How does a mech work?

[Scarey]

I've pretty much decided that my first mod will be mechanical. That being the case, I'm trying to learn as much about them as I can. I'd like to know exactly where the circuit is supposed to conduct. I need to know this info, as well as how to use a multimeter to check the mod for issues. I'm having no trouble understanding battery safety or the idea of how to build/check atomizers, but something isn't clicking with me on the function of the mod itself, and, from there, how to diagnose issues. I'd really like to have a firm grasp on this by the time a week passes, and I have enough money to actually buy a mech.

 

[mezzio]

A mechanical is a very simple circuit, battery goes to a switch, goes to the connector. No boards, no flashy lights or screens, just press the button and complete the circuit. Id say 99% of the time, if you have a problem, it'll be a battery problem or coil problem, mechanical mods are really just too simple to get screwed up.

Battery safety comes in to play because of the risk of a short circuit, whether it be from a bad battery or coil, using an overcharged battery, or sometimes allowing one to discharge too far. Using protected batteries reduces that risk. Some mods also have some sort of simple built in protection, and you can also buy fuses to throw in with the battery.




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[State O' Flux]

I've pretty much decided that my first mod will be mechanical. That being the case, I'm trying to learn as much about them as I can. I'd like to know exactly where the circuit is supposed to conduct. I need to know this info, as well as how to use a multimeter to check the mod for issues. I'm having no trouble understanding battery safety or the idea of how to build/check atomizers, but something isn't clicking with me on the function of the mod itself, and, from there, how to diagnose issues. I'd really like to have a firm grasp on this by the time a week passes, and I have enough money to actually buy a mech.

I'm an electrical dumbass, so I'll use EDA terms.

With a atty attached, you hit the button... and complete the circuit. Heat is produced when battery current is passed through the resistive coil wire. How much heat and how fast it heats up is a variable of current output and resistive coil wire size, path and type. The latter most is why vapists use a variety of wire sizes and coil "shapes"... for lack of a better term. Experimentation to find the perfect set-up.

Remove the atty, press the button and you have, basically, an "extension" of the battery... like any battery, but with nothing attached to it. It's a circuit without a load. If you put a DMM set at volts to the center 510 post and the mech body, you will get battery voltage... maybe a bit less depending on the conductive abilities of the casing and positive post.

With a DMM you can check -
Continuity - the ability to pass current.
Resistance - the resistance to the ability to pass current - in ohms.
Voltage - the batteries available output or state of charge.

 

[Scarey]

Hmmm, I may not be explaining clearly enough. Here goes: Positive battery end goes to mod center pin, mod center pin to atyy center pin, through coil, out through the threads as negative. What is connecting the switch/negative battery end/atty threads?

 

[mezzio]

Hmmm, I may not be explaining clearly enough. Here goes: Positive battery end goes to mod center pin, mod center pin to atyy center pin, through coil, out through the threads as negative. What is connecting the switch/negative battery end/atty threads?

Depends on the specific mod. On an technical electrical standpoint, it doesn't matter which end its connected to the switch. The switch simply "completes" the circuit by closing the gap between two "broken" points, which end it closes, whether positive or negative, really doesn't matter.




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[State O' Flux]

Depends on the specific mod. On an technical electrical standpoint, it doesn't matter which end its connected to the switch. The switch simply "completes" the circuit by closing the gap between two "broken" points, which end it closes, whether positive or negative, really doesn't matter.

Other than, much like British motorcycles of old, us Americans are not to excited to have things with positive grounds, or Whitworth fasteners.

 

[Scarey]

Depends on the specific mod. On an technical electrical standpoint, it doesn't matter which end its connected to the switch. The switch simply "completes" the circuit by closing the gap between two "broken" points, which end it closes, whether positive or negative, really doesn't matter.

Well then, let's get more specific. How about a bottom fire magnetic switch, like on the Magneto, the mech I'm gravitating toward purchasing.

 

[State O' Flux]

Well then, let's get more specific. How about a bottom fire magnetic switch, like on the Magneto, the mech I'm gravitating toward purchasing.

Last time for me Scarey... then you can go

The magnet is just a spring substitute... nothing special, other than a different "feel" to the button. Batt negative to the button end, so that when the circuit is completed, the entire outer casing is negative. Positive to the 510 pin end... so that when the button is pressed, the circuit is completed and the atty coil heat vaporizes the juice. Any mod is really a very small, pocketable "fog machine".

 

[Scarey]

Last time for me Scarey... then you can go

The magnet is just a spring substitute... nothing special, other than a different "feel" to the button. Batt negative to the button end, so that when the circuit is completed, the entire outer casing is negative. Positive to the 510 pin end... so that when the button is pressed, the circuit is completed and the atty coil heat vaporizes the juice. Any mod is really a very small, pocketable "fog machine".

So, would I be correct in thinking that the button connects the negative side of the battery to the tube, and thus to the threads of the atty? The only thing preventing the circuit from continuous firing is the void between the battery's positive and negative ends, in the tube, while the switch is not depressed. This is why a rupture in the cover on a battery can lead to a hard short? What if a non-conductive layer were added to the inside of the tube, so there would be no issue if a battery's sheath were to become damaged? You would probably have to sacrifice ease of battery length swapping, but I would think an extra layer of safety would be quite welcome. Any thoughts?

 

[State O' Flux]

You drug me back in... you bastidge you...

So, would I be correct in thinking that the button connects the negative side of the battery to the tube, and thus to the threads of the atty? The only thing preventing the circuit from continuous firing is the void between the battery's positive and negative ends, in the tube, while the switch is not depressed. This is why a rupture in the cover on a battery can lead to a hard short?

