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I did check that and mine came installed the right way, is there a certain way that the wing on the flared out part of that nut should be facing?(towards the wick channels, away from them, etc.)
I did see that it was not properly centered but I disregarded thinking the same thing, why would it matter. But I will straighten that out when I'm back home to check that. And I have made sure the amount of wire I use above the o-ring is symmetrical so it doesnt put different pressure on the o-ring in different spots. Hopefully the hard plastic washer works. I got lucky I didnt break mine...against the wall. Thanks guys, if anybody else has a different believed causation I'd love to hear it. Thanks.
Generally, I set them up so the slots in the bottom of the ceramic are lined up with the two cutouts in the nut (you should be able to see the slots through the cutouts). The purpose of those slots is to allow the excess juice to pass through and get re-absorbed by the wicks so you don't get gurgling.
Good luck.
The repairable parts pictured are of GG parts but I just thought I'd show what I did on my two Hercules to center the positive pin.
I cut off a very short length from the tip of a pipette, then slit that piece, then took out a little more cause it still didn't fit and slid it on and assembled.
This method pretty much closes off the ability for liquid to drain from the bottom of the ceramic although I doubt if it can drain though there very well anyway. No problem with gurgling with mine.
BTW the pipette still works fine.
I cut off a very short length from the tip of a pipette, then slit that piece, then took out a little more cause it still didn't fit and slid it on and assembled.
This method pretty much closes off the ability for liquid to drain from the bottom of the ceramic although I doubt if it can drain though there very well anyway. No problem with gurgling with mine.
BTW the pipette still works fine.
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2x2 o-ring didn't solve my gurgling... on to a new method. When your gurgling occurs, do you notice it bubbling within the tank and also trace amounts coming from the air hole where the adjustable ring is on the exterior of the atty?
P.S. My shorting issues were nothing that I have read of on the internet. It was the voltage I was using that caused it, at least on the ready wires. I was at 4v and I dropped it to no more than 3v and it quit giving me the shortage error(on the provari) and it worked like a dream with 0.9ohm. Except I occasionaly got somewhat of a burnt hit.. ohms are too low maybe?
P.S. My shorting issues were nothing that I have read of on the internet. It was the voltage I was using that caused it, at least on the ready wires. I was at 4v and I dropped it to no more than 3v and it quit giving me the shortage error(on the provari) and it worked like a dream with 0.9ohm. Except I occasionaly got somewhat of a burnt hit.. ohms are too low maybe?
Just a heads-up... Stormy got in some new, longer ready wires for the Hercules.. 
Still $8.99 for 50.
Ready Wire for Coils- Longer Length
I've been getting by with the others, but the extra length will be nice...
Still $8.99 for 50.Ready Wire for Coils- Longer Length
I've been getting by with the others, but the extra length will be nice...
Just a heads-up... Stormy got in some new, longer ready wires for the Hercules..
Ready Wire for Coils- Longer Length
I've been getting by with the others, but the extra length will be nice...
Yes!!!!! I'm ordering some now. Lol
Well took it apart and went to build it again... Keeps tasting burnt any ideas just trying to gather information for tomorrow building day
I order a couple 50 packs in 2.8 ohms, I'll be using 2 for each coil for a total of 0.7 ohm with a "dual" coil setup (4 wires)Just a heads-up... Stormy got in some new, longer ready wires for the Hercules..
Ready Wire for Coils- Longer Length
I've been getting by with the others, but the extra length will be nice...
New arrival to my stable today... 23mm Astro by Kato.. I've been wanting this little guy for awhile, and a fellow forum member was kind enough to give me a great deal on it. It's so small, yet telescopes to hold an 18650 with a Kick if I want, and hits like a freight train. 
Looks great with the Hercules IMO, even though I have to use the 510 connector instead of the GGTS base. Here's a pic in 18500 mode compared to the DHX-TS (clone of the MKB-TS) in 18650 mode:
I've been wanting this little guy for awhile, and a fellow forum member was kind enough to give me a great deal on it. It's so small, yet telescopes to hold an 18650 with a Kick if I want, and hits like a freight train. Looks great with the Hercules IMO, even though I have to use the 510 connector instead of the GGTS base. Here's a pic in 18500 mode compared to the DHX-TS (clone of the MKB-TS) in 18650 mode:
New arrival to my stable today... 23mm Astro by Kato..
I appreciate this, it does look good on the Astro but I had heard that the threading was the same for the GGTS and the Astro so thought it would not have to use the 510 connector and was thus looking for one. I appreciate the info before I made a mistake. Might still get one as I like the Astro a lot but I would have been really disappointed when they didn't mate up as expected.
No, with the Astro's top cap (VERY sweet cap) removed, GG threaded attys will not thread directly in. I've owned many high-end mods over the years, (including 2 GGTS's) and the Astro is right up in that class IMO.. The Ithaka / Herc is also 23mm, and it looks like a hybrid with the Astro. I've been trying to get away from the 510 in favor of the GG connector myself, but the Astro has been calling me since I watched the first review awhile back..
You won't go wrong with it if you do decide to get one IMO.. 
..except, (once again), no ggts - and it's not like picking the proper threading would have taken more money or time.
not sure if this has been mentioned here, but i was getting the dreaded gurgle. i knew that there was a new nut that was sent out for the ithakas which was super small. i decided to cut off about 4mm of the ceramic nut with a dremel and it seems the gurgle is gone. ill have to report back after a few days to see if its totally gone, but so far so good. easy fix for something that was driving me bonkers.
I've entertained the idea that because the top of the ceramic is so full of wick/ coil that the liquid is actually trying to "hang" in the areas where the air passes by the coils, just a thought as the idea of s shorter/longer nut can effect it really doesn't make much sense to me.
Realistically that makes a lot of sense if the original nut is close enough to the saturated wick, the juice is blocking the air intake until you draw on it then it starts to gurgle as the juice is flopped about on top of the air intake.
Cutting the nut down in size means the air has room to clear the intake before hitting the wick.
anyone have any pics of this fix? I have an Ithaka on its way and want to be prepared. pretty sure I know what you guys are talking about but, a pic wouldn't hurt
thx for the pic! not 100% sure what I'm looking at but, when my Ithaka arrives it will be clearsorry for the elementary photoshop job, but heres a pic, the red line is approximately where i cut le nut.
nut cut:
thx again.- Status
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