Hit or miss with temperature control

[GrandSam]

I've been using temperature control devises for a little over 3 months now. Unfortunately, I've been having mixed results. I've used a VF and rDNA 40, building with both 28 and 30g wire.
Sometimes temp control will function as intended, others it will work for awhile, then burn the cotton, and sometimes it'll burn the cotton after only dripping 5 times. For instance, below is a picture of my most recent build. This was built this morning, and probably dripped on 30-40 times today.
Build stats:
rDNA 40
.17 coil, 28G Ni200
430 degrees, 14W

Things I've tried:
Strumming the coil
Spacing (wires don't touch)
Tightening down the screws

It usually seems to burn from the center, and eventually, out.

What am I doing wrong?

 

[Cullin Kin]

Hey GrandSam! Sorry you're having trouble buddy. I have only had TC since last Friday, but I've down about 5 builds and have had no trouble.

First, I don't dry burn my coil. Have you been doing that? Also, the combustion point of cotton is 410ºF if I'm not mistaken, so 430ºF will burn it eventually.

I've also read several times that Nickel builds love straight legs, so the curves in your legs might contribute.

You should look into a 2 post rda like the Magma, Hobo V3, Velocity, or Petri. It makes it much easier to build big Nickel coils and keep the legs straight.

Hopefully someone a bit more experienced with TC will come on by, but I'd thought I would throw in the little that I've learned since beginning and reading.

 

[GrandSam]

Hey GrandSam! Sorry you're having trouble buddy. I have only had TC since last Friday, but I've down about 5 builds and have had no trouble.

First, I don't dry burn my coil. Have you been doing that? Also, the combustion point of cotton is 410ºF if I'm not mistaken, so 430ºF will burn it eventually.

I've also read several times that Nickel builds love straight legs, so the curves in your legs might contribute.

You should look into a 2 post RDA like the Magma, Hobo V3, Velocity, or Petri. It makes it much easier to build big Nickel coils and keep the legs straight.

Hopefully someone a bit more experienced with TC will come on by, but I'd thought I would throw in the little that I've learned since beginning and reading.

Thanks Cullin! I'll look into the Hobo V3...although I'll have a tough time parting with the Aeolus. I've seen a few reviewers build with bent legs, but it couldn't hurt to retry with straight legs. I don't dry burn the coil. I'll switch out the cotton and drop the temp to 410.

 

[Nibiru2012]

I've been building TC coils for several months now and one thing I've learned is to use a larger ID coil diameter than what you're used to with kanthal.
Try a 3mm ID coil with about 10 wraps spaced evenly. Use an accurate wrapping device. The Universal Tools Coiler is an excellent device with mandrels ranging
2.0mm to 3.5mm giving nice tightly wound coils that are then easy to space on the mandrel itself.

You want your coil's resistance to be in the 0.08 to 0.12 resistance range.

I first used a Kangxin Vapor Flask V3 40watt MOD, no burnt coils ever; with either dry cotton or running the RTA dry.
Now I use an iPV4 and it hits much better with a warmer more flavorful vape compared to the Kangxin.

Now all of my coils are: 3.5mm ID 26ga. ni200 wire with an 7/8 or 6/7 coils wrap on a Kayfun V4 RTA. Ohm readings from .08 to .010 ohms and
chucking the vapor with a nice warm flavorful vape at 20-23 Joules power.

You should not be experiencing any burnt coils at all. But then again there's been issues with the rDNA 40 MOD unit i.e. the chipset itself.
IF it's a genuine rDNA 40 then check into sending it back because it definitely sound as if you have a defective unit.

 

[dr g]

Burning the cotton is usually caused by hot coils, which are often the result of unexpected shorts or coil deformation. What atty is that? Your leftmost coil seems close to touching something if there is a cap that goes inside the rim there.

You might also try larger diameter coils with a shorter overall width.

You should not be experiencing any burnt coils at all. But then again there's been issues with the rDNA 40 MOD unit i.e. the chipset itself.
IF it's a genuine rDNA 40 then check into sending it back because it definitely sound as if you have a defective unit.

This is false, do not do this.

 

[Nibiru2012]

Burning the cotton is usually caused by hot coils, which are often the result of unexpected shorts or coil deformation. What atty is that? Your leftmost coil seems close to touching something if there is a cap that goes inside the rim there.

You might also try larger diameter coils with a shorter overall width.



This is false, do not do this.

How is it false? A proper TC mod running at the temperature the OP stated should not be burning the cotton at all.

 

[dr g]

How is it false? A proper TC mod running at the temperature the OP stated should be burning the cotton at all.

It is false that genuine DNAs have any problem with TP. They are the most accurate TP devices on the market and there is zero history of issues with the TP function.

