How far is too far (screwing in 510 in a Vamo V3)

[LeoRex]

I recently picked up a pyrex smok DCtank... I've used evods exclusively on my V3 since I got it, and after hearing so many people with center post issues, I'm scared to all hell of borking my center post o-ring by screwing down the cart too far. I know the vast majority of people that have had that happen to them seem to be using ego adapters (ironically to protect the threads)...I am running smok carts in my tank.. has anyone stomped that post with a cart?

But my main question is... how far is too far? Once the battery makes contact with the cart, how many turns is pushing it. If I tighten down the cart carefully, when I am done, there is a smallest bit of daylight between the cart's base and the neck of the threads... like width of human hair large... enough to see light through, but not much else.

I'd love to turn it down to that neck, so the neck takes the stress, rather than the 510 threads, but I don't want to pop that gasket and hose me. I have a 1300 spinner as my backup, so I wouldn't be SOL while I do the ol' o-ring repair.

What do you all think?

 

[donesmokin]

I don't go anything past snug. Any more and you're asking for trouble IMO.

 

[LeoRex]

Yeah... it's knowing when I hit that snug point...

Maybe I'll just leave it on my spinner, where it seats on the neck without much fuss.

 

[DirewolfUSMC]

Just screw it down until you start to feel resistance, then check your Ohm's with the right button....if you have close to the correct reading then you're snug enough. If you get a 9.9 reading, then snug it a 1/4 to maybe a 1/2 turn more and re-check. Repeat as necessary.

 

[retired1]

But my main question is... how far is too far? Once the battery makes contact with the cart, how many turns is pushing it. If I tighten down the cart carefully, when I am done, there is a smallest bit of daylight between the cart's base and the neck of the threads... like width of human hair large... enough to see light through, but not much else.

There are 510 to 510 adapters that you can get that help stabilize the tank and gives you the added piece of mind by protecting the battery post on the Vamo from leakage.

I don't go anything past snug. Any more and you're asking for trouble IMO.

Yup!

 

[v1k1ng1001]

A better idea might be to use a airflow controller in place of the adapter or fashion a spacer to the bottom of your protank.

As someone who borked his v2's threads with the protank, I'd say go lightly!!! The 510 and ego threads are especially soft.

Incidentally the protank mini seems to perform better than the protank on the vamo if you feel like using the ego threads.

 

[LeoRex]

Yeah... the mini is the way to go I guess.

And I bet you the smaller size helps reduce drainage issues... I have a theory that tank volume is why the Protank leaks more often than the eVod...

 

[retired1]

I have a PuriTank. Holds WAY more than a Protank. Other than a slight sheen on the battery contact every now and then, no serious leakage.

 

[LeoRex]

The puritan is still a 510.

I am a bit surprised that we don't have many ego threaded glass clearos. The wider base would not only give a more stable base, it would reduce the chance of damage due to side stresses... considering that these things tend to be heavy...

Granted, not every device has ego threads, but is slowly becoming the standard mounting type.

 

[TFL!]

This is what I have done. I got the Idea from another post on this fourm. It also works with the protank and fixes the air draw.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...-center-post-washer-vamo-510-ego-adaptor.html

 

[Kycap]

A better idea might be to use a airflow controller in place of the adapter or fashion a spacer to the bottom of your protank.

I bought an airflow controller and got distracted when i screwed it on - straight through the washer and down. managed to fix it by pushing a split o ring past the post and sorted it.

I was an early adopter, so my Vamo is 6 months old at least, spose i was due for the washer to go.

 

[toughguitar]

A tank airflow controller is the way to go. I don't have to worry about over tightening or if the threads strip.

 

[7sixtwo]

Issues like this are why every mod going forward should have a spring-loaded center pin; which negates the problem entirely. Afaik, among the current models; only the Tesla has this feature. It's so simple, I don't understand why spring-loaded center pins didn't become standard years go.

 

[LeoRex]

It's so simple, I don't understand why spring-loaded center pins didn't become standard years go.

Well.. people are STILL figuring out what works.. a lot of the devices on the market are as much prototypes as fully completed bits of kit. Just look at the glass BCC market. Wasn't long ago that it was the Protank.. and not much else. Now you have list of options that is growing each day... Hardly a week goes by that I don't check out my favorite sites and see an entirely new device listed.

If a feature turns out to work really well.... like the spring loaded center pin... it'll eventually work its way through and we'll see it on most everything.

 

[piggy]

Issues like this are why every mod going forward should have a spring-loaded center pin; which negates the problem entirely. Afaik, among the current models; only the Tesla has this feature. It's so simple, I don't understand why spring-loaded center pins didn't become standard years go.

Itaste SVD is spring loaded btw. Some people are reporting problems with juice leaking into the chip/batt. compartment on the spring loaders. I personally don't have that issue (yet) with my SVD.