Looks like Vochu returned from his holiday, and the kayfun conversion kit has been updated to work with Ithakalikes. Check the Polish forum for pics - he has it mounted in a Magoo.
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For fun, to try something new, to have a Kayfun-like device with a native GGTS connection, to not have to mess around with non-resistance wire, to compare the vape to other atomizers, to impress or annoy your friends, to make use of any spare Terminator/Odysseus/Hercules/Ithaka/Magoo/fasttech parts you might have lying around, to support modders and/or the Polish economy... and so on.
I think I prefer my Ithaka to my kayfun, it's got it beat flavor wise. something to be said for that ceramic! don't get me wrong I love my kayfun, it's easier to build but... I love the Ithaka flavor 
totally fed up with this thing.
i've rebuilt my hercules 4 times now. This last time i made extra sure I followed lmeo's instructions perfectly and watched all of his how to videos to be absolutely sure.
every time is the same. build the atty, put it all together, fill with juice, slowly screw last cap on, and the entire tank full starts dribbling out of the bottom air hole (the adjustable one, not the center post, although juice always floods out of that too, but just a little). i try to get everything cleared out of the air hole, and still, i get nothing but gurgle, barely get any actual vape hit at all. Finally eventually all the juice will drip out (hopefully i will catch it and put it back into the bottle rather than wasting my juice) and i will try vaping for about 15 minutes until I start getting a decent vape, but of course the tank is empty and i'm only getting vape from what is on the wick, so i refill the tank, and once again, it all leaks out the air hole.
the juice i am using is what i would call about average thickness.
the only possibility i can muster is that I am using cotton wicks and somehow this is an issue.
what a bummer.
i've rebuilt my hercules 4 times now. This last time i made extra sure I followed lmeo's instructions perfectly and watched all of his how to videos to be absolutely sure.
every time is the same. build the atty, put it all together, fill with juice, slowly screw last cap on, and the entire tank full starts dribbling out of the bottom air hole (the adjustable one, not the center post, although juice always floods out of that too, but just a little). i try to get everything cleared out of the air hole, and still, i get nothing but gurgle, barely get any actual vape hit at all. Finally eventually all the juice will drip out (hopefully i will catch it and put it back into the bottle rather than wasting my juice) and i will try vaping for about 15 minutes until I start getting a decent vape, but of course the tank is empty and i'm only getting vape from what is on the wick, so i refill the tank, and once again, it all leaks out the air hole.
the juice i am using is what i would call about average thickness.
the only possibility i can muster is that I am using cotton wicks and somehow this is an issue.
what a bummer.
well shoot, no sooner do i post that, than i figure out what the issue was...
he tells you to tighten the atomizer (the part that holds the ceramic) as tight as you can, but this pushes the little o-ring that is on the post so hard that it breaks the seal with the bottom hole in the tank. it either sticks out through the hole, or gets pulled away causing all the juice to flow right through.
The key for me was tightening it just enough to create a solid seal, and watching the oring agains the base to make sure it stayed flush and sealed.
now it works perfect!
he tells you to tighten the atomizer (the part that holds the ceramic) as tight as you can, but this pushes the little o-ring that is on the post so hard that it breaks the seal with the bottom hole in the tank. it either sticks out through the hole, or gets pulled away causing all the juice to flow right through.
The key for me was tightening it just enough to create a solid seal, and watching the oring agains the base to make sure it stayed flush and sealed.
now it works perfect!
A bit of juice on the center post o-ring really helps stop it from getting mongled as you tighten it down.
Imeo's English language skills a not the best so.....
Also the dura rating on the Hercules bottom o-ring is not the same as the one on a Ithaka, the Hercules o-ring is darn near as soft as a silicone o-ring
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I resolved that problem by using a VERY thin Stainless steel washer behind the o-ring. Since the washer goes between the wire & the o-ring, it distributes the pressure better, and also gives the positive wire a better grip and doesn't allow it to cut into or distort the o-ring.
