Here I am, teach me how to build please!

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KurtVD

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Best guess, is, a good chip varies voltage and amperage to reduce strain on itself, but always hitting the set wattage

Actually, I did a bit of observing by connecting my mods to the computer; there's a feature both in ArcticFox and eScribe that let's you observe in real time what's happening while you take a draw, and it records graphs for the values you want to see (like temp, watts, and others). The results were a little bit surprising, in that it only hit the set wattage (30W) for a very brief moment (like less than half a second) and for the rest of the draw it used maybe like half of that to maintain the temperature. This is with pretty thin wire (30Ga and 28Ga). That made me experiment a little, now I'm set at 20W and still get the same vape experience, except that it takes about 1 second to reach the set temperature, and before it was near instantly. (Most vapers probably prefer the shortest ramp up time possible, but for me it doesn't matter all that much)
So concerning about the strain on the battery, it seems that if you have TC activated, you have a lot less to worry about, since you're not drawing the set wattage as long you're firing, but only for a short amount of time.
 

KurtVD

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Still don't understand ohms law enough to tell you what any of these microprocessor controlled voltage regulators fo when a SS316L coil changes resistance as it heats.
Do you mean what the underlying principle is, how they determine when to reduce power and how much? As far as I know, while the resistance is heating up and the resistance is changing, the measured resistance is either compared to a formula or to a set of known values (like in a spreadsheet). Once it reaches the resistance that corresponds the desired temperature, each board probably has its own algorithm how it tries to maintain this temperature (or rather the resistance of the coil) as close as possible to this value, as long as you're firing. But one way or the other, it will be reducing the power until the coil starts cooling, and then it will add more power again until it's too much, and so on...
 
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HigherStateD

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Yeah, I lucked out and ended up with an AF capable mod too. Haven't delver too much into it yet, but I was actually talking about running a SS316L coil in wattage mode. Like, the regulator allows so much amperage to flow at the batteries nominal voltage, then steps up the voltage to the coil. I'm guessing different chips handle the change in resistance differently, as in, some, might not care at all, some better ones, might try to reduce strain on the regulator circuit, where as the best, might reduce strain on the battery as well. I really don't want to thread jack though.
 

bombastinator

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@bombastinator , I think you are over simplifying things. The skills required to wrap a coil can be easily learned with experience and practice over time, sure. But learning the math and science of Ohm's Law to vape safely can be more difficult to understand, but are critical just the same. We, or at least I do, see this all the time on the forum. Some folks just have a real difficult time understanding the relationship between a certain number of wraps and the resultant measurement of coil resistance. Understanding how "coil mass" affects ramp up time. Understanding what an "amp draw" is, or how to choose the right battery for the coil resistance used. How different wire gauges affect coil resistance. Etc, ect. That's the hard part.

Once the science concepts are learned and understood, then all that remains to be learned is the skills required to wrap a wire. That's the easy part.

If someone can't understand how Ohm's Law calculations work, then they probably should not be building coils.
Kkkkinda... also kinda not though. Ohms law allows you to build any coil with any wire on any atty, and is really important if you want to do anything complicated.
If you’ve got a pre Determined atty and a pre determined wire type and you’re using a VV mod with a meter in it, it’s possible to do it cooking recipie style and just make something that works for only that situation. It’s not flexible, and if anything changes you need a whole new recipie. It’s doable though. I didn’t know ohms law when I first started wrapping coils. I knew it existed, but I didn’t really understand it. Things were a bit simpler then though I guess. There was no such thing as Clapton or dL or anything like that. It was all round wire, it was all nichrome, it was all single coil, and it was all MTL.
 
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bombastinator

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We're talking about building, not premade drop-in coil heads that you screw into the atomizer. Is that what your question refers to?
No. I think I get it though. It sounds to me like You were touching a live wire with both tips of the tweezer and shorted out the center section of the coil. You effectively turned a single coil in two really tiny coils (which weren’t even curly at all but merely straight pieces of wire going to the posts) neither of which could handle anything near the load going between them and both of which popped, leaving a free center section to fly around. There were probably two melted stumps left in the screw posts. What got me was the the phrase “the coil” implying the entire thing, rather than merely almost the entire thing. My fault.
 
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r77r7r

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    Actually, when I got started I had no idea what resistance I was gonna get, and what would be desirable and so on, and to be honest, I still don't care all that much. I always use one of two types of wire, and do as many wraps as possible, so I always get about the same resistance (obviously...). Only simple coils since I use Temperature Control (apparently ít works best with simple single wire coils). Granted I wouldn't wanna have anything to do with a mechanical mod, but since I'm not planning to get into that, I'll let the microprocessor do the math.

    To the original question: Here's how I learned building: When I bought the wire, I also got a small pack of pre made coils that were a good fit for my mood. That way, I could practice installing and wicking the coil on a well made coil, before I started building my own coils. And once ready to start building , I could use the pre-made coils as templates
    Exactly how I would start out or recommend for anyone that asks. Finding what wick material I like and learning how to use it and finding the right tank is difficult enough.
     
