Hit or miss with temperature control

[KTMRider]

Atomizers that have no issues on other chips.

And only in response to the Evolv fanboy brigade.

What other chips? Nacho? Potato?

I own 6 DNA40's and 2 SX350j. How exactly am I an Evolv fanboy when I own both TP chips? Because I don't agree with your lies? Which do you have?

All I said was stop spreading rumors and lies and your response is calling me a fanboy.

I personally think the dna 40 blows compared to the SX 350j. For you to say it's the most accurate chip sounds like total fan boy status.

Says the Yihi fanboy...

 

[NathanielFT]

When I read the title I knew it was going to be a dna device, unfortunately you've tried everything i do to stabalize the resistance i.e. spacing the coils and tightening post screws, only other thing i could suggest would be to stick a screwdriver through the center of coil and pull it tight.

This is why I only use my SX350J mods for temp control, i know some have dna40s with little or no issues and will defend Evolv to the death - but if it's not a problem with the resistance its with the screen, or battery meter, always something ,the DNA40 is undeniably far to hit and miss = FAIL

 

[USMCotaku]

This is getting a bit silly.
P. Busardo posted a video on the evic vt.... In that video he used his new temp probe on it and posted results, and compared the results to the DNA40 and sx 350j.......BOTH of those chips were very accurate. Lets all play nice.

To the OP... It looks like your coil is tighter at the center with the coils getting larger towards the edge... Make sure your coils are uniform when you bump up to 3mm
Sent with one hand, the other is busy vaping.

 

[TheotherSteveS]

I love PB but why he persists in testing these TC devices with his confounded and beloved Kayfun beats me...

 

[Nibiru2012]

Faulty atomizers.

Do you post anything other than Evolv bashing posts?

99.99999% of the time I do.

 

[tehmidcap]

I love PB but why he persists in testing these TC devices with his confounded and beloved Kayfun beats me...

Why's it matter?

Some people like a tighter draw.

Also. I assume he owns an authentic. If I paid that much for an rta I wouldn't wanna shelve it after a few months of use would you?

 

[Vooper]

What other chips? Nacho? Potato?

I own 6 DNA40's and 2 SX350j. How exactly am I an Evolv fanboy when I own both TP chips? Because I don't agree with your lies? Which do you have?

All I said was stop spreading rumors and lies and your response is calling me a fanboy.


Says the Yihi fanboy...

My post was a reply to dr g, calm yourself and think of the poor blood vessels.

 

[tehmidcap]

I've never owned an authentic evlov chip Tc device.

All I can say is DONT buy the ehpro spd a5 for tc. It was my first Tc device and it's garbage (tc... the device itself is nice ish), I thought there was something wrong with me. Temp varied greatly from build to build and I generally had to use 350c to get a half decent vape.

Got my ipv4 a couple days ago and Tc has been working flawlessly from the very first build.

 

[GrandSam]

A friend on FB actually just recommended this new RDA to me and it looks super promising. It's called the 'STRO Mini RDA.' Two post, nice juice well, small chamber, and $30... Something to look into.

That actually looks similar to the Hobo. I suppose I could just go with the Hobo clone for $9, and invest in the STOM if I don't like it. Thanks for the suggestion!

To the OP: What kind of juice is that? Looks like how my coils look on both my DNA40 mods and SX350j mods with very sweet candy/custard type juices.

Dry cotton will singe at 420°F. Wet cotton won't singe at that temp obviously. Pbusardo mentioned that there are too many variables for TP to be accurate (both Evolv and Yihi). It'll get you in the ballpark though and Evolv is usually closer than Yihi which is why he had to drop the SXM down to 380°F to stop the dry hits. I run my DNA40's at 420°F to 440°F with 28g, 7-8 wraps spaced, 3mm ID, rayon on a KF4. I have to drop to 380°F on my SX350j mods to get a similar vape (still a bit hotter though).

It's actually a mix of 2 juices. My DIY Vanilla Custard (no EM added) and a fruit juice. I'll have to try it with a plain, unsweetened juice. Thanks.

When I read the title I knew it was going to be a DNA device, unfortunately you've tried everything i do to stabalize the resistance i.e. spacing the coils and tightening post screws, only other thing i could suggest would be to stick a screwdriver through the center of coil and pull it tight.

This is why I only use my SX350J mods for temp control, i know some have dna40s with little or no issues and will defend Evolv to the death - but if it's not a problem with the resistance its with the screen, or battery meter, always something ,the DNA40 is undeniably far to hit and miss = FAIL

I'll give that a shot, it couldn't hurt to try tightening it down a bit more. Thank you.

To the OP... It looks like your coil is tighter at the center with the coils getting larger towards the edge... Make sure your coils are uniform when you bump up to 3mm
Sent with one hand, the other is busy vaping.

