High End REGULATED MODS !
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^Awesome work there Bill
Thanks, Q. Took a while to get use to Nickel builds.
My Ni200 is due in today. Will be starting that new adventure when I get home from work or shortly there after as soon as the mail arrives. Wish me luck.
You will do fine, Jax. Remember to keep the coil as close to the post as possible. It was discovered, the longer the coil leads the more the erratic the readings.
Excellent advice Bill. Thanks!
I had seen some people talking about issues with longer leads but never got the details. I plan on using only tanks on my DNA40 (at least for the time being) so that should somewhat help in having the shorter leads.
I'm just a little worried because I have only used 28g Kanthal in my tanks and 26g Kanthal in my drippers (just got s6ome 24g in for my drippers). I have no issues whatsoever building with those gauges in that material but have heard that it is better to use thinner wire (I have 30 and 32g on the way) with the nickel and also that it is more malleable compared to Kanthal. We'll see this afternoon I guess.
love the idea of the temperature control but I can't imagine wanting to go back to normal, regular wrapped coils
The build shown a couple of posts back was done in 28g Ni200. But I had a huge build deck to work with. I did a mesh build and it was awesome not having to prep the wick. I used 30g for the mesh build.
It does spoil you. You tend to forget that you can get dry hits when you return from heat control.
it's also the first step. Ideally, you'd have your normal build or whatever you like to use (COUGHtiger coilsCOUGH) and have the benefits of temperature control
it's still in its infancy. im sure it will be a progression
it's still in its infancy. im sure it will be a progression
I was just going to start a new thread asking about this but since you brought it up...
How difficult would it be to swap out the DNA30 with a DNA40 in a Vapor Flask? Is it just a matter of soldering the neg and pos leads? Would I have to do anything with the usb charging port? Is anything else involved?
depends how you want to do it jax
you could use the existing wires as is, desolder the wires to the board, then reconnect to the new board
or you could rewire the whole thing (buttons, fire switch, charge port)
soldering to a DNA chip is very easy. much easier than building an OKR/Raptor box
you could use the existing wires as is, desolder the wires to the board, then reconnect to the new board
or you could rewire the whole thing (buttons, fire switch, charge port)
soldering to a DNA chip is very easy. much easier than building an OKR/Raptor box
Ok, yeah, that's pretty much what I thought KurrptSenate. I would use the existing wires, desolder them from the DNA30 and then resolder them to the DNA40.
So, I wouldn't have to worry about the usb connection? Does that just go straight to the batteries?
Tho the L x W of both are identical their "H" isn't. The DNA40's Mosfet is slightly larger / taller and it's connectors are placed / spaced differently. Thus, in a tighter space (viz. DNA tube mods, especially if it's the WAE) substituting the 30 board with a 40 might be a pita. Ditto it'd be on VaporSharks. However, on larger box mods it should be quite plausible.
Nonetheless, for the value of effort and time I'd opine that disposing one's current DNA mod - and purchasing a completely new DNA40 device, adding a bit of change albeit, would be more cost effective, especially taking the to & fro shipping into consideration.
I'm pretty sure it's doable (30 > 40 change). if it's a vaporflask v1 (or hana), you could use the existing USB charge port as then are both .5A charge boards. you'd have to do the same thing with the wires (desolder from old board, resolder to new board)
if its a v2 they have replaceable batteries so that wouldn't be an issue
you could use the existing charger as, even if you got a n
I got a couple of the boards coming but will be sticking them in new builds of my own. I will be keeping my Hana V3 if I still use it, as a DNA30. I got rid of my DNA20 Hana and have missed it, I dunno about "regretted" but I have missed it.
I have a Freight Train Mods DNA40 ePipe coming and will be getting a Vapor Flask v2 with a 40 when I can. Other than that the Zero mods I find to be very attractive, but will have to wait until it is feasible.
I love the look of the WA, I do not like regulated small battery stuff, I dislike really long tube mods, I love the look of it, but do not think I would use it much. I will settle for being jealous of those that do have that beautiful mod
I have a Freight Train Mods DNA40 ePipe coming and will be getting a Vapor Flask v2 with a 40 when I can. Other than that the Zero mods I find to be very attractive, but will have to wait until it is feasible.
I love the look of the WA, I do not like regulated small battery stuff, I dislike really long tube mods, I love the look of it, but do not think I would use it much. I will settle for being jealous of those that do have that beautiful mod
Well, if the heights are different, then that may just be a problem. Then again, I believe VF is using the same exact mod with both boards so it might be doable.
I just hate the selling aspect of "disposing" of my current mod but that was my intention until thinking about swapping out the boards.
I would be swapping out the 30 for a 40 on my VF v2. I want a total of 3 VF DNA40s. I currently have a DNA30 and a DNA40. Getting ready to order another DNA40 as soon as they become available again. I figured, to reach my goal of 3 40s, I could just swap out the boards on my original v2.
I love the look of the WA, I do not like regulated small battery stuff, I dislike really long tube mods, I love the look of it, but do not think I would use it much. I will settle for being jealous of those that do have that beautiful mod
Funny you mention the WA. I brought my WAEII to work with me today.
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