Hi! Needing advice on Atlantis/Subtank!

[SaturnRings]

Hello ECF, I figured I'd come to you guys to learn what my next purchase should be!

I've been vaping on some small-time devices for awhile now, and I really want to move up to something that will give me a pretty large amount of vapor and flavor.

I've been doing some reading on the Atlantis, and I just went to a local B&M where one of the employees was kind enough to let me slap a drip tip on their Atlantis, and let me say - I was pretty blown away!

The Atlantis was housed on a tube mod - just a regular old metal tube with a battery inside. But the vapor was probably double or triple of what I get out of my tanks now, and the flavor was full-on. The nicest thing was though it was a low-ohm coil (0.5 I think?), I did not taste anything bad whatsoever... and I'm pretty sensitive to that stuff!

I wanted to ask, if I'm gonna drop the cash, what type of battery is best for the Atlantis? The employee recommended that the tube mods are fine (I guess they fire around 4.2V's or so, and that it's the ohm's that make the difference?) Are these really best for the Atlantis?

Reading around, I'm guessing that the 0.5ohm type coil really needs a powerful battery (are they supposed to be high-drain?) And what about box mods where you can adjust those settings? I've seen a lot of reviewers say that they enjoy the Atlantis on up in the 25 watt range. Are there any 25W range box mods that just aren't out of the ballpark in price (and not talking fasttech here...I've had iffy purchases with them)?

I guess the same advice really goes for the Subtank, which I'm eagerly waiting to try out too, if anyone in the local B&M's will let me.

I must say, the local B&M I was at also let me try an RDA with Fogboss's Johnny No Shoes (Spiked Morning Joe) and let me tell you, it was the absolute BEST coffee flavor I've ever tried in my life. So many coffee flavors have a burnt taste, and this one was sheer full-on creamy coffee with loads of flavor. There was a tobacco shop when I was a kid, in a local mall, that both sold tobacco and coffee, and this e-liquid brought back so many memories!

 

[Phild0]

I have 2 Atlantis tanks and I want to get 2 subtanks. I run them on a IPv2 and a Segelei 100 plus. I like being able to adjust how much vapor I get. I run the Atlantis at 12 watts in the Ipv2 most if the day. Then I crank it up at night and blow thru the juice!!!! At about 25-30 watts. It's really crazy how much vapor it puts out, but a couple YouTube guys say that the subtank has better flavor. Don't know if that's really true, but I am concerned about the wicking on the Atlantis after taking my first coil apart. YUK!!!!!! The subtank has organic cotton, I don't know what this crap is in the Atlantis, but it doesn't look good!!!

 

[Trailz]

I would definitely suggest a VW device for Atlantis. With a regulated device, the output stays constant with battery drain and ohm resistance changes. Get minimum 30W, I chose the IPV 2S which goes up to 70W should I need it in the future.

If you go this route, I suggest using either LG HE2 or Samsung 25R 18650 cells. If the device you choose has pass thru charging, you don't necessarily need an 18650 battery charger.

I vape the Atlantis between 25 &30W and it's a great vape.

 

[kCrox]

I just picked up an Atlantis and a ipv mini from eciggity. Atlantis was $35 and the ipv mini was $56 I think. The ipv mini goes up to 30w which is the recommended setting for the Atlantis, and can fire down to .5 ohm which is what the atlantis coils are. I will let you know how it is in a couple days!

 

[Trailz]

I had the IPV Mini for a couple days. Its en route back to elev8 because the 510 connector is crooked and my toppers didn't sit flush with the device. It fires the Atlantis just fine, I had it up to 30W. Hoping the replacement has a good 510 as its a nice 30W mod.

 

[kCrox]

I had the IPV Mini for a couple days. Its en route back to elev8 because the 510 connector is crooked and my toppers didn't sit flush with the device. It fires the Atlantis just fine, I had it up to 30W. Hoping the replacement has a good 510 as its a nice 30W mod.

