If you are worried about batteries exploding, you absolutely need a multimeter, and should check the voltage after each charge...even if the LT measures voltage like the Provari does. I believe the LT does have this, and has very safety feature of the Provari V2 with the exception of thermal monitoring. Be sure to get a good charger that is designed for whatever battery you use, and as said the AW batteries are very good and the AW 'reds' use a safer chemistry.
Help With Variable Volatge
- Thread starter BobbyDidge
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The one that crystalclearvaping sells has a 3.2 amp limit and should give you plenty of protection. He also has the Xl 3ohm Boge cartos that fit the dc tanks (that he sells) great cust service, great prices and free shipping (and free drip tips)
Bout as much as a one stop shop as you'll get
Yea, those guys ARE fantastic. I agree you should run at least a 3.0ohm single in that, and at that it may only hit 5.5. But that would def be on the V1 internals. The new ones may let a 3.0 push to six. But yea, CCV is the way to go!
As far as making noob mistakes, I guess I feel that the higher the amp limit is the more apt you are to make the mistakes because it is less protection to frying your carto's. But that would be about all you would do anyway as far as I know. The LT is pretty user friendly really. But the 3.2 amp one donnah mentioned would probably be a good call, yet still allow you with the right carto to use all volts. However, you may want to think about the 4 amp one so you would be able to run DC's a lote higher in those than the 3.2. But either call should be good. Good luck, and check out CCV. They are actually 15 minutes from me and are Awesome guys!
-CC-my avatar is Uranus
Two biggest things to remember with your bats is don't overcharge them. When they are charged, take them physically off the charger, and if you using a mod that uses stacked bats (bats in series) make sure that there is protection circuitry either in the mod, or the batteries, or both. Also, since I have a Buzz Pro that uses stacked bats, I make sure to mark them with a sharpie, and keep the pairs together. I wouldn't use one of them for something else for a while, then throw it back in the pair.
Above all, if you have questions about battery safety, ask the questions here or somewhere else, and someone will be happy to help you out.
Hi Bobby, here's my
Lava Tube (1st generation 2.5 amp limit) and other updated versions.
it can run a 1.5 ohm dual coil at 3.7 volts giving you 9.13 watts of power drawing 2.47 amps without triggering limit.
not many e-liquid can withstand this heat without losing flavor or tasting burnt especially when chain vaping.
Yea, that's a good point. I think the chain vaping is what ruins my flavor the majority of the time!
You guys have all been great thanks so much! I got the varitube X and am loving it! Havent noticed much flavor changes at different levels but definitely notice more TH etc. would have been even easier to quit analogs then it already was if i had this first. The ego still did a fantastic job of getting me to quit! Can't forget to give the credit to the ego
And that same 2.5 amp limit can get you a LOT more watts just by switching to a 3 ohm cartomizer/atty. It baffles me why the 2.5 amp limits is considered so um...limiting. I'm with Norn - I can't figure out what liquids people are vaping at such high wattage. Mind you, if you enjoy it more power to you, but I don't get it.
i totally agree with rick, dun understand why ppl are screaming for higher amp limits especially with dual coils
(a) running 2.4 ohm at 5.9 volts produces a whopping 14.5 watts (2.46 amps)
(b) running 2.5 ohm at 6 volts produces a whopping 14.4 watts (2.40 amps)
i personally wonder which e-liquid wouldn't be "over-cooked" on a 3 to 4 seconds puff
my bottom line is: 2.5 amp current draw is more than sufficient and safer.
my vmax can't even work "properly" with 1.5 ohm dual coils and 3 ohm atty (dripping)
even when set at 3 volts (overcooks) what a disappointment and waste of money.
vmax "failed" me with:
smoktech dcct (1.5 ohms), gotvapes stardust (2.5 ohms),
gotvapes bridgeless atty (1.8 ohms), lavatube 510 atty (3 ohms).
only satisfied me with vision stone v3 after i rewound the coil with double wicks and
boge 3 ohms single coil in a tank.
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When I build circuits, I like to de-rate most parts by 50%. Higher amp rating = more robust electronics as a general rule. Just say'n. IDK about the LT part ratings, but the amp limit may or may not be related to it. I just don't know.
Protection is a different issue IMO (But not totally unrelated).
It's true that even a 2.5 amp device is fine in most cases tho. So don't sweat it. But if you have two devices on the table in front of you, one 2.5 amp and one 4.0 amp, and you get to pick only one... take the 4 amp one IMO.
Of course, think. Use protected batteries, or if High-Drain are required try the IMR types. Panasonic and AW are well respected.
Protection is a different issue IMO (But not totally unrelated).
It's true that even a 2.5 amp device is fine in most cases tho. So don't sweat it. But if you have two devices on the table in front of you, one 2.5 amp and one 4.0 amp, and you get to pick only one... take the 4 amp one IMO.
Of course, think. Use protected batteries, or if High-Drain are required try the IMR types. Panasonic and AW are well respected.