I just fished mine out of a bag of assorted stainless hardware I have laying around, but if I'm not mistaken, I found them in an RC Model shop years ago. They are about 4-5 mm in diameter and the hole is perfectly sized for the positive post.
I also use them as spacers on my Gennys when using ceramic wicks to eliminate the long positive leg at the top screw. They come in very handy..
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I've been having leaking issues up the wazoo since I got this thing a couple months ago. Gurgling for days, with the idle juice flow ring being used, and not used. Tightening pieces to unfathomable torque specs (just kidding, just a bit more with pliers) and I even tried putting an O ring between the center post and the nut Like Mr. Bishopheals. After wasting tons of juice, I tried swapping the black plastic spacer lodged in between the center post and the metal piece that holds the ceramic cup from my terminator-c and removed the white plastic spacer thingamajig that came with the ithaka clone, and put the said black plastic spacer in place of the previous white plastic spacer. So far, 5 hours, and no annoying gurgling after every 4 or 5 hits. I guess that plastic spacer piece that came with my Ithaka was no bueno, and caused my unfortunate leaks. I also took that O ring back out of the ithaka clone that bishopheals recommends, because I may need it as a spare for future repairs.
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i've had my clone for about a month now and not had one leak, gurgle or any issue with mine. knock on wood! love the damn thing
Sorry if it has been covered, but what seems to be the most popular gauge of wire and wicking material for these devices?? I need to make an order.........Thanks!
Oh yeah.......If I decide to order pre-made wires, what is the correct length to get? 2" or 1.5"? Thanks
Oh yeah.......If I decide to order pre-made wires, what is the correct length to get? 2" or 1.5"? Thanks
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i found plain old 2mm silica works best because of the wick chanel size. if you try and sqeeze to much wick in the chanel it hinders wicking. atleast this has been my experience. wire, i use a single strand of 32g (NR-R-NR). single coil, quad wick works great for me.
If you decide to get the pre-made wires and you are working with the Ithaka specifically, go for the longer ready wires. The distance from the coil to the positive and negative posts is longer than with other attys that you need to use NR wire with. With other attys, like the Term-C or the Euforia, you can get by with the shorter ready wires. In a nutshell, you can always cut off excess NR wire, but it may be much more difficult to attach a few centimeters.
As far as the gauge of NR wire to use, get wire that is close to the gauge of Kanthal you will be using. I wound up with 30 gauge NR wire, since I mostly use 32 AWG or 30 AWG Resistance wire
If you are new to building attys, you really should try it first with the ready wire. The Ithaka is a complex atomizer, so why not take a short cut? I found that joining the NR to the Kanthal using the twisting method was not difficult, However, when I tried to build the Ithaka, the joined NR/R wire was too big to fit in the grooves on the side of the ceramic cup, especially with 2mm Ekowool or 3mm Silica wick.
OK, I'm not new to building coils, but I am new to Ithaka type atomizers with NR/R/NR set-ups. SO.....about 30awg Kanthal would be a safe bet? lol
Thanks, guys!
Thanks, guys!
I've ditched everything thinner than 30awg. I find 30 marginal, 29 and 28 are quite decent: no silly snap-crackle-pop - just crackle ;-)
If you are twisting your NR/R joins: try to use the same or next-nearest sizes, otherwise the thinner loves to just spin around the thicker. (Note: this can be resolved, but it's irritating)
If you are twisting your NR/R joins: try to use the same or next-nearest sizes, otherwise the thinner loves to just spin around the thicker. (Note: this can be resolved, but it's irritating)
I had one of my Oddy's performing considerably better than my Ithakas or it's clones by putting micro and cotton in the Oddy.
I have now brought my Hercules up to speed, 30 gauge @ 0.8 ohms on rolled cotton.
Of coarse I used nickel NR.
Someday I'll get them wraps more perfect
I have now brought my Hercules up to speed, 30 gauge @ 0.8 ohms on rolled cotton.
Of coarse I used nickel NR.
Someday I'll get them wraps more perfect
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