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The Hercules looks right at home on top of the EA mod... I don't usually use the 510 base, but in this case, I will make an exception... 
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sorry if I missed something but I do believe that the Hercules/Ithaca on a stealth top cap allows for a smaller configuration than on a GGTS native mode less 510 collector thing... am I wrong?
It's just about 10 mm shorter with the stealth cap vs collector tank/ CR on MKB
Here are some photos of what I mean. The spacer I have above the o-ring is very small, smaller than the gap for the juice control but I'm sure if I removed it it would almost close all the way. I cant screw in the housing anymore without taking pliers to this thing and I'm not concerned enough to do that but it does have me wondering. The pic of the juice control/mouthpiece on is as far as it will close...
EDIT: I did remove the spacer and it will allow me to close the juice control fully. I guess it's a trade off. Thanks for looking anyway
One possible solution that could work if you don't want to remove your custom spacer is to use a locking ring from a Terminator. One of my Terms is on the back-burner right now so I have some spare parts to play with. I've been using the Term locking ring from the Term rebuildable because I have had occasional issues with the Herc rebuildable part screwing/unscrewing when I adjust the juice control. Once it opened up basic feeding (which I don't use), and once it moved the positive wires under the washer causing a short so I use the Term locking ring/nut to lock that puppy down. I just thought it might help you make up that extra space to close your juice control and keep the spacer.....
I screw the ceramic housing in pretty tight on "Ithaka" type atomizers, I've had no problems with it unscrewing with the mouthpiece.
Hey buddy, that is a really good idea, I do have an exctra ring I could toss on there in the next build. Thanks for the heads up!
I received my Fasttech ithaka clone yesterday. The polish job is very nice but i still prefer the brushed finish on my herc. Threads are a little looser than the herc but still smooth. I didn't get to try it out because it was missing an o-ring between the base and the bottom tank section. For the price i can't complain and it will make a good back-up to the herc.
I found it ironic when I read a post showing there is a gap in the top tank cap section of the Ithaka.... http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...hanicals-chat-tips-pics-109.html#post10348888
Both of the RH Hercules' I've owned (still have one) are tighter than ....'s (short for Richard's..) hatband....
Both of the RH Hercules' I've owned (still have one) are tighter than ....'s (short for Richard's..) hatband....
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That's the first I've ever seen with someone saying juice came out that little gap. I have 2 ithakas with no issues at all.
The "Imeo" recommended fix is to replace the 16 x 1 mm o-ring with a 17 x 1 o-ring.
Mine has no "gap" there, a least extra noticeable, but leaked a tiny bit when iI first got it. I removed the o-ring and found a bunch of black crud caked up under where the o-ring sat, I cleaned it with a tooth brush and put the same o-ring back on and it has never leaked again.
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I need to pick up an o-ring for the base to bottom tank section (16x1 mm) but i'm not sure what type/material to buy. Is there a specific kind i should be looking for? Will probably go to Orchard and/or Loews since they are close to me.
Most O-rings are usually made of either Buna (Nitrile) rubber, or silicone....not much else (unless you get into exotic stuff like the type they use on spacecraft). For our purposes, you should be OK with anything you can get at your local hardware store.
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So for some reason, not sure why, I have not been able to align the 510 post from the first time I rebuilt my Hercules atty. I just recently put a 2x2 o-ring under the nut the post screws into in the bottom of the ceramic to see if it would maybe put equal pressure around the whole post so as not to have it coming at an angle and it worked for the most part but this shuts of the collecting base below the ceramic from what I have read in this thread. Has anyone come acrossed this problem and in turn a solution while keeping the recycle feature fully functioning? Please use the pictures below as a reference. If you need any more just say so.
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Mine had the same problem. Check to see if the nut inside the ceramic portion is installed properly - mine came with the nut upside down - the wide/flat section should be pointing DOWN, the slotted end should be pointing UP (toward the mouthpiece). After I installed it properly & snugged it down firmly (don't over-tighten or you will break the ceramic) ... lines up perfectly & stays in place.
Just something to check.....
I had this problem if I didn't make sure the hard plastic ring was centered (the one just above flanged part of the post has some wiggle room when the post is loose) when I tighten up the post into the nut. I'm not sure why this would matter but it seemed to help center the post on mine. I also cut down on how much NR wire I would wrap between the bottom o-ring and the flange. I only had this problem a few times and it seemed to help.
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Just a note, if you can get the size you want in silicone it will tend to impart less taste and odour from new, the black ones you get from your DIY store can reek of nasty chemicals or mould release. I soak them in rubbing alcohol for a while then douce them in the flavor doubler I intend to vape.You can get rid of the machine oil taste in the ss parts of the clones, but the o-rings still give bad tatse if not removed and individually defumigated
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