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I will just make it simple to understand. Go with a vv box mod. It takes two 14500 batteries, so your'e not pushing that 18650 battery with a booster. The 14500 batteries are not stacked. Just good ol' true voltage. Use 2.0 ohm dual cartomizers. Set the box at 5.0- 5.6v and you'll get the thickest vapor, like smoke...
I got to say it.....Provari-Provari-Provari............. The high cost is in the build quality and features..........
I will just make it simple to understand. Go with a vv box mod. It takes two 14500 batteries, so your'e not pushing that 18650 battery with a booster. The 14500 batteries are not stacked. Just good ol' true voltage. Use 2.0 ohm dual cartomizers. Set the box at 5.0- 5.6v and you'll get the thickest vapor, like smoke...
hi jimmy,
just one question to clear up the confusion.
doesn't series = stacked, and stacked = series?
hi riverboat,
thinking of adding a provari to my collection as well.
just need one definite confirmation with the following scenario:
>>> provari set to 6 volts on a 3 ohms boge single coil in a tank <<<
when battery level = 4.2v, provari will measure 6 volts under load ?
when battery level = 4.1v, provari will measure 6 volts under load ?
when battery level = 4.0v, provari will measure 6 volts under load ?
when battery level = 3.9v, provari will measure 6 volts under load ?
when battery level = 3.8v, provari will measure 6 volts under load ?
when battery level = 3.7v, provari will measure 6 volts under load ?
when battery level = 3.6v, provari will measure 6 volts under load ?
when battery level = 3.5v, provari will measure 6 volts under load ?
when battery level = 3.4v, provari will measure 6 volts under load ?
when battery level = 3.3v, provari will measure 6 volts under load ?
when battery level = 3.2v, provari will measure 6 volts under load ?
when battery level = 3.1v, provari will measure 6 volts under load ?
when battery level = 3.0v, provari will measure 6 volts under load ?
since everyone claims the provari is the only ultimate device that truly holds it's output regardless of battery level,
really need to know if it truly is that superior before i take the plunge.
thanks in advance
hi jimmy,
just one question to clear up the confusion.
doesn't series = stacked, and stacked = series?
Yes....electronically.
Imaging the series set on the left... folding the top connector over in half and taking the battery with it...you'd end up with what's on the right. It's the same circuit, with batteries arranged for a box rather than a tube.
The other thing I'll mention is that even when using batteries in series... you need to pay attention to the amp draw and battery ratings. However, the amp draw is typically lower using stacked cells. There are reports of people getting protection cut-off of stacked cells due to over amping when using DCCs even tho it's not boosted voltage (usually when using smaller batteries with lower C ratings).
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Yes....electronically.
Imaging the series set on the left... folding the top connector over in half and taking the battery with it...you'd end up with what's on the right. It's the same circuit, with batteries arranged for a box rather than a tube.
The other thing I'll mention is that even when using batteries in series... you need to pay attention to the amp draw and battery ratings. However, the amp draw is typically lower using stacked cells. There are reports of people getting protection cut-off of stacked cells due to over amping when using DCCs even tho it's not boosted voltage (usually when using smaller batteries with lower C ratings).
thank you attypops, thanks for clearing up the confusion.
no wonder my stacked vmax's batteries runs cooler than my single battery mini lava tubes
for the sake of fair comparison, i'll not include my full sized LT.
stacked 18350 vs single 18350
is it correct to assume that the vmax is safer than the LT as current draw and temperature is lower ?
Now THAT is a bit of a different question.... I don't think I can really comment much on any mod's/APV's safety. Remember that a short is a short so it's max drain no matter what. Also the not-while-charging incidents so far have been with stacked batteries as far as I know. See ECF's guidelines and recommendations and keep up with them.
Also, different battery types (like IMR chemistry vs "standard" chem) behave differently when they overheat.
Your batteries shouldn't be running hot in the LT. What batteries did you say you were using?
Also, different battery types (like IMR chemistry vs "standard" chem) behave differently when they overheat.
Your batteries shouldn't be running hot in the LT. What batteries did you say you were using?
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OK so I should have also asked "What ohm atty/carto?" and "What voltage setting?"
Now I think the 18350 AW IMRs are rated at 6 amps...but don't quote me... do the research for your specific battery. The trick is that we don't know how much current the LT's booster circuit draws (well, I don't). We could compute min amps at the atty, but that's only part of the equation.
If the manufacturer has any specific recommendations, I'd follow those. DCC's would be one area I'd pay close attention to...and avoid if I thought the battery was warm. But that's me.
Also, when I said
Now I think the 18350 AW IMRs are rated at 6 amps...but don't quote me... do the research for your specific battery. The trick is that we don't know how much current the LT's booster circuit draws (well, I don't). We could compute min amps at the atty, but that's only part of the equation.
If the manufacturer has any specific recommendations, I'd follow those. DCC's would be one area I'd pay close attention to...and avoid if I thought the battery was warm. But that's me.
Also, when I said
in the quote above, I don't mean the battery's max rated drain. I mean a dead-short (zero resistance)... theoretically infinite desired amp draw from the circuit's perspective.
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