapping it. This will make it "softer"; making it easier to wrap, and help prevent it moving around on its own when subjected to heat.
I bought that thing too and it has not been a good one. I'd try mesh covered with a hollow ekowool. It looks horrible but it is so easy.
I used a almost dead sony 30a
I have not tried the fold back method, i will give that a shot. As fot the cotton, i use cotton on all my builds. I hove tons of organic cotton balls and its super easy to work with. I was concerned that it wouldnt wick fast enough being that the juice is coming from below.
All i really use is 28g because i have a spool of it. Sorry i forgot to mention, im using a nemesis with a sony 30a.
Use thicker wire until you figure out how to build with ss mesh better. It'll mask the problems you're having now but at least the thicker wire will be more durable to pulsing. Also, if you're not pre-oxidizing then do that first. But don't get used to it because I always got much more performance and longevity when I didn't oxidize first. It just takes a softer touch to keep it from popping.
The main problem you're having is the mesh isn't oxidizing quickly. You're probably using too much mesh. You should be able to spin the wick easily by hand. Give it a tiny pulse then twist it. Do that over and over until you can get it to glow evenly. Don't be alarmed by the arcing you'll see on the wick, that's normal.
The main problem you're having is the mesh isn't oxidizing quickly. You're probably using too much mesh. You should be able to spin the wick easily by hand. Give it a tiny pulse then twist it. Do that over and over until you can get it to glow evenly. Don't be alarmed by the arcing you'll see on the wick, that's normal.
It's not quite so much about the wire thickness, I used to pop 28g all the time. Though it's definitely easier than 32g. You need to have the wire touching the mesh all the way around, but after both ends are tightened down it should still be super easy to move the wraps up or down, even cold. Basically no tension at all or as little as possible.
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