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    vapdivrr

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    Yesss......I created a short when I touched the coil with metal tweezers and powered it up. Same reason why your coil shouldn't make contact with the deck or chamber, etc. You know how people say to make sure you clean out any metal burrs? They could cause a short as well if they work their way to the "wrong places".
    Just squeezing the coil with metal tweezers shouldn't short, it's when the tweezers also touch the posts at the same time.

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    Baditude

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    Just squeezing the coil with metal tweezers shouldn't short, it's when the tweezers also touch the posts at the same time.
    :blink: Somebody is either failing to communicate effectively or failing to understand. It could be me, but I think it is you.

    What I gathered was, while she was using metal tweezers to compress the coil, she accidentally pressed the fire button. This action could cause a hard short. The tweezers don't have to touch the posts, just touching the coil while it is firing with the metal tweezers is enough to cause a short.

    This is why ceramic tipped tweezers are recommended when working with a "live" coil.

    what-we-have-here-is-a-failure-to-communicate-quote-2.jpg
     
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    vapdivrr

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    I touched coil once by accident and nothing happened, so a few times I squeezed the coil while firing and nothing happened and thought perhaps if you only touched coil it was fine.i did this method but fir the most part do spaced. Maybe its because I only squeezed them but never squeezed them completely? I do know that I can fire and slightly squeeze coil and absolutely nothing happens. I never told anybody to do this however

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    bombastinator

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    I dont think it was the OP that did it, just another post , but either way, I do it all the time with metal tweezers, never shorts. I depress and squeeze at the same time. As long as your tweezers are only on the coil , at least my coils never short. I tend to do more spaced then contact, but I use to do this alot. Ceramic tweezers are definitely safer in case you slip and they dont get hot like metal ones...

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    It would require an absolutely new never been heated shiny silver coil to do it. Even a little carbon buildup on the coil would act as an insulator, and that happens in seconds. I suppose the black stuff could be scraped through of course. Serrated grippers on the tweezer ends maybe? You’d also need some pretty conductive tweezers. The tweezers would have to be lower resistance than the coil section being shorted.
     
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    vapdivrr

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    It would require an absolutely new never been heated shiny silver coil to do it. Even a little carbon buildup on the coil would act as an insulator, and that happens in seconds. I suppose the black stuff could be scraped through of course. Serrated grippers on the tweezer ends maybe? You’d also need some pretty conductive tweezers. The tweezers would have to be lower resistance than the coil section being shorted.
    So is squeezing a coil different then proding one? I now remember exactly what I was doing and it was in my genny days. You had to work out hotspots as the coil was glowing and was recommended to use like a toothpick, but once I said "would it really short of I proded with metal" so I did, I used a blunt tip needle and nothing happened. I use to do that alot back in the day. So now with coils, I straighten wraps with that same needle while I fire the button on occasion. So actually I dont fire and squeeze coils, my bad, couldnt actually remember, but have straighten individual wraps and nothing has ever happened. I now use 26g and dont need to mess with them, but I just thought because of those times, that it had something to do with only touching coil and nothing else...

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    vapdivrr

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    So what is the purpose of using ceramic tipped tweezers then if non-ceramic ones don't cause shorts?

    My assumption is ceramic tweezers are nonconductive, while metalic tweezers are.
    Perhaps its actually when squeezing. Maybe when each wrap touch each other there are multiple shorts and that creates a short short? I'm not versed to much about electricity and I definitely dont want people trying these things. My first posts was actually not correct, because I never squeezed micros while firing, my memory was of me straightening wraps or working out hotspots and I got confused. I do know that I have multiple times, back in the day , used a metal blunt tip needle to work out hotspots on genny tanks while firing with no issues and also have tried it on regular rta coils just to see. I have often heard that your not suppose to do this and now I have no need to, but curious to why nothing ever happened when I did it.

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    Zaryk

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    When you introduce metal tweezers (or any other metal object) to coils and fire them, it lowers the ohms to near 0 (hard short) and makes the mod put too much power to the coil. If you are just poking at the coil, you are probably not making a good connection between the metal object and the coil to lower the ohms to its failure point. If you press the object onto the coil and get a good enough connection, the coil will short and fail. This is why squeezing the coil with metal tweezeers shorts it out so well, it makes a solid connection to the coil and will introduce too much metal into the circuit.
     

    Horselady154

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    I guess what I don't understand is why, when a new person asks how to build a coil, that we don't either tell them how to do it safely, or point them to a video that does. Throwing things in there about how we got away with x or y, when we know it's not the safe way to do it... why would we do that to a new person? It's just going to scare them from even trying, or if they do, introduce risk where it doesn't need to be. I guess I don't get it.
     
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