Aww man I was so excited, now you got me second guessing... of course you don't tell me this till after I put in my order lol

 

[MrsMojoRisin]

Aww man I was so excited, now you got me second guessing... of course you don't tell me this till after I put in my order lol

I just bought he IPV mini for my husband for Christmas and it looked good out of the box. I also grabbed a Lemo for him to go with it but I currently have the Atlantis "Cloudlantis" and I plan on taking the IPV mini for a test drive while he is at work tomorrow. I'll let you know if it has any 510 issues.

 

[Sanddeath]

I love my atlantis, and while it's probably too much power, I like it on my Seigli 100w. But Apsire made a specific battery for the Atlantis, the CF SubOhm Battery. It's a regulated 4.2V battery that recharges. GrimmGreen said it tasted like vaping off a fresh mechmod every time.

 

[Trailz]

Aww man I was so excited, now you got me second guessing... of course you don't tell me this till after I put in my order lol

Continue to be excited, it's an intermittent thing. There are others who have the device from the same vendor and their 510s are fine. Hope the replacement arrives before Christmas

 

[SaturnRings]

So before I really do dive into this sub-ohm territory, does anyone have any words about specifically what type of battery I should use (if I have to buy the battery separate from the mod), and really what the pros and cons are of buying a simple tube mod versus a regulated box mod?

I'm thinking the IPVMini might be best for me, but I'm worried that the Aspire coils could drop to 0.4 and then it wouldn't run. Any suggestions?

 

[Trailz]

Go with a regulated mod and LG HE2 or Samsung 25R 18650 cells.

 

[Madcuzbad87]

Tube mods have no fail safes except for yourself. So with that being said you really new to know ohms law and a lot about battery safety. Regulated box mods require knowledge but they are given fail safes in an attempt to keep the user safe. Also most box mods come with a step up circuit that allows you to use the same exact amount of power until the battery is tapped. With tube mods (Mech mods) the amount of power drops as the battery drains, this isn't an issue with box mods. With a low amount of knowledge I'd say box mods are safest, mech mods are for those well versed in battery safety and know a lot about ohms law, and how current works.

Both types of devices are great. But batteries are the most important part of sub ohming. Usually the 30amp continuous discharge 18650's are pretty safe. Again they need to be purchased from a reputable vendor who only sells authentic batteries. There's lots of fakes out there that can be very dangerous.

 

[Madcuzbad87]

Also about the Subtank vs Atlantis, SuckMyMod did a VS video. I have the Atlantis and I rebuild my coils, and from I've seen from the subtank reviews, the airflow isn't good enough for me. With the Atlantis I can take deep, long lung hits and produce massive clouds at 30-40w on my Sigelei 100w plus and my ipv2s. My rebuild coils on my Atlantis use Organic Japenese Cotton sheets an they vape like champs. I still prefer my MutationXv2 but the Atlantis is great or when I'm driving or when I'm in class.

 

[SaturnRings]

I have to say I'm really excited for this purchase. Right now, I'm vaping an Aspire clearomizer with the BVC coils, and I haven't had much luck with them. Not a lot of vapor at all, and if I turn up the power a bit, it really starts to get hashy.

But when I tried the Atlantis, the vapor was really out of this world, and the flavor was strong. The taste was also very clean. I've really learned too that E-Liquid can be really bad. The Fogboss stuff was simply amazing, I've never had anything as good and clean burning. It's expensive, but worth it.

I'm thinking about buying the cheapest tube mod I can until some of these mini's hit the shelves. 0.5ohm coils, 18650 batteries, shouldn't be anything unsafe in the meantime. Should have it bought a few days after Christmas!

 

[caramel]

I can't get either the Atlantis or the Subtank to work properly with the factory coils. I always get either insufficient vapor or a harsh / burnt taste. I guess both Aspire and Kanger overlooked that in order to produce a larger quantity of vapor without burning the liquid, you need to increase the contact surface between the coil and the wick/liquid. So lets see:

Atlantis 0.5 Ohm coil: 1 coil of 6 turns
Subtank 0.5 Ohm coil: 1 coil of 4 turns
Subtank 1.2 Ohm coil: 1 coil of 5 turns

Totally insufficient, this is in the same ballpark as a Nautilus BVC except that one was supposed to be run at 7-8W not 25W.

At least the Subtank comes with the rebuildable head and you can make some larger dual coils with plenty of turns to improve on the contact surface. The Atlantis doesn't.