It actually just looks like that in the image, for whatever reason. I'll double check on my next build though. Thank you (and thank you for your service)!

 

[erratum]

This is getting a bit silly.

Makes me want to toss the electronics & drip my juice on a hot rock.

 

[KTMRider]

Looking at your pic again and reading some of the helpful responses, it looks like you're not getting enough juice toward the center which is why it's burning in the middle. Try a 1/8" ID coil (3.1mm). More wicking should keep the center wet enough not to burn.

Did you take the wick out and wash it to see if it was actually burning or if it's juice residue?

I should clarify my coil has that burnt residue across the whole coil after about 5-7 tanks. The wick itself (rayon) isn't burnt.

 

[footbag]

I've been struggling with this as well, but think I have it figured out. For some reason, when I use a rebuilt coil in my Subtank or a stock Atlantis TC coil, the vape is consistent. No issues, great vape.

When I setup my RDA, the Mutation X v3, with the same coil (and settings)as the Subtank; I was burning cotton. I found that the temperature had to be dropped to 360F on the Mutation. I don't have to do this on the Subtank, I'm usually at 420F. I'm thinking that maybe the metals in the RDA's are causing erroneous reading. Whatever it is, dropping the temp didn't hurt the vape quality at all, and it did prevent the cotton from burning.

It was fairly easy to determine that it's an issue with the temp setting. My cotton was smoking. Cotton doesn't burn at that temp, so the device is reporting the temp too low. Drop the temp and it's fixed.

Good luck!

 

[dr g]

Looking at your pic again and reading some of the helpful responses, it looks like you're not getting enough juice toward the center which is why it's burning in the middle. Try a 1/8" ID coil (3.1mm). More wicking should keep the center wet enough not to burn.

Did you take the wick out and wash it to see if it was actually burning or if it's juice residue?

I should clarify my coil has that burnt residue across the whole coil after about 5-7 tanks. The wick itself (rayon) isn't burnt.

And the irony is this has nothing to do with the board.

 

[TheotherSteveS]

Why's it matter?

Some people like a tighter draw.

Also. I assume he owns an authentic. If I paid that much for an rta I wouldn't wanna shelve it after a few months of use would you?

It matters because the KF has some issues with variable and high static resistance, largely due to its complexity. Svoemestro produced a gold wire spring to help with conductivity. I think just to kludge through this problem..it works ok for some but it's just not the best device to test a TC mod with imho as it introduces a whole set of variables unnecessarily...I have nothing against the KF at all!!

 

[sonicbomb]

I've had a pretty mixed journey with TC. I dip in and give it a go, get mixed results, then go running home to kanthal. Rinse and repeat.
But tomorrow morning I'll get up nice and early, and build a nickel coil. And just about the time that I'm vaping it, hopefully, hopefully it won't disappoint. And if it does, guess what? I'll build it again. 'Cause I'm stupid. I don't give a damn about how much wire I use. That's my business. That's what I do.

 

[dr g]

But tomorrow morning I'll get up nice and early, and build a nickel coil. And just about the time that I'm vaping it, hopefully, hopefully it won't disappoint. And if it does, guess what? I'll build it again. 'Cause I'm stupid. I don't give a damn about how much wire I use. That's my business. That's what I do.

love it!

YOU CAN'T TALK ABOUT TC LIKE THAT!

 

[sonicbomb]

Joking aside. The only TC build I have actually enjoyed so far was in the Sub Tank Mini RBA. But it got tired quite quickly. It should be called EC (enjoyment control). Never-the-less, I will persist.

 

[dr g]

Raise the temperature ... usually fixes it

 

[KTMRider]

I've been using TP on my rDNA for about 8 months. I jumped right in and kept at it. I thought I was pretty good at making coils but Ni200 really points out your mistakes and/or imperfections. And your atomizer's. Once you have a good build and good wicking, TP is better than kanthal.

420°F is usually when cotton starts to singe and that was my starting point. I found that my wick (rayon) never goes completely dry and a wet wick's singe temp is higher so I went to 430°F and then 440°F and found a much more satisfying vape.

I can build a good coil now and know quickly if I did something wrong. Practice, practice, practice. One of the reasons I don't like atty lock is because you won't see the changes in resistance (like jumping around) that lets you know you or something is screwed up somewhere.

 

[zoiDman]

I've been using temperature control devises for a little over 3 months now. Unfortunately, I've been having mixed results. I've used a VF and rDNA 40, building with both 28 and 30g wire.

...

I'm not a TC Expert. And the Last thing I want to do is get in some Fanboy Debate about Circuit Boards or OEM's.

But here is a Question: Have you tried using Titanium Grade 1 instead of Ni200?

I had Bad Results with Ni200. But once I tried Titanium, things seemed to Work Fine. Just had to set the Temp Lower by about 100 Degrees F.

You might give Titanium Grade 1 wire a Try. And see if you have Better Results.