HexOhm vs. Vaporshark rDNA 40

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Jbryant705

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Thinking about how I'm going to spend my Christmas bonus this year. So far my every-day mod is an IPV2. I'm thinking about getting something that is more solid/made in the USA. I'm torn between a HexOhm (v1 or v2) and a VaporShark (probably will wait for the rDNA 40 to come out).

Thoughts? I know these are pretty different devices by their target audience but I'm curious what you guys think.
 

VapinSweetZ

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+1 for the IPV2/IPV2S/Sigelei 50W/SXMini (and any other small-form SX350/SX330-based box).

PERSONALLY I think the DNA mods are overpriced (I don't want to start a fight, I know it's a beautiful chip designed by the genius USA company blah blah blah) but honestly you can get a nice small device with 50-70W for half the price.

I also own a HexOhm and I used it daily until I got the Sigelei box. Although a screen is not necessary to enjoy vaping, it's really nice to have. Also 10A limit becoming annoying when you have to build 0.6ohm or higher and have so many ways to fry the chip (overload, reverse polarity and such).
 
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ukeman

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Think about it... the DNA 40 gives you much of what the Hex gives you (okr t10 is 50w afaik), plus the whole new ball game; Temp Protection.
If you want kanthal builds up to 40w with sub ohms, or 1 to 2 ohms thinner kanthal coils and all the voltage you could possibly need for that type of coil, its in the DNA 40 (and the Hex but with less voltage).

I've got both types and imo Temp protection is the bomb... Simply for the fact that dry hits are a thing of the past.

Both types can do sub ohms to a degree, and LR coils with more voltage; the two types of vapes that are possible today.
But only the dna40 has temp protection... its a no brainer.
 

VapinSweetZ

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One reason I was considering a HexOhm is the dual batteries. How is the battery life on a VaporShark? I went from an MVP2 to an IPV2 and am a little annoyed about how often I have to charge this thing especially when I'm dripping at 35-45 watts

OKR-T10 (like the HexOhm) using series batteries, means its the same capacity and current but double the voltage, so it's probably the same battery life (more or less) as 1 battery.
 

ukeman

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I have the Vapor Flask dna40...

I don't really know what batt config they all have, or how it works, but for one thing, when you get away from low sub ohms, high watt/amp your batt consumption goes way down, even with higher voltages.

I can't help think that if you use the same atomizer setup on both a dual batt box, and a single, you're going to get more use time.
(unless the purpose is to add more voltage; but in i.e. a boost device with single batt, you're getting that anyway too.)

Another thing: with DNA40 you are using Ni200 (nickel) wire which is also known in GG use as "non resistance" wire, meaning you get super low resistances. You are vaping at .10 to .30 Ohms, but its nothing like using Kanthal or Nichrome wire.
It's more comparable to an LR 1 to 2 ohms coil.

fyi... there are other differences: Raptor 120w and OKR T10 dual batt boxes have a max of 6 volts while a DNA (with less wattaga capacity) can go up to 8 or 9 volts.
 

CharliesTheMan

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It really depends on your usage, I think you might have sent me the message on reddit but if not, PM me and I'll get with you on what I think fits best for your usage.

I have a hexohm V1, and it's a close tie between the HexOhm V2 and IPV3 I believe. I prefer my hexohm V1 over the sigelei 100 slightly as far as performance and vape quality and versatility with my usage. The DNA40 is completely different from the Sig and IPV though, and I'm a HUGE evolv and authentic DNA fan.

If you like building coils with large gauge wire, blowing huge clouds and building in general and have been using mechs and are familiar with battery care and safety, the HexOhm V2 might be for you. It's a beast and the punch and vape quality overall is amazing on the hex. If you're just getting into building or considering getting into it and use tanks and such, and just care to blow average clouds (for today, which would be bigger than big clouds a few months ago) if you're building, then you might want to look into the DNA 40.

The DNA 40 has the battery meter and temperature control, and really the Evolv authentic quality and technology is the only reason I'd say to choose one over a hexohm. If the screen is really the only difference and you're looking at some of the other non evolv chips, I'd go with the HexOhm V2.

The 510 connection on the V2 is amazing, so unless you get a really good deal on a cheap V1 or find one with the fat daddy vapes 510 connection, I'd stick with the V2 as far as difference between them. Also if you build really low ohm builds, the amp limit on the V2 is a reason to get it. But the vape quality is so good with a V1 and .35 to .5 ohm coil with the increase surface area, I don't think the increased amp limit is "needed" although it's nice to have.

PM me if I can be of any more help, it really comes down to the user and how they plan to use it, the DNA 40 and HexOhm are two of the best available mods in my opinion and preferences and needs determine what will suit you better.

One last thing, if being away from a charger for long periods of time is a feature you'd like to have, look into dual 18650 versions of the DNA 40, having a few days of battery life is nice, and an advantage of the hexohm over single 18650 battery mods, but an easy remedy.
 

Jbryant705

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I'm not really getting the Hex Ohm V2 price.

OKL2-T/20-W12 $12.90
Hammond 1590BBK $11.15
Fattdaddy 510 $ 5.99
SMAKN fire button $ 5.66
Battery holder $ 5.00

Are those parts easy to put together? Maybe I should consider building my own. I just know nothing about soldering or anything like that
 

ukeman

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Raptor chips are not expensive.
ok the word is that if it were easy, we'd all have them who could use them.
It takes skill to do it efficiently, and it takes a bunch of time.

I know I'm a clutz with anything tech, but even guys who know how to do it electronically can make a mess of it.
- and I don't think there's a kit for any of this; you're kind of on your own,
So I've paid a premium for "better" technicians to do it for me.

If you look at Mamu's thread here they go through a hell of a lot of figuring these things out.
There's parts lists, and diagrams etc etc.
 

ukeman

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It's 50w, and I have a Ranger on the way #313, Raff is one of the best putting out box mods.
50 watts allows you to do some sub ohms coils that 30w are not enough; that's about it.
Aside from that there are differences other than wattage.

The DNA 30 can go up to 8 volts, and if you are using thin wire (30g) LR resistances 1 to 2 ohms, you can vape with 6v and get one of the best vapes known to man. lol.

There's basically 2 kinds of vapes basically; your sub ohms with thicker wire, which draw a lot of wattage...
and your LR coils with thin wire but do best with higher voltage.
... its comparing apples to oranges.

Ranger 50w will give you 6v for an LR coil too. But say 2.++ coil, lots of wraps of 30g for surface area, and 7 + volts; DNA30 can do.


DNA 40 adds Temp protection; a whole new ball game.
 
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