 

[the7illest]

I have it on my IPV3 right now around 20-35W, love it. I might toss it on my mech mod when I get home from work today and see how it hit's.

 

[MaDTiCk]

Ok the answer to your question is a vtc5, vtc4. Careful with vtc5 because there is a lot of fakes out there. But if is a tube mode you want, go with the vtc5, efest bateries are not bad ether.

 

[Syndicate707]

So I have 1 kanger subtank and 4 Atlantis'. So far I love the Atlantis. Still trying out the kinks in this new kanger subtank. First off. I've ran all my tanks on 4 different boxes. Sigelei 100w plus with 2 Samsung 25r batteries. Sigelei 150w with 2 Sony vtc4 batteries. Ipv mini on a vtc4 and a zero box mod on a Samsung 25r. I must say you can't go wrong with either batteries and their cheap. I'm running my kanger subtank on the 150watt on 35w right now and it's been great. The major difference on why I like the kanger more is that it gives you the option to go rebuidable or if your getting lazy then to just get a prebuilt coil. Flavor is better on the kanger cause I've ran both the same juice on both tanks on the same wattage. The aspire blows more clouds due to bigger air flow. Both tanks are great tho. You can get the Atlantis to fill 3ml while the kanger fills 6. Only issue I have with the kanger is sometimes if you don't tighten the premade coils your juice can seap out the air holes. But if I had to chose id go with the Atlantis. Chucks huge clouds and still great flavor. I'd ditch the idea of getting a 30watt tho. Tanks hit much harder on a 100watt then the 30. But that's just my .02 hope it helps

 

[Rebuke]

The subtank has been fantastic in rba mode, works great with 50/50 juice, works great with 100% vg juice(boba's bounty). Stoked with a 1.4 ohm coil and kgd at around 13 watts has just been money. I keep flipping between 1 and 2 holes open for airflow. Nice dense vapor, and quite a nice volume of vapor even at this power level and the flavor is great.

I could not get the atlantis to work worth a damn with 50/50 juice. It kept flooding and spitting and the vape was very hot with poor flavor, Air flow open, air flow closes, more power, less power, it was just not working properly.

With the boba's bounty a completely different animal. Wicking perfectly, flavor didn't get bad untill about 35watts, still washed out the flavor at wide open airflow. Between 25-30 watts on the 2nd most closed air hole its quite good. Flavor is good, just the smallest bit behind the subtank in rba mode.

Thats how they worked for me so far. I really need to break out the ooc coils for the subtank but its working so damn well in RBA i cant be bothered yet. Also a tighter drip tip on the atlantis brings it much more in line with the kind of draw I like. I've got a magma come'n so i can compare these guys to something besides each other.

 

[ShampooDance]

I'm thinking about buying the cheapest tube mod I can until some of these mini's hit the shelves. 0.5ohm coils, 18650 batteries, shouldn't be anything unsafe in the meantime. Should have it bought a few days after Christmas!

If you go the mechanical mod route, make sure and buy an intelligent charger for your batteries – you can get a Nitecore i2 on Amazon for about $15~ and it's great for this. A smart charger like this will make sure that your batteries don't become overcharged, which can be very dangerous. Also when buying batteries for a mechanical mod, make sure they're rated to handle the amount of amps your setup will be pulling from them.

Your required amp limit can be calculated using an ohm's law calculator like at ohslawcalculator dot com. Let's say that you put the Atlantis with a 0.5 ohm coil on the mech, and its battery has just been charged so it's putting out 4.2 volts. Plug both of those figures into the calculator, and it does the math to tell us that the mech will (in theory at least) be pushing 35~ watts and will be pulling 8.4 amps from the battery. If your battery is rated for, say, 10 amps, that's totally safe! But if your battery is only rated for 5 amps, that's potentially dangerous. Since a mechanical mod has no circuitry or protection of any kind, the battery inside will try and do whatever the physics of the circuit ask it to, regardless of whether it's been designed to handle that amount of work. You are the protection circuit on a mechanical mod, so as long as you're doing the math and know the limits of your equipment, you'll be fine.