 

[Nibiru2012]

It's a stretch when you state that they're the "most accurate" when Pbusardo stated in his reviews of the TC MODs that
the Yihi chipset is more accurate and consistent compared to the Evolv DNA40 chips.
Remember they produced quite a few units that had screen glitches and such.

 

[dr g]

It's a stretch when you state that they're the "most accurate" when Pbusardo stated in his reviews of the TC MODs that
the Yihi chipset is more accurate and consistent compared to the Evolv DNA40 chips.

Busardo's video showed no such thing.

 

[Cullin Kin]

Thanks Cullin! I'll look into the Hobo V3...although I'll have a tough time parting with the Aeolus. I've seen a few reviewers build with bent legs, but it couldn't hurt to retry with straight legs. I don't dry burn the coil. I'll switch out the cotton and drop the temp to 410.

My pleasure! I know, it's tough to part with your favorite RDA, but once you see how easy it is to build a Nickel setup on a two post RDA you will be in love.

I also agree with Nibiru, try a larger mandrel. I usually wrap my Ni on a 3.5mm mandrel, 10 wraps with 28g. I did just do a 3mm mandrel for my Lemo though and that seems to be working great!

 

[Vooper]

It is false that genuine DNAs have any problem with TP. They are the most accurate TP devices on the market and there is zero history of issues with the TP function.

Other than the chip dropping out of temp control.

 

[GrandSam]

I've been building TC coils for several months now and one thing I've learned is to use a larger ID coil diameter than what you're used to with kanthal.
Try a 3mm ID coil with about 10 wraps spaced evenly. Use an accurate wrapping device. The Universal Tools Coiler is an excellent device with mandrels ranging
2.0mm to 3.5mm giving nice tightly wound coils that are then easy to space on the mandrel itself.

You want your coil's resistance to be in the 0.08 to 0.12 resistance range.

I first used a Kangxin Vapor Flask V3 40watt MOD, no burnt coils ever; with either dry cotton or running the RTA dry.
Now I use an iPV4 and it hits much better with a warmer more flavorful vape compared to the Kangxin.

Now all of my coils are: 3.5mm ID 26ga. ni200 wire with an 7/8 or 6/7 coils wrap on a Kayfun V4 RTA. Ohm readings from .08 to .010 ohms and
chucking the vapor with a nice warm flavorful vape at 20-23 Joules power.

You should not be experiencing any burnt coils at all. But then again there's been issues with the rDNA 40 MOD unit i.e. the chipset itself.
IF it's a genuine rDNA 40 then check into sending it back because it definitely sound as if you have a defective unit.

Thanks Nibiru, it's disappointing to hear that the genuine Evolv 40D boards are defective. I'll follow your suggestions before moving onto the next step and sending it in. The coil I have is actually using a 2.5mm tool. I'll try building my next coil lower, to .12 or so. Thanks again.

 

[Nibiru2012]

Thanks Nibiru, it's disappointing to hear that the genuine Evolv 40D boards are defective. I'll follow your suggestions before moving onto the next step and sending it in. The coil I have is actually using a 2.5mm tool. I'll try building my next coil lower, to .12 or so. Thanks again.

No problem!
That's what we're all here for is to help each other out with issues, recommendations, personal experience and such.

I want you know that I certainly hope that it is just a wonky coil rather than your rDNA40 MOD.

I know that personally for me, the nickel coil learning curve was a little bumpy at first. I was using 28 gauge and it was too difficult
for me to get nice firm coils since it's so soft. I stepped down to 26 gauge and it definitely makes a stiffer coil which makes it easier
to slip the cotton into without distorting the coil's shape.

One thing I have learned is that a larger ID coil regardless of whether one is using Kanthal wire or ni200 wire will produce a lot more vapor
with more flavor and wicks so much better.

 

[GrandSam]

Burning the cotton is usually caused by hot coils, which are often the result of unexpected shorts or coil deformation. What atty is that? Your leftmost coil seems close to touching something if there is a cap that goes inside the rim there.

You might also try larger diameter coils with a shorter overall width.



This is false, do not do this.

It's an Aeolus. It may look like the coil is close to touching the wall of the sleeve, but it's actually not. It is however, probably 1-2mm away from the inner portion of the top-cap. I'll give the ol' 3mm a shot next time.

My pleasure! I know, it's tough to part with your favorite RDA, but once you see how easy it is to build a Nickel setup on a two post RDA you will be in love.

I also agree with Nibiru, try a larger mandrel. I usually wrap my Ni on a 3.5mm mandrel, 10 wraps with 28g. I did just do a 3mm mandrel for my Lemo though and that seems to be working great!