By George... I think she's got it! (Said with a British accent)

What if a non-conductive layer were added to the inside of the tube, so there would be no issue if a battery's sheath were to become damaged? You would probably have to sacrifice ease of battery length swapping, but I would think an extra layer of safety would be quite welcome. Any thoughts?

No mod insulation is required. It's the disposable, replaceable battery... not the mod.
One, this would be very rare, because it is assumed that the batteries owner would inspect them on occasion. Two, if you are uber-paranoid, you can add a second or even third battery cover with shrink tubing... assuming there's enough clearance to do so.

All my batteries, when new, get an extra layer of bright yellow, super tough, shrink tubing. Not because I'm paranoid, but because it takes up a bit of radial space and the batteries don't rattle. See, I'm not one to tighten the crap out of my tubular mechs, so having that extra added battery diameter (18.60mm) just makes them a bit snugger in the tube. I suppose the side benefit is that a damaged batt cover is highly unlikely'er.

 

[gokusnimbus]

it would be better w/o an inner lining since a mech can be disassembled and cleaned inside and out. a removable sleeve could work but unnecessary.

the 'void' you're speaking of is only at the switch end. the positive end always maintains contact. there is a nonconductive insulator in the top cap that holds the positive center post (usually adjustable on all mods). the current pass thru that, coil + post to - (ground) post and down the 510 connection threading, thru the body, then switch and then battery's -

 

[Scarey]

You drug me back in... you bastidge you...


By George... I think she's got it! (Said with a British accent)

No mod insulation is required. It's the disposable, replaceable battery... not the mod.
One, this would be very rare, because it is assumed that the batteries owner would inspect them on occasion. Two, if you are uber-paranoid, you can add a second or even third battery cover with shrink tubing... assuming there's enough clearance to do so.

All my batteries, when new, get an extra layer of bright yellow, super tough, shrink tubing. Not because I'm paranoid, but because it takes up a bit of radial space and the batteries don't rattle. See, I'm not one to tighten the crap out of my tubular mechs, so having that extra added battery diameter (18.60mm) just makes them a bit snugger in the tube. I suppose the side benefit is that a damaged batt cover is highly unlikely'er.

Well, actually, it's "he." I've just realized my profile seems to be gender neutral, so defaulting to feminine is technically correct, I suppose.

 

[Baditude]

Mechanical Mod Proper Usage Guide

Battery Basics for Mods: IMR or Protected Batteries?

Vape Safe Mod Fuse ------- Batteries : Vape Safe Mod Fuse 2

Advice & Tips for Beginning RBA Users

 

[State O' Flux]

Well, actually, it's "he." I've just realized my profile seems to be gender neutral, so defaulting to feminine is technically correct, I suppose.

I know you is a guy, Scarey me lad.

"By George... I think she's got it!" is a famous quote from the movie "My Fair Lady"... stated by Rex Harrison to Julie Andrews - and to me is gender neutral.

 

[Scarey]

Mechanical Mod Proper Usage Guide

Battery Basics for Mods: IMR or Protected Batteries?

Vape Safe Mod Fuse ------- Batteries : Vape Safe Mod Fuse 2

Advice & Tips for Beginning RBA Users

Those are great sites. I've got them all saved, but you can never repeat them too many times.

 

[Valhalla17]

Those are great sites. I've got them all saved, but you can never repeat them too many times.

Here's a couple more as pertains to choosing the right battery for your setup:
Ohm's Law Calculator
https://www.commonsenserc.com/page.php?page=c_ratings_explained.html

It may be covered in the links above but in case it isn't here you go.

 

[Scarey]

Here's a couple more as pertains to choosing the right battery for your setup:
Ohm's Law Calculator
https://www.commonsenserc.com/page.php?page=c_ratings_explained.html

It may be covered in the links above but in case it isn't here you go.

I fpound Ohm's law calculator pretty early on. I had not seen that C Rating info before. Thanks on that one

 

[ut1205]

I'm confused. Everyone seems to want a Mech but isn't that a step back from even an ego spinner. I have one juice that is great at 3.3 volts but bad at 3.7. What is the advantage? More battery capacity? More available watts? Isn't the only way to hit the "sweet spot" for different juices is to build a different ohm coil for each juice that 3.7 volts doesn't work. Educate me.

 

[Scarey]

I'm confused. Everyone seems to want a Mech but isn't that a step back from even an ego spinner. I have one juice that is great at 3.3 volts but bad at 3.7. What is the advantage? More battery capacity? More available watts? Isn't the only way to hit the "sweet spot" for different juices is to build a different ohm coil for each juice that 3.7 volts doesn't work. Educate me.

With a mech, you have fewer pieced to break, so you have greater durability. The batteries you use have very high limits on amperage, so you can play with your resistance on atomizers a lot more. Sure, you only have an average of 3.7v, but with an atomizer with .5 ohms of resistance you're pushing 7.4 amps and a whopping 27.38 watts... If you did that to an eGo, it would destroy a small village. That's just one resistance example. You can do crazy stuff like that, or play with dual and quad coils. With multi-coil setups, your overall resistance isn't that low, but most VV/VW mods won't fire them because the still jack up the amps. You can also drop a kick in a mech, and get the same function as a VW. Mechanicals are, overall, a more customizable experience.

 

[State O' Flux]

.5 ohms of resistance you're pushing 7.4 amps and a whopping 27.38 watts... If you did that to an eGo, it would destroy a small village.

I see potential sig line for someone here. ;-)