How do you "create neagtive pressure"?

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UncLeJunkLe

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Exactly why the Taifun GTIV is my top favorite rta, on top of its wonderful and luscious vape.

I have a Taifun GT3 clone I bought a long time ago but never used it lol. But it has JFC.

I have a few old UD Goliath V2 with JFC. But the one I use the most is the Kayfun 5 clones.

But now that I think about it, one tank I have that has no JFC but has never leaked on me that much to even mention is the Eleaf Lemo 2. IN fact th eonly time it has leaked on me is when I lay it on it's side for an extended period. That's a nice RTA once I figured out how to assemble it correctly so that the juice flows better to the wick (it has a long juice channel to travel), regardless of wicking technique.
 
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BillW50

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Should and Shouldn't seem to be Relative Terms. But Tanks do Leak sometimes. And Most of the Times they Don't.

Yes they can.

I'm Not sure why "Vacuum", in the context you used, would pay any role in Wicking? A Vacuum, or Negative Atmospheric Pressure, would be Exerting a Force on the e-Liquid in the Tank. Not really on a Bubble introduced at the Bottom of a Tank.

I haven't tried this, but I bet I know what will happen. Take a top fill tank without wicking and bottom airflow and pour juice into it. It is just going to run right out the bottom airflow. That is why wicking is important. It is a slightly leaky dam that should hold back an almost empty tank of juice, but no more. The vacuum holds back the rest of the juice left in the tank.

BTW - How Much Vacuum are we talking about?

Oh very tiny. A perfect vacuum could pull water as deep as 34 feet. And that is a 14.696 PSI difference at sea level. So an inch of e-liquid would be about 0.036 PSI difference. Yes barely anything, but enough to work.

BTW2 - The Straw/Water analogy is Actually a Pretty Good Analogy as to what is going on Inside a Tank/RTA. Not 100% Complete. But Not Bad on a Conceptional Level.

A Huge Difference, of course, is the Viscosity of the Fluids we Vape as compared to Water.

Yes well kinda. PG weighs slightly less than water and VG weighs about a quarter more than water. And that isn't viscosity, but just talking about weight alone.
 

Superuser187

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I think people already explained it very well even tho a 5year old or a 34 year old with basic english knowledge (me) wouldnt understand much hahahhaha :thumbs::thumbs::thumbs:

The vacuum that is created is what keeps the juice to not run freely into the coil....the example with the straw i think is one of the many simple ways and maybe the most simple way to explain it...

Soooooo the negative pressure (vacuum) does get created naturally when the tank section of the atomizer seals properly as already being explained.....soo the only part that air can get into the tank is the wicking ports thats why the bubbles we see while we vape cause we make the cotton dry and that way we make the vaccum be able draw air through the cotton fibers causing the bubbles that come out and at that point...but its mot only that...

The vaccum that gets created doesn't mean it will always be preserved after a long period of time....sooo it depends how good the seals are in the atomizer cause not all seal 100% and thats ok....in combination with the surface tension of the juice on the cotton and how much packed are the cotton fibers......plus the viscosity of the ejuice that gets affected by the atmospheric temperatures is all the variables that determine how fast the juice will flow to the coil....
But no need to overthink i guess since all we need to know is that there should he good sealage to create vacuum into the tank and then adjust our cotton to vape and blow clouds douche

The biggest proof in that there is negative pressure created that helps keep the juice run is if u try remove the seals on the top cap so it wont seal at all and then try vape and see what happens hahhaa

Seriously tho as a new into rtas my first rta had sealing problem on the topcap.....and even if i stuffed the cotton as hard as a rock! into the juice ports i still had flooding problems into the coil and there was no visible bubbles or even dry hits so at first i was mindblown and then i actually sit and try think how the dam thing works......once i fixed it and started sealing i immediately got dry hit and i will always remember that first dry hit i had and how happy i was about it lol...
 

ppeeble

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Magic. Some tanks have it and some don't....Once produced, all atomiser tanks are given a sprinkle of 'anti-leak' dust prior to being boxed. The magic dust is not always available in the quantities required and so the manufacturers will occasionally skimp on it. Some even substitute this anti-leak dust with dribble powder (because it looks similar) in the hope that a little dribble will be acceptable and, by-and-large, people have come to accept it.
The best tanks are those that have the magic built-in and do not rely on the coating of dust. Always look out for the symbol 'mGk' engraved in tiny script on the 510 threads and you should be ok.
 
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Superuser187

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I never used atty with juice control but to me seems such a prefect solution because the wicking gets affected by atmospheric temperature and also u can have more room to make mistake i guess when trying to get the perfect wicking to get the saturated vape we all like i guess

I am not sure why not all atomizers have j.f.c even tho i can think of some reasons even if they dont justify the cause of not making them....
 

mimöschen

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This is why I prefer Juice Flow control and I think it should have been made a standard a long time ago. It doesn't solve the problem 100%, but almost...if you use it right and always shut it down when not in use for a while. Getting the wicking "just right" becomes a thing of the past as long as the juice control mechanism is variable.
Although I like JFC RTAs and still have a few in rotation, top airflow and GTA-style decks work best for me, because a lot of JFC-RTAs have a tendency to seep liquid through the JFC-ring just by turning the RTA to open or close it.
And when it comes to wicking, GTA's and obviously top air atties are much more forgiving in any respect than standard or JFC atties.
 

zoiDman

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Magic. Some tanks have it and some don't....Once produced, all atomiser tanks are given a sprinkle of 'anti-leak' dust prior to being boxed. The magic dust is not always available in the quantities required and so the manufacturers will occasionally skimp on it. Some even substitute this anti-leak dust with dribble powder (because it looks similar) in the hope that a little dribble will be acceptable and, by-and-large, people have come to accept it.
The best tanks are those that have the magic built-in and do not rely on the coating of dust. Always look out for the symbol 'mGk' engraved in tiny script on the 510 threads and you should be ok.

I think You're on to something ppeeble.

I went to Fasttech to see if I could Buy any of that Magic Dust, but Unfortunately, they only Magic Styled Dust. So it probably isn't going to work all that great.

:(
 

tj99959

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    In other words, SUCK baby suck ..................
    and you have your negative pressure.
    It has also been suggested that you rotate your tank top to bottom to get the air where it belongs.

    I just know that when I pull the trigger, my atomizer just kinda spits 7 sputters, but when I suck on that baby the magic happens.

    Leaking is caused by the air flow .... not the liquid flow!
     
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    Z-Lee

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    In other words, SUCK baby suck ..................
    and you have your negative pressure.
    It has also been suggested that you rotate your tank top to bottom to get the air where it belongs.

    I just know that when I pull the trigger, my atomizer just kinda spits 7 sputters, but when I suck on that baby the magic happens.

    Leaking is caused by the air flow .... not the liquid flow!
    There are so many adult jokes in here, that I'm grinning ear to ear right now. I'll refrain, but thanks for posting this. :lol:
     
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    Z-Lee

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    magic-shia-labeouf.gif
     
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    BNEAT

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    What irritates me (irritating because I don't understand what's happening) is my tanks tend to not flow when they're completely full, and when they're close to empty they tend to flood. After a fresh build I fill ~half way and test hit for a while to confirm my wicking, then top-off.

    The only tanks I use these days are Kayfun 5/5² and Erlkönigins with max VG juice, but this really goes for any bottom air tanks I've used over the years. Now that I think about it, I remember this being an issue with Kanger Protanks I rebuilt back in the day.
     
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