Hobo it is. I'm going to give it a shot with 28g on a 3 or 3.5mm rod. Thanks!

No problem!
That's what we're all here for is to help each other out with issues, recommendations, personal experience and such.

I want you know that I certainly hope that it is just a wonky coil rather than your rDNA40 MOD.

I know that personally for me, the nickel coil learning curve was a little bumpy at first. I was using 28 gauge and it was too difficult
for me to get nice firm coils since it's so soft. I stepped down to 26 gauge and it definitely makes a stiffer coil which makes it easier
to slip the cotton into without distorting the coil's shape.

One thing I have learned is that a larger ID coil regardless of whether one is using Kanthal wire or ni200 wire will produce a lot more vapor
with more flavor and wicks so much better.

Awesome, thanks again! 26g does seem like a feasible choice for Ni200, so I may pick some up. I'll give the larger ID coil idea a shot. I used to build on a 3mm rod with Kanthal, but noticed that my attys got hot, fast. I'm using a DIY plastic spacer on my rDNA to avoid scratching the paint, since I heard that VS dropped the ball in that department...I could see the spacer melting at relatively high temperatures.

 

[Cullin Kin]

Hobo it is. I'm going to give it a shot with 28g on a 3 or 3.5mm rod. Thanks!

A friend on FB actually just recommended this new RDA to me and it looks super promising. It's called the 'STRO Mini RDA.' Two post, nice juice well, small chamber, and $30... Something to look into.

 

[KTMRider]

It's a stretch when you state that they're the "most accurate" when Pbusardo stated in his reviews of the TC MODs that
the Yihi chipset is more accurate and consistent compared to the Evolv DNA40 chips.
Remember they produced quite a few units that had screen glitches and such.

Pbusardo's video showed the only consistency on the Yihi was that it was consistently hotter than the DNA40.

The screen glitch was on about 5% of the DNA40's. None affected the function of the chip itself. I have 6 DNA40 mods and only one has a glitch. It happens very rarely and the screen resets after you release the fire button. It has absolutely no affect on the vape. AT ALL.

How about we stick to facts and stop spreading rumors and lies.

To the OP: What kind of juice is that? Looks like how my coils look on both my DNA40 mods and SX350j mods with very sweet candy/custard type juices.

Dry cotton will singe at 420°F. Wet cotton won't singe at that temp obviously. Pbusardo mentioned that there are too many variables for TP to be accurate (both Evolv and Yihi). It'll get you in the ballpark though and Evolv is usually closer than Yihi which is why he had to drop the SXM down to 380°F to stop the dry hits. I run my DNA40's at 420°F to 440°F with 28g, 7-8 wraps spaced, 3mm ID, rayon on a KF4. I have to drop to 380°F on my SX350j mods to get a similar vape (still a bit hotter though).

 

[KTMRider]

Other than the chip dropping out of temp control.

Faulty atomizers.

Do you post anything other than Evolv bashing posts?

 

[Vooper]

Faulty atomizers.

Do you post anything other than Evolv bashing posts?

Atomizers that have no issues on other chips.

And only in response to the Evolv fanboy brigade.

 

[DroopyDroors]

Pbusardo's video showed the only consistency on the Yihi was that it was consistently hotter than the DNA40.

The screen glitch was on about 5% of the DNA40's. None affected the function of the chip itself. I have 6 DNA40 mods and only one has a glitch. It happens very rarely and the screen resets after you release the fire button. It has absolutely no affect on the vape. AT ALL.

How about we stick to facts and stop spreading rumors and lies.

To the OP: What kind of juice is that? Looks like how my coils look on both my DNA40 mods and SX350j mods with very sweet candy/custard type juices.

Dry cotton will singe at 420°F. Wet cotton won't singe at that temp obviously. Pbusardo mentioned that there are too many variables for TP to be accurate (both Evolv and Yihi). It'll get you in the ballpark though and Evolv is usually closer than Yihi which is why he had to drop the SXM down to 380°F to stop the dry hits. I run my DNA40's at 420°F to 440°F with 28g, 7-8 wraps spaced, 3mm ID, rayon on a KF4. I have to drop to 380°F on my SX350j mods to get a similar vape (still a bit hotter though).

I personally think the DNA 40 blows compared to the SX 350j. For you to say it's the most accurate chip sounds like total fan boy status.

 

[dr g]

I personally think the DNA 40 blows compared to the SX 350j. For you to say it's the most accurate chip sounds like total fan boy status.

Your statement being demonstrably false is the more fanboyish statement. Anyone that has both boards can run them side by side and see which holds the temp limit better, the DNA is more accurate in that aspect. And due to design, it is more accurate in displayed temperature.

The DNA's temperature control has worked remarkably well since release, and never changed.